Fatboy Blade Gap / Profile Problem

[Waldo_vt]

Hello all -

I am having a problem with a F2 Fatboy that I picked up at a shop the other day. The blade gaps appear to be good and are approximately correct as I move the adjustment ring up/down. My main problem with the razor is that when the dial is set from 1 to 4 the blade is essentially parallel to the blade guard / bottom plate (when you look at the blade from the ends of the razor the blade is basically flat) which give a harsh shave. When the dial is set from 5-9 the blade "curves" (looking at the blade from the ends shows a nice curve - similar to my super adjustable) and the edge is now at an angle.

Any ideas on how to fix this? If possible I will post picts tomorrow...

Thanks!
Steve

 

[BBrad]

It sounds like your razor's adjustment dial is out of calibration. When set at 1, the four fingers of the adjustment tang should be sticking up through the base plate by about .022" - enough for your eyes to see it. If the fingers are below the top surface of the base plate, the razor is out of calibration, or "under-clocked".

To fix this, open the doors and turn the dial to 9. Using a bent paper clip or other small pointed item, gently press in on the index spring right above the number 9, and gently turn the dial past 9 and back around to 1. Your razor should then be properly calibrated.

Pics of the base plate with adjuster set on 1 will tell us everything.

 

[kcb5150]

It's hard to say without pics. I've found a lot of these adj gillettes need a nudge here or there to be right.

 

[Waldo_vt]

As promised here are the picts:

First one is with the dial set at 1 - Second is with the dial set at 5

 

[Waldo_vt]

It sounds like your razor's adjustment dial is out of calibration. When set at 1, the four fingers of the adjustment tang should be sticking up through the base plate by about .022"

I have noticed that when the dial is between 1 & 4 I can push the adjustment tang up higher "into" the blade. When the dial is between 5 and 9 there is no play in the tang... Is this what you are talking about?

Thanks!
Steve

 

[wscottb7862]

My FB has a bow at 1 also..It isn't flat like that...

 

[BBrad]

I could tell better with a picture of the base plate - doors open, no blade.

But, yes, if the tang is loose when set on 1 with a blade loaded you are under clocked. Even at the lower settings, the fingers have to push through the base plate in order to flex the blade into shaving position. The more the fingers stick through (higher settings) the greater the blade gap.

 

[Copierguy]

Brad is correct you could be underclocked. Also when you tighten the TTO knob, after you feel the doors contact the blade and plate, turn the knob another 1/4 turn to lock the blade in place. This will also put a bow in the blade.

 

[Waldo_vt]

It sounds like your razor's adjustment dial is out of calibration. When set at 1, the four fingers of the adjustment tang should be sticking up through the base plate by about .022" - enough for your eyes to see it. If the fingers are below the top surface of the base plate, the razor is out of calibration, or "under-clocked".

To fix this, open the doors and turn the dial to 9. Using a bent paper clip or other small pointed item, gently press in on the index spring right above the number 9, and gently turn the dial past 9 and back around to 1. Your razor should then be properly calibrated

Hmm... When I tried this fix the it initiall appears to work but then when I increase the dial the tang bottoms out on the base plate when I get to the number "7" and thus cannot go higher to 8 or 9...

Steve

 

[Waldo_vt]

Brad is correct you could be underclocked. Also when you tighten the TTO knob, after you feel the doors contact the blade and plate, turn the knob another 1/4 turn to lock the blade in place. This will also put a bow in the blade.

About the 1/4 turn - When the doors close the main knob (very bottom one - not the 1-9 knob) does not turn any further. There is no 1/4 turn... Is this a problem?

Thanks!
Steve

 

[Waldo_vt]

I could tell better with a picture of the base plate - doors open, no blade.

As requested...

 

[BBrad]

Ok . . . I see from the pics that your adjustment calibration was correct to begin with. Sorry to have lead you down that path . . .

The next thing, and now that you mention the lack of lockdown . . . your compression spring is not compressing. The razor needs to tighten down to flex the blade, and is not able to do so at the lower adjustment settings.

