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Eleven Years On

5/8

As @thombrogan would say, I played around with the lawn mower and pressure washer today before hitting the locker room. Nice to make some progress keeping things civilized around the yard.

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First ride with the Zenith 50/50 horsehair set in olive wood handle. Lathered Mike's Natural to reduce unknown variables. Selected the '54 Tech with its loaded Nacet, 1 prior shave. I changed my routine and washed my stubble with PAA cube at the beginning of my shower--I could feel some itching, so perhaps I need to alternate or reduce the duration of contact with the soap.

First impressions, the brush is very interesting! It has similarities to my other low-backbone brushes like my Rudy Vey finest badger. It preferred a little support near the tips during loading, so I held it more by the bristles rather than by the handle at the outset. Lather was created quickly and I can tell it has a nice flow-through, seemed to release lather quite easily. Against the face, the thickness of the hair is apparent. The scritch of the tips is reminiscent of my Simpson Best badger, but perhaps because the hair is so thick, it feels more comfortable against the face than the best badger. It definitely prefers to paint, rather than splay.

Today's lather feels thoroughly slick and hydrated, seemed to make a good combination with the milder Tech. Lightness is a little elusive, but I'd say the shave is slightly more comfortable as yesterday while being just as close--perhaps closer. Alum has a mild reaction. Applied Lucky Tiger balm with a touch of Nivea to conclude.
 
5/9
Went for a nice hike this afternoon, trying to take advantage of cooler temperatures before a heatwave arrives this weekend. Behold the mighty Columbia:

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Onward to the shave:

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Lathered C.O. Bigelow mentholated cream with the Yaqi silvertip. Moved a Nacet with 2 prior shaves into an infrequently used razor: the WWII-era "Contract" Gillette Tech. As can be seen, some of the plating has worn and is showing the base metal, I can't determine if it's a darker brass or copper for the head materials. I believe the handle is some kind of pot metal Zamak, it's fairly heavy.

Preshaved with the faintest coating of Arko. I didn't feel any of that itching near my nose, leading me to believe the PAA cube should be used more sparingly or alternated to avoid sensitivity. Lather was on the heavier side. I am hoping to finally finish this tube of cream, only a couple shaves remaning--I've had the tube for probably 10 years. I added some additional water throughout the shave, which seemed to help.

This was the first Tech I ever shaved with. Today it felt surprisingly mild, and perhaps the blade wasn't perfectly aligned as one side had slightly more bladefeel than the other. Between the mildness and the mentholated cream, I think I applied a little pressure but escaped mostly unscathed, only a couple pinhead weepers. The shave was not terribly close, but was reasonably comfortable throughout, alum was less detectable than yesterday. Finished with CeraVe and Thayer's.

I am thinking this was probably the farewell shave for this razor, I am likely to include it in a PIF. I'm not terribly interested in saving mementos of shaving history that I don't regularly use. I also have an aesthetic preference--nay, requirement--for cold-colored metals. But in any case, it shaves perfectly well and should be enjoyed by someone else. Plus I needed to make room for...


Vintage Store Finds:

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An excellent-condition Thin-cap Old Type (from 1918 if I'm interpreting the serial number correctly) cleaned up very nicely, no crack in the handle.

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(pictured before I cleaned it up)

And also!
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A very charming encased travel razor, brand unknown. Gonna post to the Safety Razor section to see if anyone can guess the make. Incidentally I also have a thick-cap Old Type inbound from the BST, I purchased before I found these treasures... Oops!
 
5/10

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Rushed this morning. I need all-day closeness, with very short stubble from a later shave yesterday... so I have to pick something with aggression...

FaTip contains a Nacet with perhaps 3 prior shaves, lathered Mike's Natural with my favorite--the Whipped Dog 2-band. Typical preshave routine with shower, PAA cube, and away we go.

Given the shortness of my stubble, I skip the southbound pass and begin with Northbound. The FaTip has no difficulty, things are moving rapidly. ATG some brief skin-stabilizing helps achieve good closeness. A quick touchup on the mustache and challenge areas gathers the remaining stubble. Overall good light contact, but in my haste I open a pinhead weeper or two. The alum has little response (but not zero) and I conclude with HydroBoost and a splash of Lucky Tiger. Very close, very comfortable.

