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Aylsworth Apex Comparisons

Hello everyone,


Some have asked for an evaluation of the new razors by Aylsworth–the Apex. There is a Stainless Steel version and an Aluminum version. I own both. I will post my thoughts and some comparisons to other razors to give some idea of how it shaves.

Some specs (obviously, specs don't tell the whole story of the razor, but they can help some):

(From the Aylsworth website):

Apex, Stainless Steel:

  • Material - 316 Stainless Steel
  • Finish - Bead Blast/ Electropolish
  • Weight - 106 grams
  • Thread - 10-32
  • Handle - 89 mm (3.5 inches)
  • Blade Gap - 0.99 mm
  • Blade Exposure - 0.125 mm
  • $150

Apex, Aluminum

  • Material - AL6063
  • Finish - Bead Blast 150/ Type 2 Anodize
  • Weight - 35 grams
  • Thread - 10-32
  • Length - 102 mm (4 inches)
  • Blade Gap - 0.7 mm
  • Blade Exposure - 0.05 mm
  • $70


For comparison's sake, the Henson Aluminum razors are, by my kitchen scale, 39 grams. The slightly increased weight is in the head, too, and I can notice the increased weight while using it. The AL Apex, in other words, is very, very light. It almost feels like a toy.


I'll post some comparisons In the following posts. Please feel free to post your own comparisons of these razors to other razors to help. others make a purchasing decision.

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Comparison: Aylsworth Apex AL with Karve Overlander Brass.

Obviously, the appropriate comparison is between aluminum versions of both razors, but I only own an Overlander in Brass.

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Shaved with two first-use Gillette Perma-sharp blades. Used a fairly shallow angle and a light touch. One side of my face for each razor. Both sides got 3 passes, WTG, XTG, ATG (except on my mustache area, which got another XTG pass). Reasonably close shave, no nicks, no irritation, felt good the next day. Upon waking up, there was noticeably less stubble on the Apex side, but only if I ran my hands over the area; visibly both sides looked the same.


Conclusions, both from this comparison and using the Apex AL about 8 times: The Apex is more efficient than the Overlander, but less safe. If I don't watch my angle, especially on my neck, I'll nick myself with the apex, and there's not really a danger of that with the overlander. It could be that I am still learning the AL Apex, but I've shaved with it about 8 times. While the overlander might require an extra touch-up pass, it is more forgiving about angle and pressure. I would compare the Apex to the Henson Aggressive in terms of efficiency (I'll shave with both soon to confirm) but it seems to be picky about angle and pressure, and if either are not right, it will bite you. This is a general problem I personally have experienced with light razors–if I use a light touch, then the razor "skips" on my neck, leading to nicks. Additionally, the razor doesn't cut well. If I use more pressure, I get nicks as well, although a much closer shave. That's why I prefer heavy razors: the pressure is more intuitive for me.

The Overlander's geometry is very interesting to me–on a WTG pass, it doesn't cut much, it almost feels like that first pass is wasted. Where it shines, as many of you know, is on the ATG pass, where it really mows stubble down. I think I could probably just skip the WTG pass and begin XTG; I'll try that sometime.

Next, I'll compare both Apex's together, and then with some other razors I own.




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Excellent review, sir. I like your descriptions and all the comparisons you offer. Very informative photos too. I recently received an APEX-AL6063 and I’m only one shave in, but it’s a good razor and I recognize everything you said. I’m looking forward to your comparison with the steel version - I didn’t know the blade gap and exposure were so different, so that’s going to be interesting.
 
Comparison: Aylsworth Apex AL with Karve Overlander Brass.

Obviously, the appropriate comparison is between aluminum versions of both razors, but I only own an Overlander in Brass.

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Shaved with two first-use Gillette Perma-sharp blades. Used a fairly shallow angle and a light touch. One side of my face for each razor. Both sides got 3 passes, WTG, XTG, ATG (except on my mustache area, which got another XTG pass). Reasonably close shave, no nicks, no irritation, felt good the next day. Upon waking up, there was noticeably less stubble on the Apex side, but only if I ran my hands over the area; visibly both sides looked the same.


