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How To Use a Pasted Balsa Strop

steveclarkus

Goose Poop Connoisseur
If edge looks good under magnification, and does well at treetopping or HHT, whatever sharpness test you use, and you don't see any deep scratches in the bevel especially near the edge, then you should be good. Running the balsa progression again or maybe just the .1u ought to bring it home nicely. I find that a half dozen pull strokes is enough. For me. And I am only theorizing about more than a dozen possibly being excessive at coarser grits. It is a YMMV thing at this point. But if every indication is that you have a sharp Method edge, maybe it is your shave that is off, and you need to adjust to the keener edge by using a tighter shave angle. These edges, especially on a razor with an acute bevel angle, perform best with the spine barely off the face, for most shavers. I know I very nearly drag the spine on my face when shaving with a well finished Method edge, same as with a shavette and a Feather DE blade. This is I think part of the perception of greater smoothness that most Method honers experience in their shaves. Note that actually dragging the spine can make the shave feel less rather than more kind to the face. That is very much a YMMV thing I think. Having tried it, I find the razor sometimes travels in fits and starts, kind of jerky, with the spine dragging, even with the best lather I can manage. Lifting it just off the skin is a game changer, for me.

One more thing that I might mention is that a very highly polished bevel that is particularly wide can sometimes develop a sort of stiction to the face. This can make a razor feel unkind to the skin. Lately I have been giving some thought to this and I might try to come up with a workable, practical solution to that problem. Meanwhile if you are getting comfortable edges on razors with a narrower bevel but not very wide bevels, (talking about the actual width of the bevel surface) you might try your hand at Jnat finishing. Under certain conditions a Jnat finish with it's classic cloudy surface seems to break the face stiction. YMMV. Or else go back to the higher shave angle and just watch the pressure closely. There are so many factors at play here that sometimes with some razors you get unexpected results that make slight changes in technique perform better. This entire post is very much a YMMV thing. Sticking to The Method as originally posted WILL give you an astonishingly sharp edge. USUALLY with a small shave angle it will feel very smooth on the face. If none of your razors do, assuming you have a variety of razors and not just a bouquet of GDs or wedges or whatever, then you are doing something wrong. Look to the shave, as well as to the edge itself, for the answer.
Interesting comment on blade angle. This may be the reason my most comfortable shaves come from a 4/8. I may be using a shallower blade angle.
 

steveclarkus

Goose Poop Connoisseur
Place the blade across the stone and pull it lightly a few times then finish with a few normal laps. You only need to pull it an inch or so.
 
To add clarity, pull it in the direction as if removing a dagger, or maybe pulling a knife from a sheath as a more pleasant visual. I usually add a small amount of edge leading motion to this.
 

steveclarkus

Goose Poop Connoisseur
To add clarity, pull it in the direction as if removing a dagger, or maybe pulling a knife from a sheath as a more pleasant visual. I usually add a small amount of edge leading motion to this.
Thanks. Good idea about small edge leading. Makes more sense than what I’ve been doing considering the objective.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Be careful with any edge leading motion on balsa. You will possibly slice into the balsa. For film or stone, yeah try it.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Be careful with any edge leading motion on balsa. You will possibly slice into the balsa. For film or stone, yeah try it.
 
Oh yeah, I forgot that I was in the balsa thread.:001_tongu I do the described stroke when finishing on stones.

My bad!
 
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I just finished redoing the entire Method system.

I started the Method last summer. Enjoyed it, but was not amazing.

Recently I decided to give it another try, but this time really paying attention to detail.

This time I lapped the balsa very carefully. Paid close attention to the amount of paste. And wiped the balsa clean of extra paste to be sure.

Also my shaving technique has improved. Quite a lot.

Also I am finally using a very good straight. A new Bismark.

And yes, today I can report that the result was much better.

This was a new Bismark honed by Jarrod on a SB Arkie that he magically made slightly convex, in the Dovo style. So pretty darn good to start off with eh?

Anyway, I honed it on a flattened nani12. Then .5u, .25u and .1u. Doing the technique precisely Methodlyish.

