Finger placement

[Whisky]

Most of the shooting instruction that I’ve had over the years has stressed using the pad of your finger when shooting a light SA/striker pistol and the 1st joint when when shooting a DA revolver and sometimes a DA/SA pistol.

With my SA-35 I’ve found that despite its good SA trigger I shoot much more accurately using the 1st joint on the trigger.

I’m just curious to see where others fall in the trigger finger spectrum.

 

[nortac]

With a semi -auto I strive for the pad, but DA with a revolver it's the first joint. Usually.

 

[Rob72]

Curvaceous triggers (BHP, DA revos, non-enabled Sigs), 1st joint. Flat triggers- pad. I'm a full convert to the flat triggers, they generally allow much more trigger sensitivity and less slapping, or at least less slapping that pulls port or starboard.

 

[jar_]

And then there is my RIA Baby Rock.

The trigger is so close that I need to use the second joint or it beats my finger against the trigger guard.

But it's so cute!

 

[OkieStubble]

My Glocks? Pad
My 1911? Pad
My SP101? Joint
My LCPII is so small, while it probably should be the pad, my trigger finger sticks out away from the frame and trigger guard, it feels like I’m not holding that little pistol tight enough; so I use the joint which seems to pull my hand closer to the frame for a better grip?

If this makes any sense?

 

[Whisky]

Curvaceous triggers (BHP, DA revos, non-enabled Sigs), 1st joint. Flat triggers- pad. I'm a full convert to the flat triggers, they generally allow much more trigger sensitivity and less slapping, or at least less slapping that pulls port or starboard.

This may explain why I use the 1st joint on my SA-35, it definitely has a curvaceous trigger. My 1911’s don’t have a flat triggers, but they’re much less curvaceous than the BPH. I’ve had to adapt my grip for the SA-35 to keep the web of my hand from getting repeatedly smacked by the hammer this is when I realized I do better with the 1st joint. I’m worried though that it’s going to screw up the way I grip my 1911s. Guess I’ll just have to go to the range and find out.

 

[alpster]

Pad for all but double action revolvers. First joint for DA wheel guns.

 

[DesertIguana]

I am First Finger Tip Pad, on everything.

 

[Rob72]

This may explain why I use the 1st joint on my SA-35, it definitely has a curvaceous trigger. My 1911’s don’t have a flat triggers, but they’re much less curvaceous than the BPH. I’ve had to adapt my grip for the SA-35 to keep the web of my hand from getting repeatedly smacked by the hammer this is when I realized I do better with the 1st joint. I’m worried though that it’s going to screw up the way I grip my 1911s. Guess I’ll just have to go to the range and find out.

Yeah, that's why I'm saving for the Girsan match. I like the SA fit & finish more, but if it's that bad, I'll strip & blast the Match, after fitting & profiling the C&S ambi-safety, the cleaner version of which SA is using. You can't beat the G10 grips, flat trigger and beavertail for the price.

 

[Whisky]

Yeah, that's why I'm saving for the Girsan match. I like the SA fit & finish more, but if it's that bad, I'll strip & blast the Match, after fitting & profiling the C&S ambi-safety, the cleaner version of which SA is using. You can't beat the G10 grips, flat trigger and beavertail for the price.

I’ve considered sending my SA somewhere to have a beavertail installed. My grip is so high from shooting 1911s for so long that I have a hard time enjoying range sessions with the SA. Either the web of my hand is getting slapped or my grip feels unnatural.

 

[mikhou]

I'm no great pistol shot so I'm still tinkering with technique, but I find that by using the joint on my Taurus GX4 that I have more strength in the pull and can be more smooth and less likely to pull down and to the right (left-handed shooter here) and more likely to pull straight back. But again, I'm still tinkering.

 

[jar_]

I’ve considered sending my SA somewhere to have a beavertail installed. My grip is so high from shooting 1911s for so long that I have a hard time enjoying range sessions with the SA. Either the web of my hand is getting slapped or my grip feels unnatural.

Ran about fifty rounds of 230 ball through my Tisas Tanker 1911 yesterday at 15 yards indoors. Pulled one near the end into the 7 ring because I was getting tired and hand hurt. The mark is from the grip safety and not the hammer though. Hurts but hasn't broken the skin. Will likely get a Beavertail installed someday. It's interesting that the full size Tisas with the same safety doesn't beat me up as much, likely just from more weight forward.

 

[dojpros]

I am right handed. I shoot Glock G19 or bigger pistols almost exclusively.

I strive for first pad so my right “trigger finger bicep” does not push in on the right side of the frame causing me to shank longer shots to the left.

Credit to Tom Givens for the term “trigger finger bicep” as that is where I heard it first.

 

[Borderboss]

With an SA auto, I use the pad of my finger. With a DA revolver or DA/SA auto, I use the first joint of my finger.

 

[eightysixCJ]

When I started, shooting bullseye/precision pistol most guys recommended using the first joint as there was better control/less cushion. Focusing on finger placement and trigger squeeze pressure as part of aiming I switched to the pad and worked on consistent placement on the trigger. So now it’s all pad for me. I did switch to a shorter trigger on my 1911 so the placement worked with my aiming.

Tom