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Eleven Years On

When I say "soaking the brush less" I am referring to the depth of water, not the time... The soak lasts 5+ minutes (depending on the length of my shower, etc) but you are correct I'm typically soaking less than 1/5th of the total loft of the brush. It seems to have worked fine with all my other brushes, capillary action seems to draw plenty of water into the knot. In addition to a 5+ minute soak at 1/2 loft depth, perhaps I should also try a quick total soak.


They look split to me, compared to my Omega brushes in particular. But perhaps I should do some test lathers, soak cycles, and towel scrubs to encourage the blooming/splitting process.

Hmm. It all sounds right! I soak badgers the same as you do, maybe the bottom 1/4th or so, but I've gotten in the habit of soaking more of the knot on boars. That could be jim and @Tanuki's influence :a17:
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
I soak all my brushes the same.

(Yes, I know you don't have to soak synthetics but I do.)

I am a face latherer. Towards that end I load my soaked but three times shaken brush fairly heavily. Then I paint my face attempting to have a fairly heavy load of soap everywhere; like spackling maybe. More on the dry side than on the wet side.

After that, I dip the brush's tips and just the tips in a little water (very warm water in a little mug). The tips are then used to apply water to the soap on my face by swirling motions, splayed swirling, and by painting. I repeat this hydrating step at least three or four times adding just a little bit more water to the lather every time.

Building the lather is my favorite part of shaving. I love the action. I love the feeling of the knot on my face.

I end up with a slightly foamy lather everywhere. I want it very well hydrated but not running down my chest.

Whether I'm doing all this right or wrong doesn't matter to me. It works. I like the process very much. The results are great. While I think my method should work for anyone, I don't know I'm right in that opinion.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
I soak all my brushes the same.

(Yes, I know you don't have to soak synthetics but I do.)

I am a face latherer. Towards that end I load my soaked but three times shaken brush fairly heavily. Then I paint my face attempting to have a fairly heavy load of soap everywhere; like spackling maybe. More on the dry side than on the wet side.

After that, I dip the brush's tips and just the tips in a little water (very warm water in a little mug). The tips are then used to apply water to the soap on my face by swirling motions, splayed swirling, and by painting. I repeat this hydrating step at least three or four times adding just a little bit more water to the lather every time.

Building the lather is my favorite part of shaving. I love the action. I love the feeling of the knot on my face.

I end up with a slightly foamy lather everywhere. I want it very well hydrated but not running down my chest.

Whether I'm doing all this right or wrong doesn't matter to me. It works. I like the process very much. The results are great. While I think my method should work for anyone, I don't know I'm right in that opinion.

Happy shaves,

Jim
I face lather exactly as you do Jim. I always bloom the soap and that soapy water is poured off into the tip dipping bowl. Jim do you find Ship Shape to do a better job than the clarifying shampoo you used in the beginning for brush cleaning? Another of your early tips in brush maintenance. Combing out the brush, when required. Not all brushes need a gentle combing, but those that do look and dry out much nicer. The two zenith’s I use do benefit and perform better when combed out a tad. Your expertise on brushes always correct and helpful Jim.
Zenith is the first knot I've encountered with a density that might demand a different approach.
Eight hogs have been the limited experience I have. The two Zenith’s most definitely have finer hair and denser knots. The main two reasons I prefer Zenith’s over other boars. I used all brushes in the same manner and routine in lathering. I did not have to make adjustments in use for the Zeniths. They perform better for me.
Another way to assess its age is a close look at the tips. Do they look split at the ends? If not, it's likely newish enough that it's still got some break in to go.
I think a lot of dudes do not push the break-in methods enough on a new boar. Specifically wet-dry soaks and towelling. Yes you certainly can see the difference in the hair splitting and preferred slight tip curling.

IMG_0350.jpeg

The big B35 on the left purchased after the Chubby Scrubby is broken in further than the Chubby. Extra breaking in and exclusive use have it further along. Translucent hair and slight curling can be seen and compared.

IMG_0353.jpeg


But perhaps I should do some test lathers, soak cycles, and towel scrubs to encourage the blooming/splitting
process.

