James, thanks for the pointers. The puck is premixed carnauba and beeswax (80% carnauba) got it from a local furniture restorer. He'd already recommended the boiled linseed. I'm lining these scales with brass so I'll be able to repolish them if required.In the interest of full disclosure I don't know a great deal about straight razors. I do however have a good amount of experience with woodworking. Pure wax finishes are beautiful but fragile. First prep will be extremely important you will want to make sure you have worked up through at least 1500 grit paper to get a good result. Whitebar already told you about the necessity of a buffer for using a bar or puck of pure carnauba. I wouldn't recommend beeswax for this method of application. The melting point is much lower and can smear or even burn. But as you have both you can make your own all natural paste wax that is easy to apply. If you are interested PM me and I'll shoot you the recipe.
All that being said If you intend this to be a working razor, the finish could be easily eroded by any soap, cream, AS, or cologne that contains alcohol or other wax. If a product contains wax than it has been dissolved in a solvent, or it contains an emulsifying agent. Wax will also wear with use This is not a problem with pipes or fine furniture because these get re-polished regularly through repeated application of products like renaissance wax or the formulation I mentioned earlier. I would strongly recommend first giving the scales several coatings of pure tung oil, or boiled linseed oil. BTW if it does not say 100% pure tung oil, it isn't. This will protect the wood, provide a good base for final waxing, and is very easy to repair/maintain allowing the piece to age beautifully.
Hope this helps.
