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McVeyMac/phat Gold Dollar Honing Experiment and Practice

Oh, and my intention was to PIF the 100, non-conus - after I shave with it.. :)

Likewise, I intend to PIF the MVM GD 100 CONUS, even though it has given me one of the best shaves of my life. I have another still in the factory box.
 
Those are much more acute than my GD66 was.

Yes, I measured both several times. I did not measure blade width from the back of the spine to the edge because the back of the spine is suspended in air while on the hone. I measured it to the middle of the spine hone wear. I will measure the NIB GD 66 that phat is sending to see if it likewise has > 20 degree bevel angle. If it does, the first thing will be to tape the edge and thin the spine.
 
I measured it to the middle of the spine hone wear.
It should be measured to the same point that you measure the thickness, which is normally the 'back' of the spine wear farthest from the edge. 1/2thickness/width >anti-sin x 2.

Mine was well over 20 degrees and hard to measure because the spine was s shaped making it functionally thicker than the measurement would suggest. I brought it down to 16 degrees and, IMO, the shave was much better. Not everyone agrees that this makes any difference and I respect that, as I can't prove differently. My favorite razors are all in the 15.5*- 16* range, but I know that before the shave, so my assessment is subjective.
 
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Likewise, I intend to PIF the MVM GD 100 CONUS, even though it has given me one of the best shaves of my life.

Just think - it spreads the love, and knowing how well it shaved you have the impetus to do it again on another.

I'll be honest, this exercise is not what I thought when I started, but dealing with the "problems" on these has made me better at dealing with strangeness on my other razors (like my Geneva ugly duckling, and my TI frameback)
 
Just think - it spreads the love, and knowing how well it shaved you have the impetus to do it again on another.

I'll be honest, this exercise is not what I thought when I started, but dealing with the "problems" on these has made me better at dealing with strangeness on my other razors (like my Geneva ugly duckling, and my TI frameback)

It certainly did not go as I had envisioned (smooth), but I think that the exercise taught us both a valuable lesson with regard to dealing with problems and correcting them on the stones. In this regard, I think it was a huge success for both of us, and satisfied the intent of the exercise.
 
About to do another side by side drag race with the MVM GD 100 (Left) and the phat GD 100 (Right). Except this time I cannot loose as I have honed both razors.




MVM GD100 on top

The honing process was as described above for both razors. I deliberately killed the edge prior to honing as both were very much shave ready at the beginning of honing. The only note of significance is that my GD100 has a slight protrusion at the stabilizer that I worked on to lower, but it was still present to a slight degree. I decided to avoid it for all subsequent honing strokes. The phat GD 100 had no such problem due to the modifications that he had made. Both razors honed up well on the Chosera 1K, and the progression from there went with no issues. I must say that the polish on the edge after coming off of the Arkansas stones is not as mirrored as the edge that phat had sent. I am not sure if 100 laps on the translucent followed by 150 laps on the Black (Ultra Fine) were not enough, or if these stones might have additional breaking in to do. The warp to the phat GD 100 is pronounced, and my honing did not completely follow phat's honing all the way to the toe over the entire bevel, but the apex was polished all the way to the toe as well as the heel on both sides. But clearly the bevel is not evenly sized across the blade on either side. The MVM GD 100 has a fairly even bevel across the blade, and the sides are symmetrical.

Strop: Tony Miller Heirloom strop. Both razors had 40 Canvas and 125 leather.
Razor: Time Since Last Hone: Virgin shave on both razors.
Hones: I honed both razors as described.
Prep: Shower with facial cleanser, Proraso Green Pre
Brush: Whipped Dog High Mountain Badger
Software: Tabac
Razor: Left Lane, McVeyMac Gold Dollar 100; Right Lane, phat Gold Dollar 100
Growth (days): 2
Method: Three Pass: 1X N-S/WTG, 1X XTG with ATG on the neck and jaw line, and 1X S-N/ATG. One small pass ATG touchup problems with lather on neck/jaw/chin.
Post: Proraso Green AS Balm, strop 30/60 on canvas/leather.

Results:

MVM GD 100: Very smooth feeling on the initial WTG pass; however, I could feel the razor go through the 2 day growth with some audible feedback. But, there was no discomfort. The blade felt very sooth. On the second XTG pass, the blade felt equally comfortable, and the results at the end of the pass were very near an acceptable work day shave. The final ATG and follow on cleanup resulted in about 99% BBS. An exceptional and enjoyable shave

Phat GD 100: I could discern absolutely no difference in the feel of this razor compared to mine on either of the passes. However, there was a very slight difference in the result on the R side of the chin at one of my historic problem areas. There was a small area of palpable whisker rubbing ATG with the hand, but it is both a small area and the whisker is very short.
Conclusion: In this side by side drag race, I could not discern any difference in the feel of these two razors having only shaved 0.5 times with each. The resulting shave from these two razors was discernibly different; however this could be technique. I did pay particular attention to this area while shaving it, but the MVM GD 100 might not have shave it any better. Historically both sides of the chin just under the jaw line are problems, but the right side is the trickier of the two