@desertcat Agreed you definitely should do more breaking in. I do one or two hand lathering sessions, before drying out, on each cycle. I do not use SV for hand lathering. The brick of Vito’s I bought will never get used up.

Another comment on my Zeniths. They are in their mid price range, a few dollars more than their entry level boars. There is a difference in performance with a better knot.


I soak all my brushes the same.
Absolutely. Yes syn’s don’t need it. Any elements that can be standardized and repeated in your shave routine strengthen your process. Fewer problems, less mistakes.

All said and done we all use different water chemistries, different soaps and probably water temperatures. These are variables that need adjusting to our specific lathering. The main elements still remain standard.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
John @JoWolf had some great advice.

Generally I don't have much trouble with bleached boar knots. Generally the knots I find to need the most breaking in are ones I either know are unbleached (unbleached Zeniths) or think are probably relatively or fully unbleached (Omega Jade from Connaught, Omega Mighty Midget, Omega Proraso Pro are examples); they can be a bear.

With all my boars I want them very broken in so I do varying numbers of dry to wet to dry cycles, including towel drying of the tips. Sometimes it takes me a few months to fully break in a boar knot, but in my opinion it is worth the time and the smallish effort involved.



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Some split ends are bad.

Split ends on boar knots are the bee's knees. The more the merrier.​



On my boars I want tons of split ends.

John, I don't remember what I used before Ship-Shape so I can't compare it with Ship-Shape. Sorry.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
Thanks for everyone's contributions. Certainly looking at the photos from @JoWolf my Zenith has a long road of breaking-in ahead. Gave it a test lather with vigorous toweling afterword today, will continue the process over the next few days.

As we are discussing lathering and brushes, over the last half-year I have adopted a kind of hybrid style where lathers are started in the bowl and completed on the face. The majority of the wetting/building occurs in the bowl. Painting with the faintest bit of scrubbing before starting the shave. I do a lot of "patting" with the brush in the bowl, trying to reduce airiness. My lather bowl is a cherished piece of ceramic from an old friend. It has a glossy and smooth interior, which seems to aid in creating lathers that aren't too "billowy" and over-aerated. Even in the bowl I still have to be cautious not to scrub the brush with too much vigor, lest I incorporate unnecessary amounts of air and interfere with slickness.

In prior days I built lather exclusively on my face. However I think I did it carelessly and with too heavy of scrubbing. As we've discussed my preference for soaking in a lower volume of water, perhaps my brushes were also not as softened as they could be. I ought to include the occasional face lather. I know the abrasion has its benefit, when done thoughtfully.

On to today:

IMG_5214.jpg


Whipped Dog boar, lathered Lea Pro Sensitive. Followed after @thombrogan and picked up VDH Shave Butter which I tried as a pre-treatment. I may start applying it overnight, liked the feel. Moved the AstraSP from the timeless to my recently acquired Thick-Cap Old Type. The Prewar Tech kept on-deck for either a pass or touchups, depending on how I respond to the aggression of the old type.

I already had a thick-cap old type, but this latest purchase looks a little fresher. I haven't shaved with the other one in years. Been reading that many folks think the thick-cap is milder, and I got curious. I think that assessment is generally correct. Of course, when dealing with 100+ year old razors, each is going to have unique qualities based on its wear. I noted the faintest "raised" spots on the inside of the cap near the corners. I do wonder if the cap and baseplate are as cleanly mated as my thin-cap Old Type. In that razor, without a blade installed, the cap and baseplate meet very exactly.

Southbound the razor felt very smooth, with a touch less harshness than the thin-cap. Northbound quite similar. Was feeling confident enough to approach ATG, which ultimately may have been modestly unwise. The comfort of the earlier two passes perhaps lulled me into a state of complacency. I don't think I perceived any real chatter, but I had a couple surprise weepers and the shave was not as close as I expected, given the amount of bladefeel. Still, it's less bladfefeel than my thin-cap. Perhaps enough reduced bladefeel to make this razor closer to "daily" rather than "once weekly." I'll be curious to shave with it more. I think I prefer the thin-cap at the moment.