Tomorrow should be more leisurely, and I am thinking of using my recently-acquired WWI Old-Type. Lots of blades have been binned from my razors recently... I had become less diligent about tracking their uses, and the collection of active razors is large enough now that I will struggle with tracking in the future. So perhaps I'll move blades between razors, maybe keeping 1 or 2 active at a time. We'll see what emerges.
 
5/11
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Much more leisurely shave today, decided to try the 1918 Thin Cap Old Type with a fresh Nacet. Lathered Cella with the Whipped Dog boar set in resin.

This razor impresses me. Despite being 105 years old, it only has a touch of brassing at the end of the handle, and the head plating still shines quite brightly. The bladefeel is similar to the R41, but I can tell the blade is clamped more strongly and it doesn't feel likely to "bite" unexpectedly. Still, the shave requires focus and deliberate attention to lightness and angle. It's also obvious that a more rigid blade would improve the smoothness of this razor, but I still think it's smoother than the R41. Southbound I think I was a touch steep, and perhaps applying the faintest bit of pressure but I escape without injury. Northbound is very comfortable and effective. The ATG pass I get nipped outside the mustache, probably the result of speed and inattention, I can tell I need to keep my skin surfaces flat. Overall a very close shave, and little response from the alum. Nivea + Thayer's to conclude.

Much better/more comfortable shave than my other Old Type, which is an older model in much rougher condition. The heads looks slightly different, but I don't think the other model is a Thick-Cap. I have read that the Thick Cap is a little milder, will be interesting to compare when mine arrives from the BST next week.
 
5/11
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Much more leisurely shave today, decided to try the 1918 Thin Cap Old Type with a fresh Nacet. Lathered Cella with the Whipped Dog boar set in resin.

This razor impresses me. Despite being 105 years old, it only has a touch of brassing at the end of the handle, and the head plating still shines quite brightly. The bladefeel is similar to the R41, but I can tell the blade is clamped more strongly and it doesn't feel likely to "bite" unexpectedly. Still, the shave requires focus and deliberate attention to lightness and angle. It's also obvious that a more rigid blade would improve the smoothness of this razor, but I still think it's smoother than the R41. Southbound I think I was a touch steep, and perhaps applying the faintest bit of pressure but I escape without injury. Northbound is very comfortable and effective. The ATG pass I get nipped outside the mustache, probably the result of speed and inattention, I can tell I need to keep my skin surfaces flat. Overall a very close shave, and little response from the alum. Nivea + Thayer's to conclude.

Much better/more comfortable shave than my other Old Type, which is an older model in much rougher condition. The heads looks slightly different, but I don't think the other model is a Thick-Cap. I have read that the Thick Cap is a little milder, will be interesting to compare when mine arrives from the BST next week.

Fantastic write up and descriptions my man. This makes me want to try the Thin Cap and Thick Cap Old Types I've had sitting neglected in a drawer for months. Too many razors to try! :)
 
Too many razors to try!
Good problems to have!

Before launching into today's writing, I want to mention the longevity of yesterday's Old Type shave... It was remarkable. I only had the faintest beginnings of stubble 14+ hours after the shave. So despite the shave taking longer, the result was certainly worth the effort. Easily one of the closest shaves I've managed to produce. I imagine the aggression of that razor is probably a bit beyond daily shaving... certainly for 3 pass shaves anyway. But I will continue to reach for the Old Type on a regular basis.

Now, today: 5/12

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I should mention my skin condition/general physical presence was modestly diminished today, up too late with less sleep than I'd probably prefer. As the weather warms, my rhythms get disturbed.... I'll reach equilibrium soon. Today would've been a good candidate for a coconut oil pre-treatment, but I proceeded as normal.

Moved yesterdays Nacet into the Timeless .95. Lathered Lea Professional with the Rudy Vey Finest badger in burl. This brush has particularly little backbone, so it seemed like a good candidate for a cream. Managed to get this lather hydrated properly, sometimes creams tempt me to water too conservatively.

Overall the southbound pass felt kind of perfunctory, all the work happened in the final two passes. Fast, comfortable, and in the ballpark of my usual level of DFS++/BBS- closeness. Alum only has a faint presence afterword. One area behind the jawline wasn't totally addressed. HydroBoost + Lucky Tiger ASB to conclude.
 
