Workbench Custom Razors for the new year 2011

[Skrymr]

And that is perfectly ok. But have you got anything that you think would fit with vikings, knights, and stuff? I'm open to ideas.

Thanks Bill, I am no artist by any means, and I really like you're work a lot. How about instead of a basket weave, make them crosses? Crosses were used a lot by both knights and vikings.


Something like this: (I hope it's ok to post this) http://fc05.deviantart.net/fs13/f/2006/354/3/2/Cross_tattoo_design_by_whittysx.jpg

 

[Pkrankow]

Can you do ghost flames with etching?

Phil

 

[ESTEBE VERDE]

 

[BillEllis]

Thanks Bill, I am no artist by any means, and I really like you're work a lot. How about instead of a basket weave, make them crosses? Crosses were used a lot by both knights and vikings.


Something like this: (I hope it's ok to post this) http://fc05.deviantart.net/fs13/f/2006/354/3/2/Cross_tattoo_design_by_whittysx.jpg

Great design for a pendant or cane handle or something, but wouldn't exactly work very well for an area with an irregular border. Try again.

Can you do ghost flames with etching?

Phil

enh? Clarification, please. Are you referring to hamon lines? If so, I don't know if they are even possible on stainless. This is 154CM steel.

What a great antique piece. Nice flavor for what I'm doing.

 

[BillEllis]

I decided to keep it simple for the spine. A simple modified twist. The key to having it come out presentable is to make sure things stay symmetrical, and that includes the border lines. I could have just put the twist pattern by itself on the spine, but thought things would look better with a border.

As a reminder, these are the gadgets used to make the border lines parallel to the edge. Care must be taken that the lines are, indeed, parallel. It's easy to drift the lines to one side or the other because tool positioning can vary by the way they are held.

Once the lines are scribed, I lightly engrave them so that they are not lost in any of the other steps. Then I put on a film of transfer wax (modeling clay also works) with my fingers. This allows me to draw directly onto the steel with a pencil. A moderate amount of care must be taken to keep from rubbing the lines out before they are permanently cut into the steel. The pencil lines don't need to be perfect because "by eye" adjustments in the cuts can be made during the actual engraving process. Here is the design in pencil that is contained within the border of the dorsal side of the spine.

View attachment 153153


Prep and drawing the artwork prior to cutting actually takes almost as much time as it does to engrave it. Here you see the pattern lightly cut into the steel. The light lines allow for minor corrections to be made when everything is cut deeper and with any flair that may be needed in certain areas.

View attachment 153154


After the design is cut to the depth I want I will decide whether or not I want to dig out the background and stipple it. Similar to this:

 

[John C]

Sorry to not pop in earlier, work and such...
I really like the helix that you're doing on the spine. It's a nice variant on what you normally see.
The celtic design on the handmirror (that's actually what it is) is a form of Celtic art known as La Tene. It's a very early form of artwork primarily from european Celts and predates Roman and Byzantine work. Generally Germanic in area and was seen from eastern europe through central europe and up into the Norse regions. This would be an excellent form to go on the axe. IMO

cheers!

 

[Pkrankow]

Not harmon or anything in the heat treat, but instead the color on color type of effect that some custom cars were painted with in the recent past, and a throwback to several decades ago...except using etching and line weight to give the impression of a color change.

I am trying to remember where I saw something similar, and hoping the fever I had when I made the comment wasn't where it came from (Doozy of a cold, glad its almost done).

If I found the right data sheet this 154-cm is tempered to 900F after cryogenic processing? This is a serious piece of metal you are using. RC of low 60's expected, so that should be some rather excellent edge holding ability...perfect for a razor!

Phil

 

[azmark]

I'm liking #8. It has a cool Celtic look to it which would go well IMO

 

[lz6]

Thanks for continuing to share this entire process. Clearly another beautiful razor is moving through your working steps and it is both a pleasure and educational to observe.

 

[sicknote]

cant await the final picture

 

[Nerdman]

Awesome work as usual sir! I always enjoy seeing your work!

 

[BillEllis]

So....

Should I dig out the background, or leave it like this?



View attachment 153972

 

[lz6]

That is a tough question. I like it now but digging out the back ground would
certainly highlight the design more.

 

[Pkrankow]

That is a tough question. I like it now but digging out the back ground would
certainly highlight the design more.

 

[BillEllis]

Man, you guys just added some bucks to the total price. I have an additional 6 hours just on the dorsal side. Almost done with it. Pics soon...

 

[superbleu]

are they pictures ready yet???

Can't wait to see the finished work.

 

[Jsteele]

It's looking good Bill..

 

[BillEllis]

And here ya have it... I kinda like it this way. You? Last piic is with the background removed and darkened. It will be much more even at final assembly.

View attachment 154849

View attachment 154850

View attachment 154851

 

[Sullybob]

I like it a lot Bill. Digging out the background gave it more contrast.

 

[lz6]

Just the critical touch I thought it needed. This razor is going to be superbl. Some lucky owner is already smiling.