Everyone posting conventional wisdom is right, assuming by “bevel setting” they mean “going to the coarsest stone”. Using something like a DMT1200 is a one time event, but I’ll drop back to a coarse Washita or 5k synthetic for the deeper reset. Not coarse enough to leave big scratches but coarse enough to definitely remove steel and expose a fresh apex.
Cartridge to R41 to Cut-Throat
- Thread starter Jakebullet
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Everyone posting conventional wisdom is right, assuming by “bevel setting” they mean “going to the coarsest stone”. Using something like a DMT1200 is a one time event, but I’ll drop back to a coarse Washita or 5k synthetic for the deeper reset. Not coarse enough to leave big scratches but coarse enough to definitely remove steel and expose a fresh apex.
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- #322
Shave 204
Whilst on holiday I asked a guy in an antique shop if he ever got any cutthroats and he said he had one and pulled up this from below the counter.
I checked it was straight and had no rust or chips on the edge and was for the most part in decent condition. I paid him £10 for it and got it home. It had a lot of old oil on it and wouldn’t shave my arm hair. When I got home I took it to the films. I reset the bevel and took it through the progression down to 0.3micron. I had shave with it yesterday and it was lovely and smooth and gave me a great shave. I used it again today and it was better again as I acclimatise to it. It has a great smooth feel to it, more so than my other razors. It seems to like a slightly different angle to my other razors. It seems to work best flatter to the face.
It’s German and from what I can gather it was made around 1924-30. It’s a bit tatty in places with a few scratches and stains here and there but I like how it shaves so I’m going to keep using it for a while, and for nearly a century old it doesn’t look too bad.
Whilst on holiday I asked a guy in an antique shop if he ever got any cutthroats and he said he had one and pulled up this from below the counter.
I checked it was straight and had no rust or chips on the edge and was for the most part in decent condition. I paid him £10 for it and got it home. It had a lot of old oil on it and wouldn’t shave my arm hair. When I got home I took it to the films. I reset the bevel and took it through the progression down to 0.3micron. I had shave with it yesterday and it was lovely and smooth and gave me a great shave. I used it again today and it was better again as I acclimatise to it. It has a great smooth feel to it, more so than my other razors. It seems to like a slightly different angle to my other razors. It seems to work best flatter to the face.
It’s German and from what I can gather it was made around 1924-30. It’s a bit tatty in places with a few scratches and stains here and there but I like how it shaves so I’m going to keep using it for a while, and for nearly a century old it doesn’t look too bad.
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- #323
My razors all need a touch up.
My Henckels Friodur I’m going to try to bring back with the linen strop as suggested by Namkcakram but my Thomas Turner and my newly acquired ELSINE, I decided to take back to the films in search of a super sharp edge. Each time I Hone something I learn more.
So I set up the acrylic block and laid a piece of damp notepaper down on it then added a new sheet of 1 micron film. I did a full 100 laps on it to try out some advice I was given on an earlier post. I did the first 60 laps with good firm pressure and torqued the blade into the block, I also raised the block towards me when doing a downstroke and raised it away from me on the upstroke. After 60 laps I made my way up to 100 lightening the pressure progressively every 10 laps until the last 10 were done with barely the weight of the blade. Then I replaced the 1u film with a 0.3 and did exactly the same again. I did this for both razors. My girlfriend kindly donated a hair for the HHT. The first time I honed the ELSINE I couldn’t really get it to slice hanging hair but it did shave well, although it filled quickly but I just knew I could get it a lot sharper. Well this time it sliced easily through the hair all along the blade with a soft ping, and my Thomas Turner didn't even ping, the hair just fell silently in two wherever it touched the blade. As far as the HHT goes this is the best I’ve ever gotten so I’m really looking forward to tomorrow’s shave now. Not sure which razor ill use yet but if the HHT is anything to go by I’ll be in for great results fingers crossed.
My Henckels Friodur I’m going to try to bring back with the linen strop as suggested by Namkcakram but my Thomas Turner and my newly acquired ELSINE, I decided to take back to the films in search of a super sharp edge. Each time I Hone something I learn more.
