Cartridge to R41 to Cut-Throat

[Jakebullet]

Shave 223 and 3 on a ‘Shuredge’ 5/8th square point which was kindly sent to me honed on an Arkansas stone by @Namkcakram.
I face lathered with TOBS Jermyn Street Cream and a stiff but soft boar brush.
My shaves seem to be taking a long time, not that I’m complaining, so I took my phone in with me to see how long things were taking.
To run the tap hot, fill the mug, soak the boar, wet my face and make a great big face and brushful of lather took about 5 mins.
I was in no rush, the blade feels better and smoother every time I use it. Pass one wtg took 8 mins. I relathered, it took a minute then went for an xtg pass. The razor sang it was lovely, I was in no rush, the pass took about 7 mins.
I rinsed then gave the blade 20 quick laps on the strop and re-lathered which took a minute maybe 2. Then I went atg. My beard is coarse and tough. I can make the chin as smooth as a ball bearing but I have to be methodical. Short upwards strokes over tautly stretched skin. This pass took 9 mins with most of the time spent on my top lip and chin. Rinse then touch up pass which took 5mins. All in all about 40 mins but then I have to brush my teeth, clean the blade, 5x palm strop and 7x linen strop then dry inside the scales and put it in the box. Probably 10 mins all in. So that’s 50 mins plus 10 mins for a shower.
I could do it faster if I really tried and maybe tomorrow I’ll do a quickest possible shave and see how that pans out, but an hour in the bathroom of being calmly, intently focussed trying for a perfect job is too nice to rush.

 

[Jakebullet]

Shave 224 and 4 on the Shuredge.
Tried to move things along a bit time-wise this morning. I didn’t go crazy, I like my ears where they are, I just tried to be quicker. The lathering was a minute or 2 quicker at about 3 min. Hard to see how I’ll ever do this much quicker. Lathered with TOBS Jermyn Street, good stuff. Slick with a nice scent and easy to get a consistency which I like. Yesterday’s pass one was 8 mins, today it was 5min. Pass two yesterday took 7 mins, today it was 6 min. Pass three yesterday took 9 mins, today it took 7 min. The touch up took 3-6 min quicker over both days. So a little quicker but not enough to chase.

 

[Jakebullet]

Shave 225 and 5 on the ELSINE.
Lathered with TOBS Jermyn St.
The ELSINE is old, it’s not shiny, it’s scratched, it’s marked up, the scales are dull, it looks like it’s seen life. But 2 thin strips, one along the spine the other along the edge shine bright like twin polished mirrors just like they did on its first flight from the factory in Germany almost a century ago. It’s a look into the razors soul, and this old thing has still got it. It’s crazy sharp, it’s crazy smooth it gives a beautiful, excellent shave. It’s heart, this polished, gleaming, wicked edge is still young, just like on day one, thriving and cutting and glinting super bright into the 21st century.
I don’t know it’s path to me down the years. I don’t know where it’s been, what it’s seen, but today it gave me a great bbs shave just like it was made for all those years ago.

 

[Jakebullet]

Used the Muhle R41 today, as I was pushed for time. The R41 is like a jet plane, the cutthroat is like the Orient Express.

 

[Jakebullet]

Shave 226 and 34 on the Friodur.
TOBS Jermyn St cream, boar brush.
I stropped the Friodur on the leather. It felt a tiny bit scratchy at first but the more laps I gave it the smoother it felt until it was sliding easily up and down the strop. As soon as I started cutting I felt that sweet smoothness and sharpness from it, the big, heavy 7/8ths blade going through the soap and beard with soft rasps. Pass 2 was equally nice then I gave it 20 smooth laps on leather then went atg. This is where I find out just how sharp something really is and today it sailed beautifully through the hair in every direction on every point of my face. Got a brilliant smooth perfect shave. I continue to be surprised by it as I really do have a coarse beard. I only get one maybe 2 uses from a DE blade in my R41 so to get 34 x 4 pass shaves and still going strong is amazing.

 

[Namkcakram]

Shave 226 and 34 on the Friodur.
TOBS Jermyn St cream, boar brush.
I stropped the Friodur on the leather. It felt a tiny bit scratchy at first but the more laps I gave it the smoother it felt until it was sliding easily up and down the strop. As soon as I started cutting I felt that sweet smoothness and sharpness from it, the big, heavy 7/8ths blade going through the soap and beard with soft rasps. Pass 2 was equally nice then I gave it 20 smooth laps on leather then went atg. This is where I find out just how sharp something really is and today it sailed beautifully through the hair in every direction on every point of my face. Got a brilliant smooth perfect shave. I continue to be surprised by it as I really do have a coarse beard. I only get one maybe 2 uses from a DE blade in my R41 so to get 34 x 4 pass shaves and still going strong is amazing.

