Probably moot now since they recently filed for Ch. 11.
Are any of these higher-end retailers able to produce a suit that does not look like the wearer has stolen his little brother's communion suit? ... Or am I talking a custom suit from the start?
I suggest, if you can, that you go to a high-end retailer in person. Explain to the clerk what you are looking for. A good menswear clerk will know which of their suits on offer will meet your requirements.
There is a certain "look" that is in fashion right now (note, "fashion" ... not "style"!) and most online retailer photos are going to replicate that look, even if it means there's a few binder clips in the small of the model's back to make sure you see his belt buckle and tie tip!
I look at Brooks Brothers' site, for instance, and even their "classic fit" suits have the wearer's belt buckle showing in the inverted V of the suit coat below the fastened button.
Are any of these higher-end retailers able to produce a suit that does not look like the wearer has stolen his little brother's communion suit? I look at Brooks Brothers' site, for instance, and even their "classic fit" suits have the wearer's belt buckle showing in the inverted V of the suit coat below the fastened button. Worse, they've dressed the models so that almost every one has the tip of his tie peeping out down there too, like a cat's tongue. I want an old-style suit where you don't see the belt buckle unless the wearer unfastens his coat.
Now I'm trim and of medium height. Is it possible to get a pair of suit pants that sit a bit higher than these low-slung near-casual things, together with a suit coat that is not so tight that you are desperate to get it off? Or am I talking a custom suit from the start?