So I set up the acrylic block and laid a piece of damp notepaper down on it then added a new sheet of 1 micron film. I did a full 100 laps on it to try out some advice I was given on an earlier post. I did the first 60 laps with good firm pressure and torqued the blade into the block, I also raised the block towards me when doing a downstroke and raised it away from me on the upstroke. After 60 laps I made my way up to 100 lightening the pressure progressively every 10 laps until the last 10 were done with barely the weight of the blade. Then I replaced the 1u film with a 0.3 and did exactly the same again. I did this for both razors. My girlfriend kindly donated a hair for the HHT. The first time I honed the ELSINE I couldn’t really get it to slice hanging hair but it did shave well, although it filled quickly but I just knew I could get it a lot sharper. Well this time it sliced easily through the hair all along the blade with a soft ping, and my Thomas Turner didn't even ping, the hair just fell silently in two wherever it touched the blade. As far as the HHT goes this is the best I’ve ever gotten so I’m really looking forward to tomorrow’s shave now. Not sure which razor ill use yet but if the HHT is anything to go by I’ll be in for great results fingers crossed.
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- #324
I was in a rush today and so used my R41 with an Astra SP blade and a Palmolive shave stick. Such a close shave but just nowhere near as good as my straight shaves. A sharper blade? It certainly feels like it on my face but it just doesn’t compare for smoothness and accuracy and comfort and the post shave softness. The R41 is ruthless, clinical, efficient, brilliant, but the straight shave, although more work, time and care are needed (all very enjoyable) it’s just on another level.
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- #325
Shave 206 and 1 on the Turner.
I was full of optimism for this razor this morning after last night’s honing. I usually give it 40 smart laps on the linen following a honing then 50 on leather but today I wanted to feel how it was pretty much straight from the film. So I gave it a few very light laps on the linen then 50 on the leather. I lathered with Proraso Green and a boar brush and got going. Straight away I could feel that while definitely sharp it was lacking that special face feel I get from a really great edge. I completed the shave and got a mostly bbs all over but I wasn’t happy as I’d expected more. So I took it to the linen for 40 smart laps. I could feel as I was doing it the blade smoothing out with each pass. Then I gave it another 50 on leather. Looking forward to seeing if this has dialled it in properly.
Moral of the story for me is that I need that linen strop to get rid of any microscopic wire edges.
As I was drying the razor I dropped it. I just Ali shuffled my feet out of the way in time but I winced as the 1950s blade with a brand new 2019 edge clattered onto the tile floor. I picked her up expecting to see a ton of damage to the fragile edge, but was relieved to see no damage under the loup.
I was full of optimism for this razor this morning after last night’s honing. I usually give it 40 smart laps on the linen following a honing then 50 on leather but today I wanted to feel how it was pretty much straight from the film. So I gave it a few very light laps on the linen then 50 on the leather. I lathered with Proraso Green and a boar brush and got going. Straight away I could feel that while definitely sharp it was lacking that special face feel I get from a really great edge. I completed the shave and got a mostly bbs all over but I wasn’t happy as I’d expected more. So I took it to the linen for 40 smart laps. I could feel as I was doing it the blade smoothing out with each pass. Then I gave it another 50 on leather. Looking forward to seeing if this has dialled it in properly.
Moral of the story for me is that I need that linen strop to get rid of any microscopic wire edges.
As I was drying the razor I dropped it. I just Ali shuffled my feet out of the way in time but I winced as the 1950s blade with a brand new 2019 edge clattered onto the tile floor. I picked her up expecting to see a ton of damage to the fragile edge, but was relieved to see no damage under the loup.
Yeah I find media that are prone to “artifacting” edges really need the linen strop. My first couple self honed edges were aluminum oxide friable Imanishi synthetic stones, and honestly I felt very little difference in edge quality between the “5k” stone and the “8k” stone, but if I didn’t linen strop either edge enough my face would let me know right away!