Very good result. Sharp and smooth. Noticeably better than the lazy Method I did before.

The details do make a difference. It wasn't like before I completely ignored the Method technique. I just didn't go 100%.

Just like jnats or cotis, you have to pay attention and do it right, or you get mediocre results.
 
Oh, hey, and I hope Slash McCoy can answer this.

What about maintaining on .1u film?

I remember ages ago I was discussing film and Slash said he was surprised that film as small as .1u existed. He hadn't heard of that when he was creating The Method.

Well, i have .1u film. I think I'll try maintaining a razor on it. Get the razor sharp with nani12k then pasted balsa with diamond .5u then .25u then .1u. But once the razor is there, then do the daily maintenance on .1u film.

Since I'm honing, edge leading, it probably needs less than the forty laps of daily stropping I am doing on the pasted balsa. And maybe it just needs to be done weekly, not daily. Dunno.

Just out of curiosity.

I'll let you know.

Anybody else tried this?
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
I suspect it will work though the edge might not be quite as comfortable as off balsa. I would go 1u, .3u, and then .1u, and use picopaper under the .1u always. I think you need a slight bit of resilience when finishing that fine. And maybe picopaper under the .1u for maintenance. Probably you could do a dozen laps on the .1u daily or every other day, I don't know. That is uncharted territory so you would be traveling the road not yet traveled, and finding the way for the rest of us. Good luck.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
I thought I read where some are maintaining on .1 pasted balsa and is maintaining edge well.

Yes, absolutely. I never have to rehone my razors. I go 50 laps on the balsa post shave and the edge pretty much stays science fiction sharp. However, the .1u will not make a 12k or 1u edge sharp. The jump is too wide. To establish the method edge, a good 12k or 1u edge is required, and then a progression of properly prepared pasted balsa strops, .5u, .25u, and finally .1u, but once it is formed then the .1u can indeed maintain the edge. If you read all 27 pages of this thread, you will know all that you need to know about it, I think.
 

steveclarkus

Goose Poop Connoisseur
I thought I read where some are maintaining on .1 pasted balsa and is maintaining edge well.
I have been doing the .1u balsa on my razors since April and never had to hone in touch up any of them and have actually found improvement of the edge. Using balsa in lieu of film would actually be easier because the balsa is always ready and you would have to set up the film and paper each time. Seems like extra steps. I actually timed use of balsa after a shave yesterday and it took exactly two minutes with slow deliberate strokes - approximately twice the time as 50 laps on leather so time isn’t a real issue. I’m convinced @Slash McCoy got it right. Extreme overall efficiency.
 
I'd also think that .1u film is not the same as .1u paste on balsa. The particle size on the film is as marked, while with balsa the particles get embedded and therefore are "smaller" than the measured size. So .1u balsa acts as a higher grit finisher than the .1u film.
 
This is proof that we are all crazy apes. We find something that works just fine, like .1u on balsa and then our imaginations want to try something else. Well, my imagination does anyway.

Of course the only reason we found .1u on balsa in the first place was inventive dissatisfaction.

I also think the .1u film will be worse. But I'll let you know what I find.
 

steveclarkus

Goose Poop Connoisseur
Im too lazy to try it but look forward to the outcome. My guess is that there won’t be much difference if any. I used .125u CBN for daily maintenance for a couple of months and couldn’t tell the difference.
 
I'd also think that .1u film is not the same as .1u paste on balsa. The particle size on the film is as marked, while with balsa the particles get embedded and therefore are "smaller" than the measured size. So .1u balsa acts as a higher grit finisher than the .1u film.
This is true

It is also true that the balsa is somewhat compressible. It gives under the razor, ever so slightly, but much more so than film on tile (unless you put a sheet of paper under the film).
 
This is true

It is also true that the balsa is somewhat compressible. It gives under the razor, ever so slightly, but much more so than film on tile (unless you put a sheet of paper under the film).
It would probably give more than paper would, but paper would give a more uniform amount, regardless of pressure applied. Just thinking aloud.
 
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