Conclusions, both from this comparison and using the Apex AL about 8 times: The Apex is more efficient than the Overlander, but less safe. If I don't watch my angle, especially on my neck, I'll nick myself with the apex, and there's not really a danger of that with the overlander. It could be that I am still learning the AL Apex, but I've shaved with it about 8 times. While the overlander might require an extra touch-up pass, it is more forgiving about angle and pressure. I would compare the Apex to the Henson Aggressive in terms of efficiency (I'll shave with both soon to confirm) but it seems to be picky about angle and pressure, and if either are not right, it will bite you. This is a general problem I personally have experienced with light razors–if I use a light touch, then the razor "skips" on my neck, leading to nicks. Additionally, the razor doesn't cut well. If I use more pressure, I get nicks as well, although a much closer shave. That's why I prefer heavy razors: the pressure is more intuitive for me.

The Overlander's geometry is very interesting to me–on a WTG pass, it doesn't cut much, it almost feels like that first pass is wasted. Where it shines, as many of you know, is on the ATG pass, where it really mows stubble down. I think I could probably just skip the WTG pass and begin XTG; I'll try that sometime.

Next, I'll compare both Apex's together, and then with some other razors I own.




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A fair comparison would have to be Alysworth Apex AL vs Karve Bison
This Alysworth AL is positioned to compete with the Bison
 
I have both the Overlander (SS) and the Apex (SS) and I agree, the Apex is significantly more efficient but gives up quite a bit of safety. It's a bit of a lightsaber, not a ton of blade feel but so efficient you can end up with weepers without knowing where they came from.
 
Razor comparison: Aylsworth Apex Stainless Steel vs. Aylsworth Apex Aluminum.


Let me be clear: These two razors are very different. One is mild, the other is aggressive. But, I thought it worthwhile to give someone a sense of the difference in efficiency and smoothness between the two razors.

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I shaved the right side of my face with the Aluminum razor, left with stainless steel. I shaved pretty steep with both, which I think is the right tack to take with these razors–the shave plane is pretty steep anyway, (see pictures in earlier posts) and it meant that I got a pretty safe, mild, and nick-free experience with both razors.

Prep/Equipment: Hot Shower, hot towel, bowl lathered RR Dead Sea, 1st use permasharp blades, then face exfoliated with a badger brush. Shaved my standard 3-pass WTG, XTG, ATG (all except mustache area). Had 24 hours growth (my beard growth is about average).

Here's what I noticed: Although there was no visible redness or nicks on my face, the stainless side got more alum sting, and more aftershave burn. The SS Apex did give me a closer shave, but it could only be noticed if I swept my hand against the grain on my face. the difference in efficiency is absolutely not worth the increased burning/irritation I'm still feeling writing this review on my left side. I think someone could shave with either razors everyday–both are very smooth, both little blade feel, although the SS version is considerably more–but the SS version really shines with 2-3 days of growth. I've knocked down 6 days' growth with it, and it reduced more stubble than my Konsul on 4, if that's any indication. In terms of efficiency/smoothness ratio, it's the most effective razor I've ever tried. But, the SS version is not an everyday razor for me. The AL version, by comparison, is more efficient than my Overlander, and as I've learned how to use it (steep angle), it's the razor I prefer to shave with everyday. It's almost as smooth, but is much, much more efficient, than, say, the Henson mild/medium, or the Karve Overlander.

Kaleb has said he is working on releasing a stainless-steel head that reproduces the same geometry of the Aluminum version. I'll snatch that right up. He said Q2 2024.
 
In a few days (I'm trying to finish a March Madness Bracket) I'll compare the Stainless Steel Apex to the Aluminum Henson 13, which I think is a pretty fair comparison.
 
Good stuff. Thanks for posting your thoughts. I'm have a Henson and am considering an OL, but it's always good to know what the other options are out there.
 
Thank you for the comparisons, this is very interesting! Great that going steep works for you and that you found a good daily driver.

Do we know if Kaleb design the Apex to be a steep shaver? The Drakkant and Kopparkant are designed to be shallow. It would be good to know his intent.
At the very least, it's designed to be a more traditional 30 degree angled razor, I do remember him saying that. I've been persuaded that taking a traditionally-angled razor and using it more steeply gives me better shaves. So, I would merely say that the Apex razors are a more "typical" angle than the Drakkant/Kopperkant are.
 
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