Home Brewing Question

[Mama Bear]

Mama Sue:
What yeast are you using for the Imperial Stout? Just curious. The last one I did was with a fairly attenuating champagne yeast. The last bottle of that run was even yummier four years later. Definitely a rather expensive stout, based on how much malts were in it. IIRC the initial gravity on that beast was over 1180. You've got me jonesin' for another batch now. Well, at least after it cools down in a month or so.

Wayne

Wayne, I used the yeast package that came in the kit... lol.. I have never played with yeast.. I have added things to the kits that I have bought, but I haven't altered the basic kits yet... for instance, once I made this stout with chocolate malt added... that was awesome..

But, I am not as experienced as some of you and I feel like I have found the holy grail of information here now...

I went to measure the specific gravity and realized my hydrometer had broken and I'd forgotten.... this lead to an enormous online purchase which included 2 hydrometers... just in case, you know.... now I am sweating out the AD...

The direction said I should have initially a specific gravity of 1.070 - 1.080 and end up with 1.020 - 1.030... I can't even imagine 1.180! What did you do to get it way up there...!? What kind of yeast would you have put in this batch of mine... ?? What would be the benefit of using a champagne yeast in a beer or stout??

Wooohoooo

 

[Mama Bear]

Imperial stout, man that sounds great!

Even though you've started the fermentation...I'd say probably not to scrape. I usually whirlpool the wort, chill it then rack it to the primary and avoid getting as much trub as possible.

The only flavored type of beer I've done is the Mint Summer Blonde. Threw about 1 oz of mint leaves into the beginning of the boil. Its minty in the green/leafy sense, not peppermint.

Thanks Ed! I ended up not scraping... it was just too ugly...

oooohh. mint... yum! Got an extra bottle? I can trade for the stout in a month.... ;-)

 

[OldSaw]

Sue,

Which books have you read on this? Back in my drinking/brewing days, Charlie Papazien was the leading homebrew guru. In fact I patterned my B&B signature after his famous saying, "Relax...Don't worry...Have a Homebrew".

My favorite recipe of my own creation is Wisconsin Spring Porter. I used about 20+ gallons of maple sap as the brewing water for a half barrel batch.

I see you asked about yeast. This can lead to whole new obsessions. You should really make yeast starters though to get those batches bubbling quickly.

I really shouldn't have jumped in here though, since I shut down the brew house about ten years ago when I moved and gave up drinking shortly after receiving Jesus Christ about nine years ago, everything I know is probably old hat. I don't think there is anything wrong with responsible drinking, I just prefer not to.

 

[Mama Bear]

OMG! Maple Sap...

I quit doing this a year ago because I gained 30 lbs from my beer... But I was drinking too much of it... and I am going to be more responsible this time... really....

You know, I always said I would not be like my mom... always in the kitchen cooking.... I think I spend more time in the kitchen now than she ever did... I can't cook.. there is something just wrong about this... I have never been happier tho!

The brew master I learned from was a yeast addict... I never caught on to the nuances tho.. would you recommend I get Charlie Papazien's book??

Thanks everyone!!! Thanks so much!!

 

[Edcculus]

Thanks Ed! I ended up not scraping... it was just too ugly...

oooohh. mint... yum! Got an extra bottle? I can trade for the stout in a month.... ;-)

I'll save you one! I'll save one of the IPA's I just brewed too
Speaking of which. I've seen a lot of people talking about trading beer at the homebrew forum I frequent (homebrewtalk.com). I just cant figure out how the He** this is possible without them getting shaken up and way too hot.

Sue,

Which books have you read on this? Back in my drinking/brewing days, Charlie Papazien was the leading homebrew guru. In fact I patterned my B&B signature after his famous saying, "Relax...Don't worry...Have a Homebrew".

Whenever in doubt, RDWHAHB!

 

[Mama Bear]

I'll save you one! I'll save one of the IPA's I just brewed too
Speaking of which. I've seen a lot of people talking about trading beer at the homebrew forum I frequent (homebrewtalk.com). I just cant figure out how the He** this is possible without them getting shaken up and way too hot.

!

Ah... good thought...! Maybe it would be better to wait for cooler weather.. I have issues with the shaving soaps and creams during July and August sometimes..... The stout won't be ready for a few weeks anyway.... what do the folks on the forum do???

 

[F16WarBird]

"The New Complete Joy of Home Brewing" is a fantastic book. It's the perfect introduction for first time brewers and is an excellent book for intermediate brewers to use to brush up.


"New Brewing Lager Beer" is an amazing book for intermediate to advanced brewers. It's not limited to lagers, but it is geared for all grain brewers.

"Designing Great Beers: The Ultimate Guide to Brewing Classic Beer Styles" is one of my favorite books because I enjoy building recipes rather than recreate them. This book is perfect for that because it breaks down, in exhausting detail, all of the nuances of each beer style.

 

[BrewShaver]

I've been brewing on and off since 1994, and have to say that while ol' C-Pap has a nice style, there is a far, far better book these days: Joh Palmer's How To Brew.

Best part is that the meat of it is free, online: http://howtobrew.com/

As for shipping beer in the summer, ice packs and LOTS of packing material help, but June-September is kind of non-ideal for sending beer around. Same with serious cold -- the stuff can freeze on doorsteps if you live in places that get REALLY cold.

