GC.68OC, GOLD GRANDE, YAQI CHROME MELLON - A JOURNEY

[JoWolf]

Excellent! I also find more peace in less than more. In my case, it's a few razors (6 in total, 3 different types), two hones, two soaps, two strops (one for daily use and another with Chromox) and one brush. I'm currently trying to eliminate AS lotions and balms. I'll probably end up with one or two.

I also understand what you write about refinement not having an end. That said, I personally settle down to a "good enough" threshold in terms of products and I hope that method and technique will provide any improvement. I fear that "perfection" is just an illusion. Currently working on getting the best shave I can with two passes. Repetition helps me. Most days, it's more than good enough.

it's a few razors (6 in total, 3 different types), two hones, two soaps, two strops (one for daily use and another with Chromox) and one brush

My first twenty or so years using carts, I not only bought and had every new and introduced Gillette cart razor. I also had every de cart razor offered by Shick. Too much equipment and confusion had deep rooted beginnings. The BBS freak in me has been and continues to rage through all the years. So much blood. My sensitive skin was never up to the task. Healthy skin has always been fifty percent of my shave challenge. I Did Not know that, but learned that here. Using and practicing with the same product and equipment has elevated the shave to a high level of comfort. Finding the equipment and product to this point has been a blast.

I personally settle down to a "good enough"

So important to be able to step back. CCS too BBS there is that point in every shave. Going that extra few strokes might just be half a dozen too many. Disastrous results. Ninety percent of the time we could feel the impending irritation, yet we still did not back off. Retributive justice. Blood.

I'm currently trying to eliminate AS lotions and balms. I'll probably end up with one or two.

As a cart shaver I would only use an aftershave, occasionally. Using pre shave and post shave products has elevated my skin health. Like everything else finding the right products for your particular issues can be frustrating. Having an aversion to using them was another detail I needed to overcome. Culling the ones that didn’t do it for me the easy part. I consider all software and hardware to be excellent products. The challenge again being finding the right ones to fit your shave.

 

[JoWolf]

In case you haven't heard, I'm a self proclaimed minimalist.

I would have never guessed that Rave.

In case you haven't heard, I'm a self proclaimed minimalist.

 

[JoWolf]

Mail Call
I forgot to put the Cosmo A/S and Tundra balm in the pic. I’m sticking to my rule of three on my journey of minimalism. I chose Cosmo and Tundra for the makers descriptions of added skin nourishment for this pair. Without having used either, their fragrance’s seem weaker than Felce. I’ll go with the Tundra for my six day shave tomorrow. Two are beta 4.3 and one is beta 4.2. Rotation between the three will be more than enough variety for me. I had purchased a SV scent kit a month ago. Every scent was pleasing to me. The samples of products will keep me checking out scents for the next few months. The broad range of SV shave products all seem to work quite well for me. Exploring their available comfort will be a real thrill. One more boar brush to be purchased and I think I’ll be able to kick back and coast with good comfort.

 

[Esox]

 

[JoWolf]

An expensive brush in the early 1980’s. A Plisson Silvertip. There wasn’t any need for another brush. A cart shaver until July 2019. My shaves were luxurious using the Silvertip and expensive creams.

View attachment 1333088


Like many before me Badger & Blade and DE shaving changed everything. Now I had to learn to reestablish luxury all over again. Back to the future. Early on, everything in DE was a combination of blood, pain, and endless software and hardware trials and reviews. IMHO. With the amount of stuff I’ve tried I would consider myself only 50% BOSC and still remain 50% confused. There is so much to learn.

Looking for best suit in product and equipment can only be accomplished on the field of battle under combat conditions. It really does take many shaves and lots of time. I’m into my third year and I feel that I am over the hump. I can work and practice on refinement of my established favourites. A Segway to the brush.

View attachment 1333082

The seven brushes I’ve used for the last two years. Five of them I purchased the knots and handles from AliExpress, fitted and set the knots. The horse hair and boar are purchased Zenith brushes, one exceptional and one excellent. I like all of them so much. I didn’t think I could ever have a favourite. Two years of rotation and two brushes are solid favourites.

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The Zenith is an exceptional brush for me. The two band is my second favourite. Most of my brush experience has been badger. Badger & Blade introduced me to boar hair brushes in 2019.
Why are these two my favourites? In the most simplest terms. The Zenith in use try’s extremely hard to act and feel like a badger. The reverse for the two band. To me both of these different brushes are very very close in use. I guess my preference falls into a medium soft stubby with a firm backbone. It only took two years.

