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Mühle Mondays

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Mühle Monday, April 1, 2024

Pre-Shave: Kiehl's Age Defender Exfoliating Cleanser / YBN Glycerin
Razor: Mühle Rocca R95
Blade: Wizamet Super Iridium (2...and done)
Brush: Mühle Purist Silvertip Badger Ebonite
Bowl: DSC scuttle
Soap: PAA - Coconut & Oud (Sample)
Alum: none
A/S: Murphy & McNeil - Magh Tured Aftershave Balm
EdP: Creed - Royal Oud Millesime

Great shave today with the Mühle protagonists. The Rocca shave perfectly while the Purist Silvertip badger lathered up a storm. Fantastic start into the week and into April with a BBS result. That doesn't happen very often for me.
 

Mike M

...but this one IS cracked.
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366 shaves in 2024
Shave#92 of 366 remaining 274(100%)
Muhle Monday
MdC Monday

Razor:
Muhle R41
Blade: Personna 74(61)
Brush: Muhle Kosmo STF
Soap: MdC Original
A/S: Davidoff Cool Water
Post Shave: Nivea Hyaluron Gel

Ok it's Muhle/MdC Monday (and Easter Monday and April Fools day) but the big news, at least for me is that I have set a new record for the number of shaves with a single blade. The R41 is still delivering great shaves with the P74 blade, I think this is the longest run of consecutive uses of the R41 I've had since I got it. It was never my favourite razor but I have definitely grown to respect it for its run with this blade. From now every shave with the P74 is a new record for me so I'll just see how much further I can get.
 
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Mühle Monday, March 8, 2024

Pre-Shave: Kiehl's Age Defender Exfoliating Cleanser
Razor: Mühle R89 Destroyer
Blade: Wizamet Super Iridium (3) binned
Brush: Arno Classic #12, Gen5 synthetic
Bowl: DSC scuttle
Soap: House of Mammoth - Almond Leather (sample) / YBN Glycerin
Alum: none
A/S: TOBS - Royal Forest
EdP: Byredo - Rose of No Man's Land

I almost forgot about Mühle Monday.

I did a few changes today since I've been getting razor burn with every shave recently, no matter which blade is loaded or whether I use the R89 or the Rocca. I added the Glycerin to the soap today, to make a slicker lather; worked like a charm. I only did two WTG passes with longer strokes and less pressure. I also added witch hazel post-shave to the routine. Still got the 'burn', but at least it subsided a few hours later. This is very puzzling to me, but there's some indication that technique might be an issue here.

In terms of hard- or software there hasn't been much change in the line-up. This brush is rather new, but then again I get the burn even with my badger (1 year old) and my Mühle Black Fibre (>5 years old). Soaps are often samples which I have been using without problems for months and aftershaves the same. I decided to stock up on unscented witch hazel, aloe vera gel and Speick shaving cream. I'll also will run an exclusion experiment with the software (i.e. using it without actually shaving) to see if I can pinpoint whether I've been having issues with any of the soaps. But this does seem like a technique issue to me.
 
Monday's quick Mühle shave -

Razor: R89 (with limited edition Maggard handle)
Lather: Cremo
Aftershave: Afta

Recently I have been revisiting razors I haven't used for a while, and today I used the venerable R89. It's quite mild with a relatively narrow effective angle, but with my improved technique it provided me a decent quality shave without any irritation.

The R89 shaves similarly to the Pearl Blaze, which I really like. I think the Blaze is a slight step up in efficiency as it seems to have a slightly wider effective angle than the R89. With good technique, though, the R89 works quite well indeed.
 
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Mühle Monday - 8 Apr 2024

What a fantastic way to start the work week!

Hardware 🪒
 Razor — Mühle Rocca R96
 Blade — GWS Indian (1)
 Brush — Yaqi Black Marble
 Bowl — Pearl Plastic

Software 🧴
 Soap — Trigodon Wild Seas
 Aftershave — Anherb After Shave Conditioner

Process 💈
 Hair — 3 day stubble
 Prep — Warm shower
 Lather — Bowl lathering
 Passes — 2 (WTG, XTG, buffing)
 Postshave — Cold water rinse, after-shave

Notes ✏️
The second shave with the Rocca, maintaining the same setup as the first. Another glorious nick-free shave.

The Rocca sang along and even after the first (WTG) pass I was able to get my cheeks extremely smooth. I continue to be impressed by the Rocca while confirming the first shave wasn't just a fluke! The Rocca is one smooth operator! Result = DFS 😎

Peace x3 🙏
 

Mike M

...but this one IS cracked.
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366 shaves in 2024
Shave#99 of 366 remaining 267(100%)
Muhle Monday
MdC Monday

Razor:
Muhle R41
Blade: Personna 74(68)
Brush: Muhle Rocca R94 STF
Soap: MdC Original
A/S: CK be
Post Shave: Nivea Hyaluron Gel

Tonight I decided for Muhle/MdC Monday to use the Rocca R94 brush to lather up. There has not been much of a chance to change up the gear as I am still using the P74 and the best razor to pair it with is the R41. I still can't get over how many shaves I have gotten from this blade, I was expecting a good number due to its legendary status, but I never expected anything like this. Today's shave was very smooth, even on the jawline.
 