Coming off Arkansas stones or Les Latneuses hybrids I do very little linen like you tried and the results are just the slightest bit prone to cutting skin until about shave 3, and then smooth sailing with an edge that feels “safe” and you can get away with things like scything motions that I wouldn’t try with an ultra keen synthetic edge while still being plenty keen for ATG everywhere.
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- #327
Shave 207 and 2 on the Turner.
Lathered with TOBS Eton College and a badger brush.
I was immediately very pleased as, after yesterday’s stropping on the linen, my newly honed Turner just sang it’s way through the beard today, beautiful.
Today I made (or noticed) my first technical advancement in a good while. It’s hard to explain but today I was just better at isolating all areas even the tricky ones, making subtle adjustments in blade angle, pressure, torque and how I was stretching. It was quite a marked improvement. I just seemed suddenly able to understand the puzzle with a lot more depth and clarity. The result is I’ve got one of my best ever shaves, if not the best I’ve done and I did it a lot quicker than I usually do. It was a welcome surprise as I hadn’t seen a noticeable improvement in about the last 100 shaves and then to suddenly take a good leap forward like this is great.
I had a lovely cold rinse and burnt my face off with a splash of Fine Snakebite. I’m looking forward to tomorrow.
Lathered with TOBS Eton College and a badger brush.
I was immediately very pleased as, after yesterday’s stropping on the linen, my newly honed Turner just sang it’s way through the beard today, beautiful.
Today I made (or noticed) my first technical advancement in a good while. It’s hard to explain but today I was just better at isolating all areas even the tricky ones, making subtle adjustments in blade angle, pressure, torque and how I was stretching. It was quite a marked improvement. I just seemed suddenly able to understand the puzzle with a lot more depth and clarity. The result is I’ve got one of my best ever shaves, if not the best I’ve done and I did it a lot quicker than I usually do. It was a welcome surprise as I hadn’t seen a noticeable improvement in about the last 100 shaves and then to suddenly take a good leap forward like this is great.
I had a lovely cold rinse and burnt my face off with a splash of Fine Snakebite. I’m looking forward to tomorrow.
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- #328
Shave 210 today.
Yesterday and the day before I used my freshly honed ELSINE which I found in an old antique shop and honed up. This thing is brilliant and what it lacks in looks (a few scratches and marks and the scales could do with replacing) it makes up for in performance. For whatever reason this 7/8th near century old blade really agrees with my face. It’s got that great blend of silky smoothness coupled with brilliant sharpness.
Today I used my Turner & Co for the 3rd time since honing and just smiled all the way through the shave as the thing just whispered right through every thing it touched. I’m so happy with how this shaving thing is going and I’m very happy to be self sufficient in creating and maintaining an great edge on my straights. I’m no expert, far from it, but it’s like being able to make fire.
Yesterday and the day before I used my freshly honed ELSINE which I found in an old antique shop and honed up. This thing is brilliant and what it lacks in looks (a few scratches and marks and the scales could do with replacing) it makes up for in performance. For whatever reason this 7/8th near century old blade really agrees with my face. It’s got that great blend of silky smoothness coupled with brilliant sharpness.
Today I used my Turner & Co for the 3rd time since honing and just smiled all the way through the shave as the thing just whispered right through every thing it touched. I’m so happy with how this shaving thing is going and I’m very happy to be self sufficient in creating and maintaining an great edge on my straights. I’m no expert, far from it, but it’s like being able to make fire.
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- #329
Shave 213 and 4 on the Turner
A great shave today, the Turner really is a great razor to use. It’s quite small at 5/8th and really well balanced and manoeuvrable. It cuts quickly and smoothly and closely and more importantly it likes my face. Yesterday I did shave number 3 (since honing) with my equally nice ELSINE. The shave felt very smooth and on a whim I decided to break out the old alum bar as I hadn’t used it in 6 months maybe more. Well the thing burned like fire everywhere it touched. I left it on for 2 mins while I cleaned the razor then rinsed then I had a splash of Snakebite which I wasn’t really expecting to burn at all. Whoosh! My face was on fire again. I was feeling my face after and it felt super smooth but then I glanced in the mirror and saw a terrible shaving rash all over my face and neck too. It cleared up over the course of the day to leave my face clear again. Was the alum responsible? Or was it that my face has become unaccustomed to it? My face burned for ages after using it, maybe I didn’t wash it off completely. Either way I don’t think I’ll use it again.