A note on the two band. The knot was acquired from AliExpress as compensation for a different defective handle. The handle for the two band bought on spec was laying around waiting for something. The knot and handle fit was tight. A few minutes of sanding and my single use of GE Silicone as adhesive, (other knots epoxy was used), it was probably a ten minute job total. My easiest knot set.

I joined Badger & Blade October 1, 2019. I have wanted to join in on a few different monthly shave events but never could. Always in the midst of some effort or trial of equipment. I look forward to this October’s Open Comb Shave Month. There have been recent threads and discussion on lathering and SV soap. I have only used Vito’s exclusively for over a year. A very economical good performing Italian croap.

I will start using the Zenith Chubby brush and Saponificio Varesino Felce Aromatica exclusively. A scary time for sure. Halloween Treats and Harvest Moon Shaves.

Happy Shaves Gents

My rule of three I need another Brush

For a couple of years, I've been talking to Zenith about producing a larger knot. Finally, we've made it happen. This brush has a 31mm boar knot in it. The loft is set at 57mm with an effective loft of 50-53mm. The handle is 58mm tall with a total height of around 115mm. It's a hefty 121 grams.

This brush is bigger than what you need. This is not a beginner brush. It will waste your soap and cream.

Some of you, however, have too much product. You are having trouble justifying buying new soaps because your cabinet is stuffed and there isn't any more room. This brush is a solution. It will help you use up that old product and create space for more soaps.

If you do purchase it, I do not recommend it to use with your Acqua Di Parma, Xpec, or Santa Maria Novella.

Enjoy,

~Dr. Michael

Can your shave overcome your brush? In my case it did. Once I started using SV Shea Butter.

I know my brushes well and there were only two up to the task. After a time. It wasn’t a surprise that the Zenith B27 had dominated the others and had earned its way to being my favourite anyway. I didn’t even attempt trying any of the others. I built them. I love them. They will have to be gone. I will hang on to them till year end. They were selected and built to help me define what criteria, characteristics, and operational abilities would best service my shave style and technique. They had blasted down the track flying over hurdles with style and aplomb. Until a bridge too Far, probably more like a mud patch too deep. The two boars I built are up to the task but, fall short on the very high end of comfort. Only the retired Plisson gets a place on the shelf.

A B27 would be more than fine, but also a twin. The B35 is more like a distant cousin that has been working out at Gold’s in the heavy weight room. My biggest knot is a 28mm. I’ve always wanted a 30mm. Will this brush meet or fulfill my needs? Size wise yes. Performance and comfort unknown. With luck delivery is four days after the Hunter’s Moon. I do not break brushes in on my face or head skin. It hurts. This monster would tear my head off. Two trips a week in the fridge rotating between aggressive towel workouts and dry outs and comb outs. This brute should be able to dance by Christmas. I’ll know some time in the New Year.

 

[JoWolf]

Three millimetres is not that big if looking from the top. From the side different story. Mail calls are always exciting. This one is a moon shot for me. Wow wow Wow. I love it.

My best and first friend in grammar school Guido. If he was the pit bull I was the Jack Russell. Guido is up to his butt plug in cold water right now. Soon to meet Vito’s another Italian friend of mine. They will frolic in the bliss and harmony of hundred or so hand lathering expeditions. Guido is soaking looking at the jar he will be living in for a few moons. So cold and dark at the back of the fridge.

 

[JoWolf]

Oh yeah I forgot the bloom may add a pinch of size. I did not want to bloom it until it spent a night in the fridge. With the bloom also comes the fragrance, barnyard hog. The density of these Zeniths is large and mostly crunched up tight for the first year. Combing is required for this brute and I will continue a maximum effort in all aspects to bring the brush to comfort by Christmas. The Chubby took forever.

 

[JoWolf]

