Advice on Diamond Pasted Balsa use

[Doc Dan]

Hi folks,

I have a question. Thanks to Chard52142 I got into stropping with diamond pasted balsa and the results have been pretty good and I'm getting better. My question is, is it necessary to hold the strop in the hand or can one set it on a table?

The reason I ask is that I have a few old injuries that bother me and it is easier for me to control the pressure and keep contact with the strop if I set it on the table. I've done both handheld and table top and I seem to get slightly better results with the table top (I still do the hanging strop). I realize my technique needs building, but I wonder if holding it in the hand is really that critical if consistent light pressure can be maintained on the table.

I took a razor with a factory edge and using the table top got it to where it would pop hair and easily treetop hair. I have more to do, but it went from nil to thrill in a short time.

Tell me what you think.

 

[Jayboz]

No expert by far here, but have been using diamond balsa for awhile bc i im still trying to figure out’s stones. I think the idea of holding in hand is to minimize pressure. But if you have to set it on the table due to circumstances, id do the best you can to minimize pressure.

What im about to say is heresy in the diamond balsa world. I dropped one of my original strops and bc i was using tile as the backer, it shattered. Instead of ordering the acrylic, I picked up 2x3x12 balsa blocks from Hobby Lobby. Lapped the top flat and have been using it successfully. I keep it in a baseball card storage box to keep an humidity at bay. So far, its stayed true and hasnt warped. I know this isnt the prescription, but figured if it warped, id rip them down to 1/4” and have balsa for the rest of my lifetime. It may be an option for you as its lighter than strops with backers, unless youre in a real humid place.

 

[Tanuki]

@Jayboz is completely correct. 2x3 balsa rules. I use top end Bud Nosen branded stuff and it holds its shape/flatness perfectly. I actually get 36" long pieces and make 18" strops. Handheld is about all I do, but bench strops have been in use for centuries.

I believe rbscebu used his daily balsa maintenance strop as a hanging strop, sort of halfway to handheld.

I don't even call it light pressure. I use as little pressure as I possibly can, just keeping the blade in contact with the strop. I still slowly build a slowly darkening broad swarf streak on the strop. When after some months it starts looking too 'dirty' to me I sand it to resurface, even though I have never noticed the performance drop off.

I have used my balsa on a tabletop with perfectly good results, but "in hand" is fast and convenient for me. It sounds like what you are doing is working well.

 

[Doc Dan]

It may be my technique, though I do the hanging really well. I use as little pressure as required to keep the razor on the strop and not come off at any point, basically the weight of the razor itself. I steady it with one finger without pressure. So far, so good. However, if I do need to do only hand held I'll gladly do that. However, I took the blonde from shaving well, to shaving wow! using this method. I messed it up doing handheld and went back to on the table. I took the factory edge of the black one to hair popping on the table and then hanging. I had a great shave today as a result.

I guess, I am asking whether what I am doing is okay or should I do the other for better results.

 

[steveclarkus]

Hi folks,

I have a question. Thanks to Chard52142 I got into stropping with diamond pasted balsa and the results have been pretty good and I'm getting better. My question is, is it necessary to hold the strop in the hand or can one set it on a table?

The reason I ask is that I have a few old injuries that bother me and it is easier for me to control the pressure and keep contact with the strop if I set it on the table. I've done both handheld and table top and I seem to get slightly better results with the table top (I still do the hanging strop). I realize my technique needs building, but I wonder if holding it in the hand is really that critical if consistent light pressure can be maintained on the table.

I took a razor with a factory edge and using the table top got it to where it would pop hair and easily treetop hair. I have more to do, but it went from nil to thrill in a short time.

Tell me what you think.

Just do whatever is more comfortable for you. The key is to use very light pressure.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

. I realize my technique needs building, but I wonder if holding it in the hand is really that critical if consistent light pressure can be maintained on the table.

Light pressure is key. I imagine for many people it's easier to learn that by holding it in hand, hence the recommendation. But if circumstance prevents you from doing that effectively it can certainly be accomplished on the table as well--a you've proven by the results.

My nephew has an essential tremor and he strops two handed, on the bench. His edges are great.

 

[Doc Dan]

Thanks. Too much adventure in my life and now I am paying for it.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Whatever works for you, there are no rules.

Diamonds cut deep, and if used with pressure cut deeper, this can affect edge life.

I find that when I use a paddle strop with one edge on the bench for tools and knives, I use more pressure.

Years ago, when I tested paste and substrates there were better substrates than balsa. I preferred Diamond and CBN edges from hanging paper strops, Pellon.

My paddles are leather glued to ½ inch MDF or ¼ inch bamboo cutting boards. I rarely use paste on razors, except Chrome Oxide on a hanging sail cloth strop while honing, between stones.

But that's me, whatever works for you. Rock on.

 

[Doc Dan]

This is new territory for me.

 

[Jayboz]

Hi @Tanuki, question for you. Are you doing anything different for smiling blades on the balsa progression as far as stroke type? If so, would you care to describe to it?

Have a couple smiling blades that i think will go to balsa but wasn't sure if it required a modification to the straight stroke (blade perpendicular to long edges of balsa). Thanks.