I flirted with mustache touchup with the Tech but carelessly nicked myself, didn't thoughtfully transition to another razor. A good reminder that the prewar is no kitten. Alum is detectable but not bracing. CeraVe cream for a nourishing conclusion.

Meanwhile...
current collection is feeling somewhat complete

I am a liar and never should have written this. I have Gillette NEW razors inbound in the long and short comb flavors. If either makes the cut, I might have them replated in nickel to match my other razors.
 
Thanks for everyone's contributions. Certainly looking at the photos from @JoWolf my Zenith has a long road of breaking-in ahead. Gave it a test lather with vigorous toweling afterword today, will continue the process over the next few days.

As we are discussing lathering and brushes, over the last half-year I have adopted a kind of hybrid style where lathers are started in the bowl and completed on the face. The majority of the wetting/building occurs in the bowl. Painting with the faintest bit of scrubbing before starting the shave. I do a lot of "patting" with the brush in the bowl, trying to reduce airiness. My lather bowl is a cherished piece of ceramic from an old friend. It has a glossy and smooth interior, which seems to aid in creating lathers that aren't too "billowy" and over-aerated. Even in the bowl I still have to be cautious not to scrub the brush with too much vigor, lest I incorporate unnecessary amounts of air and interfere with slickness.

In prior days I built lather exclusively on my face. However I think I did it carelessly and with too heavy of scrubbing. As we've discussed my preference for soaking in a lower volume of water, perhaps my brushes were also not as softened as they could be. I ought to include the occasional face lather. I know the abrasion has its benefit, when done thoughtfully.

On to today:

View attachment 1659286

Whipped Dog boar, lathered Lea Pro Sensitive. Followed after @thombrogan and picked up VDH Shave Butter which I tried as a pre-treatment. I may start applying it overnight, liked the feel. Moved the AstraSP from the timeless to my recently acquired Thick-Cap Old Type. The Prewar Tech kept on-deck for either a pass or touchups, depending on how I respond to the aggression of the old type.

I already had a thick-cap old type, but this latest purchase looks a little fresher. I haven't shaved with the other one in years. Been reading that many folks think the thick-cap is milder, and I got curious. I think that assessment is generally correct. Of course, when dealing with 100+ year old razors, each is going to have unique qualities based on its wear. I noted the faintest "raised" spots on the inside of the cap near the corners. I do wonder if the cap and baseplate are as cleanly mated as my thin-cap Old Type. In that razor, without a blade installed, the cap and baseplate meet very exactly.

Southbound the razor felt very smooth, with a touch less harshness than the thin-cap. Northbound quite similar. Was feeling confident enough to approach ATG, which ultimately may have been modestly unwise. The comfort of the earlier two passes perhaps lulled me into a state of complacency. I don't think I perceived any real chatter, but I had a couple surprise weepers and the shave was not as close as I expected, given the amount of bladefeel. Still, it's less bladfefeel than my thin-cap. Perhaps enough reduced bladefeel to make this razor closer to "daily" rather than "once weekly." I'll be curious to shave with it more. I think I prefer the thin-cap at the moment.

I flirted with mustache touchup with the Tech but carelessly nicked myself, didn't thoughtfully transition to another razor. A good reminder that the prewar is no kitten. Alum is detectable but not bracing. CeraVe cream for a nourishing conclusion.

Meanwhile...


I am a liar and never should have written this. I have Gillette NEW razors inbound in the long and short comb flavors. If either makes the cut, I might have them replated in nickel to match my other razors.
In prior days I built lather exclusively on my face. However I think I did it carelessly and with too heavy of scrubbing. As we've discussed my preference for soaking in a lower volume of water, perhaps my brushes were also not as softened as they could be. I ought to include the occasional face lather. I know the abrasion has its benefit, when done thoughtfully.
I started off trying to break in boars on my face. Big Mistake. Sensitive skin issues went to severe. There should never be Any Type of Skin Discomfort from any type of shave brush, soaps, pre or post products. Any discomfort in your shave must be corrected. A moment of clarity. Break in boars to a nice comfort level before using. The easiest way to determine this was hand lathering the brush. After a wet/dry/towelling. You can Feel the brushes progress and comfort very easily in your hand without injuring or irritating your facial skin.

