Neewbie Needs HELP! Advice

[CryptoDave]

Ok here's the deal. I got my 2 straight razors today, both where definitely Ready Shave.

I had about 3 days growth, which for me isn't a whole lot, just a very small amount of stuble but enough to definitely warrant a shave.

I did my usual pre-shave routine:
1.I saturated my my face and neck several times with a hot towel.
2. I applied some Poraso pre-shave cream and let it soak in for about 2 minutes while I preparared my shaving cream.
3. I then lightly washed and mesaged the pre-shave into my face.
4. Applied my shaving cream.
5. Stroped the Razor about 5 times per side being very very careful. The guy I purchased the razor from said it was shave ready (and FWIW he is one of the best Honemeisters) and to only initially strop 5 times.
6. Began to shave starting with the easy part first, the side burns and side of the face.

I payed careful attention to keep the blade at a 45 degree angle or less to my face. Taking very light small strokes.

What I encountered was a tugging and pulling of my whiskers, not an even smooth glide and cut. As if the blade was getting caught on my whiskers. I kept at it and managed to clear some growth. But when I reapplied the shaving cream after the initial pass, and went at it again it was a lot smoother, no tugging and pulling.

I managed to get both sides of my face from the side burns all the way down the neck including the jaw line. When I tried to do my lips and chin, there was just no way that was going to happen. So I broke out my OC safety razor and shaved those areas.

What I can't figure out is why all the initial tugging and pulling, which didn't occur on the second pass after the stuble was cleared?

I really need some suggestions.

I will say that it all resulted in a very very close shave, but burns like hell.

Thanks,

Dave

 

[shaverjoe]

I consider myself a newbie as well- I only have about 100 shaves under my belt at this point- but a couple of things come to mind.

1. If you are getting a lot of tugging and pulling, it sounds as if the razor may have not been shave ready. I'm not sure who honed your razor. It may be a superb edge. But edge quality always comes into question when the razor is tugging and pulling.
2. The angle of execution. Try a more shallow angle next time. If your face is burning, maybe you did more scraping and less shaving. I would also recommend just going WTG for a while and see if this helps.
3. Inadequate skin stretching. Make sure you are stretching your skin well during the use of your straight.
4. Better beard prep and lather quality. Again- your beard prep and lather may be the best of anyone on this forum. I'm not questioning you at all. I will say however, poor beard prep and poor lather will lead to a sub-par shave-at least for me.
5. Beard growth- I read that your beard was just a bit of stubble after 3 days. Everyone's beard is different and your 3 day growth may be my one day growth. When I first started, trying to remove 3 days growth would have been a disaster- I need to shave every day. Not sure if this played a role or not.

My advice for your next shave would be-
1. Great beard prep and lather
2. Shallower angle of use
3. WTG pass only
4. Stretch your skin well

If after all this, you are still getting a lot of tugging and pulling, consider having your razor re-honed.

 

[shaverjoe]

Have you tested the HHT on your razor? I use this test before each shave. Everyone's will be different but it is one of many methods one can use to objectively evaluate an edge.

For a good explanation of the HHT, look here

http://www.coticule.be/hanging-hair-test.html

 

[CryptoDave]

@shaverjoe,

Thanks for the reply.

Im almost positive that the razor is shave ready, it was built and Honed by Howard Schecter, so I think it was more on my side.

From your post it sounds like I should be shaving every other day, not letting too much growth build up? I take it this will make things easier.

As far as my lather goes, do I want a thick creamy lather or a more wetter thinner lather?

Also, I know I have to try to keep the blade at 30 degrees, which at times can be difficult.

Thanks,

Dave

 

[AjaxLepinski]

Ooof! 30 degrees is going to scrape not shave. I think it's best to hold the blade as flat against your face as possible - about 5 degrees, 10 max.
I like thick lather while DE shaving but, with straights, a thinner, wetter lather is better. On my first shave, I used a yogurt-like lather and my hollow ground was sticking to my face - another member had that happen to him as well.
Good luck and have fun!

 

[JaxJim]

@shaverjoe,

Thanks for the reply.

Im almost positive that the razor is shave ready, it was built and Honed by Howard Schecter, so I think it was more on my side.

From your post it sounds like I should be shaving every other day, not letting too much growth build up? I take it this will make things easier.

As far as my lather goes, do I want a thick creamy lather or a more wetter thinner lather?

Also, I know I have to try to keep the blade at 30 degrees, which at times can be difficult.

