First GEMs Clarification?

[steelwindmachine]

Bought these on the eB for my first foray into GEM type razors along with 10x GEM Personna Stainless Coated blades. $37 shipped for the pair. I tried to select the best examples available at this price point without having to buy "vintage razor lots" for more money to wind up with more razors than I want to try or need.

I had originally started by looking for a GEM 1912 Featherlight, but decided I wanted to go a little more "modern" with these versions due to their more compact designs and I have 14 years DE shaving under my chin with everything from the 2011 R41, several slants to a kamisori AC - I think I can handle these

There are so many of these all over eB, Facebook marketplace, Etsy and on here (usually in lots), that it was a bit vexing trying to decide which one(s) to buy. Heck, there is someone on Fb marketplace selling what looked like a new-in-box GEM Bullet tip handled razor for $10 who wouldn't ship and didn't have transport and would have cost me more in gas in tolls to go pick it up =\ They're just everywhere and cheap to seemingly inappropriately expensive. Picking felt harder than it should have been.

I was balancing the price vs. the item's appearance in so far as level of cleanable dirtiness, operability, unbent comb teeth, and unbent head bits. I was willing to accept some dinge for a bit less cost. Though it seems there are still offerings out there for darn near pristine pieces at single digit prices before shipping.

I think the Micromatic is a late model. Probably closer to 1941 than to the early thirties due to the inclusion of the blade angle bumps?




The other is a Ever-Ready of Brooklyn, NY - but am not 100% sure of type or potential age:


I intend to wash them in boiling water with dish soap. Scrub with a nylon brush. Maybe use Scrubbing Bubbles and maybe use a Dremel buffing wheel with some metal polish to bring whatever sparkle back.

 

[Alum Ladd]

Bought these on the eB for my first foray into GEM type razors along with 10x GEM Personna Stainless Coated blades. $37 shipped for the pair. I tried to select the best examples available at this price point without having to buy "vintage razor lots" for more money to wind up with more razors than I want to try or need.

I had originally started by looking for a GEM 1912 Featherlight, but decided I wanted to go a little more "modern" with these versions due to their more compact designs and I have 14 years DE shaving under my chin with everything from the 2011 R41, several slants to a kamisori AC - I think I can handle these

There are so many of these all over eB, Facebook marketplace, Etsy and on here (usually in lots), that it was a bit vexing trying to decide which one(s) to buy. Heck, there is someone on Fb marketplace selling what looked like a new-in-box GEM Bullet tip handled razor for $10 who wouldn't ship and didn't have transport and would have cost me more in gas in tolls to go pick it up =\ They're just everywhere and cheap to seemingly inappropriately expensive. Picking felt harder than it should have been.

I was balancing the price vs. the item's appearance in so far as level of cleanable dirtiness, operability, unbent comb teeth, and unbent head bits. I was willing to accept some dinge for a bit less cost. Though it seems there are still offerings out there for darn near pristine pieces at single digit prices before shipping.

I think the Micromatic is a late model. Probably closer to 1941 than to the early thirties due to the inclusion of the blade angle bumps?

View attachment 1631896View attachment 1631897


The other is a Ever-Ready of Brooklyn, NY - but am not 100% sure of type or potential age:
View attachment 1631892View attachment 1631893View attachment 1631894View attachment 1631895

I intend to wash them in boiling water with dish soap. Scrub with a nylon brush. Maybe use Scrubbing Bubbles and maybe use a Dremel buffing wheel with some metal polish to bring whatever sparkle back.

The first one is a Micromatic open comb. I think they were made from 1951.

The second is a classic 1912. These were made for decades so it's hard to pin date down. Yours is probably late 30's-early 50's.

The cleaning regime sounds good. Just don't boil them, or you will end up with SE's in a nice tactical black!

 

[steelwindmachine]

@Alum Ladd - thanks! I am going to heat up tap water in a kettle to boiling and then pour it into a tray with a tablespoon-ish of dish soap and the razor and then let it sit until cool. That should be fine, right?

