I need some honing advice. I'm setting the bevel on a new but older Hart Steel razor. Out of the box, no part of the blade passed the thumb nail test. After some time on the 1k, the rear half of the blade passes the thumb nail test, but the front half is not even close. I need some suggestions as to how I should approach this. Should I spend more time on the 1k with only the front half of the blade on the stone and apply some pressure? Should I keep the entire blade on the stone and apply some pressure on the front half? Suggestions please.
Issue With Setting Bevel
- Thread starter TheLegalRazor
- Start date
kelbro
Alfred Spatchcock
Have you ever set a bevel before?
The 01 tool steel on Harts can be pretty tough. I believe that they were honed with tape at the factory so you will need to overcome that.
Mine were all great razors but some folks had issues with the later models.
The 01 tool steel on Harts can be pretty tough. I believe that they were honed with tape at the factory so you will need to overcome that.
Mine were all great razors but some folks had issues with the later models.
Start with checking if your razor is flat just in case.
Place it on a surface that you know is flat, touch each corners of the razor, toe, heel while touching the opposite part of the spine, see if it wiggles. If it does wiggle, it is not flat, if you don't want to make it flat, then another way of attack is needed, like rolling x strokes.
Place it on a surface that you know is flat, touch each corners of the razor, toe, heel while touching the opposite part of the spine, see if it wiggles. If it does wiggle, it is not flat, if you don't want to make it flat, then another way of attack is needed, like rolling x strokes.
This may help you sort it out.
It could be a couple of things, so if the razors is tool steel you need to go back to 1k until the bevel is set. Rolling x strokes is a good way to hone razor to ensure you get an even bevel even if the blade is not If its warped/wobble you need to correct the geometry. If this razor was tool steel it would take many hours to correct. Also the wobble was only on one side, so check both side...
The picture below is of a new BQ that had wobbling issues on the the spine (one side only), this high spot ausing the wobblehad to be removed to ensure flat and blade geometry and a straight even bevel. The cutting edge is hopefully visible in the photo showing a well defined and evenly set bevel. This is what you are looking before moving on.
The picture below is of a new BQ that had wobbling issues on the the spine (one side only), this high spot ausing the wobblehad to be removed to ensure flat and blade geometry and a straight even bevel. The cutting edge is hopefully visible in the photo showing a well defined and evenly set bevel. This is what you are looking before moving on.
Last edited:
Hart razors were honed on a layer of tape at the factory, so you’ll need to match that angle. Do not use localized pressure to get one part of the blade honed. You will, however, need to use ‘some’ pressure, evenly across the blade, to set a bevel on the 1k. If your razor has a warp or a smile, you may need to use rolling strokes. Posting clear photos can help.
Similar threads