Hand lathering was also the first lather I would do with a new soap. You can work out many lathering issues and explore the soap and lather at your leisure. I also shaved a few times hand lathering, not ideal but rewarding in troubleshooting lather and brush problems.

I had brush - face - bowl lathered for a few decades before discovering B&B. My first impressions after joining was everybody seemed to overthink lathering. After trying a dozen or so soaps. For me it was making Slight Adjustments in the water/soap ratio. Try not to overthink it.

You can see soft in the hair of a brush. The finer hairs are the softest brushes. If there is scritch or roughness in any hair, badger, hog or horse, towelling after a hand lathering will wear the sharp edges down to smooth and comfort. In my opinion there is no such thing as good Scritch. I wore down sharp edged hairs towelling, in any offending brush.

Boar is my favourite hair. It is the only hair knot that you can feel changing. Always getting softer. My B35 not in the pic is softer than the pair of two band badgers, but not softer than the front left silvertip. For me boars are superior to Badger and horse because they have usable backbone. After initially going through my splaying the daylights out of brushes stage. I came to realize that the best attributes of brush action are in the first half inch of hair. I can’t remember the last time I splayed a brush. I hope some of my opinions and comments will help you figure out your brushes best qualities and performance.

IMG_1902.jpeg
 
I want a Zenith bleached boar 505 series because the 28mm x 51mm seems idyllic, but I also want a similarly-handled B27 because — despite it’s vulgarly off-putting 57mm loft 🤢 — it’s sold in North America as “The Chubby Scrubby” and that’s cute.

I have one of those, the Chubby Scrubby XL!

1685080905217.png


It's pretty scrubby, but not as scrubby as the 27x52 Omega. I seriously LOVE the 505 handle, but the knot is so short the hairs don't splay so much as bend. lol. It feels much smaller than the 28mm diameter might suggest. The Omega splays just enough to be awesome and feels bigger on the face.

The 26x55 unbleached Zenith is the least scrubby and has the most splay of the three, but it's still scrubby for sure.
 
Thanks all for chatting about your Boars while I've been away. Family visiting town over the holiday weekend, been busy taking them to see sights like the Oregon coast:

IMG_5247.jpeg


We were very fortunate with the weather, sunshine but not too hot, perhaps a bit windy... but still a lovely visit. I have been shaving daily in a hurried manner (mostly with Techs) but I finally had a chance for a leisurely shave after all this running around...

5/29
IMG_5287.jpeg


Whipped Dog boar with Mike's Natural, Nacet with one prior shave loaded into this NEW LC with common handle. Today's my inaugural shave with this razor. Overall very pleasant first encounter, the lightweight handle is a little deceptive and I have to remain vigilant to avoid adding any pressure.

Definitely less aggressive than my Old Types, yet it still has detectable bladefeel and good smoothness. I feel like I can move pretty quickly, in a sort of Tech-like manner. Not quite as eager to snatch the shortest stubble on the ATG strokes, but with persistence I manage to clean up pretty thoroughly. On the positive, it feels much more reassuring and confident addressing the mustache without fearing a bite. No weepers or irritation. It's an interesting intermediary, I'm curious how it compares against the slightly-aggressive prewar Tech, or the FaTip.

So far, I like everything about this razor except the color. It sticks out like a sore thumb alongside all my steel/chrome/nickel/silver plated razors. I keep thinking about getting some replating done, maybe this will be the impetus... I still need to try the NEW SC which came as a companion with this razor. The short comb has much shabbier plating, perhaps it's a better candidate for a replate than this shiny--but in my eyes, ugly-colored--long comb.

Last Thursday? I also had a photo-worthy shave I suppose:
IMG_5229.jpeg


Noble Otter Orbit sample, with Omega 49 and the '54 Tech... probably a Nacet? Shave was reasonably thorough and easygoing. Soap had good performance, was expecting something more aquatic/blue scented and did not anticipate the menthol. It was a nice mild cooling, rather than the bracing chill of Lea for example. Soap base performance seemed good, though I would've preferred something without menthol.

Realizing that if scents can be equated with colors, my preference tends toward blue and green.

Hope folks are enjoying the holiday weekend. Ciao!
 