A great shave today, the Turner really is a great razor to use. It’s quite small at 5/8th and really well balanced and manoeuvrable. It cuts quickly and smoothly and closely and more importantly it likes my face. Yesterday I did shave number 3 (since honing) with my equally nice ELSINE. The shave felt very smooth and on a whim I decided to break out the old alum bar as I hadn’t used it in 6 months maybe more. Well the thing burned like fire everywhere it touched. I left it on for 2 mins while I cleaned the razor then rinsed then I had a splash of Snakebite which I wasn’t really expecting to burn at all. Whoosh! My face was on fire again. I was feeling my face after and it felt super smooth but then I glanced in the mirror and saw a terrible shaving rash all over my face and neck too. It cleared up over the course of the day to leave my face clear again. Was the alum responsible? Or was it that my face has become unaccustomed to it? My face burned for ages after using it, maybe I didn’t wash it off completely. Either way I don’t think I’ll use it again.
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- #330
Shave 214 and 4 on the ELSINE.
Lathered with a Speick shave stick and a boar brush and got to work. The Speick makes a great lather I’d forgotten how good it is.
The ELSINE was really on its best behaviour today on use number 4, super smooth and effortlessly sharp. Even on pass 3 atg on my top lip it was smooth and sharp. When rinsing the blade my finger slid very slightly on the edge which sank effortlessly under the skin but miraculously stopped short of cutting me leaving a very very thin flap of skin separated from the finger. Very lucky and a reminder of how crazy sharp this thing is edge on. On the cold rinse I could tell my face was extremely soft and smooth courtesy of a very sharp blade and a lovely soap. I had a big splash of Floid Vigoroso and got on my way.
Lathered with a Speick shave stick and a boar brush and got to work. The Speick makes a great lather I’d forgotten how good it is.
The ELSINE was really on its best behaviour today on use number 4, super smooth and effortlessly sharp. Even on pass 3 atg on my top lip it was smooth and sharp. When rinsing the blade my finger slid very slightly on the edge which sank effortlessly under the skin but miraculously stopped short of cutting me leaving a very very thin flap of skin separated from the finger. Very lucky and a reminder of how crazy sharp this thing is edge on. On the cold rinse I could tell my face was extremely soft and smooth courtesy of a very sharp blade and a lovely soap. I had a big splash of Floid Vigoroso and got on my way.
I've sliced some skin on my first finger the same way, and, like you, reminded me of how sharp we've made these razors.
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- #332
Shave. 216 and 4 each on the Turner & Co and the ELSINE.
Both of these razors are old, the ELSINE around 1930 and the Turner mid 1950’s at the latest and probably much older and both still shave to absolute perfection. It’s amazing really. I was in the supermarket yesterday and noticed that the cartridge blades I used to use are now £18 for 4. Which works out at easily £60 a year if I take it easy and tolerate dragging one of those little cartridges through my tough beard for a whole month at a time. That ELSINE cost me £10 having already lasted over a lifetime and would likely last another full lifetime maybe more, same with the Turner. Plus it’s edge is always super smooth and sharp and the shaves are brilliant, from the top drawer on the top floor. It clears my tough stubble like it’s nothing and leaves my face smoother than I ever dreamed possible. I now know I’ll never buy another throw away blade as long as I live. Im sitting here on my balcony with a whisky and a cigar feeling in touch with tones past and present .