 

[Alum Ladd]

@Alum Ladd - thanks! I am going to heat up tap water in a kettle to boiling and then pour it into a tray with a tablespoon-ish of dish soap and the razor and then let it sit until cool. That should be fine, right?

Yep sounds fine. You could also get a tub of hot water with some dish washing liquid and let them soak till water becomes cool, that may help to release old gunk in the mechanisms. Then a scrub under running hot water works well.

Nice pieces, good luck!

Btw, I think the Micromatic oc is more aggressive than the 1912.

 

[steelwindmachine]

@Alum Ladd - perfect!

Yeah, based on my research and helpful chart from @Ron R, it does appear its one of the most aggressive of these types of vintage razors. Given that, I'm very interested to see how it fairs against my R41 experience.

 

[thombrogan]

The Ever-Ready looks like a 1924 “Shovel-Head.” They’re loud babies.

The Micromatic Open Comb is a very wonderful razor. I’ll echo the sentiments of @Alum Ladd that most 1912 style razors offer a gentler and more forgiving shave. At the same time, if your Micromatic is ever feeling “aggressive,” go shallower and use less pressure.

Please enjoy your new toys and this rabbit hole, @steelwindmachine

 

[HoosierTrooper]

The Micromatic hit the market around 1930, not 1951. The second one is known as the “1924” because supposedly they were first seen in the Sears catalog that year, and someone gave them the unfortunate nickname “Shovelhead” sometime.They did not have an official model name given to them by ASR.

Also there is no model know as the “1912 Featherlight”. There is the 1912, called that because of its patent date stamped on the frame and the “Feather Weight”, which is the actual name given to the model by ASR which showed up in 1949-1950.

 

[Alum Ladd]

The Micromatic hit the market around 1930, not 1951.

Ah Ok I misread Ron's @Ron R 's handwritten label on his excellent SE aggression guide. I thought it said 1931 but eventually went with my own wrong guess of 1951 due to it's modernistic style.

 

[HoosierTrooper]

Ah Ok I misread Ron's @Ron R 's handwritten label on his excellent SE aggression guide. I thought it said 1931 but eventually went with my own wrong guess of 1951 due to it's modernistic style.

The open comb was the first, the second model was the Clog-pruf introduced around 1941 and the final Micromatic was the closed comb Flying Wing introduced around 1947. Interesting that the Clog-pruf is the only one with the model name given to it by ASR actually stamped inside the frame.

 

[StuMcB]

I always found the shovel head to give great close and easy shaves. Well Done on the collection

 

[Whiterook]

Here is the dating chart.

American Safety Razor Dating Chart - Gem, Ever Ready, Kampfe Star

This "gem" (pun intended) is taken directly from the 1947 World Series Official program. Maybe the first Flying Wing advertisement ever: Another 1947 funny ad: Earliest I find is March 1947. The big rollout is beginning of April (start of baseball season :-) )

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[steelwindmachine]

got the Micromatic in hand yesterday, soaked in boiled water with dish soap for a few minutes, wiped it down and it's in pretty good shape. Pretty amazing how the mechanism has held up after ~90 years. It feels very satisfying to twist open and closed.

I have no insight into the individual history of this specific razor, but it's solid, straight and the mechanism is smooth. Finish is pretty good with no signs of brassing. I may try some polishing, but it's in otherwise pretty great shape. Am looking forward to putting it to my face after the blades arrive.

Now just awaiting the arrival of the Ever-Ready "1924" as the mild contender.

 

[Ron R]

got the Micromatic in hand yesterday, soaked in boiled water with dish soap for a few minutes, wiped it down and it's in pretty good shape. Pretty amazing how the mechanism has held up after ~90 years. It feels very satisfying to twist open and closed.

I have no insight into the individual history of this specific razor, but it's solid, straight and the mechanism is smooth. Finish is pretty good with no signs of brassing. I may try some polishing, but it's in otherwise pretty great shape. Am looking forward to putting it to my face after the blades arrive.

Now just awaiting the arrival of the Ever-Ready "1924" as the mild contender.

Remember it is based off a straight razor concept but it has safety bar and cap protects the operator better than a straight razor.
It takes a few shaves to dial them in.