Designing Great Beers is also a phenomenal book, although it's starting to get fairly dated at this point, given the explosion of specialty malts, new hops, and yeasts that are now available.

Morebeer.com and Northernbrewer.com are two excellent online homebrew shops that also have GREAT forums, full of helpful, knowledgable brewers.

 

[Zeni]

I can be at your house Sue in about 45 mins.

Does Tank like beer?

 

[Mama Bear]

I can be at your house Sue in about 45 mins.

Does Tank like beer?

Erik, you have been promising to bring your daughters for a year now.... you are overdue... and Tank LOVES beer... but I have to drink it for him...

I am very familiar with Northern Brewers site. They just got a whole bunch of money from me.... I really like the site too... I ordered a barley wine kit from them (along with a few other things I couldn't possibly live another day without) and am all excited about getting and making that.. I adore barley wine but haven't found a kit until yesterday.. The other books and sites are going to be checked out today!!! You guys are Great!!! but, I knew that already...

 

[Mama Bear]

I've been brewing on and off since 1994, and have to say that while ol' C-Pap has a nice style, there is a far, far better book these days: Joh Palmer's How To Brew.

Best part is that the meat of it is free, online: http://howtobrew.com/

.

This is awesome... I actually have put the new Harry Potter down to read this.. Thanks so much!!!!!!

 

[Mama Bear]

uh oh...I need help, my fermenter is not bubbling.... I haven't had this happen before. What should I do??

 

[F16WarBird]

How long has it been since you pitched the yeast?

What kind of beer are you making?

What is the temperature in the room?

 

[Mama Bear]

How long has it been since you pitched the yeast?

What kind of beer are you making?

What is the temperature in the room?

I pitched the yeast a little over 24 hours ago... I am making Imperial Stout and the temp is around 69-70 degrees..

 

[Edcculus]

You should be fine. If you didnt make a starter, it may take a little longer for it to kick in.

a few more questions:

What kind of yeast is it? -
What are you using as a primary - carboy or bucket? If you are using a bucket, make sure the lid is on good. The seal on these things can be tough to get on and off sometimes.

If you are using a kit (extract or partial mash?) there is very little you can screw up.

remember: RDWHAHB!

 

[Mama Bear]

You should be fine. If you didnt make a starter, it may take a little longer for it to kick in.

a few more questions:

What kind of yeast is it? -
What are you using as a primary - carboy or bucket? If you are using a bucket, make sure the lid is on good. The seal on these things can be tough to get on and off sometimes.

If you are using a kit (extract or partial mash?) there is very little you can screw up.

remember: RDWHAHB!

I didn't make a starter... but I think I will start doing this in the future.. Using the bucket, I will transfer to a carboy for the secondary, and the seal is good on the bucket, but possibly not on the lock...

If it isn't bubbling tomorrow, I may add more yeast.. is there a limit to the amount of yeast that you should use?

Thanks Ed~!!~

 

[F16WarBird]

I'm guessing you used dry yeast.

Without a starter, it generally takes longer for fermentation to begin.

Since it's the beginning of the fermentation, you can give the bucket a shake or two. The airlock will prevent O2 from being introduced.

If you don't see the airlock percolating after 4 days, then we can broach the subject of adding more yeast.

For future batches, I recommend a glass carboy for all fermentation. Glass gives you the added ability to see if anything is going on. I've had batches that didn't move the airlock hardly at all but when I checked visually, I could see that a hurricane was brewing.

 

[bbqncigars]

Sue:
The advantage in using wine yeasts is that they can survive higher alcohol levels, thus you can start with an extremely high gravity wort and end up with just a trace of sweetness (and a buttload of alcohol). The downside is that the fermentation will take a lot longer than your typical ale yeast. I've got a mostly extract recipe for porter that is very drinkable as soon as the yeast stops. Are you bottling, or using the 5 gallon soda kegs? I highly advise the latter, and use a counter pressure filler for the occasional bottling off of the keg. Cleaning a lot of bottles sucks!


Wayne

 

[Mama Bear]

Are you bottling, or using the 5 gallon soda kegs? I highly advise the latter, and use a counter pressure filler for the occasional bottling off of the keg. Cleaning a lot of bottles sucks!
Wayne

I hate not only cleaning the bottles, but storing them....! There is nothing more attractive then a bunch of empty beer bottles in my garage....

I have always wanted to use the soda cannisters, but am not sure how to fill and use them... is other equipment needed?

Thanks Wayne!

 

[F16WarBird]

Cornelius kegs can be found new or used.

Much like estate razors, a thorough cleaning and a used corny is good as new.

You'd need:

• Cornelius keg
• Beer tap
• CO2 cannister
• Connectors for the gas side & liquid side of the keg.
• Hose clamps
• 3/16 beer line

It's very easy to set up and maintain.

Rather than going with a counter pressure bottle filler, a growler is easier, unless you are giving away bottles.

I always planned ahead and saved part of a batch for bottling. The rest was kegged and force carbonated.

Check out: http://www.brewersforum.com/forums/index.php?sid=5cc55a9740d544bbf8dd49ec226c85f6