The REALLY crazy thing to think about is that it’s 2 shaves at ~19-22* bevel angle vs 34 shaves at 15-17* bevel angle.

And people always want to put manufactured blades on some kind of pedestal “if I could only get this premium steel straight to perform on par with a mass produced disposable...”. There’s way more performance locked away in most vintage straights than in any Mass produced razor blade.

 

[Jakebullet]

Shave 227 and 5 on the Shuredge.
I used TOBS Jermyn St with a boar brush.
The razor is light and smart and finds its favoured angle easily as it glides down the face.
I’d say this is the hollowest razor I’ve got and it makes a nice sound as it cuts, singing an especially sweet note across the grain. I’ve got the Turner & Co which was my first razor it’s in great condition, I’ve got 2 gold dollars which a friend sent me early on, I’ve got a NOS Henckels Friodur which is brilliant, I’ve got an ENSINE which I recently picked up from an antique shop and now the Shuredge which a friend sent me to experience an Arkansas stone finished edge. That’s 6 razors, more than I ever thought I’d own so why is it that I find myself wanting more?

 

[Jakebullet]

The REALLY crazy thing to think about is that it’s 2 shaves at ~19-22* bevel angle vs 34 shaves at 15-17* bevel angle.

And people always want to put manufactured blades on some kind of pedestal “if I could only get this premium steel straight to perform on par with a mass produced disposable...”. There’s way more performance locked away in most vintage straights than in any Mass produced razor blade.

Yeah very true, this is something I’m learning as I go. When I started I naively thought that steel was pretty much steel and the edge was all that mattered, but even with my limited experience I started to notice subtle differences in the way the different steels I’ve got behave, from DE blades and cheaper steel through to different finished steel and higher quality ones. I notice how they hone differently, feel differently on the face, hold an edge for different times etc. Age and condition seem to have nothing to do with it either, my older blades seem to be the smoothest and softest, some of my more beat up looking razors shave really amazingly.

 

[Jakebullet]

Shave 228 and 6 on the Thomas Turner & Co.
I used TOBS Jermyn St cream and a short loft badger brush which is nice and stiff for face lathering.

This was my first razor and the one my girl bought me for Christmas. It’s 5/8ths Hollw ground. I’m not sure of the age of it, the seller said 1950’s but who knows. If anyone could shed light on it I’d appreciate it. It’s what I learned to shave on, learned to hone on, cut my teeth on, cut my face on. It’s had more of my blood than any other razor I’ve used, often multiple cuts per shave, we’re almost related, family, blood brothers! And although I’ve learned how to use it properly now and haven’t been sliced up for many months I still keep a very close eye on the thing just in case it feels thirsty again.
She likes my face and I like hers. She’s nimble, smooth, sharp, old enough to be a great grandmother but still looks like a model. She takes a brilliant edge and gives the best shave I ever had. She was on great form today as was the lather. It’s Sunday so I took all the time in the world. I learned some new stretching techniques going atg on my top lip which I’m hoping will speed things up there nicely.
What a great cold rinse, one of my favourite parts of the shave then I gave my face some fire and ice with a splash of Fine Snakebite. When that cooled down and the scent died off I had a couple of sprays of Penhaligon’s English Fern then took my girls out for Sunday lunch.

 

[Jakebullet]

Shave 229 and 35 on the Friodur . Face Lathered with Proraso Red soap and a boar brush.
The Friodur has a nice, wide and heavy blade which makes it easy to do large areas quickly without rinsing the blade.
I was fast and loose with it today. It’s very well balanced, it wants to cut. After 35 uses it’s still brilliantly sharp. I was in a bit of a rush today so just did 3 passes no touch up and got a great fast shave and the amazing Friodur is still going strong, sharp as ever.

 

[Jakebullet]

Shave 231
I didn’t shave yesterday, I can’t remember the last time I missed a shave. I woke up today with a thick coarse wiry stubble all over my face. I looked in my razor box to choose a razor to do the job on this. I chose to use the Friodur as its heavy and sharp so got it out and stropped it for its 36th use since I last honed it.
I lathered with Proraso Green today and got going.
I don’t know if it was because I had a thicker stubble than usual but the razor felt extra sharp and smooth today. It seems to like having something to cut. I did all my passes and got a brilliant close shave with that soft skin feeling which you get after not shaving for a day or so.
Cold rinse and even the snake bite didn’t burn too badly which is a first.