Have some great shaves!

 

[steelwindmachine]

"1924" arrived today. Will get it's soapy boiling bath tonight. Hopefully blades will show up before this weekend so I can start experiments.

GEMs vs. modern slants (Fatip Storto Original and Razorock Superslant L2/L3)

 

[steelwindmachine]

here they are. probably made in the millions nearly a century ago and still finely functional for taking hair off…



now just waiting on the blades so i can experience historic shaving!

 

[steelwindmachine]

put the 1924 to work this morning with a GEM Personna coated blade.

first impressions are very good! despite the angle difference from a DE, my technique has developed to where i’m adjusting more based on blade feel and some sound. with that in mind, the blade sound through the razor head was a great aid to assessing the stubble.

i started with the large flat of the top of the head against my skin and then dropped the handle down until i felt the blade. i let the weight of the razor head do the work.

i will say that this initial experience conjured the same slight trepidation and reminder of how insanely sharp the blades are that my first use of a Feather blade inspired years ago. Holy heck, these GEM blades are to be respected!

i used Shave Nation oil for this go and with two days growth after a fanatic shave from my Fatip Storto Original with a Astra, the GEM effectively cleaned up in one pass.

The second pass was an attempt to clean up some spots that i was sorting out how to maneuver the razor into trouble spots. Under the nose, corner of mouth, under the chin.

So, in summation; impressive, promising, humbling and historic. Did get some razor burn on one side, but it’s all good for a first time. The alum block helped clear up some minor weepers.

My slant trials has left two contenders against the GEMs. The Storto Original and a Razorock Superslant with L2++ and L3 (showed up today) plates.

Will the GEMs send the slants packing or will the Fatip send the Superslant out the door?

I’ll see, but in the meantime these razors have been providing the best results with the least amount of work or facial trauma compared to any other razors i’ve had in the last 14 years.

 

[Alum Ladd]

put the 1924 to work this morning with a GEM Personna coated blade.

first impressions are very good! despite the angle difference from a DE, my technique has developed to where i’m adjusting more based on blade feel and some sound. with that in mind, the blade sound through the razor head was a great aid to assessing the stubble.

i started with the large flat of the top of the head against my skin and then dropped the handle down until i felt the blade. i let the weight of the razor head do the work.

i will say that this initial experience conjured the same slight trepidation and reminder of how insanely sharp the blades are that my first use of a Feather blade inspired years ago. Holy heck, these GEM blades are to be respected!

i used Shave Nation oil for this go and with two days growth after a fanatic shave from my Fatip Storto Original with a Astra, the GEM effectively cleaned up in one pass.

The second pass was an attempt to clean up some spots that i was sorting out how to maneuver the razor intoand trouble spots. Under the nose, corner of mouth, under the chin.

So, in summation; impressive, promising, humbling and historic.

My slant trials has left two contenders against the GEMs. The Storto Original and a Razorock Superslant with L2++ and L3 (showed up today) plates.

Will the GEMs send the slants packing or will the Fatip send the Superslant out the door?

I’ll see, but in the meantime these razors has been providing the best results with the least amount of work or facial trauma compared to any other razors i’ve had in the last 14 years.

Excellent initial impression writeup @steelwindmachine!

Great that you are trying a different platform and vintage too.

 

[steelwindmachine]

thanks! i’m holding the Micromatic aside until i get another shave or three on the 1924. Just getting my GEM legs sorted before i make another change.

next shave will be the Superslant L3.

 

[cpool222]

thanks! i’m holding the Micromatic aside until i get another shave or three on the 1924. Just getting my GEM legs sorted before i make another change.

next shave will be the Superslant L3.

If the Micromatic is the open-comb, it's the most aggressive of the more modern GEMs, as aggressive as the old lather-catchers in my opinion. You definitely want to use the "Shallow Technique" on RonR's picture above if it's the open-comb version.

 

[steelwindmachine]

@cpool222 - Yes, I read Ron's post, took note of his illustrative image, and is precisely why I started with the 1924 and not my open comb Micromatic. I read and followed all advice since this is an entirely new shaving system to me.