Crime scene photos help you see what you over looked at the scene. For my purposes they show progression. Comparing to the Chubby this brush will be hopefully easier to break in. The longer loft the reason, my best guess. Barnyard fragrance and medium scritch in the centre darker looking circle. I do not care for either and they will be removed before using this brush. Two hand lathering cycles today. Guido is in the jar at the back of the fridge. The second and last time. Hand lathering cycles with complete dry outs between each session will complete the break in. When the scritch and odour are gone, It’ll be good to go.
Mr. In-between. The Chubby handle is too small for best comfort in my medium size hand. The big boy Guido is too big for best comfort in my hand. Today’s hand lathering session the second one and I found the best usable grip. The thumb and forefinger have to be slightly over the lip of the handle. The longer loft will require a little barbers pinch for moustache and tighter areas. The pinch also accommodates a stiffer scrub if needed or desired. The thumb and forefinger can easily slide into position, even for part of a stroke. The knot size has almost the same broad stroke as my 28mm long lofted two band fan.
Vitos soap has the break in honours. It is very easy to judge the brushes performance with a familiar soap. Surprised that the lather development is so strong, at this stage. Compared to the chubby the brush does feel more powerful. It can easily take Vito’s 30% quicker to a stiff dense lather than the Chubby. It does take a little more soap, but a lot less than I thought it would.
The big similarity between these two brushes are the gauge or hair thickness and density of the knots. This is the winning combo for me. Other boar knots I’ve used and own may approach or match performance but are distant in softness. The silvertip is the only brush with softer hair, and not by much. This boar hair broken in is softer than the two bands I own.

 

[JoWolf]

In my mind and the previous experience of breaking in six boars prior to this one. Kinda blown away. Semogue 2000 the first boar I purchased, which I didn’t care for at anytime. I gave it away. This brush would be totally different in the extreme. It would also be the next easiest to get to usable condition right after the 2000. That’s what blows me away. The Zenith Chubby as a conservative comparison was and did take ten times the effort and ten times longer to bloom and break in to a usable condition. Both the Chubby and Guido have the same fine Pura Setola, Pure Bristle. Pictures showing the whiteish translucent hairs are broken in just before the last stage. With much use. Tips split and curl slightly. Ten or twelve vigorous hand latherings and towell workouts got it here. No odour no scritch. Guido is good to go.

The 28mm and 31mm will be my two shave brushes with a two band stubby badger as an alternative if mood or desire wants something different. Me and Guido are looking forward to the next shave.

 

[JoWolf]

November 5
Fatip Gold Grande/Feather/single use
Saponificio Varesino Tundra Artica
Zenith B-35 Boar

The dust is just starting to settle. October Open Comb had a few firsts, new SV product trials, dialing everything in. Dialing in continues. First ride on the big boar. I continue to assess pre and post shave products. My intent is to remove product out of the shave, if possible. My last shave in September is a target. My best ATG Single Pass in technique and comfort. It was a seven day shave as is todays. I am comparing efficiencies and comfort. A six day or seven day will be my default shave.

A measurable difference. I could not shave with Cartridges beyond five days. A four day shave was the sweet spot.

My deepest respect and admiration for The House of Zenith. They certainly know the way of the boar. I love Italian shave stuff. Pura Setola - Pure Bristle - Big Hog. If I don’t fall off, I plan exclusive use of the B-35 until softness catches up to the Chubby Scrubby. They really are more like cousins than brothers. Having a big skin area to shave capitalizes on available performance of this brush. The 57mm loft puts it just over the scrubby line and at the bottom of a long loft. Similar action as my badger two band long loft fan. Comparisons help define the compromises of a brush. I don’t know if other face and head shavers have different brush preferences for face and head. I always have, on this journey. Unplanned or thought of. This is my new favourite head brush. Size matters, everything about this brush feels very big, powerful in a good way. An excellent job on face lathering and stellar job on the head. Best head lathering to date. I love it when stuff works out better than your plan. The brush had tighter control and maneuverability than I expected. It hasn’t achieved that softness yet that will increase lather load. I needed a little puck smear for the head lather. Where as the Chubby does not. The two boars are all time favourites and will continue to improve with use.

The knot’s 31mm heavy density combined with the finer gauge hair, likes a bit of combing to get a quicker complete dry out. A four day dry out for the big guy a day longer than the scrubby. Some combing keeps the bulb in good order. More maintenance than your average brush. The dry out times might not suit some daily shavers.

The SV formulas I’m using both require more water initially for lather development and more water for adjusting lather consistency. More water than what I have been used to using. The formulas also perform noticeably better with warm water as opposed to cold water. Not a difficult option or adjustment in my cold water shave. An improvement in comfort. I had dipped and rested the Grande in the warm water dipping pot after rinsing lather and whiskers in the cold basin water. The increased temperature of the brass razor increased the stroke speed. Go figure. A tight established shave routine can always be improved upon even when accidentally discovered. Exploring greater comfort in my shaves is now my main focus. I’ve streamlined and changed my basic shave platform with the SV product line and comfort is improving. My bold statement, it is never one thing.

