Reccs. for first brush restoration?

[kik595]

Hi all,

While browsing the local antique shop for interesting razors (found a nice navy-handled Schick G soon to be seen on the S/E board) - a few very beautiful shaving brushes were what initially caught my eye. Most of these were Ever-Ready and similar, all with very worn original knots and with rather high prices.

It did get me to thinking, however, that I might like to try a basic refurb on a vintage brush sometime soon-ish. This will be my first brush resto and although I understand the basics of it I'm open to suggestions from those with experience - what specifically to look for in a 'starter' vintage handle to work with, will epoxy (what I tentatively plan to use) be best for the brush to be re-knotted later or is there a better alternative, etc. Not looking for a step-by-step or to waste anyone's time, just open to thoughts on what to look for - shapes, brands, etc.

Thanks for any input guys!

 

[helicopter]

Hi all,

While browsing the local antique shop for interesting razors (found a nice navy-handled Schick G soon to be seen on the S/E board) - a few very beautiful shaving brushes were what initially caught my eye. Most of these were Ever-Ready and similar, all with very worn original knots and with rather high prices.

It did get me to thinking, however, that I might like to try a basic refurb on a vintage brush sometime soon-ish. This will be my first brush resto and although I understand the basics of it I'm open to suggestions from those with experience - what specifically to look for in a 'starter' vintage handle to work with, will epoxy (what I tentatively plan to use) be best for the brush to be re-knotted later or is there a better alternative, etc. Not looking for a step-by-step or to waste anyone's time, just open to thoughts on what to look for - shapes, brands, etc.

Thanks for any input guys!

You can glue a new knot in with 2 part epoxy or silicone glue. Most people prefer the stronger and more permanent epoxy. I prefer reversible silicone as it holds up reasonably well and you can pull the knot out without ruining the knot.

To remover the knot, depends what tools you have. First step is trim hairs with scissors or clippers. I used to use clippers but found scissors way more effective. Next step is to remove the glue. I made different sized vise blocks so I chuck them up in pine blocks and a drill press vise and rill them out with a forstner bit, then clean up with a sanding drum on a dremel. You can do similar on a lathe. You can also drill a bunch of small holes with a hand drill or dremel drill and then clean the whole thing with a dremel drum.

You can glue in cork slices to get your seat depth where you want.

Look for a vintage brush that isn't falling apart and has a style and size you like. Bonus points if it has aged from white to a butterscotch color.

In the US, you see a lot of made rite and ever ready brushes. I like re knotting those.

 

[kik595]

...

look for a vintage brush that isn't falling apart and has a style and size you like. Bonus points if it has aged from white to a butterscotch color.

In the US, you see a lot of made rite and ever ready brushes. I like re knotting those.

Thanks; that's the sort of thing I had figured would be best to start with, but wanted to make sure I hadn't missed something basic.

Considering giving it a try with this little Ever-Ready 69, always liked the classic *red & cream/white and the seller says no issues with the handle itself.

Also - good to know about the silicone option; I like the idea of being able to remove the knot cleanly if it's ever necessary.

 

[Tanuki]

I'm with @helicopter , epoxy is overkill.

When choosing a handle, a heavier, more solid handle usually will be a stronger handle. Some lighter, hollower handles will break easily during knot removal.

I see lots of handles in vintage malls. It is nice to inspect the handle you are going to give some time and effort. Around these parts 5 to 10 bucks will pay for a nice handle with a terrible, ruined knot. Of course, another vendor might be asking 20 to 30 bucks for something much worse. If you have time, shop around.

 

[helicopter]

I'm with @helicopter , epoxy is overkill.

When choosing a handle, a heavier, more solid handle usually will be a stronger handle. Some lighter, hollower handles will break easily during knot removal.

I see lots of handles in vintage malls. It is nice to inspect the handle you are going to give some time and effort. Around these parts 5 to 10 bucks will pay for a nice handle with a terrible, ruined knot. Of course, another vendor might be asking 20 to 30 bucks for something much worse. If you have time, shop around.

I agree with all if this, but I also like c40s. A fancier brush that has a badger knot might be worth more, but most mid century boars, I agree I don't like ti pay over $10 unless it is in the box and looks new or something.

 

[Guido75]

A third yes from me regarding silicone. Use it somewhat generously and the knot will sit just fine.

I haven’t had vintage handles to restore yet. I would imagine you need a Dremel or something to remove those old boar bits.

So far I have ventured more into wooden handles. I say I but it’s my dad handling the lathe.