I have this 12k Chinese stone. I want to use it for touch ups, which method should I use?. and should I apply pressure?. I just don't want to ruin my razor. but also I want it to keep that sharp edge.
12k Chinese stone question
- Thread starter hotrodheat
- Start date
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Simply soak the stone for a few minutes and keep some water on it, and hone, with very light pressure, basically just the weight of the razor and half a finger. Normal, alternating laps, with a slight x stroke. A more full X stroke of course, if the stone is not wide enough to carry the whole edge.
A good test, both before and after, is to pass the razor 1/4" over your forearm and notice whether it treetops any hairs, how many, and how much it catches or how loudly it pings. When you see a noticeable improvement, you are done. Almost. I like to use a half dozen laps with the spine leading, then a couple just pulling the blade across the stone for a finish to the finish. That last movement is tricky because you don't want to "bend" the razor over the edge of the stone. Best results all around is from holding the rock loosely in the off hand so it floats in space, and let the razor and hone find their own alignment. If you lay the stone down on an immovable surface, you are very likely, as a beginner especially, to mess up.
BTW, lapping film is better.
BTBTW, balsa, lapped flat and smooth, with .1u diamond paste on one side and .5u on the other, beats the pants off any honing method for edge maintenance. Just strop 4 dozen laps on the fine side after each shave. If it ever does seem to be getting slightly dull, visit the .5u side with as many laps as it takes to bring it back, then continue on the .1u side. Magic. I never have to re-hone.
A good test, both before and after, is to pass the razor 1/4" over your forearm and notice whether it treetops any hairs, how many, and how much it catches or how loudly it pings. When you see a noticeable improvement, you are done. Almost. I like to use a half dozen laps with the spine leading, then a couple just pulling the blade across the stone for a finish to the finish. That last movement is tricky because you don't want to "bend" the razor over the edge of the stone. Best results all around is from holding the rock loosely in the off hand so it floats in space, and let the razor and hone find their own alignment. If you lay the stone down on an immovable surface, you are very likely, as a beginner especially, to mess up.
BTW, lapping film is better.
BTBTW, balsa, lapped flat and smooth, with .1u diamond paste on one side and .5u on the other, beats the pants off any honing method for edge maintenance. Just strop 4 dozen laps on the fine side after each shave. If it ever does seem to be getting slightly dull, visit the .5u side with as many laps as it takes to bring it back, then continue on the .1u side. Magic. I never have to re-hone.
In addition to Slash's recommendations, if you're going to use the C12K for a refresh some type of slurry is going to have be involved. If you have a Tomonagura or something to help you create slurry that won't scratch your C12K too much, get a lite slurry going and dilute getting to water only.
What does your razor look like? If it's a smiling razor, you will need to do a rolling stroke so the whole edge gets hit. I usually don't do ALL alternating laps, rather I do a bunch on one side (maybe 50 for a CNat), then flip and do the other side, flip and do half the original, flip, etc. For my CNat I would do 50, 25, 15, 10, 5, 3, 2, and then do 20 or so alternating strokes to make sure things are even. I don't worry about using a bit of light pressure when doing the larger sessions, but try to ease up and get less and less pressure toward the end. It's worked really well for me. That CNat should keep you going indefinitely, unless you are like me and wind up with a bunch of hones... My CNat is a good stone, it leaves a very sharp edge, but not buttery smooth. The edges get very close with the grain, so it doesn't matter so much to me, but I can't do ATG under my chin with the CNat.
You don't need slurry if you have plenty of time. 100 laps with just water should refresh the edge. No pressure.
If you want something cheap to make a light slurry a coticule slurry stone seems to work well enough on a Cnat.
Open a door. Use C12K as a door stop. Order new hone. That will be faster.
I can think of 100 other things I'd rather do than 100 laps on a C12K, but if you have plenty of time, have fun.
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- Thread starter
- #8
I tried using th 12kCh. before using it. the GD was very sharp. just buy touching the hair it bites it. I went very slowly using the HHT. it catches ALL the hair and pops like crazy. to a degree I stopped becuase I dont want to mess my arm
when I used the 12k I did it again. yesterday. I felt it went a little dull. I didn't use a balsa strop. but today I tried putting verry little pressure. like the weight of my fingers. without pressing it. became patient. and did some strokes. since I do very bad x strokes. I did halves meaning. part of it were the heal is out. and part were the point is out. then I used a balsa strop. did like 30-40 on each side. green then red. and stropped like 30-40 on both sides of the blade. then there you have it it became better than yesterday. and starting to bite better.
I'm not sure if it is as sharp before doing all of this. but now it became much better. even in the HHT. one thing I don't remember how many strokes on the chinease stone XD. nor what did I do yesterday to avoid that mistake. I am thinking of buying Ninawa superstones. and try honing my dull Boker blade.
- Thread starter
- #9
I think that is what I did. but a little different. I did one side for about 30-40. flip do the same. then some dubious strokes(read above). then using a balsa strop. also light pressure. then leather stropping.
i like the cnat it is slower but teaches good strokes and gives very good edges IMO a perfect maintenance hone. and a slurry stone for it is not necessary IMO for maintaining a shave ready straight. i like cnat edges by the way but all natural stones are not alike.
I put oil on mine.
If you like it, put a rang on it.
If you like it, put a rang on it.
A Cnat is porous. More so than a coticule. I would avoid oil.
B
BJJ
makes sense ! LoL
Prep like an Ark with hard steel and use Smith's Honing Solution. C Nats do vary in performance and there are better alternatives. But if you have one you can learn a lot about finishing and pressure. It just takes time.
Another dumb question....how do you know when to stop when finishing on the C12k?
I always just did half strokes and worked and worked and worked until the demeaner of the water changed. You'll see it. For a long time, the water is going to want to ride up on the blade, then, magically, the water starts to get sucked under the blade and the blade usually starts to "stick" to the stone a bit more. It's easier to witness the sticking on a wedge with a thick bevel, particularly one that has a very straight edge.
It is more a feel thing, 100/200 laps are common. Edge prep, how fine you have pre finished the edge will make a big difference.
Cool thx
