True but if you follow the film with balsa, you can omit the paper.It would probably give more than paper would, but paper would give a more uniform amount, regardless of pressure applied. Just thinking aloud.
True but if you follow the film with balsa, you can omit the paper.It would probably give more than paper would, but paper would give a more uniform amount, regardless of pressure applied. Just thinking aloud.
Slash says to hold the balsa at a 45 degree to avoid pressure. I don't use paper under film. I see no need.This is true
It is also true that the balsa is somewhat compressible. It gives under the razor, ever so slightly, but much more so than film on tile (unless you put a sheet of paper under the film).
True but if you follow the film with balsa, you can omit the paper.
I wasn't stating either as being a negative. The film with paper would be easier to produce a consistent micro-bevel, while the balsa could be used at slightly varying pressures to produce different micro-bevels, you would want to use the same amount of pressure per razor. Differing thicknesses of balsa might yield similar, theoretical differences.Slash says to hold the balsa at a 45 degree to avoid pressure. I don't use paper under film. I see no need.
I had never considered the softness of balsa but that’s a consideration. Perhaps the reason balsa works better than other woods. Everything is working on a micro level so it makes sense even with light pressure.I wasn't stating either as being a negative. The film with paper would be easier to produce a consistent micro-bevel, while the balsa could be used at slightly varying pressures to produce different micro-bevels, you would want to use the same amount of pressure per razor. Differing thicknesses of balsa might yield similar, theoretical differences.
And that's why I said "Just Thinking" in the original post. I'm not proficient enough honing yet to try to test. Wouldn't know if the change was me, or the method, whether better or worseI had never considered the softness of balsa but that’s a consideration. Perhaps the reason balsa works better than other woods. Everything is working on a micro level so it makes sense even with light pressure.
It won’t take long. Good edges come quickly but improve over time. The only deviation I’ve made is using a 1k stone for bevel setting because the 30u film wears out too quickly. I offer free honing to new guys to help me keep learning since my razors never need honing again due to daily maintenance.And that's why I said "Just Thinking" in the original post. I'm not proficient enough honing yet to try to test. Wouldn't know if the change was me, or the method, whether better or worse
I wasn't stating either as being a negative. The film with paper would be easier to produce a consistent micro-bevel, while the balsa could be used at slightly varying pressures to produce different micro-bevels, you would want to use the same amount of pressure per razor. Differing thicknesses of balsa might yield similar, theoretical differences.
Because the wet paper would compress very little with little change due to pressure. Balsa would compress a lot, by comparison, which would vary greatly due to pressure applied. The newer the honer, the more likely consistent pressure would not be applied.I don’t know why you would think it would be easier. I’ve honed over 10 antique razors easy as pie. I do go down to .5 micron however and some don’t .
Or how many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie-roll tootsie-pop. Someone could try thicker balsa, or more sheets of paper. Not me though. I try to get others to behow many angels can dance on the head of a pin
My balsa is 3/4” but I don’t believe the thickness makes a difference. My quests 1/8 would perform this same.Or how many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie-roll tootsie-pop. Someone could try thicker balsa, or more sheets of paper. Not me though. I try to get others to becrash-test dummiesexplorers and innovators.
Thanks for the comment. Makes perfect sense.Yes, the compression that soft balsa gives you, provides the same benefit that a hanging strop does. The edge sinks down a bit into the medium, allowing the medium to curve up and reach just the underside of the tip of the tip.
I like pasted balsa strops, and used to think that the only benefit of the balsa was that its softness allowed the diamond to bury into it, so you didn't have a slurry crashing directly into the edge.
But now I think there's a second benefit of balsa. The compression makes it bend and curve up to hug the underside of the edge, just like a hanging strop.
I think that's also why Slash says light strokes are needed. A heavy stroke would sink it too far down, so the very tip of the tip might be forced directly into the medium, dulling it. Just as a thick slurry will crash into the front of the edge. Which is why we finish by washing away the slurry and finish on water.
At least that's what I believe today. Heck, we're just using our imaginations to guess at what's happening down at the microscopic world. it's like the old theologists debating how many angels can dance on the head of a pin.
OK one question about using those from my post above. I did use a hard knife edge to make sure the diamonds are well embedded before using them on razors, I think it worked well. There are visible darker streaks on the balsa after using it, I think that means the diamonds are doing their job and cutting a bit of metal, I assume that's normal for this kind of strop.
But one of the razors I want to start stropping is a wedge. I honed that with tape, and since this balsa strop is rigid that means that if I try to strop the wedge without tape, the actual edge will not touch the strop thus it won't do anything. OTOH I don't want to put tape on it every day... I thought about leaving the tape in place but that wouldn't be good either, water will seep under it and lead to rusting/pitting.
I'm far from an expert, but I notice a thin border area directly against the edge. I would take this to be a microbevel, which would indicate that the balsa strop is connecting at the region it should to be useful. It would be polishing the bevel furthest from the edge if it wasn't working.Here are a few pictures of the edge that I took with an USB microscope. I'm not an expert on edges so I'm not exactly sure on how to interpret them. This is after honing (done yesterday) and stropping today - 30x on 0.25micron and 60x on 0.1micron. These are for the wedge razor. The honing was with tape, the stropping without tape.
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OK one question about using those from my post above. I did use a hard knife edge to make sure the diamonds are well embedded before using them on razors, I think it worked well. There are visible darker streaks on the balsa after using it, I think that means the diamonds are doing their job and cutting a bit of metal, I assume that's normal for this kind of strop.
But one of the razors I want to start stropping is a wedge. I honed that with tape, and since this balsa strop is rigid that means that if I try to strop the wedge without tape, the actual edge will not touch the strop thus it won't do anything. OTOH I don't want to put tape on it every day... I thought about leaving the tape in place but that wouldn't be good either, water will seep under it and lead to rusting/pitting.
At least that's what I believe today. Heck, we're just using our imaginations to guess at what's happening down at the microscopic world. it's like the old theologists debating how many angels can dance on the head of a pin.
Yeah that's why I don't want to leave it on.The tape adhesive actually causes oxidization (rust), if left on the metal.
I'm far from an expert, but I notice a thin border area directly against the edge. I would take this to be a microbevel, which would indicate that the balsa strop is connecting at the region it should to be useful. It would be polishing the bevel furthest from the edge if it wasn't working.
My take at least. Someone with my experience?