The combination of equipment and products should combine in a copacetic fashion elevating comfort. Understanding and accepting that efficiency and comfort are synonymous. Losing the grasp on one negates the other. My campaign in reducing a three pass shave to a one pass shave moved at the speed of comfort. My ATG Single Pass Shave’s easiest path to improvement, is reducing shave strokes. My last shave in September was that shave. All the changes being made are chasing that shave and being able to repeat it. It was a medium BBS. The stroke reduction was stunning.

Today’s Shave

The SV soaps are improving in performance as I find the slight adjustments required. All aspects of the lathering were above average in comfort and performance. Slicknesses, glide, cushion, residual glide all there and contributing to the shave. The seven day shave is a closer more comfortable shave than the six and the five day. My guess ideal whisker length for my best comfort. (daily shavers may not get that, but there is a difference) The pre and post shave SV butters in combination with the soaps have elevated my shave comfort noticeably. I still pick up a little warmth with the alum, in a couple of the extra buffing spots. A very fine BBS effort. I feel all components of my shave have more to offer in efficiency and comfort and it’s nice to have that feeling. New goals can only be achieved when you got more pedal to step on. The big boar will get a little extra towelling after each shave to speed it along to more softness. Eight shaves left for me this year. I will work diligently to improve each shave.

Happy Shaves Gents

 

[AimlessWanderer]

My intent is to remove product out of the shave, if possible. My last shave in September is a target.

You might be a bit late for that, John.



or very early....

 

[JoWolf]

You might be a bit late for that, John.



or very early....

Ultimately we all end up chasing some rogue phantoms Al. The chase is the fun. Repeating elusive memorable shaves a wary prey. The hunt continues.

 

[JoWolf]

November 12
Fatip Gold Grande/Feather/single use
Saponificio Varesino Felce Aromatica
Zenith B-35 Boar

It finally looks so simple.

I wanted to but could never get around to the fixed four. I was looking for long term partners. I would be juggling many balls in the air. Trying stuff out and I didn’t want to take a break. I was looking and working towards finding what worked best for me. I don’t even know if there was an end plan. There was too much stuff to experience and try. In my journey I tried to minimize as many areas of my shave as possible. I even felt pressure and a strong desire to have The KIT. Almost three years and I found what I like. The fixed four is minimal. When you have lost the urge and desire to try anything else. You know your there. Not because there isn’t much better stuff out there. You have found what works best For You. In Your Shave. There are challenges left in the realm of diminishing returns. Improve shave comfort. My equipment and product is definitely up to the task.

My happy friendly shave is a seven day or 168 for the hour counters. It has changed a few times over the years. I have no idea why. As Thom @thombrogan says it’s a combination of everything. There have been enough changes in my shave and skin care lately to promote a change.

The main criteria for me changing a shave interval. Noticed comfort improvement. Seven is the new normal.

Memorable shaves always close, comfortable, efficient. A lot quicker than usual. Speed.

Felce Aromatica my favourite of the SV scents sampled. A strong favourite that will be repurchased. I use shea butter for pre shave. Hyaluronic acid and mango butter post shave. It has taken a few shaves to dial in optimal application of the two butters. Hot hands a must. Helps to use less grease and get a thinner coat down. Lathering eats up the shea grease right away. Still not sure how much the lather is affected by the grease. Didn’t notice any difference in lather between heavy and light grease applications.

Second ride on the big boar. Don’t want to use any other brush. So much comfort in a fixed four.
Shave goal now. Reduce the strokes used in my ATG Single Pass Shave. Fixed four the new tool. Recently I had done a shave with reduced strokes. Repeating it is the new challenge. I love my kit.

Same direction on a straighter path. The fixed four will lead me to my best comfort. I never considered my three pass shave gone. I consider it condensed. Eliminating passes was a slow progression. I had to maintain comfort, efficiency and improve on them. An ATG Single Pass was the result. More comfort and efficiency. Product, equipment and technique got me there. I continued to improve the ATG Single Pass. When you hit a wall there is never a doubt. Like driving a car down the autobahn with the pedal floored. There ain’t no more. You need a tune up, or a new vehicle to go faster. Why do you want to go faster? An ATG Single Pass shave is efficient, comfortable and fewer strokes, faster. Speed. My shave evolved into a faster shave with an increase in efficiency and comfort. As my shaves got faster my pre shave happened (was off and on, non existent mostly, other than a shower) It had to get bigger and did. My post shave expanded as well. I have no idea where the speed tops out on the Grande or the Feather. The FOCS is a slower razor for me and it hit that wall. The Bic Chrome Platinum a slower blade I tried recently and hit that wall. The pre shave, post shave used with Vito’s hit that wall. I could not increase my speed using them. Saponificio Varesino product added. A change over. Sped up my shave. More pedal to press down on. The fixed four is like putting on race tires and going to the track. If I need a hero to emulate it would be. Spin and Win. Danny Sullivan.