@m949 take a few days off (shaving) and restart again without shaving in the XTG direction. And don't overdo it. I would try those tips ;-)
This is great advice. I usually shave every second day with the weekends off. I get three shaves per week (Monday, Wednesday, and Friday). I will have to shave tomorrow so I won't look too scraggy in the office, but I'll heed your advice and will take a few days off shaving until next Monday.

I did conduct an experiment though today. I lathered B&M Spice with my Mühle Liscio Black Fibre brush and applied the lather to my face by hand. I removed the lather by hand (no shaving), rinsed and reapplied a second time by hand, rinsed again. No other products have been used. I got a slight reaction, just a bit of tension but not the burning feeling for hours that I have been getting. I think that may have to do with the pH level of the soap or possibly there is still some minor razor burn and the soap slightly aggravates it.

Tomorrow, I'll be shaving with the Rocca and use Speick shaving cream followed by Thayer's Unscented Witch Hazel and an application of Aloe Vera. Speick should be easily tolerated and Thayer's plus Aloe Vera should calm down any potential razor burn.
 
Date15.04.2024
366 daily shaves
106/366

RazorBladeBrush
Gillette Rocket HD500Silver Star (1)Mühle Rocca ST
PreshaveSoapPostshave
Cold splash
KCG Face Wash
Mike’s Natural Soaps Barbershop (88)
Cold splash
Proraso Green
Balm

PassesWTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality
(details here)
Blade Sharpness
10/10 (Clean)4.5/10 (Sharpish)
EffectivenessShave Comfort
8/10
(DFS+)
10/10 (GlideFest)

Notes:

Summary. Comforting and easy shave this morning as we kick off another week. Enjoy everyone!

For extended shave notes click here.

Enjoy your shave!
 
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Mühle Monday, April 15, 2024

Pre-Shave: Cold Water splash
Razor: Mühle Rocca R95
Blade: Gillette Silver Blue (1)
Brush: Mühle Purist Silvertip Badger Ebonite
Bowl: DSC scuttle
Soap: PAA- Coconut & Oud (sample)
Alum: none
A/S: Murphy & McNeil - Magh Tured
Aftercare: Thayers Witch Hazel Unscented
EdP: Tom Ford - Oud Wood

I made a 5 day break from shaving and restarted today with a 2 pass WTG and the Rocca. I really took it easy today, but I still got the "burn".

On the positive side: CCS with two passes (both WTG) on 5 days of stubble, and I'm much clearer on the growing patterns of my beard.

I have two more moves up my sleeves to see whether I can identify the issues I've been having: using Aloe Vera Gel as shaving lather instead of soap or cream as well as no use of Aftershave and going back to cartridge shaving. I really don't want to have to revisit a cart system after putting so much effort in this hobby, but this may be a necessary step if I can't improve on the reaction I've been getting with every shave.
 
but I still got the "burn".
  • Do a single-pass shave without much buffing and see if that helps.
  • Do you stretch your skin with your fingers? If so, you can try skip that and shave stretching the skin just using your neck/jaw muscles.
  • Rinse with ice cold water from the fridge followed by an alcohol-free aftershave conditioner.
  • I found the Rocca works with a fairly wide range of angles. Perhaps you can try play the angles.
  • If you do short strokes, try slightly longer strokes with adequately adjusted pressure (usually less pressure). With shorter stroke one tends to re-shave areas that are free of lather more often.
I still get some burn but only if I overdo the buffing phase or go for an extra pass chasing glassy/marbly finish in almost all directions. These are just some of the things that helped me reduce the burn significantly. I am still a newbie myself to be giving anyone advise but I wanted to share what helped me in hope that it might be of use.

I hope you find a way to freeze the fire 🧊🌊🔥 and beat the burn soon!

Peace x3 🙏
 

Mike M

...but this one IS cracked.
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366 shaves in 2024
Shave#106 of 366 remaining 260(100%)
Muhle Monday
MdC Monday

Razor:
Muhle Rocca R94
Blade: GSB (2)
Brush: Muhle Rocca R94 STF
Soap: MdC Original
A/S: Davidoff Cool Water
Post Shave: Nivea Hyaluron Gel

Tonight after such a very long time without using my Rocca set I decided to take this first chance with a new blade to finally use it again. It felt soooooo good, the larger gap of the Rocca compared to last nights R89 was efficient enough to leave me with a BBS. The soap, razor and blade just came together to produce a superior shave tonight.
 