Both of these razors are old, the ELSINE around 1930 and the Turner mid 1950’s at the latest and probably much older and both still shave to absolute perfection. It’s amazing really. I was in the supermarket yesterday and noticed that the cartridge blades I used to use are now £18 for 4. Which works out at easily £60 a year if I take it easy and tolerate dragging one of those little cartridges through my tough beard for a whole month at a time. That ELSINE cost me £10 having already lasted over a lifetime and would likely last another full lifetime maybe more, same with the Turner. Plus it’s edge is always super smooth and sharp and the shaves are brilliant, from the top drawer on the top floor. It clears my tough stubble like it’s nothing and leaves my face smoother than I ever dreamed possible. I now know I’ll never buy another throw away blade as long as I live. Im sitting here on my balcony with a whisky and a cigar feeling in touch with tones past and present .
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- #333
Shave 217 and 31 on the Henckels Friodur since last honing.
I haven’t used this for a few weeks as I felt it needed a touch up and I was going to try to bring it back to life on the linen strop. I usually strop on my 3inch strop but I was on holiday for a week and used a cheap 2inch strop which may have contributed to it losing its sharpness. But this morning I took it from the box and just gave it 100 laps on the 3 inch leather strop. I lathered up with Proraso green soap and a stiff boar brush and got started.
Straight away I could tell it felt smooth and it did the first pass beautifully, same xtg on pass 2. Then I gave it another quick 20 laps on the leather for my atg pass 3. Not bad at all, sharp and smooth and gave me a great bbs, looks like the Henckels is back! After the shave I gave it 40 laps of the linen looking to try to refresh that super sharp edge and see just how long it can go before a touch up.
I haven’t used this for a few weeks as I felt it needed a touch up and I was going to try to bring it back to life on the linen strop. I usually strop on my 3inch strop but I was on holiday for a week and used a cheap 2inch strop which may have contributed to it losing its sharpness. But this morning I took it from the box and just gave it 100 laps on the 3 inch leather strop. I lathered up with Proraso green soap and a stiff boar brush and got started.
Straight away I could tell it felt smooth and it did the first pass beautifully, same xtg on pass 2. Then I gave it another quick 20 laps on the leather for my atg pass 3. Not bad at all, sharp and smooth and gave me a great bbs, looks like the Henckels is back! After the shave I gave it 40 laps of the linen looking to try to refresh that super sharp edge and see just how long it can go before a touch up.
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- #334
Shave 218 and 32 on the Friodur . Today I used Tabac soap which I haven’t used in ages. What a brilliant lather it makes. Probably the best of all the soaps I have.
The Friodur was sharp and fast on pass one and 2 but I noticed on pass 3 it struggled slightly to get through the tough stuff on my top lip. While still cutting brilliantly and giving me a great shave I noticed I had to work a little for it mostly in the area mentioned. In the morning I’ll give it a good 50 on the linen and see if that can bring it right back to its best. If not a quick return to the films will sort it right out.
The Friodur was sharp and fast on pass one and 2 but I noticed on pass 3 it struggled slightly to get through the tough stuff on my top lip. While still cutting brilliantly and giving me a great shave I noticed I had to work a little for it mostly in the area mentioned. In the morning I’ll give it a good 50 on the linen and see if that can bring it right back to its best. If not a quick return to the films will sort it right out.
Make sure you’ve got the linen taught and use almost zero pressure. It’ll hopefully jump back to ~80% of new, but if not 32 is better than many people claim for comfortable 3 pass shaves!
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- #336
Shave 219 and 33 on the Friodur . I took your advice and gave it 40 very light laps on a tight linen strop then about 50 on leather. I tried the HHT and it sliced the hair nicely.
I lathered with Tabac again after the great shave it gave me yesterday and got going.
First two passes as always were lovely and smooth, so as usual I gave it 20 laps on leather and went atg. Very pleased to report that it cut pretty much perfectly again. No feeling of pulling just nice and smooth and sharp even on my top lip. I did a cold rinse then burned the skin off my face with that ol Fine Snakebite which suddenly stops burning, feels beautifully neutral, then plunges into icy deep freeze.