Thanks,

Dave

30 degrees seems pretty steep to me to take on three days of growth. Keep in mind that beard reduction is what you're shooting for with each pass. For that first pass, a much shallower angle should result in far less tugging and skin irritation. IIRC, Larry of WhippedDog.com recommends essentially laying the razor flat on your face, then increase the angle just until you're cutting whiskers cleanly. Regarding your lather, I think most straight shavers prefer a wetter or looser lather than safety razor shavers, but I think most all would agree that the lather needs to have enough body to be slick and to cushion.

Good luck on your shaves. Just keep practicing; you'll see improvement.

 

[Wid]

Oh boy, 45% would definitely hurt. At that angle all you are doing is scraping your face. As has already been posted, start out flat to your face and increase the angle till you hear a "scraping toast" sound. It's there where you want to keep the angle.

 

[CryptoDave]

@JaxJim

I will try that technique.

Should I wait for my usual 3 day growth or do you recommend shaving more frequently so as to make it easier?

Dave

 

[ladykate]

If you are getting tugging after a lot of prep then the odds say that the razor is too dull. However, a 45 degree angle is too steep. You should have figured out the correct angle after messing with your shave for a while so I'm a bit worried about the tugging issue. You can try a much nicer angle and see if that helps. Also, waiting until you have a lot of growth to try a straight is not the way to do it at all. If you are new to straight shaving, try using the straight after you have done a pass with the DE. It takes a while to get them to work for you.

Try shaving a little (say your cheeks only) each day instead of waiting for full crop to appear.

Shaving a full beard is for the 'spurts - wait until you have lots of experience and you'll probably like shaving a fuller growth. Just don't try it right out of the bag.

 

[JaxJim]

@JaxJim

I will try that technique.

Should I wait for my usual 3 day growth or do you recommend shaving more frequently so as to make it easier?

Dave

You might want to give your face and neck a break for a day or two, some healing time. Then give it another go. In the meantime, you can practice making lather to get the consistency you want. Enjoy!

 

[CharlieFoxtrot]

I think less growth is better to learn with. I would do the first pass with a DE for simple reduction and finish with a DE clean up. Eventually the DE appears less and less.

 

[shaverjoe]

As many of the guys are posting here, yes, you need a more shallow angle. At 30-45 degrees, you would be scraping your face, not shaving it. That is likely why you had the burning sensation after the shave.

I also like a thinner lather. Maybe a better way of stating it is a "wetter" lather. Hydration is certainly your friend, plus with a wetter lather, the lather will clean from your razor with ease. If you notice the lather is sticking to the razor, particularly near the edge, while trying to rinse your razor, your lather is likely too dry/thick. JMO.

Regarding your beard- I cant say. Everyone's beard is different. If you only needed to shave every three days with your DE then that is fine. I just know at the beginning, it was easier to shave everyday with the straight. If I had 48 hours growth, I used my DE because my beard was too heavy. My technique is now better so I can remove three days growth easily- though that is rare because I like using my straights so much.

Again, I am new as well. The one thing I can say with confidence- though the learning curve is steep, it is worth the climb.

 

[MikeA]

I'm only a week into straight shaves but 45 degrees sounds painful. 30 max and starting out not knowing how your razor works only life spine off your face one or two widths and do more passes. Think of it as cutting down tall grass you need to get a bit off at a time. Also as was mentioned above very wet lather, I now just give a slight shake of brush before lathering. Keep it up and you'll get the hang of it

 

[CryptoDave]

Thanks guys you all helped a lot.

From your postst I am almost positive that:

1. My lather was way way too dry and or thick. After each 1-2 strokes when I went to rinse off the lather it wouldn't move off the blade, just stayed there as build up.

2. My angle was all wrong. Not flat enough. I'm going to try the trick mentioned above of laying the blade flat against my face then slowly increase the angle just until it starts to cut.

3. I definitely like the idea of not waiting for too much stuble growth.

Dave

 

[wherndon]

I'm fairly new too, and I don't know about the rest of the peeps, but when I use a pre-shave oil, I do not rinse it off. I let it soak in while working up my lather, then apply the lather right over it. I figure the more lube I have, the better.
regards,
Bil

 

[AjaxLepinski]

Forgot to mention,that a 30 degree angle may not be kind to your edge. You may need a touch up with CrOx on balsa or something similar.

 

[Doc226]

Excellent advice so far.

I would add to start with a WTG DE pass and then a WTG pass with the straight. This will allow you to get the holds and angles right while not having to remove that much hair.

My ideal lather is wet but just enough so as it not run off the blade, it should rinse easily without any gunk.

 

[tomjr]

lather being wet enough, shallow angle, and edge quality is all u need to cut beard comfortably. quality of shave comes from experience and details like skin stretching etc. Stay with cheeks only 4 awhile and stropping is more than u are doing (check it out) . razor should be almost flat on the face.