Speed can eat a lot of time. Closing in on my third year and still trying to get more speed. I didn’t even know I needed it. The best efficiencies and comfort live in the fast lane. Irritation, nicks, cuts, are in the slow lane. I have my journal up to speed now. My shave postings will be limited to adding something or removing something from the shave.

Our best shaves have usually been quick. Reducing strokes in my ATG Single Pass will make the shave faster. My best shaves have all been quick ones. I have never rushed a shave. Pre and post routines provide support, balance and improve the comfort I seek. A fast shave that is not rushed.

Today’s Shave

Just knowing that I finally have The Kit. Every bad shave getting me here was exonerated, it was a thrill. The Felce was the best lather I have ever had. Everything wanted or needed was there for me. I had my head half lathered when I realized I hadn’t used alum on my face shave. Obviously not needed. Not used on the head either. Slick lather riding the hog, sublime comfort. And the brush is still going to get better. I know skin is removed with very close shaves. I still went with the Witch Hazel just before the hyaluronic acid, finished off with mango butter. Grinning in the mirror my skin did not feel shaved. A higher level of comfort. Fixed Four.

Happy Shaves

 

[AimlessWanderer]

I'm not settled on a fixed four, but do still have that settled feeling. I shave more frequently than you, John. No pre or post shave solutions most of the time. U too have sensitivities, though not to the same level as you, and my skin prefers a different "management aoproach". Yet there is much I recognise in your summary.

I don't intentionally shave fast, but my shaves are generally quick due to the efficiency of simplicity and familiarity. My modest array of options, leaves me free of any hunger to try something new. There is enough here to get a refreshing change, without inundating myself woth choice, or screwing myself up with unfamiliarity at every change.

Each blade I use, is tried and tested by me, and in the semi-fixed duo of primary razors. Each new soap will need acclimatising to, but is similar to ones I am familiar with, and I know my brushes well enough to compound unknowns.

I'm a big believer in not making life harder that it needs to be, and while I have done a lot of exploration since signing up here, overall, my shaves are very similar to those of my quarter decade of DE shaving before joining the forum. I know what my face needs, and what I can get away with. I do occasionally overstep the mark, but nearly always know how and why.

 

[JoWolf]

I'm not settled on a fixed four, but do still have that settled feeling. I shave more frequently than you, John. No pre or post shave solutions most of the time. U too have sensitivities, though not to the same level as you, and my skin prefers a different "management aoproach". Yet there is much I recognise in your summary.

I don't intentionally shave fast, but my shaves are generally quick due to the efficiency of simplicity and familiarity. My modest array of options, leaves me free of any hunger to try something new. There is enough here to get a refreshing change, without inundating myself woth choice, or screwing myself up with unfamiliarity at every change.

Each blade I use, is tried and tested by me, and in the semi-fixed duo of primary razors. Each new soap will need acclimatising to, but is similar to ones I am familiar with, and I know my brushes well enough to compound unknowns.

I'm a big believer in not making life harder that it needs to be, and while I have done a lot of exploration since signing up here, overall, my shaves are very similar to those of my quarter decade of DE shaving before joining the forum. I know what my face needs, and what I can get away with. I do occasionally overstep the mark, but nearly always know how and why.

Yes Al I think anyone with a smaller stable has a better chance of staying out of trouble. My skin always required better care but never received it. I’m happy my adventures led me to better skin care. And better shaves. I am quite excited to be locked in with a kit. I know I can improve shave comfort. I mostly liked carts when I didn’t do too much damage. I have missed not being small. It was necessary for me to try enough of everything to narrow down to the ones that work good for me. Almost three years and
there wasn’t a quicker way. I feel fortunate that I didn’t have to try a whole lot more. My shave enjoyment has been on a steady rise With DE. I have never experienced that before with other shave methods.

 

[JoWolf]

November 26

Foreseeable Future Fixed Four

More difficult than it sounds. Picking best brush not a problem. Scratching the two rotating brushes. Heartbreaking. The only time reducing equipment hurt hard. Two of the three Saponificio Varesino soap pucks used are 4.3, the third 4.1 formula. Lather development and shaving lather hasn’t shown any discernible differences to me. Other than fragrance in my early face & head lathering. I may pick up on subtleties in the future with more use and familiarity.