Two shaves:

5/13
GC .84-P with the Nacet I used earlier in the week, so 2 prior shaves. Lathered C.O. Bigelow cream with the new Omega 49. A comfortable shave, razor felt somewhat inefficient and though I had basically no stubble remaining, I could tell it wasn't terribly deep/persistent. However I needed a more idiot-proof razor and it gave acceptable results. Nivea and Thayer's to conclude.

5/14
'66 Tech with a Nacet already loaded, not sure how many shaves on the blade. Lathered Arko with the Yaqi Tuxedo, face lathered which isn't typical for me. Very tired today, again I am glad to reach for a forgiving razor. Shave is comfortable, but far from close. Still, the stubble is made shorter if not eliminated entirely, alum has no response. CeraVe to conclude.

These last two shaves felt more like "maintenance" and not like "indulgent self-care" but both were successful for the needs of my skin and accomodated my available skill and attention. Hoping to try the Thick-cap Old Type to compare to the very successful shave from the thin-cap. At some point soon, I'd like to move through the remaining samples from @flask28 so I can pass the box onto another member.
 
5/15

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Played around with the lawn mower for a bit before hitting the shower. Still unusually hot weather here, hopefully I didn't stress the lawn.

Selected the Fat Handle Prewar Tech and moved the Nacet from this last week, so 3 prior shaves on the blade. Lathered C.O. Bigelow again, probably only 3 or 4 shaves remaining in the tube. Used the Colonel X2L Best Simpson badger, which is a brush I don't frequently grab... The tips are often too abrasive, which can be mitigated by "painting" more than scrubbing. Today they felt a little more approachable. Figuring my skin could accept a little exfoliation because I used a heavier moisturizer yesterday.

Shave went smoothly, Southbound passes continue to feel sort of unnecessary from a whisker-removal standpoint, seems like 85% of the work happens during the final ATG pass. 1 or 2 pinhead weepers opened. Blade still felt sharp but perhaps this was its last easy shave. I wonder about how blades wear differently between different razors, considering this blade spent an earlier shave in the Timeless I don't know if that did anything to reduce its effective lifespan. I just feel wasteful and forgetful about the number of shaves on blades if each razor is loaded. Perhaps I'll only rotate blades between the Techs, as I think the higher aggression razors may shave differently with worn blades.

Overall the shave was thorough, not too slow or labored. Alum had basically no response, concluded with the last dab of a bottle of Nivea + Thayer's with a little HydroBoost.
 
5/16

Inspired by discussion with @blethenstrom I wanted to have a speedier shave today. Also didn't feel the need to shower, which is my usual routine. Chose to use Mike's Natural with the G5S AP Shave, a fresh Nacet installed into the FaTip Grande Chrome.

Total time was about 18 minutes, which included brushing my teeth. Actual shaving was perhaps 11 minutes.

I allowed the soap to bloom while brushing my teeth, followed by lathering in a bowl and washing my whole face with PAA Cube. Hot towel applied for probably 1 minute, before proceeding to the shave. Growth was light, so I skipped the Southbound pass. Started Northbound and finished with an ATG pass, touchups of the mustache and chin to conclude. 1 or 2 pinhead weepers formed, but overall it was very comfortable and thorough shaving: BBS-/DFS+ throughout. Alum had practically no response. Concluded with Nivea and a splash of Lucky Tiger ASB.

Perhaps worth considering @blethenstrom --After rinsing my razor in the tap, I submerge it headfirst into a little jar of isopropyl alcohol (while applying post-shave) to hopefully allow the blade/head/threads to dry faster. I leave the FaTip loaded/tightened so I don't have to align the blade before the next shave--other razors I loosen the head slightly to reduce strain on the threads. I just dab off the excess alcohol and leave the razor on the counter to dry.
 
5/17

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Probably too many experiments for one day's shave. Dropped a fresh Nacet into the Timeless .95 (only other time I've used a Nacet in this razor it had one or two previous shaves) and lathered the Mammoth Indigo sample with the Zenith copper handled boar.

Overall the goal of this shave was to assess the soap. I enjoyed the scent, wasn't totally enchanted by the quality of the lather however. I presume I loaded around a gram (should've weighed) and was running short of lather by the conclusion of the shave. Not quite as much residual slickness as I prefer. Perhaps it deserves a second chance, I'll dig around in the sample box to see if there's another Mammoth base in there.