 

[Jakebullet]

Shave 232 and 6 on the Suredge.
I used TOBS Eton College and a boar brush.
Great smooth bbs shave from the Shuredge as usual it’s a great little razor.
A friend sent me a Naniwa 12k stone in the post and it arrived yesterday.
I’ve got two gold dollars which I haven’t used for months so I took them both to the stone today. I sprayed it and held it in my hand as I honed making sure I kept my fingers out of the way.
The stone is white, smooth and cold to the touch, almost as wide as the blade but not quite so I held the blade at a slight angle so I could go simply back and forth. I never used x strokes with the lapping films as my acrylic block is as wide as my razors and I always get a lovely edge. Not sure how the stone will cut so it’s just a case of experimenting until I get the most from it. The first Gold dollar I gave 20 laps then 5 very light laps, this is the one I’ll try in the morning. The 2nd razor I gave it 20 laps then 20 circles on each side then 10 very light laps and I’ll try this one Monday, I used a little more torque on this razor to make sure I hit the end of the bevel.

 

[Jakebullet]

Shave 233 and 1 on Gold Dollar (A) since using the Naniwa 12k hone.
Lathered with TOBS Sandalwood hard soap and a boar brush.
I stropped the newly honed blade 40x on linen then 50x on leather and got to work.
As soon as i started cutting i felt that new edge smoothness and smiled. Pass one was smooth and easy and very close. Pass 2 xtg was the same but I noticed a very slight struggle going upwards on my neck. I gave it 20 on the leather strop, relathered and went for pass 3 atg. Again, it felt smooth and easy with no struggles, very sharp and I didn’t have to fight it anywhere.
I did a touch up pass too as usual. My face felt smooth so I rinsed and splashed on some Fine Snakebite, so far so good.
10 mins later feeling my face i noticed it was closely shaved but not so smooth feeling as usual. When I looked in the mirror it was slightly red, but not too bad. But now an hour later I can feel a slight stinging so I know I’ve made a quite rough edge even though it felt smooth. I may have done too many laps on the stone or maybe not enough stropping. Or maybe i used too much pressure it’s hard to know. But now as i type and I I feel it it’s gone really smooth so it seems it’s settled down. And now it actually feels great, though still slightly stingy.
I think ill strop it again on linen and try it again tomorrow. Gold Dollar B will have to wait until I’ve got a handle on this.

 

[Namkcakram]

I hate always being Debbie downer on Gold dollars, but once you find a good/consistent routine on your 12k you may have to take a freshly honed and test shaved nicer blade with .3mu edge to the Naniwa to see what it can really do.

I’ve bought a couple “shave ready” auction razors that actually were up to par and the sellers said they used a full Naniwa progression to either 10k or 12k, so it’s definitely a nice stone. The question is whether or not it’s any improvement over your .3 film.

You should get into X strokes, all the cool kids do it for a reason.

 

[Jakebullet]

Thanks for your advice as always it’s much appreciated.
What’s the advantage of the x stroke ?

 

[Namkcakram]

If you do it right you’ll reach every part of the edge more consistently. Theoretically if all your stones are flat you’ll be hitting the entire bevel, but in reality the X stroke creates a more consistent edge along the entire length. Also you can add in a windshield wiper arch to it to create a subtle smile which is the ideal edge profile.

 

[Jakebullet]

Shave 234 and 7 on the Turner & Co.
I was pressed for time today, but just had time for a straight shave. I lathered with TOBS Jermyn St and got going.
The blade felt fine no problems, but it didn’t seem to hit the top lip with its usual closeness atg. My first thought was to try it on the new Naniwa but as suggested by @Namkcakram this would be an ideal opportunity to see how the Naniwa really performs. So I think I’ll hit it first with 1u and 0.3u films then once I get one great shave from that, take it straight to the Naniwa 12k.

 

[Namkcakram]

I love that you take up these hair brained experiments of mine! I’ve never personally owned the 12k, but you know I think your .3 edges are very keen so I’m curious how itll work out.

 

[Jakebullet]

I love that you take up these hair brained experiments of mine! I’ve never personally owned the 12k, but you know I think your .3 edges are very keen so I’m curious how itll work out.

As you said it’s the only real way to compare them. From the one honing I’ve done on the 12k I’m going to guess that I get closer with that even though the .3 micron should be sharper In theory, but time will tell.

 

[Namkcakram]

Well now don’t get sucked into thinking particle size dictates edge quality on a linear scale... that logic applies within certain limits, but once you start to push the limits you find particle composition, geometry, and the actual cutting mechanisms can have a bigger impact. The Naniwa 12k is supposed to be around or just under 1mu particle size, but 1mu aluminum oxide(probably) in the right geometry bound together just right and then surface lapped just right could yield shallower scratches and a more perfectly straight cutting edge than .3mu harder or less geometrically ideal particles glued on a flat unforgiving surface and possibly cutting into the steel with nearly their full diameter.

And then you start getting into natural stones and that’s a much bigger can of worms.

Try some X strokes for your last finishing laps, just be sure to keep the portion on the stone flat against the stone. You might be really surprised.