Gem/Ever Ready/Star Aggression chart

[auk1124]

Someone who is familiar with all or most of the Gem/ER/Star models, please give me your opinion on levels of aggression, with a 1912 as a baseline. I'm well acquainted with 1912 models and the ER 1924, but the later variants of Gems are a mystery to me.

I'm using my Damaskeene and ER 1924 exclusively right now, but sometimes I wish I had a tad more aggression. If someone could point me toward the more aggresive end of the Gem family I'd appreciate it.

 

[HoosierTrooper]

Keeping in mind the YMMV rule and based on my experience, the open comb and Clog-pruf Micromatic, as well as the 1914 ER, are more aggressive than the '12 and '24. Everything starting with the Micromatic Flying Wing and later are less aggressive.

 

[MacDaddy]

Keeping in mind the YMMV rule and based on my experience, the open comb and Clog-pruf Micromatic, as well as the 1914 ER, are more aggressive than the '12 and '24. Everything starting with the Micromatic Flying Wing and later are less aggressive.

I'd agree with Tom's assessment here. I know everyone's always on about the OCMM being crazy aggressive, but for me at least the Clog-pruf and the 1914 feel more aggressive. If you're looking to just make one step up from the 1912 I'd give the OCMM a look see. My personal favorite, though is the Gem Junior Bar, which is a little harder to come by but I'd put between the 1912 and the OCMM.

 

[kcb5150]

I find the OCMM quite mellow with a slightly used SS blade in it. I think a lot of guys just panic when they can feel the blade. I find the 24 far worse bc it stinks never having an absolute idea of what the blade is exactly doing due to the bulk of it all. My gem junior 1912 is aggressive, but I've never cut myself with it. G Bar is extremely mild. G bar is probably the only razor I can shave on consecutive days with provided I never go for bbs. I think a 1914 may be the ticket for you as it is damn aggressive.

 

[kcb5150]

The most overlooked thing about the OCMM is that I think it has far and away the most compact head of any conventional se that takes the spined blade. It is an engineering masterpiece. The only thing they bungled was not putting a more efficient system for lather/hair in the blade tray (addressed with clog pruf).

 

[Sledgehammer39]

Keeping in mind the YMMV rule and based on my experience, the open comb and Clog-pruf Micromatic, as well as the 1914 ER, are more aggressive than the '12 and '24. Everything starting with the Micromatic Flying Wing and later are less aggressive.

+1

 

[auk1124]

Thanks fellas, an OCMM and a Clog Pruf are on order. Will keep my eyes open for a user grade 1914 as well.

 

[woodfluter]

Ahh, Gurnall started an equivalent thread about the same time.
OK, I'll repeat my two bits:
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Well, this is bound to be an interesting can of worms.
But glad you raised the question.
Most will probably disagree...see the last line for critical information.

Least to most "aggressive" for me:

Gem 1912 (incl. "Jr" or Star or Treet equivalents, and those with "Parade" handle).
All Micromatics - open comb, Clog-Pruf, flying wing (pretty much the same for me).
Ever-Ready 1950s era British 1912 pattern.
Ever-Ready 1914 "Little Lather Catcher".
Gem "Damaskeene" 1912 patent, version made 1912-1919.

The latter is easily the most unforgiving safety razor of any sort I've encountered.

Now the critical caveat:
I shave with a low angle, typically head flat against the face and raised the minimum amount to enable cutting *with* moderate pressure (not zero pressure!) but freely experiment with steeper angles as well. And my stubble is coarse and fast-growing.
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Adding to the above, these are all great razors that have stood the test of time. Folks here (including me) have gotten fine results from each of them. The perceived performance depends a lot on your particular shaving technique and beard. And that might change with time as your technique evolves. The classic "YMMV".