Help me choose a finish for wood

[justino_14]

Hello,
First post in sometime. Wasn't exactly sure where to post this. I'm doing a DIY project for a razor stand which will be made out of wood. Just researching about all the ways you can finish wood is starting to make my head spin. I want a basic matte/satin finish which will offer at least a little bit of protection to the wood. I'm curious as to which type of finish is your favorite when it comes to finishing wood. I don't want a plasticy feel to the wood, just a smooth natural finish, that will bring out some of the natural beauty of the wood and offer some protection.
Thanks in advance!

 

[Clay S]

I have always like tung oil for finishing wood.

 

[CigarSmoka]

Any oil that polymerizes like linseed, walnut, tung, teak, or danish will bring out the grain and protect the wood while giving a warm, natural luster. Apply a generous coat, let sit 15 min then wipe off the excess. Do that 2 or 3 times than let sit for a day and buff it out with a soft cloth. Just make sure you’ve done a good job sanding beforehand because any finish will highlight imperfections.

You can use wipe on satin polyurethane over any of them as well, and it will add a bit more sheen and protection. Just be sure to lightly sand with very fine sandpaper in between coats because it doesn’t like to stick to itself. Too much sanding will show lines if your’re not careful. I’m not a big fan of poly but it’s an easy and quick finish that gives a good result, but honestly just an oil looks much better IMHO. Good luck and post some pics when it’s finished.

 

[ajkel64]

I am a fan of Danish oil, I have used it on some clock cases in the past with great results. (Well I think so) When you do get around to finishing the stand please show us some photo's of the finished stand. We loves photo's. Good luck.

 

[Clay S]

Any oil that polymerizes like linseed, walnut, tung, teak, or danish will bring out the grain and protect the wood while giving a warm, natural luster. Apply a generous coat, let sit 15 min then wipe off the excess. Do that 2 or 3 times than let sit for a day and buff it out with a soft cloth. Just make sure you’ve done a good job sanding beforehand because any finish will highlight imperfections.

You can use wipe on satin polyurethane over any of them as well, and it will add a bit more sheen and protection. Just be sure to lightly sand with very fine sandpaper in between coats because it doesn’t like to stick to itself. Too much sanding will show lines if your’re not careful. I’m not a big fan of poly but it’s an easy and quick finish that gives a good result, but honestly just an oil looks much better IMHO. Good luck and post some pics when it’s finished.

I generally buff between coats of oil with 0000 steel wool. Not sure why, granddad taught me to do it that way. I think it makes the end result have a higher sheen. And if something mars the finish down the road, just buff with steel wool and re-apply some oil.

 

[BigJ]

Any oil that polymerizes like linseed, walnut, tung, teak, or danish will bring out the grain and protect the wood while giving a warm, natural luster. Apply a generous coat, let sit 15 min then wipe off the excess. Do that 2 or 3 times than let sit for a day and buff it out with a soft cloth. Just make sure you’ve done a good job sanding beforehand because any finish will highlight imperfections.

You can use wipe on satin polyurethane over any of them as well, and it will add a bit more sheen and protection. Just be sure to lightly sand with very fine sandpaper in between coats because it doesn’t like to stick to itself. Too much sanding will show lines if your’re not careful. I’m not a big fan of poly but it’s an easy and quick finish that gives a good result, but honestly just an oil looks much better IMHO. Good luck and post some pics when it’s finished.

+1! Great summary!!

 

[Graydog]

Hello,
First post in sometime. Wasn't exactly sure where to post this. I'm doing a DIY project for a razor stand which will be made out of wood. Just researching about all the ways you can finish wood is starting to make my head spin. I want a basic matte/satin finish which will offer at least a little bit of protection to the wood. I'm curious as to which type of finish is your favorite when it comes to finishing wood. I don't want a plasticy feel to the wood, just a smooth natural finish, that will bring out some of the natural beauty of the wood and offer some protection.
Thanks in advance!

You did not mention the type of wood that you are using .
some wood is more suitable to brush making and holds up better with such a wet environment.
Also some wood reacts to some oils .

 

[stone and strop]

Linseed oil will give an amber hue to light colored wood that tung oil won't as much.
You can use a wipe on poly for more protection. It doesn't matter what sheen as you can go over it when finished to give it a matt look with 0000 steel wool then buff with wax. If not using a water base finish it will give the wood a nice appearance. Water based products are very clear and plasticy looking.

 

[Fat Larry]

I generally buff between coats of oil with 0000 steel wool. Not sure why, granddad taught me to do it that way. I think it makes the end result have a higher sheen. And if something mars the finish down the road, just buff with steel wool and re-apply some oil.

What do you mean by 0000 steel wool? Could you post a picture? I'm going to be finising some handles soon and am planning on doing them in Danish.

 

[Fat Larry]

Has anyone used any dyes? I'm interested in making some funky coloured wood.

 

[Clay S]

What do you mean by 0000 steel wool? Could you post a picture? I'm going to be finising some handles soon and am planning on doing them in Danish.

Audibly it will be "quad aught." Here is a link to the different grades: Grades and Applications

And a photo of 0000, 00, 0, & 1 and one of 3, 1, and 00

 

[CigarSmoka]

Has anyone used any dyes? I'm interested in making some funky coloured wood.

Sorry for the long delay. I’ve dyed wood many times and love the look, especially on a plain wood like maple. I use aniline dyes dissolved in a bit of warm water then add alcohol to the directed ratio. This help minimize it raising the grain. I’m slowly switching to prediluted alcohol spirit dyes for convenience and repeatability of color. Artisan Dyes from Craft Supplies USA are quite nice for the money. Just be aware that using any water or alcohol based sealers & finishes will pull some of the dye from the wood. Pictured are a couple pens I made from figured maple using a mix of very diluted dye wiped off immediately after applying, sanded after dry, then regular strength dye of a different color to highlight the figuring. One is thinned red orange w/regular strength orange, the other thinned black w/regular strength dark blue. Lighting wasn’t great for the blue one but the figuring is quite nice under normal light.

 

[davent]

Tru Oil is another finish to consider.
dave

 

[Fat Larry]

Sorry for the long delay. I’ve dyed wood many times and love the look, especially on a plain wood like maple. I use aniline dyes dissolved in a bit of warm water then add alcohol to the directed ratio. This help minimize it raising the grain. I’m slowly switching to prediluted alcohol spirit dyes for convenience and repeatability of color. Artisan Dyes from Craft Supplies USA are quite nice for the money. Just be aware that using any water or alcohol based sealers & finishes will pull some of the dye from the wood. Pictured are a couple pens I made from figured maple using a mix of very diluted dye wiped off immediately after applying, sanded after dry, then regular strength dye of a different color to highlight the figuring. One is thinned red orange w/regular strength orange, the other thinned black w/regular strength dark blue. Lighting wasn’t great for the blue one but the figuring is quite nice under normal light.

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Your pens are beautiful.

I will keep your techniques in mind.

I read that acrylic water colours can work and was thinking to do those with a CA finish. Have you tried that?

 

[CigarSmoka]

Your pens are beautiful.

I will keep your techniques in mind.

I read that acrylic water colours can work and was thinking to do those with a CA finish. Have you tried that?

Thank you. I haven’t tried it myself but see no reason why it wouldn’t work. Just make sure the water colors are completely dry. The slightest amount of water will cause the CA to get foggy.

 

[Fat Larry]

Thank you. I haven’t tried it myself but see no reason why it wouldn’t work. Just make sure the water colors are completely dry. The slightest amount of water will cause the CA to get foggy.

Good to know thanks. Is that true of other dyes and CA glue? I i haven't used it before as a finish so more knowlege is good to have.

 

[Fat Larry]

Sorry for the long delay. I’ve dyed wood many times and love the look, especially on a plain wood like maple. I use aniline dyes dissolved in a bit of warm water then add alcohol to the directed ratio. This help minimize it raising the grain.

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Could you clarify what you mean by "raise the grain"?

 

[davent]

Wetting with water, alcohol(?) a smooth unfinished piece of wood will raise wood fibers up away from the surface which then requires resanding to restore a smooth surface.

dave

 

[mr_houston]

I like Tru Oil as well. It was developed for gun stocks.

FYI, I hear that CA is challenging to do well.

 

[Fat Larry]

Wetting with water, alcohol(?) a smooth unfinished piece of wood will raise wood fibers up away from the surface which then requires resanding to restore a smooth surface.

dave

Thanks, would it be more practical to dye before doing final sanding then?