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Dishwasher won't spin

It is a Whirlpool Ultimate Care II and says Quiet Wash I. It is about 6 years old.

It agitates, drains, but doesn't spin so the clothes are still wet. I hear the motor running but it just isn't spinning. It started to do it occasionally but now it is 9/10 cycles it doesn't spin.

If it is cheap and easy I could try and fix it myself.

I see in the yellowpages most companies will charge you $8 to look at and it would be free to look at if they end up repairing it.

Should I have someone look at it?

I read on the internet it could be the coupler.

How much would it cost to have someone fix it?

It was only about $350-400 new. I don't think it would be worth fixing if it will cost around $200. If it would be less than $100 it probably will be worth it.
 
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It would probably be worth the $8 to have them diagnose the problem and generate a list of the parts needed.

www.fixya.com has troubleshooting and repair advice for a lot of appliances.
 
Ummmmm don't you mean the washing machine instead of a dishwasher ???


At any rate that happened to mine, it's also a few years old. But I also do a LOT of laundry with 3 kids. Mine is a kenmore which is also made by whirlpool just under a different name. And is most likely around that 6-8 year mark as well. Can't remember when i got it, bought it new from Sears.

But my hubby took it apart and hotwired the button that starts and stops the machine when you lift the lid. So now that is disabled so it will spin even with the door opened. But I didn't have to pay a service guy or buy parts. Or even worse, repleace it.


Personally I have had more problems with sears products than I can shake a stick at. I would never buy another appliance from them again. Problems with the washing machine, fridge (twice, thermostat and compressor and you think when you drop well over a grand you would get quality), and the dishwasher several times, went through two of them. Except the dishwasher is replaced with an Amana from the local guy in town and not sears.
 
Could be the brushes in the motor? Easy and cheap fix if you know what you're doing, just don't poke about under the hood without switching the power off!
 
Most all the traditional designed (i.e. top loading) US machines have common ancestry. They are all made in a few locations with minor option changes dictated by the final company.

If you hear the motor running, I doubt it is the safety switch in the door or the brushes in the motor. I think all the US made machines are an AC motor, so don't have brushes. Since it is intermitent, I suspect it is a solenoid that shifts the transmission into the spin function, mechanical wear that allows the linkage to bind preventing it from going into gear or the transmission itself. It could be anything from the switch contacts in the timer, to the wiring to the solenoid to the tranny itself. If you are somewhat handy and have a multimeter you could do a few tests to determine which it is. If you really are getting in over your head, $8 for a diagnosis is money well spent. In fact, it is money you might consider spending even if you are handy. It is one of those things that when you work on washers all the time, you recognize a hand full of common problems, and I bet it is one that a real repairman will solve quickly.

If it is the tranny itself, the cost of replacement inspired us to buy our current machine. If you get to where you are deciding to buy a new machine, I have been impressed with our front loading LG machine. Very quiet compared to any other machine I have seen and saves water and power. Owned about 6 months, so the jury is still out.
 
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I checked with Whirlpool and they had a list of service providers in my area. I found one with an A+ rating on the Better Business Bureau.

I called them and they said that their trip fee is $87.95 (big difference from $7.95 the others are charging). I asked why so much compared to others. She gave me a generic answer "they probably have hidden fees and charge more for the work". She then told me minimum labor is $32 and the trip fee doesn't go toward the repair. The repair has a lifetime warranty compared to the others that are 2 yr (but all I need it to last is another couple years).

So not even paying for the parts I am already in $119.95!!!!

I do feel the other companies probably have some hidden fees.
 
I just spoke with someone that doesn't service my area but was very helpful. He stated it was either a bad/faulty timer or a transmission but he was leaning towards a bad transmission. He stated something like the transmission could have caused the clutch to go and if you replace the clutch it may break in 1 yr. He stated to look under washer and there probably will be oil on the sides of the cabinet (There was).

He stated that most places will charge about $250-300 parts and labor for a new transmission and he would just buy a new washer since I paid about $350 for mine 6-7 years ago.

Also he said to stay away from GE and that Whirlpool makes most washers such as Maytag, Kenmore, Roper, Admiral, etc. He said that parts are pretty much identical and you are paying more for the name if you by say a Maytag.

I guess I need to go shopping for the best deals in washers.

Any ideas on the best place to buy (home depot, hh gregg, best buy, costco, etc)?
 
Any ideas on the best place to buy (home depot, hh gregg, best buy, costco, etc)?

Not really, but be careful matching model numbers. Stores will price match IF the model is exactly the same. Problem is they are usually not (at least in the case of refridgerators when I did this a while ago). The LG appliances are well regarded and a friend of mine got a great deal at Home Depot on a price match/sale a few months back.
 

Sue

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Check the yellow pages for an appliance parts dealer near you. Call them with the model number and explain the problem. They usually tell you what you need on the phone and the price of the part. We've used a local parts dealer numerous times. They've been right each time. :smile:

Here's a link that may be helpful:
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_11_1.asp#Level1_3

Sue
 
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... The LG appliances are well regarded and a friend of mine got a great deal at Home Depot on a price match/sale a few months back.

