NEW Aggression - Part 2

mbrossar · Jul 11, 2009

Interesting that Strat1117 had a similar question as I do, but I suspect we don't have the same problem.

I just had my first shave with a re-plated NEW (long comb). I too found my shave more aggressive than I expected, but I don't believe Strat1117 and I have the same issue. While I got an incredibly close shave, I also got a few nicks (which I haven't gotten in a long time). Prior to this experience, I've been using the new Müle R89 and an unre-plated NEW short comb. Between those two, I consistently got nick & irritation free shaves (with a feather), although I got closer with the Müle. I've heard that the short tooth and long tooth NEWs shave very similarly, so I was a bit concerned that the re-plated NEW would be a tad mild for my tastes. While I wouldn't classify it as too aggressive, I had to watch it much more than expected.

The short comb NEW head is off of a 'slim' variant. As far as I know, that just refers to the handle. Anyone know if the head's different too? I've been shaving all three heads on the same handle. I've heard some consider feathers a bit too sharp for the NEW. This aggressive shave was with a feather, but my shaves with the short comb were with a feather too. Attached are pics of the heads for comparison.

Thoughts? Anyone have similar experiences?

mbrossar · Jul 11, 2009

Here's the Müle for comparison.

mbrossar · Jul 11, 2009

I'd like to clarify a few things on this post. As mentioned, I don't believe this is an issue of workmanship on the re-plated head. I suspect if you look at the pics, you would agree. The re-plated head's teeth are straight and square. The plating is smooth and clean. My intent here was simply to ask people's impression on the short tooth v. long tooth comb, and if you've shaved with the R89 and the NEW, your thoughts on those. I had heard that many found the short and long tooth NEWs to shave very similarly, and I found the long comb to shave much more closely. It may just be a case of my mileage varying. I have also always heard that open comb razors are more aggressive than closed. This is the first razor that I have found this to be the case.

ShaveQueen said:
My Dear , that looks like a crappy razor for sure

ShaveQueen, I find your first post on this forum to be an interesting one. To which razor are you referring? I suspect you are referring to the short tooth NEW since it is certainly showing some wear. However, it is difficult to take seriously such a non-specific derisive comment. A little experience and I suspect you will also find that a little brassing does not impact a razor's ability to shave.

cooncatbob · Jul 11, 2009

My experience has been that certain razors prefer different blades, that's why many of us have 100s of blades and various brands.
Even seemly identical razors can shave slightly differently and prefer different blades.
Now I like Feathers so much I bought the carton of 250 from Pauldog.
But I only like them in adjustable razors where I can dial down and mild shavers like the Tech.
I find them too aggressive in my Aristocrats and opened combed razors.
For these razors I have a stock pile of IPs, Derby and Bic blades.
I usually experiment with a new razor until I find the blade which works.
Best.
Of course everybody's experience may vary, but I've found that the NEWs are particularly picky about which blades they prefer.
The long combed NEW head which I've been using for a long time really likes the Derby's and the IP's.
I shave my head so I don't like a too aggressive blade.

Luc · Jul 11, 2009

The aggressivity of a razor depends on the blade gap. A closed safety bar can be more aggressive... The gap between the blade and the bar will define the razor 'aggressivity'.

In the first picture, the blade has a larger gap than the second. So, #1 should be more aggressive as you described it.

As Bob pointed out, depending on which blade you feed your beast, it will change something. I personnaly like Astra and Feather in my razors. I do have a good rotation of different brands. When I put an Astra or Feather, I know I'm in for a good shave. YMMV, not everyone likes it like that.

If you are looking for something super aggressive, I would recommend the R89 old type open comb. That wasn't a puppy, it's a Werewolf!

mbrossar · Jul 11, 2009

Guys, thanks for your comments. It's the end of the day and I've had a near BBS face for most of it and I'm ending the day at nearly a DFS. That's a darn good razor in my book. I think I'll try to tame it a bit with a Derby tomorrow and refine my technique a little more.

Bushranger · Jul 12, 2009

Good read. I have found the exact same thing. Comparing Luc and Bob, I fit into Bob's camp of Derby, Red personnas (milder blades). I loathe astras, and Feathers are good (for me) in the right razor (safetybar rather than comb). I found Kai blades good in both.

spinyeel · Jul 12, 2009

Luc said:
The aggressivity of a razor depends on the blade gap. A closed safety bar can be more aggressive... The gap between the blade and the bar will define the razor 'aggressivity'.

In the first picture, the blade has a larger gap than the second. So, #1 should be more aggressive as you described it.

As Bob pointed out, depending on which blade you feed your beast, it will change something. I personnaly like Astra and Feather in my razors. I do have a good rotation of different brands. When I put an Astra or Feather, I know I'm in for a good shave. YMMV, not everyone likes it like that.

If you are looking for something super aggressive, I would recommend the R89 old type open comb. That wasn't a puppy, it's a Werewolf!

The old R89 turns a Merkur blade into a Feather. :lol: