My new tripod arrived this week, and so I decided to see if my low light landscapes would turn out any better with a stable support. I think they did:
First images working from a tripod
- Thread starter BRuhling
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Very nice work, Bill. Having stable support like that allows you to think in completely different ways. Enjoy!
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How do I block the mirror? I have a remote control and used it.
+1
Not being there, its a hard call, but maybe work some on the composition.
The last one has a lot of dark - it looks like to the right there are more lights. Might be a more interesting shot to include the lights.
Again not there so I don't know what the right actually looks like.
Don't know your camera, but there should be a mirror lock capability. Check you manual.
By blocking the mirror, I think Mr. Dentini means to block off the viewfinder so light doesn't enter there and spoil the light meter reading. However, I recommend doing things in manual anyway.
Just remember, Ansel Adams always used a tripod. Even in broad daylight.
I also agree that the photos are still a bit dark. The pattern in the sky of the second photo is a bit odd. Compositionally - that's something I think most people need to work on. I've been photographing most of my life, do it professionally since '98, and I still work on my composition, so don't take that as a major slam, but more as a reminder to keep it in the forefront of your mind. Pre-visualize how you want the scene to look on your print (or everyone's monitor), and then work to achieving that vision.
Good luck!
Just remember, Ansel Adams always used a tripod. Even in broad daylight.
I also agree that the photos are still a bit dark. The pattern in the sky of the second photo is a bit odd. Compositionally - that's something I think most people need to work on. I've been photographing most of my life, do it professionally since '98, and I still work on my composition, so don't take that as a major slam, but more as a reminder to keep it in the forefront of your mind. Pre-visualize how you want the scene to look on your print (or everyone's monitor), and then work to achieving that vision.
Good luck!
No, not the viewfinder, there's an option in most digital reflex cameras to block the mirror at the first shutter click, then you actually take the shot at the second click, and then the mirror releases. If you shoot film I think that is not doable. I said that because I see the photos are not deep sharp like a razor blade 
Which camera is yours?
Which camera is yours?
There's another option: The Delayed Release mode takes the photo 2 seconds after the shutter release is fired. This gives time for the mirror slap and other disturbances to settle out.
See p. 35 and 37 of the D5100 Reference Manual.
Mirror slap isn't and issue for very short (less than 1/30th seconds) or very long (more than a minute) in most tests I've seen, and can also be lessened by doing things like putting your hand over the camera while it's on the tripod to help dampen the vibration.
While we're at it: a lot of newbies are tempted to stop way down to get maximum depth of field, and longer exposures. Small apertures can lead to blurriness due to diffraction, and long exposures exacerbate grain. Don't boost the ISO, though. Keep the ISO at 200 (the sensor's native sensitivity) and go from there. For the D5100, apertures of f/11 or smaller (that is, higher f/number) will have sharpness limited by diffraction, so don't stop down past f/8. f/8 at ISO 200 at whatever exposure time is necessary would be how I would photograph with that camera.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
See p. 35 and 37 of the D5100 Reference Manual.
Mirror slap isn't and issue for very short (less than 1/30th seconds) or very long (more than a minute) in most tests I've seen, and can also be lessened by doing things like putting your hand over the camera while it's on the tripod to help dampen the vibration.
While we're at it: a lot of newbies are tempted to stop way down to get maximum depth of field, and longer exposures. Small apertures can lead to blurriness due to diffraction, and long exposures exacerbate grain. Don't boost the ISO, though. Keep the ISO at 200 (the sensor's native sensitivity) and go from there. For the D5100, apertures of f/11 or smaller (that is, higher f/number) will have sharpness limited by diffraction, so don't stop down past f/8. f/8 at ISO 200 at whatever exposure time is necessary would be how I would photograph with that camera.
Hope this helps, and good luck!
Nice photos. I took a couple of close-up shots the other day and wish I had a tripod instead of contorting and leaning against stuff. I actually managed to get a 6 second exposure to come out pretty sharp! Took about 4-5 tries though.
Does mirror lock up really make a noticeable difference if you're using a remote and a quality, stable tripod? I've heard and read arguments both ways.
As a side note this fellow here seems to think it doesn't make much if any noticeable difference.
http://improvephotography.com/2278/12-photography-myths-every-photographer-should-know/
Does mirror lock up really make a noticeable difference if you're using a remote and a quality, stable tripod? I've heard and read arguments both ways.
As a side note this fellow here seems to think it doesn't make much if any noticeable difference.
http://improvephotography.com/2278/12-photography-myths-every-photographer-should-know/
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- #12
Thank you for the helpful information. I'm just learning my camera, and photography for that matter, so any constructive advice is always greatly appreciated!
Those are nice shots...what were your manual aperture settings?
"A good picture is equivalent to a good deed." Vincent Van Gogh
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- #14
All were shot on a D5100 with a 24-70mm lens.
The Bridge was at 62mm, ISO 100, f/8, 8.0 Seconds
The Townhouses were at 70mm, ISO 100, f/4.5, 16.0 Seconds
The landscape at 35mm, ISO 100, f/9.0, and for some reason the shutter time did not record (I know it was on a bulb setting)...
The Bridge was at 62mm, ISO 100, f/8, 8.0 Seconds
The Townhouses were at 70mm, ISO 100, f/4.5, 16.0 Seconds
The landscape at 35mm, ISO 100, f/9.0, and for some reason the shutter time did not record (I know it was on a bulb setting)...
Those are nice shots...what were your manual aperture settings?
"A good picture is equivalent to a good deed." Vincent Van Gogh
Well, I totally disagree with that guy. And he doesn't even print his images. In my opinion, locking the mirror when shooting long exposures makes a huge difference.
I like the pictures. The middle one is kind of eery, especially in that homey border. Everything's slightly askew, and artificial looking. It's got me wondering what's going on inside the house. Something not quite right.
Or maybe I just watch too many horror and detective movies.
Or maybe I just watch too many horror and detective movies.
Nice pictures as always. I really do prefer to use my tripod whenever possible. Besides, it makes one look more professional. I do need to eventually pick up a remote for y D90
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- #19
He was also taking pictures with a large format view camera and using very low ISO film. I think it would be nearly impossible to hand hold a monorail camera!