  • Do a single-pass shave without much buffing and see if that helps.
  • Do you stretch your skin with your fingers? If so, you can try skip that and shave stretching the skin just using your neck/jaw muscles.
  • Rinse with ice cold water from the fridge followed by an alcohol-free aftershave conditioner.
  • I found the Rocca works with a fairly wide range of angles. Perhaps you can try play the angles.
  • If you do short strokes, try slightly longer strokes with adequately adjusted pressure (usually less pressure). With shorter stroke one tends to re-shave areas that are free of lather more often.
I still get some burn but only if I overdo the buffing phase or go for an extra pass chasing glassy/marbly finish in almost all directions. These are just some of the things that helped me reduce the burn significantly. I am still a newbie myself to be giving anyone advise but I wanted to share what helped me in hope that it might be of use.

I hope you find a way to freeze the fire 🧊🌊🔥 and beat the burn soon!

Peace x3 🙏
I'd like to thank you and @bartje-p for your advice and encouragement. I think I have the issue figured out, more on that later.

I have two razors, the Rocca and a Mühle R89. The R89 was my entry razor into DE shaving and I still use it regularly because I feel that it'd be a waste to banish it from rotation. I usually do two passes WTG & ATG with buffing with both razors, but have reverted to two passes WTG only. I'll probably will reduce it to a one pass WTG, as per your advice.

I stretched my skin at the very beginning but after a while didn't feel the need as I could get quite good shaves without the contortions. I only do light adjustments with the facial and neck muscles as needed. I'm sporting a round chin beard, which means I don't need to shave upper lip or the chin.

I'll give the ice cold water splash a try as I have so far only rinsed with cold tap water. That's a very good recommendation. Thanks. I have a few non-alcohol aftershaves, such as the Magh Tured Aftershave balm and TOBS Royal Forest. I have tried however to apply Old Spice Classic without a prior shave; no burn. But I can see that alcohol will probably dry my skin out a bit.

I get the burn no matter whether I use the Rocca or the R89 and no matter which blade. I learned fairly quickly that the Rocca needs a very different angle than the R89. I usually have it almost parallel to my face. No matter what the Rocca manual says, 30 degrees won't work.

I indeed did very short strokes, causing me to go over unlathered areas multiple times. I have since changed to longer strokes and go over the area only once, never on unlathered areas.

I did a small test on Tuesday, which was my shave day off so my skin wasn't too irritated. I applied Aloe Vera maybe half an hour before taking a shower and then washed my face using a vegetable soap. I left the soap lather on my face for about 20 seconds before washing it off. Lo and behold, after about 15 minutes I got the same burn as I get when I shave. Which leads me to believe that rather than razor burn, I do experience soap burn. I am going to make the following adjustments to counter this issue:

- one pass WTG shaves (longer strokes, cold water splashes)
- application of Glycerin / olive oil Gel pre-shave
- addition of Glycerin / Olive oil to soap lather
- very short lather residence time on face
- application of witch hazel post-shave
- application of Aloe Vera Gel post- shave
- application of Glycerin / olive oil on non-shaving mornings & Aloe Vera in the evenings
- reduction from 3 weekly shaves to only 2 weekly shaves.

Thanks again guys for taking the time to help me out, rest assured I greatly appreciate your advice and will implement a lot of the things you have recommended.
 
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Mühle Monday, April 22, 2024

Pre-Shave: Warm water splash / YBN Glycerin
Razor: Mühle R89 Traditional Rosegold
Blade: Gillette Silver Blue (1)
Brush: Mühle Purist Silvertip Badger Ebonite
Bowl: DSC Scuttle
Cream: Speick Shaving Cream
Alum: none
A/S: Pinaud Clubman Special Reserve (decant)
Aftercare: Thayers Witch Hazel Unscented / Aloe Vera Gel
EdP: Terre d'Hermes - Eau Intense Vetiver

Great shave today with the R89 and the GSB. A throwback to my first DE shave which I've completed with the exact same setup as today (R89, GSB and Purist Silvertip Badger).

I have also finally figured out my shaving issues which plagued the last few weeks. The addition of Thayers post-shave and an application of hydrating Aloe Vera really helped the "burn". Also, only doing WTG passes and longer strokes reduced irritation considerably. I believe the issue was over exfoliation and extreme dryness. All your advice here helped tremendously and now I have a routine where shaving becomes enjoyable again.

Happy Mühle Monday all.
 
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Best way to start the week is with the Mühle Rocca! :punk:

This was my first shave with the included Mühle blade. Among the blades I've used, this is by far the smoothest.

Fantastically close shave with 3 passes. Couple of minor nicks on the neck due to overzealous buffing pushing for BBS but other than that it was a cant-wait-to-shave-again shave! I feel blessed for being able to get the Rocca this early in my DE shaving journey. Overall, this was my closest, almost BBS level shave. 😎

Peace x3 🙏
 
I have also finally figured out my shaving issues which plagued the last few weeks. The addition of Thayers post-shave and an application of hydrating Aloe Vera really helped the "burn". Also, only doing WTG passes and longer strokes reduced irritation considerably. I believe the issue was over exfoliation and extreme dryness. All your advice here helped tremendously and now I have a routine where shaving becomes enjoyable again.

I'm so glad you were able to sort out your issue! Happy shaves! 👍

Peace x3 🙏
 
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