The sharpness of the fresh Nacet was not an ideal combination with the aggressiveness of the Timeless. I was able to maintain a reasonably gentle hand, still opened a healthy bleeder on the chin. Because of the aggression, I couldn't quite address cleanup without inviting irritatiojn, so some stubble along the right jawline was not addressed to my liking. But in the end, comfort was only modestly reduced from yesterday's shave, the alum doesn't find any significant areas of complaint. HydroBoost + Lucky Tiger ASB to conclude.
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
Please heal quickly. I’m very surprised the lather doesn’t outperform the soaps I use during and after the shave.
 
Catching up:

5/18
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FaTip Grande with Nacet, Zingari Explorer sample, Whipped Dog boar. Enjoyed this scent, though it was very strong--made me sneeze a couple times! But it felt very youthful, paired it with an old aquatic cologne. Satisfying and effective lather. Shave was close and reasonably comfortable.

5/19

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WW1 Old Type with Nacet (moved from Timeless), TOBS Eton College sample, Yaqi Silvertip. Enjoyed this lather, not as crazy-strong scented as the Zingari. Effective and reasonably slick. The shave was as deep/persistent as my last attempt with this razor. Wish I could shave with it more frequently, but the bladefeel is so substantial I worry it would invite irritation. Alum found little complaint.

5/20
Pre war Fat Handle Tech with Nacet, lathered Mike's Natural with the old Omega 49. Very little stubble to remove, this Tech has the modest aggression to make a reasonably close shave with enough mildness to remain respectful of my skin. Close and comfortable.

5/21
'66 Tech with Nacet, lathered Pamolive cream with the TGN Badger. Shaved independently from showering, mild razor protected me from potential clumsiness. Shave was acceptably effective and timely. Small amount of response from alum.
 
5/22

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New AstraSP installed in the Timeless .95, lathered Seaforth! Heather with the AP Shave G5S. Showered first, washed my face with Arko and applied a tepid washcloth to whiskers before applying lather. Excellent rich base for lather, scent is pleasant and not overwhelming. Probably modestly too heavy/underhydrated but still produced a good shave. Above average post-shave comfort, good residual slickness. The Astra is a more comfortable blade in this razor than a fresh Nacet, for me. Thorough shave, one pinhead weeper, hint of response from alum only in a couple places. Nivea to conclude. Neck is itching slightly in the aftermath but I'm sure it will fade.

As I work my way through these samples, I find that I can detect some different qualities between these soaps, but their identities (in regard to lather) are subtle and nuanced. I'm sure with extended use and comparison they'd be more obvious. As long as the scents aren't smoky, I tend to enjoy most of them. As in other aspects of shaving, I've grown in awareness of differences between products, but my results feel less influenced by those differences.
I did change my blooming strategy with these samples, spreading the scoop of soap quite thinly across the lather bowl before splashing with water, to allow maximum hydration before applying the brush. I think it has helped me achieve lathers that more closely resemble lathering off a puck/container.

There are around 20-25 more samples that I still plan to try. Like I said I'm skipping anything with smoke, also avoiding a couple brands that don't interest me. I'll try to remain constant in the documentation. I still have curiosity about some razors (the New SC specifically) but my current collection is feeling somewhat complete. I have a number of other projects, goals, and challenges that will need greater attention in the coming months. I do feel like I've succeeded at my original goals of improving my shave, and adding greater variety into my routines. I imagine further improvement will primarily require time and consistency with a smaller range of products.

P.S. To all you Zenith Boar lovers... thinking specifically of @flask28 @Chan Eil Whiskers @Phoenixkh ...I am not experiencing the magic with that brush yet. Bought it used, so I have no idea how much "breaking in" it already experienced... For me, the density of the bristles seems to be interfering with flow-through and I can't get a proper splay or paint because of the stiffness. Certainly a different boar than my Omega brushes. I intend to try deeper bristle soaking on a future shave, any additional thoughts would be welcome.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
5/22...
P.S. To all you Zenith Boar lovers... thinking specifically of @flask28 @Chan Eil Whiskers @Phoenixkh ...I am not experiencing the magic with that brush yet. Bought it used, so I have no idea how much "breaking in" it already experienced... For me, the density of the bristles seems to be interfering with flow-through and I can't get a proper splay or paint because of the stiffness. Certainly a different boar than my Omega brushes. I intend to try deeper bristle soaking on a future shave, any additional thoughts would be welcome.