It’s so wonderful how personal preferences are, right? I thought your LC looked amazing with well preserved plating it seems. But you could indeed replate it with factory nickel. I have an SC underway. Photos were too dark to really tell but that plating seemed ok, but I don’t think s as good as your LC.

Nice ones!

Guido
 
5/30
Moved the Nacet from the NEW LC into the '56 Tech, lathered a sample of RR What The Puck (unknown scent) with the Simpson X2L best badger. Found the soap to perform reasonably well, scent was unremarkable. Rather utilitarian but made for a perfectly good shave. I'm not looking for total decadence but I prefer soaps with a little more luxury. Simpson felt a little scrubbier than last use, which my skin didn't appreciate much today.

Shave was straightforward early on. ATG the razor can't quite bring the stubble to total elimination, and my handling is not as gentle as I can sometimes manage. So the shave concludes slightly lacking in both closeness and comfort, but no lingering irritation. No weepers or nicks, nearly zero response to alum. At least I knew when to stop chasing the stubble, I suppose.

Expecting an earlier bedtime tonight, and will likely have the time/energy to attempt the NEW SC for tomorrow's shave.



I thought your LC looked amazing
From a quality-of-plating standpoint, it's a beautiful specimen. To my eye, and compared to the color palette of the rest of my collection, it's attention-grabbing in a negative way. But I'd feel a kernel of guilt replating a razor that has decent original plating. Like I said, if the NEW SC is preferable for my shave, it's probably a better candidate.

@gpjoe has some experience
Was @gpjoe experimenting with homespun electroplating? I recall seeing someone do that.
 
Was @gpjoe experimenting with homespun electroplating? I recall seeing someone do that.

I dabbled a bit. Still a work in progress, though I haven't gotten any new old razors recently.

Some of my past victims:

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First pic, just plated the cap and handle, second pic, all three parts, third pic, just the cap an base plate. I call my work "Back Woods Gold" as an homage to the master: Chris at Back Roads Gold.

There's more info here, with before and after pics, you'll just have to weed through my rants on random stuff mixed in.

 
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Impressive electroplating efforts @gpjoe I'd say the "Backwoods" shine nearly as brightly as the Back Roads! And thanks for linking your journal, I had recalled seeing your earliest posts when you were just getting started, neat to see where it took you. Just curious, between the buffing wheel, power supply, and nickel solution... how much did the whole operation set you back?
 
@gpjoe - you are selling yourself short brother! For a bit of dabbling I would say these are excellent results! Very nice!

Cheers,

Guido

Thank you. 🙂

Impressive electroplating efforts @gpjoe I'd say the "Backwoods" shine nearly as brightly as the Back Roads! And thanks for linking your journal, I had recalled seeing your earliest posts when you were just getting started, neat to see where it took you. Just curious, between the buffing wheel, power supply, and nickel solution... how much did the whole operation set you back?

Thanks. 🙂

The buffing wheel was the most expensive item, though still very affordable at around $80. I don't remember the cost of the power supply, but I would guesstimate my total investment was well under a couple hundred bucks.

I rationalized it in two ways.

First, I figure I would use the buffing wheel for other tasks, like buffing and maintaining the finishes of my old smoking pipes or even lightly buffing our gold items (which admittedly are few 🙂).

And second, it cost me the approximate price of sending three razors out to be plated by Chris or someone else.

Now, I never expected that my attempt would rival the work of Chris, and my goal was a functional re-plate on some of my old razors. I'm satisfied with the results.
 
I just want to add (and I think most of this is in my journal) that you can use an old wall charger (with two wires) for your power supply. Everybody has a few of these in a junk drawer...and a buffing wheel isn't really necessary. An old rag and a bit of metal polish will work.

Besides that. All you need is some distilled white vinegar and table salt, and some containers. I used jars which also conveniently and securely store the solution.

So really you can try it for next to nothing, with stuff you likely already have on hand. The only item you need to buy is nickel stock (strips) which are available on Amazon and elsewhere.

The results should be the same, as long as you prepare the parts properly. Smooth, clean, and shiny surfaces before plating will yield a beautifully plated item, and any shortcuts will be magnified once plated.
 
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