+1 we got our current set from Home Depot. did quite a bit of searching. talked to repairmen who claim to have very few service calls on the LG. Also, at the price point, the LG comes with stainless tub while the US made machines do not.
 
Check the yellow pages for an appliance parts dealer near you. Call them with the model number and explain the problem. They usually tell you what you need on the phone and the price of the part. We've used a local parts dealer numerous times. They've been right each time. :smile:

Here's a link that may be helpful:
http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_11_1.asp#Level1_3

Sue

+1 our whirlpool was leaking from the seal at the bottom of the transmission. checked on rebuilding it and no one wanted to attempt it. checked on the price of the tranny and found it to be in the $300 range and our machine was 10 years old. rather than repairing it, we gave it to my daughter about 6 months ago and it is still working fine for her. I am sure it will fail some time but it is buying her time at the present.
 
We have an LG washer and gas dryer that we bought at Best Buy. The only problem we've had was a leak that I was able to fix myself by ordering a $20 part. It really is amazingly simple what's underneath a modern washer.
 

Luc

"To Wiki or Not To Wiki, That's The Question".
I had a similar problem at home with mine. I had the exact same symptoms but you might have something faulty on it...

The problem was that I was overloading the machine. It's written on it that it can take 4.5 kg loads or something like it. After many many hours on the net to find the instruction manual, I figured out that I was busting the 4.5 kg. The washing machine drained the water but didn't spin and left 1-2 inch of water at the bottom of the tub. Everything sounded like it was fine.

I would advise to first do a cycle with minimum water and empty (no clothes, just water). See if it's spins. If it does, then, overloaded machine. Otherwise, yup, have it checked.
 
I think I am going to buy a new washer because from what I can see it will cost about $250-$300 to fix my 6-7 yr old washer that I paid $350 for originally.

Home depot has an Admiral $279. Built by whirlpool.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...roductId=100661285&N=10000003+525332+10401013

Home depot has a maytage for $386 Built by Whirlpool
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...3&productId=100654522&N=10000003+90401+525332

Home depot has this front load Amana for $449 Built by Whirlpool. Consumer best buy.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...ogId=10053&productId=100606167&N=525311+90401

We like the front loader because of looks and may be able to wash our comforters BUT I read and heard from relatives that they tend to get moldy and smelly. Stores even sell special cleaner tablets to use to get the smell out. Also it is recommended that I would have to buy the expensive H.E detergents.
 
We like the front loader because of looks and may be able to wash our comforters BUT I read and heard from relatives that they tend to get moldy and smelly. Stores even sell special cleaner tablets to use to get the smell out. Also it is recommended that I would have to buy the expensive H.E detergents.

The washer gets moldy and smelly or your comforter? We have a Maytag Neptune frontloading washer and dryer combo that was gifted to us. It is a nice set. We have had many problems with balance and the washer shaking and walking during spin. I had a service guy out and he said he is getting sick of getting calls on front load washers. His recommendation was to take it off the drawer riser to lower the center of weight. What I ended up doing instead was laying a piece of carpet on top and setting two 35 lb plates on top. That solved the problem. It really irritated me but I was glad I did not actually pay for the washer. Many other people I know that have frontloaders have not had this issue.

As far as the washer getting moldy, we have not had a problem with that. After running a load, we just leave the washer open. The gaskets and drum dry easily and we have had no issues. As for detergent, we bought HE detergent initially - it is no more expensive if you shop around - but now I avoid all that and just make my own laundry detergent. It is incredibly cheap and works awesome. Recipe:

1 bar Fels Naptha soap
1 cup Washing Soda (I use Arm and Hammer)
1/2 cup Borax

Put 4 cups hot water in a pan. Grate the Fels Naptha and add it to the pan, stir over medium-low heat until the soap is melted and dissolved.

Fill a 5 gallon bucket halfway with hot water. Add the melted soap, the washing soda and the borax - stir well until all dissolved. Top the bucket off to the 5 gal mark with hot water. Stir, put a cover on it and let it sit overnight where it will thicken. If you like, you could add 10-15 drops of essential oil here. I do not.

To use the detergent, I recycled an old Tide liquid container. Fill the container (or any suitable container to pour out soap) half with the soap and then half with water (I use a glass measuring cup). You need to shake the container each time before you use it as it will gel. The total yield of detergent is 10 gallons (5x2).

Top loader - 5/8 cup per load (about 180 loads)
Front loader - 1/4 cup per load (about 640 loads)

This detergent is awesome. The recipe is from the Duggars (the quiverful people with 20some kids) who likely know something about laundry. Zero issues with our clothes or the HE washer. No excessive sudsing, etc.... it takes me about 20 minutes to make it and 10 gallons of detergent lasts months. The costs is extremely inexpensive - probably $7 gets you all the parts and you would only need to rebuy the Fels Naptha bar (.99 cents) to make it again.
 
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