Which boar are you having trouble with? I think I've seen at least two Zenith boars, both bleached, one with a copper handle.

Whether any of this is helpful is beyond me, but here's what I do.
  1. Bathe
  2. Soak
  3. Rinse

1. If a boar isn't to my liking it receives a bath...


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in Ship-Shape



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A bucket from Auto Zone is perfect.

I've had several brushes go awry. Most are fixed by Ship-Shape. Some aren't. Unfortunately some knots are duds.

A friend told me the brush I gave him because I hate the knot was his favorite. Just goes to show, right



2. My boars are always soaked before I use them. I soak them up to the top of the bristle where it meets the handle. I want the bristles fully saturated if that's the right term. The knot soaks in warm water while I shower or wash my face at the sink.

While I'm doing the preshave Tube application the brush is soaking in water which is a lot warmer. Not hot.



3. My brushes are rinsed extremely well after they're used. I do not want any soap at all on or in the knot.



Good luck with the boar. I'll be interested in what happens.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 
@Chan Eil Whiskers I appreciate your experience and input. I will research and consider the product you mentioned. I have only the copper-handled Zenith at the moment. Perhaps my strategy of soaking in very sparing water worked better with the lower-density Omega knot. Practically all my natural hair brushes get soaked in a mug with very little water during preshave--less than 1 inch typically.

I think very early in my shaving days (10 years ago) I had difficulty with making overhydrated, soupy, or over-aerated lathers by starting with too much water, too rapidly, due to starting with a very saturated brush. I mitigated this issue by soaking the brush less, but the Zenith is the first knot I've encountered with a density that might demand a different approach.
 
@Chan Eil Whiskers I appreciate your experience and input. I will research and consider the product you mentioned. I have only the copper-handled Zenith at the moment. Perhaps my strategy of soaking in very sparing water worked better with the lower-density Omega knot. Practically all my natural hair brushes get soaked in a mug with very little water during preshave--less than 1 inch typically.

I think very early in my shaving days (10 years ago) I had difficulty with making overhydrated, soupy, or over-aerated lathers by starting with too much water, too rapidly, due to starting with a very saturated brush. I mitigated this issue by soaking the brush less, but the Zenith is the first knot I've encountered with a density that might demand a different approach.

@Chan Eil Whiskers nailed it with his sage response.

Anna Kendrick Movie GIF by Pitch Perfect


I'll be honest a say I've struggled a little bit with the Zenith bleached boars, but for the completely opposite reasons you describe - they have just a tad too little backbone for me, I've come to somewhat prefer the mildly stiffer zenith unbleached boars. But that's wildly different than what you are describing. If you are only soaking the bottom 1/3 of the brush for 60-120 seconds that quite different than what I do and may be part of the difference

Like Jim, I'm dunking the brush up almost to the handle, at least 2/3's. More like 3/4's of the knot is getting soaked. And I'm soaking for 5 min minimum, sometimes I forget about it and it's more like 10min. Ok, it's been longer than that a few times. :)

The 506 copper bleached was a serious lather eater and somewhat bootbrushish for me during the first 20 shaves or so - it sounds like your is too. If it's still stingy after a longer, deeper soak it must still be pretty new. You might give it 10-15 wet/dry cycles to help break it in. Another way to assess its age is a close look at the tips. Do they look split at the ends? If not, it's likely newish enough that it's still got some break in to go.
 
only soaking the bottom 1/3 of the brush for 60-120 seconds
When I say "soaking the brush less" I am referring to the depth of water, not the time... The soak lasts 5+ minutes (depending on the length of my shower, etc) but you are correct I'm typically soaking less than 1/5th of the total loft of the brush. It seems to have worked fine with all my other brushes, capillary action seems to draw plenty of water into the knot. In addition to a 5+ minute soak at 1/2 loft depth, perhaps I should also try a quick total soak.

Do they look split at the ends?
They look split to me, compared to my Omega brushes in particular. But perhaps I should do some test lathers, soak cycles, and towel scrubs to encourage the blooming/splitting process.
 
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