Help Me Pick Which Brush to Restore For First Timer

[AndroiDad75]

Everyone,

I received some brushes with another purchase, and I would like to get into restoring them. I wanted to get your opinion on which of the brushes should be my first try:

Left to Right: Rubberset B16; Plymouth; Fuller; Not Sure (Wood maybe?); Not Sure (looks like the top of another brush - check picture of bottom of brushes); Rubberset 504; Ever Ready C40; Ever Ready 200T

Looking at the sides


Bottom of brushes (1-4): Rubberset B16; Plymouth; Fuller; Not Sure (Wood maybe?)


Bottom of brushes (4-8): Not Sure (Wood maybe?); Not Sure (looks like the top of another brush - check picture of bottom of brushes); Rubberset 504; Ever Ready C40; Ever Ready 200T


Shots from above


Sorry about the bad pictures (camera phone).

Here are my goals. Since this will be the first time I will be restoring a brush, and I don't have a drill press, etc... I will be doing this will the tools I have at my disposal. I was hoping to pick the brush that could be my "learning" brush, so wouldn't want to start with the rarest/nicest/etc... brush first.

So I am asking all of you to rank the brushes that I would have in order of which to start first to which should be the last.

Thanks!!!!

 

[Kostas1]

Here's the order I'd do the restorations in...just my opinion.

 

[blzrfn]

You will learn the most from your first restoration, obviously, and are most likely to make a mistake on your first, also obvious. The brush that is incomplete (right-center) would be a good way to get a handle on drilling, sanding and polishing but I probably wouldn't bother putting a knot in it. Then the brush on the far left and two to the far right are cast plastic brushes that are easy to replace should you make a mistake. I would save the remaining four for your final restorations since they are not quite as common and to my eye will be the most worthy to display in your collection. Take it slow and easy and enjoy the process. If you find yourself getting frustrated, take a time-out and come back to it when you are refocused and re-energized. Remember it only takes one mistake to ruin a restoration and inevitably it will happen. Don't get discouraged and learn from others mistakes and any you may make yourself.

 

[AndroiDad75]

Thanks guys. That makes sense. I do understand about the cast plastic being the easiest to get, and that makes sense too. The far right one actually is in pretty close to perfect condition on the handle itself, so I was hesitant to do it early, but you're right in that I do see them pop up frequently, so I could replace it.

I am excited to make my own brush.

Is there a loft I should try to stick to? Primarily, right now at least, I am a bowl latherer. But I am interested in face lathering, so if there is a loft that would be good for both, maybe recommend that one. If not, give me a couple of lofts, and I will make a brush for each.

Thanks!!!!

 

[blzrfn]

For your first restore I would get a 20mm knot since it will require the least amount of boring to fit. For a 20 mm knot ideally the bore will have to be 22mm and it really depends on what kind of hair you choose as to the loft to set it at. For face lathering with a 20mm XH Finest TGN I would go around 48-50mm loft, whereas with a 20mm silvertip I would be happier around 42-44mm. For a combination brush stick to the higher sides of those ranges and for bowl lathering you could go up to 5mm taller but realize that you will be getting into the floppy zone.

edit - one more note about loft, the density of the knot has just as much relation to the backbone as the loft itself. So a denser knot set at the same loft as a less dense knot will have more backbone.

 

[AndroiDad75]

Thanks blzrfn. That really does help.

One more question, do those loft heights change as the knot size changes? For instance those work for 20mm knots, but do they change if I had a 24mm, or would it remain the same?

Thanks for all the great advice!!!

 

[mattdenicola]

One more question, do those loft heights change as the knot size changes? For instance those work for 20mm knots, but do they change if I had a 24mm, or would it remain the same?

Thanks for all the great advice!!!

In a word ... yes. You would likely change your loft for a larger knot. Loft is highly personal, and where you set it really relies on an interplay between the density of the hair in the knot, the inherent backbone of the hairs making up the knot, the size of the knot, the bore hole-knot size differential.

But first, I think the best place to start is deciding whether you prefer a stiff face latherer, a floppier bowl latherer, or a combo brush. This will help you decide which type of knot to buy, as well as a general guideline for where to set the loft. Face lathering generally needs a lower loft than bowl lathering, and then a combo brush would of course fit somewhere between the two. Once you've figured out how you will use the brush, and which knot you are buying, then the nitty gritty of 44mm vs 46mm vs 50mm can enter the discussion.

 

[GDCarrington]

Let me slightly change your course just for a moment. Many of these handles have been restored by members on this sub-forum. Go take a good look around and read some of the threads to see what others have done and how they have approached these handles. It will give you some better thoughts as to what knot and loft would go well with each brush before you start.

 

[blzrfn]

Thanks blzrfn. That really does help.

One more question, do those loft heights change as the knot size changes? For instance those work for 20mm knots, but do they change if I had a 24mm, or would it remain the same?

Thanks for all the great advice!!!

The girth of the knot would alter my recommendations slightly, but my knowledge comes only from my experience in playing with lofts and my preferences. What I enjoy may be considered floppy or too stiff by another.

Let me slightly change your course just for a moment. Many of these handles have been restored by members on this sub-forum. Go take a good look around and read some of the threads to see what others have done and how they have approached these handles. It will give you some better thoughts as to what knot and loft would go well with each brush before you start.

Sage advice from a restoration veteran. Wish I would have posted it first.

 

[AndroiDad75]

Let me slightly change your course just for a moment. Many of these handles have been restored by members on this sub-forum. Go take a good look around and read some of the threads to see what others have done and how they have approached these handles. It will give you some better thoughts as to what knot and loft would go well with each brush before you start.

Great advice!!!! I will gladly go looking for the threads.

Bummer is now I have to try and use the search function of this site - which has a lot to be desired (In my opinion).

Great advice though!!!!

 

[mattdenicola]

Bummer is now I have to try and use the search function of this site - which has a lot to be desired (In my opinion).

In Google, type "site:badgerandblade.com ever ready 200T" for example. The "site:" searching works for any site on the web, and once you use it, you'll never look back.

 

[Mike H]

This would be my order as too, well, maybe switch 7 & 8.

Before the knots, maybe you need one of these

 

[TheVez2]

I'm suprised some of you rated the Ever-Ready C40 so high. I'd use either the C40 or the Rubberset B16 for my first restore. Both handles are pretty common and cheap, and honestly not super handles. Perfect for learning and making mistakes on.

 

[AndroiDad75]

Good advice. I did look up some threads on restoring the C40 (thanks for the tips on searching) and it sounds like that may be a fairly easy restore. Although, I am not to sure about having to fill the handle and create a new shelf, but we will see.

 

[GDCarrington]

Good advice. I did look up some threads on restoring the C40 (thanks for the tips on searching) and it sounds like that may be a fairly easy restore. Although, I am not to sure about having to fill the handle and create a new shelf, but we will see.

I have done several of these. If there is a black cup and you are very careful you would not have to build a shelf, but would end up with a longer lofted brush.
If it does not have a back cup, the knot is attached at the top with plaster and you might be better off to build a shelf than to try to attach on the top and hope the epoxy sets in place quickly.

 

[Wulfster]

I just finished a Ruberset 504 (see my Father's Day post) and it was pretty easy. That said, it looks too nice to mess up, so I would save it until you have a few under your belt.

Also, I highly recommend picking up an adjustable Dremel. They make quick work of the knots, and they really aren't expensive. I found one of the rechargeable ones at an area pawn shop for 50% of retail.

Also, I had a real challenge removing the first synthetic knot I tried, so you may want to hold off on the Fuller too.