Remarks: Both GD 100s performed very well. As reported above, I measured the bevel angle of both razors, and both fall within satisfactory ranges. I dried both razors off and stropped them 30/60, Canvas/Leather. I put on a coat of to each razor, placed them back into their factory plastic sleeves and placed them into the aluminum razor cases that phat had used to ship them to me. The phat GD 100 will be shipped back this week, while I will develop the PIF for CONUS. I have yet to speak to phat about this, but we might want to run the PIFs together, one razor for CONUS and one for OCONUS.

As stated above, this was a very worth while exercise for me. As was stated by others, making the GD razor shave ready is a good practice to fix problems that you might find with other razors you might come across. The journey was not at all like I had envisioned at the onset, and it took much longer to accomplish due to delays in shipping, travel schedules and grandchildren being born. But, I am exceedingly glad that we did this, and the experience was very worth while. Thank you my friend phat for coming up with the idea. Cheers, and job well done! I look forward to the results of the phat GD 100 up against the Fili 14, or whatever razor that phat chooses to compare it to.

Questions: None

Work On: See Journal
 
Gee, you could accidentally send that scuttle with it, you know, just so I could do a completely objective evaluation :lol:
 

rockviper

I got moves like Jagger
Swartzengrumpenfizzledee scuttle! (or something like that :tongue_sm) These things always make me happy to see. Maybe I will get one, one day.... maybe *sigh*

How many times have you guys sent these blades cross border? My wallet trembles in fear as I know the CA-to-US rough costs must be close to $10 per trip. Any issues with customs?
 
Due to delays in getting started from the original shipment to Canada from the seller, I shipped mine to phat one time, and phat sent it back with his one time. I think his shipping was about $10.00 and I think mine was about $20 as I used Priority Mail. So all in all, not too bad. When sending phat's back to him, it will only be the second shipment from my end.
 

rockviper

I got moves like Jagger
Somehow I was under the impression that you guys were shipping back-and-forth like crazy. Must be due to the thread's traffic :thumbup1:
 
I've sent once, and McVeyMac has sent once. No issues yet, I mark as gift, etc.

With these ones we each ordered from china, mine took a lot longer to get to me so McVeyMac had mailed his to me before I got mine, so I took his GD to austraila with me and back, it's been well travelled. I then got mine and honed it up and sent to him, with his.

I've proactively ordered a few '66's which are now here, so I'll be sending him a virgin one along with mine for round two :)

Honestly, yeah it costs a bit of postage, but at lease for me, it's a lot of fun, and I think we're both learning from it - Considering how easy it is for me to spend 10 or 15 dollars on soap or aftershave, it's really not much :)
 
Well, that location is certainly a moving target - GD to GD, in my experience :lol:

I measured at the toe, middle and heal of the blade, then averaged the measurement. But thinking it through, the back of the hone wear would be the appropriate spot to measure since it has the same angle as the bevel.
 
And yeah, let's coordinate the PIF's, so nobody in either postage zone feels slighted :)

Gotta make sure we get the glamour shots of where yours has shaved in... The beach swim prep and beach shower shave on Moreton Island were pretty darn memorable :lol:
 

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Oh, and I'm very glad you noticed mine's a bit warped.. One of those things (like noticing your edge wouldn't HHT my own hair but would HHT my wife's) that is nice to see someone else confirming, and I'm not just crazy :)
 
I measured at the toe, middle and heal of the blade, then averaged the measurement. But thinking it through, the back of the hone wear would be the appropriate spot to measure since it has the same angle as the bevel.

I'm gonna have to try when I get them, and see if I can duplicate your numbers..
 
I'm gonna have to try when I get them, and see if I can duplicate your numbers..

Word of caution, I actually took the calipers and placed against the edge. I'm certain this wrecked the edge. Make sure you wait until your ready to hone before trying it. When starting with a factory GD, it might make sense to make some passes on a hone to generate some hone wear so you know where to measure.
 
Curious why you didn't remove the offensive shoulder before you got started?

I've tackled a few GD's solely for the purpose of practice and always mod the shoulder to remove the high spots. Honing one GD will give you the opportunity to find work-arounds for what could be a lifetime of honing problems.
 
Shoulders can be hung off the hone easily. Did you mean the stabilizer? Double stabilizers can be a little more to hone as they are but no biggie really.
 
I think he means the stabilizer... I actually removed it on mine, since my weapons at the time were either 15 um film, or dremel tool :)

as I now have a couple DMT's I may try keeping it :)
 
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