Because of the razor's adjustability, the length of the center rod needs to change in order to properly tighten the blade through the range of adjustments. This is accomplished by using a compression spring as part of the TTO/center rod assembly. At the end of the tightening process, the spring compresses to take up the final amount of slack, which produces what we feel as a "quarter-turn" lockdown.

Over time, with soap scum, mineral deposits, and who knows what, the spring can fill with gunk and harden, preventing compression. Since most people don't change their adjustment, when the spring stops working the razor still works but only at that adjustment setting.

The best fix is to soak the razor in very hot (almost boiling) water with dish soap added. It may take several water changes and time to soften the gunk. Work the TTO, and try to turn the knob just a little more once resistance is felt. A normally-working adjustable will have a noticeable spring action felt when fully tightened.

Sorry again for giving wrong advice . . . a picture is worth a thousand words!

 

[Waldo_vt]

Ok . . . I see from the pics that your adjustment calibration was correct to begin with. Sorry to have lead you down that path . . .

The next thing, and now that you mention the lack of lockdown . . . your compression spring is not compressing. The razor needs to tighten down to flex the blade, and is not able to do so at the lower adjustment settings.

Because of the razor's adjustability, the length of the center rod needs to change in order to properly tighten the blade through the range of adjustments. This is accomplished by using a compression spring as part of the TTO/center rod assembly. At the end of the tightening process, the spring compresses to take up the final amount of slack, which produces what we feel as a "quarter-turn" lockdown.

Over time, with soap scum, mineral deposits, and who knows what, the spring can fill with gunk and harden, preventing compression. Since most people don't change their adjustment, when the spring stops working the razor still works but only at that adjustment setting.

The best fix is to soak the razor in very hot (almost boiling) water with dish soap added. It may take several water changes and time to soften the gunk. Work the TTO, and try to turn the knob just a little more once resistance is felt. A normally-working adjustable will have a noticeable spring action felt when fully tightened.

Sorry again for giving wrong advice . . . a picture is worth a thousand words!

Ok will try - I did give the razor a few soakings in Very Hot water with Baking Soda to remove the "green" growth - Will repeat with soap. Do you think that I should just take the razor apart and then clean out the spring?

Thanks
Steve

 

[Copierguy]

About the 1/4 turn - When the doors close the main knob (very bottom one - not the 1-9 knob) does not turn any further. There is no 1/4 turn... Is this a problem?

Thanks!
Steve

I think you said your razor is a F-2, which I believe does not disassemble as easily as earlier years. So as Brad suggests, soaking to flush things out may be your best shot. Give it time and you may be rewarded.

 

[BBrad]

With the crimped end cap, taking it apart is not recommended unless soaking does not work. Copierguy is right - patience will have its reward.

 

[alex2363]

Ok . . . I see from the pics that your adjustment calibration was correct to begin with. Sorry to have lead you down that path . . .

The next thing, and now that you mention the lack of lockdown . . . your compression spring is not compressing. The razor needs to tighten down to flex the blade, and is not able to do so at the lower adjustment settings.

Because of the razor's adjustability, the length of the center rod needs to change in order to properly tighten the blade through the range of adjustments. This is accomplished by using a compression spring as part of the TTO/center rod assembly. At the end of the tightening process, the spring compresses to take up the final amount of slack, which produces what we feel as a "quarter-turn" lockdown.

Over time, with soap scum, mineral deposits, and who knows what, the spring can fill with gunk and harden, preventing compression. Since most people don't change their adjustment, when the spring stops working the razor still works but only at that adjustment setting.

The best fix is to soak the razor in very hot (almost boiling) water with dish soap added. It may take several water changes and time to soften the gunk. Work the TTO, and try to turn the knob just a little more once resistance is felt. A normally-working adjustable will have a noticeable spring action felt when fully tightened.

Sorry again for giving wrong advice . . . a picture is worth a thousand words!

Spotz agrees too

 

[alex2363]

I think you said your razor is a F-2, which I believe does not disassemble as easily as earlier years. So as Brad suggests, soaking to flush things out may be your best shot. Give it time and you may be rewarded.

"if it looks like this you cant take it apart without damaging it.

 

[alex2363]

If it has 2 pin holes then yes

 

[alex2363]

heres a good link http://vintagesaws.com/fatboy/fatboy.html