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Custom Shavemac

I enjoy using a wide variety of brushes that display many different characteristics. I don't usually go for small brushes but travel with a Simpson Major which always makes me think I should pick up a few other smaller sizes. The one deal killer for me is scritch, so no longer have a Rooney Finest, Plisson or Shavemac D01 2-band; those were expensive lessons.

While I regularly fall in & out of love with various brushes, Shavemac really offers something unique in their "Experts Select" custom ordering service. Other makers (especially Lee at M&F and Mark at Simpson) will put together a custom order but Shavemac takes the whole process to the next level. They let you pick from 7 handle shapes, 7 colors, 5 hair types, 3 knot shapes, 11 knot diameters, 14 loft heights and an endless number of engraving options.

I ordered the brush on the right on 2/18 and it was shipped 2/21; now that's customer service. Let me say that the stock brushes at Shavemac and all the other well-known makers are excellent and will easily meet the needs of those OCD shavers who stay on their meds. But for those who feel the need to fill a hole in their collection that only they can identify, Experts Select is the solution.

I pulled two of my other Shavemacs out to put in the photo as it would seem I have 3 very similar brushes. They are all Silvertip D01 3-bands, fairly close in size, which begs the question as to why have all three. One thing I learned from Rudy Vey is that you can count on the consistency of Shavemac knots so when you start tinkering with dimensions, you can have confidence about the outcome. The three bushes above offer quite different shaving experiences. The new brush is 28.5-47 which gives it a loft/knot ratio of 1.65. This is a short loft for this size knot using the characteristically densely packed D01. As always, the tips are fabulously soft but the backbone is over the top giving a scrubby (in a good way) massaging face feel that is hard to find without also getting the hated scritch. Because you generally get little bloom from a dense short lofted brush I ordered it with a fan shape. The middle brush is 27-51 and one of my favorites. Loft/knot ratio 1.89 leaves it with plenty of backbone and it's an ideal face lathering brush with a bulb knot. The brush on the left is 25-53 with a 2.12 ratio. To be honest I bought it for the cool limited edition natural horn handle but the knot is fantastic and the densest packed of the three.

OK, I'm off to look at the Simpson LE page.

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Very nice brushes. I've been to that Shavemac site many times playing with combinations of the D01 Silvertip. I've narrowed it down, but have yet to buy. Trying to restrain myself for now, so it will have to wait until later in the year. Are you saying a 2:1 loft/knot ratio is the way to go? I've been looking at a 23 or 24 bulb.
 
Excellent post and pic. I have one Shavemac. It's a Rudy Vey custom 24/48 D01 3 band fan with a real briarwood resin stabilized handle. The brush is excellent and the D01 hair is to me just perfect. For my next brush I think I will go slightly below the 2:1 ratio for some additional backbone but other than that there's not much else to improve upon besides possibly a bulb shape next time.
 
Are you saying a 2:1 loft/knot ratio is the way to go? I've been looking at a 23 or 24 bulb.

No, the ratio really depends on your preference. I like variety and enjoy having a different experience depending on the brush I use. In my experience with Shavemac custom brushes the knots measured at the top of the handle are generally larger than spec. My guess is that this is because they measure the base of the knot (this is totally speculation on my part). So my new 28mm brush was ordered as a 25mm. Based on past experience I knew it would be larger (especially with the short loft) so I adjusted my order accordingly. I don't know your preferences so can't make a specific recommendation but will say a 24-50 is a sweet-spot for many guys. The fact is I've never been disappointed with any D01 3-band I've used. There are brushes that I enjoy just as much (Rooney XL even more) but these are consistently superb.
 

