Damn Comfortable Shave

[Esox]

When is the real test?

 

[albsat]

View attachment 951862

In the mail today. Thater two band.

Finally! Waiting for a comparison test with the Zenith ones you have.

 

[Cal]

In the mail today. Thater two band.

When is the real test?

Finally! Waiting for a comparison test with the Zenith ones you have.

Your large audience awaits your report on the first test drive with some impatience.

 

[Esox]

As long as it doesnt break!

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Your large audience awaits your report on the first test drive with some impatience.

Some?

 

[Esox]

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Is there a book running yet?

My money's on the knot staying in tact, and the handle falling in half.


Sorry Jim

 

[Esox]

Is there a book running yet?

My money's on the knot staying in tact, and the handle falling in half.


Sorry Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Yep, dont be shy with the oil. When I use an oil stone, I have no idea how many drops of oil I use, but its a puddle larger than a quarter. If I can watch the oil flow as I move the edge over the stone I'm good. If I cant, I add more. The same as water. When I use my Arkansas I keep a small plastic container half full of water beside me with an old toothbrush in it. As the water goes away I give the stone a swipe with the toothbrush. Water and oil is cheaper than stones and blades lol.

The more accurately you can maintain the angle, the better the finish on the edge will be.

Interesting, Mike.

Seems to me more oil gets in the way. I think it gives the edge too much cushion. A thinner lubricant seems to work better for me. Not too thin though. WD-40 + 3 drops of oil seemed to be the right amount, but that was just one honing session with one stone, the Hard Translucent Arkansas.

I have noticed during other honing sessions (particularly with only honing oil) that the oil seemed too thick. Just water or soapy water on the Ark is not to my liking, and seems too thin or something.

It's not like I know anything here. I'm fumbling along at best.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Esox]

Interesting, Mike.

Seems to me more oil gets in the way. I think it gives the edge too much cushion. A thinner lubricant seems to work better for me. Not too thin though. WD-40 + 3 drops of oil seemed to be the right amount, but that was just one honing session with one stone, the Hard Translucent Arkansas.

I have noticed during other honing sessions (particularly with only honing oil) that the oil seemed too thick. Just water or soapy water on the Ark is not to my liking, and seems too thin or something.

It's not like I know anything here. I'm fumbling along at best.

Happy shaves,

Jim

Yeah, a thinner oil might work better I guess with how fine the stone is and how fine an edge you're working on. I cant say I've ever worked an edge that fine.

Water has a different feel than oil yep. I know exactly what you mean.

 

[Somerled]

I think honing oil is really meant for use with chisels and other carpentry tools where pressure is used when honing.
With straights you don't want to use much pressure at all.
When I tried to use the honing oil I have it seemed to me that the blade was just floating on the surface.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Tuesday's shave was accomplished.

I'll further assess the shave later in the day.

The new Thater 2 band is a decent enough brush. It's very soft. It has decent backbone. It is not, to my taste, in the league with the Zenith Manchurians, but I'm not knocking the Thater. One use doesn't tell me as much as I'll know after a few more uses either.

Today's new vintage razor seemed very sharp and comfortable. Was it as good as yesterday's blade? Maybe. I'm not sure yet. It was in the league with the brush I used yesterday.

This Serum is great stuff.

More later on this shave, the brush, and my recent honing efforts and results.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Esox]

I think honing oil is really meant for use with chisels and other carpentry tools where pressure is used when honing.

I use Outers Gun Oil one my oil stone. Its about the same as 10w/30. My father used 3 in 1.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I'm pretty pleased, or more than that, with my two most recently honed, stropped, and paste finished razors.

My honing process with these razors is, for the most part, nothing new. Just my usual progression.

• Bevel set via the burr method with the 1K.
• Some time on the 3K.
• Same with the 5K.
• On both the 3K and the 5K I spend a bit of extra time as I regard these as part of the fundamental sharpening process.
• On the 8K I spend a bit less time.
• Same with the 12K.
• Finally, I finished the actual honing on the Hard Translucent Arkansas.

On the Ark, I used WD-40 with only three drops of Norton's honing oil. That's a decrease in the oil and I think it made the lubricant the exactly right viscosity for me. Not too thick. Not too thin.

Here's another change: Following the Arkansas finishing stone I stropped the razor on leather about fifty round trips. This is a new step for me. Just something I was trying. I think maybe it made a difference.



The top strop is my leather strop. The rectangular strop is coated with Red. The black strop, with Black. The linen strop's back has CrOx.

I did that stropping prior to my final work.

• Stropping on linen coated with CrOx.
• Stropping on English bridle coated with the Red.
• Stropping on a small black strop coated with the Black.
• Then, my usual post honing and pasting leather stropping.

These two razors have the best edges of any straights I've used. Why?

• I'm getting better. My honing moves are better. I'm making fewer mistakes. I'm becoming more precise.
• The post honing and pre-paste leather stropping made a big difference.
• These two razors (one German, one American) are better than other razors; I find this very doubtful.

These are the actual stones involved.

