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4 inch handle for my NEW

I am looking for a gold or brass colored 4 inch long handle to use with my Gillette NEW.
I shaved with my New yesterday, it delivers a great shave. The handle I have is only 3 inches long.

I really do not want to buy a custom handle due to the cost.

One option I found so far is the Equinox Old Fashioned Gold Double Edge Safety Razor:
$Equinox.jpg

Obviously, I am buying the razor just for the handle. It is a 3 piece.
Does anybody know for sure that this handle has the standard 10/32 thread?

I am also interested in other ideas.

The handle from my RazoRock Mission fits my New perfectly. It is a chrome handle, and I guess that is what I will use
if I can't come up with a brass or gold colored handle at reasonable cost.

I know there is a lot of knowledge in this forum. So thanks guys!
 
Well, I've been lurking here a while, so maybe it's time for my first post...
Have you considered making your own handle? For about 10 dollars invested, and a bit of work, I made some handles for my Gillette New LC and my Probak. (will try to attach photo).

I started with a automatic center punch from Harbor Freigt
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/punches/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html

and a 10-32 tap from the hardware store.
http://www.truevalue.com/product/10-32-NF-Plug-Type-Machine-Screw-Tap/20907.uts
(you don't really need a tap handle, use a adjustable wrench instead)


No drilling required, since the punch luckily had the right size hole. I did do some filing and sanding to get the final shape, and countersunk the hole using the center point of a Speedbor spade bit, but I already had those.
 

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You might also check out the SABI T-2 gold razor at ShaveABuck.com . The one I bought a few months ago was around $20 or so. You would love those handles.
 
ST lED:
I read your entire thread yesterday. Really a clever idea. Thanks for the link to the center punch and 10-32 tap.
What really irks me is last year I had HUNDREDS of taps and dies, plus 3 tap handles including a ratcheting one here.
My father was a tool and die maker, so when he passed, I inherited all his tools. I sold them all both locally and on Flea Bay figuring "I will never need these":angry:

I do have a countersink and deburring ball for my drill. So if I can do this project on the cheap, than this option is a Contender!

Thanks,
Bob R.
 
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I picked up 3 of the Harbor Freight Center punches on sale today for $3 each.
I also picked up a

SAE Drill/Tap/Deburr Bit Set 13 Pc

$image_7085.jpg
Got is for $11 with a 20 percent off coupon.
So now I can make 3 handles for $20.
These taps can be used with a drill, and they also deburr the top of the hole.
Would it be safer to just use the tap by hand?
I have some lead powder and small corks left over from my golf club repair days, so I am going to play around with the weight of the handle. I am hoping I can get some added weight up at the top of the handle.
Anybody have any opinions on where to add the weight to the handle?
Thanks again for the great tip.


Well, I've been lurking here a while, so maybe it's time for my first post...
Have you considered making your own handle? For about 10 dollars invested, and a bit of work, I made some handles for my Gillette New LC and my Probak. (will try to attach photo).

I started with a automatic center punch from Harbor Freigt
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/punches/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html

and a 10-32 tap from the hardware store.
http://www.truevalue.com/product/10-32-NF-Plug-Type-Machine-Screw-Tap/20907.uts
(you don't really need a tap handle, use a adjustable wrench instead)


No drilling required, since the punch luckily had the right size hole. I did do some filing and sanding to get the final shape, and countersunk the hole using the center point of a Speedbor spade bit, but I already had those.
 
I've never tapped with anything that used a drill, only by hand, so I can't make a good recommendation; but, I'd be afraid of stripping the threads and/or losing control (unless you are using a manual drill or brace).

One thing to watch for is that some of the punches I've used have left-hand threads -- it took me a while to get one of those opened up. :blushing:

As far as the weight goes, I used some of the internal parts over again. The heavy striker and smaller of the two springs are currently in the top of my handle. I played with a couple of configurations before settling there. Do what feels good for you.:thumbup:

The parts, in the order I have them:
$IMAG0172.jpg

ETA: the balance point is just about at the top of the upper knerling when assembled.
 
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Well, I've been lurking here a while, so maybe it's time for my first post...
Have you considered making your own handle? For about 10 dollars invested, and a bit of work, I made some handles for my Gillette New LC and my Probak. (will try to attach photo).

I love this idea - thanks for the tip!
 
I am going to use a cordless drill set on the lowest torque setting. I watched a few videos today, I think I can do it.
If I screw one up, just put it back together, it's still a center punch.
I can try doing one by hand too.
Good idea on leaving the parts in there for the added weight.
The handle that comes with my NEW razor weighs 21 grams, 3 inches long.
The center punch handle is 3 3/4 inches long and weighs 48 grams, double the weight. That should be good.
 
While lurking in my basement I found this little Gem
$IMG_20150128_182952.jpg$IMG_20150128_183027.jpg

The handle can be used either with a ratcheting motion with forward and reverse. Or I can lock it and do everything straight on.
That's a bit holder on the tip, so it fits the tap perfectly and I don't have to use the bit holder.
What do you think?
Maybe I will try this on the first one, and see how it goes.
It will probably be easier if I put the handle in a vice horizontally, that should be easier to keep it straight.
 
Hi phillysco,

I've never actually tried a combination tap like that, but I don't see why it wouldn't work if you can get the leverage on it to cut the threads. Basically, you are cutting away metal to make the threads, so you have to have a good grip on both the tool and the work piece. Brass is, obviously, softer than steel, so less torque is required; but, it still takes some effort, which is why I've used a adjustable wrench (Crescent wrench) when I don't have a tap handle nearby.

Don't forget to use some kind of oil on the cutter (I've used anything from 3-in-1 to vegetable oil from my kitchen.)
Also, half or three quarter twist forward to cut, then quarter twist back to clear chips.

I'm not much of an authority, since most of my machining is home hobby (and probably not OSHA approved in some instances, such as chucking items in a drill to sand them), but feel free to ask, and I can say what has worked for me.

Hope this helps,
Ed
 
Here are some pictures of my Gillette New with it's "Harbor Freight Special" Handle

$newhandle.jpg$image2.jpg$image.jpg$IMG_20150131_104049.jpg


I followed Ed's advice and tapped the hole by hand using the bit driver handle shown above. I put some 3 in 1 oil on the tap bit, and the tip of the punch handle in a vise mounted sideways.
It was pretty easy to keep the tap straight, and I really did not need to ratchet at all. Brass is pretty soft.
Next I had to countersink the tip of the hole, for that I used my drill, it only took a few seconds.

Now I have a 3 3/4" handle that weighs 53 grams, compared to the original handle that is only 3 inches long and weighs 21 grams.

I hope the longer heavier handle improves feel of the razor.

Now I am going to give the handle a good buffing to bring up the shine.
 
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