Rudy Vey

Shaving baby skin and turkey necks
No, the ratio really depends on your preference. I like variety and enjoy having a different experience depending on the brush I use. In my experience with Shavemac custom brushes the knots measured at the top of the handle are generally larger than spec. My guess is that this is because they measure the base of the knot (this is totally speculation on my part). So my new 28mm brush was ordered as a 25mm. Based on past experience I knew it would be larger (especially with the short loft) so I adjusted my order accordingly. I don't know your preferences so can't make a specific recommendation but will say a 24-50 is a sweet-spot for many guys. The fact is I've never been disappointed with any D01 3-band I've used. There are brushes that I enjoy just as much (Rooney XL even more) but these are consistently superb.

You are right, the size of the brush is, what I call it, "nominal" size. The effective size, i.e. what comes out of the handle is always more, and depending on the brush size can be as much as 3 mm (or even more....). But, in the smaller sizes 20-24 mm, I think it is true to say 1-2 mm more than what the nominal size is.
 
Those are some great looking brushes. I recently got my first custom Shavemac: a 25x52 D01 2-band fan with a 944 handle in blue marble. It's just an incredible brush.

You are right, the size of the brush is, what I call it, "nominal" size. The effective size, i.e. what comes out of the handle is always more, and depending on the brush size can be as much as 3 mm (or even more....). But, in the smaller sizes 20-24 mm, I think it is true to say 1-2 mm more than what the nominal size is.

Though I haven't measured my brush, the knot is definitely wider than 25mm at the top of the handle. I had read about this phenomenon, so when I ordered, I specified a smaller diameter than what I wanted and it worked out perfectly.
 
Great post Face...Shavemacs are awesome brushes. my silvertip D01 is ultra soft and still had great backbone, it was customer ordered by myself in a material not shown on his site.

the 2 band D01 has scrub...but good scrub. i had no idea what scrub was until i go this brush. it's soft and scrubby and a great addition to my collection.

i have included actually measurements that I just took, so you can see the variation in knot size....i knew this going in and confirmed with Bernd, so got my loft to match what I wanted in the custom.

this one was ordered as 24/50 by ME. (D01 Silvertip on reverse)
Shavemac D01 3 Band Fan

Weight: 67.9 g
Overall Height: 99.10 mm
Handle Height: 50.00 mm
Knot Loft: 49.10 mm
Knot Diameter: 25.36 mm

this one was bought used, and believe it was ordered as 25/50 from the original owner (engraved on bottom)
Shavemac D01 2 Band Fan

Weight: 73.0 g
Overall Height: 99.32 mm
Handle Height: 48.37 mm
Knot Loft: 50.95 mm
Knot Diameter: 27.30 mm
 
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I sincerely thank you for the Experts Select link. My wallet sincerely hates you for the same.

Seriously, I have been wondering how one orders a custom brush with D01 hair, since it doesn't seem to be an option on the main Customs page. I was beginning to think the only way was direct email with Shavemac. Thanks, I'll add a D01 custom to the "Someday" list!
 
Where can you find out the handle size on the Experts Select page? I want to order one similar to a 438, but I want it custom. Nothing says mine better then the word custom. I use a DB 1.5 and I like the longer handles so the brush doesn't clink making lather.
 
Where can you find out the handle size on the Experts Select page? I want to order one similar to a 438, but I want it custom. Nothing says mine better then the word custom. I use a DB 1.5 and I like the longer handles so the brush doesn't clink making lather.

Ah yes, the 438, the Kate Moss of handles. Drop Bernd an email and tell him what you'd like.
 
I have a custom shavemac silvertip 28/48. I echo your thoughts: it is super dense while somehow managing to be very soft. Like a very firm luxurious mop. Love my shavemac. If only shipping to the us weren't so expensive!
 
I have a custom shavemac silvertip 28/48. I echo your thoughts: it is super dense while somehow managing to be very soft. Like a very firm luxurious mop. Love my shavemac. If only shipping to the us weren't so expensive!

I paid $10 to have mine shipped, FedEx, customs cleared and fully tracked.

I paid more then they the other night to have 2 inks for my FP to be shipped from WCS to CAD
 
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