The post shave feel today is brilliant, super close, smooth and soft. Thanks a lot for the advice, it’s intersting to see just how long we can get this edge to last.
It’s pretty cool actually, I’m sure that’s what old timers mean when they talk about using both strop parts to make an edge last longer. Between that and good post shave blade maintenance I can definitely see going ~1yr comfortably on a 7 day set and then paying the local barber to hone them.
I feel like I usually re hone more often than I need to, but I’ll go the full 20-45 shaves and usually do one linen refresh along the way. For me there’s diminishing returns where the second linen refresh is needed faster than the first was and it will only bring the edge back to ~85% of what the first refresh did... by refresh 5 or so you’re only getting a handful of comfortable shaves and there’s a difference side by side with a freshly honed blade. But it’s really cool to test for science.
Also the whole time you’re doing this people will want to dismiss you because “my beard kills edges much faster than that”. Don’t worry though if you’re comparing side by side with fresher edges you’ll clearly have a reference for what you’re seeing.
I feel like I usually re hone more often than I need to, but I’ll go the full 20-45 shaves and usually do one linen refresh along the way. For me there’s diminishing returns where the second linen refresh is needed faster than the first was and it will only bring the edge back to ~85% of what the first refresh did... by refresh 5 or so you’re only getting a handful of comfortable shaves and there’s a difference side by side with a freshly honed blade. But it’s really cool to test for science.
Also the whole time you’re doing this people will want to dismiss you because “my beard kills edges much faster than that”. Don’t worry though if you’re comparing side by side with fresher edges you’ll clearly have a reference for what you’re seeing.
What’s real satisfying for me is to know how to maintain my collection and get the results I want. I’m sure I’ll evolve and not experiment so much, but now it’s fun.
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- #339
Yeah learning to look after your gear is part of the fun isn’t it? Plus it gives you the freedom to get the edge exactly how you like it. I enjoy getting the honing box out, on go the eye glasses out comes a glass of scotch and I get to work. I like the anticipation of the morning shave to see how I’ve done.
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- #340
Shave 222 and 5 on the Thomas Turner. This morning I read a thread about shaving before a shower so thought I’d give it a go. I soaked my face in warm water and lathered up some TOBS Jermyn Street cream which I picked up in a sale yesterday. It made a great full lather very easily and it has a great scent.
The first thing that struck me as I started the shave was that I could actually see myself clearly in the mirror. The shower always mists up the mirror to a white fog, which I periodically have to wipe with a wet hand just to see a misty sillhouette. I started cutting and did pass one and two. The hair on my face seemed coarser than usual, I thought that this was because I hadn’t showered yet, but then i realised that I’d completely forgotten to strop.
So I gave it about 70 laps on the strop until it felt smooth then went atg. Great smooth work then a touch up pass. I did a cold rinse, brushed my teeth, cleaned up then jumped in the shower. It was nice. When I got out I expected to feel very little burn from the aftershave. Silly old me because the Fine Snakebite scalded the face off me real nice before chilling it to the bone. My girl came into the bathroom as I was getting into the shower, ‘you just had a shave?’ .‘Yeah’. ‘Back to front day?’. ‘Yeah’.
The first thing that struck me as I started the shave was that I could actually see myself clearly in the mirror. The shower always mists up the mirror to a white fog, which I periodically have to wipe with a wet hand just to see a misty sillhouette. I started cutting and did pass one and two. The hair on my face seemed coarser than usual, I thought that this was because I hadn’t showered yet, but then i realised that I’d completely forgotten to strop.
So I gave it about 70 laps on the strop until it felt smooth then went atg. Great smooth work then a touch up pass. I did a cold rinse, brushed my teeth, cleaned up then jumped in the shower. It was nice. When I got out I expected to feel very little burn from the aftershave. Silly old me because the Fine Snakebite scalded the face off me real nice before chilling it to the bone. My girl came into the bathroom as I was getting into the shower, ‘you just had a shave?’ .‘Yeah’. ‘Back to front day?’. ‘Yeah’.
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