• 1K (Naniwa New Chosera)
• 3K (Naniwa S2 Super Stone)
• 5K (Shapton Kuromaku Ceramic Waterstone)
• 8K (Steelex Deluxe Japanese Ceramic Waterstone)
• 12K (Shapton Kuromaku Ceramic Waterstone)
• Hard Translucent Arkansas (HTA) finishing stone

The results of my most recent process have convinced me all of my razors need to go back to the stones and the process for a bit more work. I'm not sure how far back in the process to go. I'm thinking of going back to the 5K or the 8K but maybe just going back to the 12K would be sufficient. It's hard to know.

Lots to learn when it comes to honing, stropping, and the pastes.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I think honing oil is really meant for use with chisels and other carpentry tools where pressure is used when honing.
With straights you don't want to use much pressure at all.
When I tried to use the honing oil I have it seemed to me that the blade was just floating on the surface.

Add some WD-40 and use less oil until that goes away. I know exactly what you mean.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

In my shave report this morning, my razor was in the league with yesterday's razor. Not yesterday's brush. Sorry.

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I use Outers Gun Oil one my oil stone. Its about the same as 10w/30. My father used 3 in 1.

View attachment 952103

I've thought of using 3 in 1, Mike. I think it would be the right viscosity or very close. Maybe your dad nailed it.

 

[Somerled]

I tried 3 in 1, too thick. As was the Lansky's honing oil.

I'll either try diluting with WD40, as you say Jim. Or try some gun oil, as @Seveneighth says.
I've also seen mentioned, bicycle oil and sewing machine oil.

Jim, your obviously doing something right with your honing setup. Like me your constantly tweaking it here and there, and also like me your going back to previously honed razors and re-doing them.

All part of the learning process.

 

[Seveneighth]

I'm pretty pleased, or more than that, with my two most recently honed, stropped, and paste finished razors.

View attachment 952133

My honing process with these razors is, for the most part, nothing new. Just my usual progression.

• Bevel set via the burr method with the 1K.
• Some time on the 3K.
• Same with the 5K.
• On both the 3K and the 5K I spend a bit of extra time as I regard these as part of the fundamental sharpening process.
• On the 8K I spend a bit less time.
• Same with the 12K.
• Finally, I finished the actual honing on the Hard Translucent Arkansas.

On the Ark, I used WD-40 with only three drops of Norton's honing oil. That's a decrease in the oil and I think it made the lubricant the exactly right viscosity for me. Not too thick. Not too thin.

Here's another change: Following the Arkansas finishing stone I stropped the razor on leather about fifty round trips. This is a new step for me. Just something I was trying. I think maybe it made a difference.

View attachment 952140 View attachment 952141

The top strop is my leather strop. The rectangular strop is coated with Red. The black strop, with Black. The linen strop's back has CrOx.

I did that stropping prior to my final work.

• Stropping on linen coated with CrOx.
• Stropping on English bridle coated with the Red.
• Stropping on a small black strop coated with the Black.
• Then, my usual post honing and pasting leather stropping.

These two razors have the best edges of any straights I've used. Why?

• I'm getting better. My honing moves are better. I'm making fewer mistakes. I'm becoming more precise.
• The post honing and pre-paste leather stropping made a big difference.
• These two razors (one German, one American) are better than other razors; I find this very doubtful.

These are the actual stones involved.

• 1K (Naniwa New Chosera)
• 3K (Naniwa S2 Super Stone)
• 5K (Shapton Kuromaku Ceramic Waterstone)
• 8K (Steelex Deluxe Japanese Ceramic Waterstone)
• 12K (Shapton Kuromaku Ceramic Waterstone)
• Hard Translucent Arkansas (HTA) finishing stone

The results of my most recent process have convinced me all of my razors need to go back to the stones and the process for a bit more work. I'm not sure how far back in the process to go. I'm thinking of going back to the 5K or the 8K but maybe just going back to the 12K would be sufficient. It's hard to know.

Lots to learn when it comes to honing, stropping, and the pastes.

Happy shaves,

Jim

I remember now!! We have discussed the progression in the past. I am losing it.

I think I am the only person in the world who doesn't like the Chosera 1k. Almost every time I've used it I have created an uneven bevel. It's just too fast. I prefer the 1200 DMT plate or a natural Bevel setter.

I do like using the synthetic progression with stainless blades. Using a coticule with a stainless blade through February I have been shocked how well it chewed through the metal.

There are a couple of interesting Naniwas you may also like to look into. Keith Johnson has a great video comparing 8k stones

I got a couple of nice Naniwas from Amazon UK, don't know if they are on the US site:

Naniwa abrasive Mfg Gouken -Hayabusa DX Whetstone for Pro #4000 QA-0354 (Japan Import) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008R61R24



Naniwa 8000 Japanese Tool Sharpening Water Stone https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001O2VHM8/

There is this one as well:

NANIWA Japanese Professional Deluxe Whetstone GOUKEN FUJI Finishing #8000 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008R61R88

Based on advice I have included a 2k in my progression. Actually I prefer bevel setting on that to the 1k.

 

[Seveneighth]

I tried 3 in 1, too thick. As was the Lansky's honing oil.

I'll either try diluting with WD40, as you say Jim. Or try some gun oil, as @Seveneighth says.
I've also seen mentioned, bicycle oil and sewing machine oil.

Jim, your obviously doing something right with your honing setup. Like me your constantly tweaking it here and there, and also like me your going back to previously honed razors and re-doing them.

All part of the learning process.

I think Jim's dilution and quantities are good. It's similar to what I do with my Charnley Forest.