Grande & Feather have been a lock. Just short of two years. Last year’s exclusive use of Vito’s was a Fixed Three for sure. The four. The final step.

Six face and head shaves left to complete this year. Decem-Boar an exciting finish to the 2021 year. My launch into the dreaded Fixed Four Forever. (? maybe ?? i hope so) Last few shaves continue to find slight improvements in comfort. My whisker growth and skin, confirm improvements. Gaining familiarity with soap and brush a joyful hurdle. ATG Single Pass Shave - Seven Day Rotation has fallen into a scheduled, comfortable, anticipated routine.

Over the next six shaves to year end I’ll try to explain my choices, with opinions and user reviews.

My shave journey to date, nothing has gotten into My Face bigger & quicker than Zenith’s B-35 Boar Hair Brush. A good place to start. The knot is continuing to move towards a plush softness. At a faster rate than the chubby (B-27) which has the same fine boar bristles. Boar hair knots are my favourite. The continued changing softness they develop and achieve. A brush knot always in motion. Excellent knot hair feedback in lather development and exquisite Face & Head Lathering. What is my ideal brush? I have four 26 and three 28mm knots. Big brush knots work better for me.

The 31mm x 57 mm boar knot is well over The Line of Big. I honestly thought I would prefer the chubby over this brush, but no. Not at all. This brush possess all favourite qualities of my other seven, boar & badger brushes. It has a bigger footprint and a strong raw feeling of available power. Not as soft as the chubby yet. Improved softness continues with every use. (A little extra towelling after each use)

Brush starts with a good twenty minute cold well water soak. (the water is softened) The brush squeezed damp has the SV puck’s warm bloom water poured into the hog bristles to dripping wet. The splashy start on the puck is where the power of this brush excels. The splashed bloom water is quickly licked up and springs into a nice creamy lather. Both Saponificio Varesino formulas capitulate with little fuss involved. I don’t time anything but my sense is. It is not more than a minute to fully load the knot. The boar hair has softened enough to easily hold a two pass load. It’s capacity will increase with further use.

Applying lather during the last few shaves usually required one water dip adjustment each side of the face and the lather held beautifully for a full face shave. Neck area is freshened up with more lather no adjustments required. Lather loaded brush. Stands ready like a lather dispenser. Ready to spread on beautiful creamy lather. The brush is controllable and easy to maneuver. The larger handle is starting to feel more natural with each use. The larger handle also promotes that powerful feeling. Like carrying a five pound hammer rather than a two pounder. Zenith’s brush dimensions work well managing lather, spreading to scrubbing. The scrub is perfect. I thought I would be using a barbers pinch for moustache and goatee areas, but have not found the need. The soft luxurious painting is starting to come through with improving softness. Face lathering excellence.

The big B-35 elevates head lathering to a knee knocking ecstasy. I love this brush. Better than expected performance. A boar still very much breaking in. It will get better. There will be more updates on the brush as the knot bristles develop.

Full disclosure: I have never built lather with a dripping brush on a juicy wet soap surface. It works like a charm with this brush and the three Saponificio Varesino soap pucks I am using. The lathers have been the best I’ve had, and I will be staying the course. Mantenere la rotta.

“Desire is the key to motivation, but it's determination and commitment to an unrelenting pursuit of your goal - a commitment to excellence - that will enable you to attain the success you seek.”
Mario Andretti


Fixed Four Family

Todays Shave

Grande & Feather
Saponificio Varesino Tundra Artica
Zenith B-35 Boar Hair

Was it the pre shave application of shea butter? Was it the B-35, Grande & Feather, the Tundra Artica? The shave vehicle. All parts of the vehicle need to be up to speed and have plenty left over. I’m not chasing BBS shaves. You need to have those to get to a luxurious shave. Simply put. A luxurious shave is an elevated skin experience. I didn’t feel any whiskers removed. I didn’t feel shaved in any way. My glowing skin feels relaxed and improved after the event.

Dripping wet bristles skidded onto the cake. Out of curiosity it took 21 steamboats to load the brute. I actually thought it took longer. I caught a little of that juicy soapy water overflow from the Tundra tin for later use. The bulging knots cloud like softness spread and released a creamy slick lather gliding over face and neck skin. You always take longer when it feels so good. A single water dunk adjustment was used for each side of the face. The lather creaminess and slick glide in the SV soaps remains the same even when thinned out.

“If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.”
Mario Andretti

My mantra for sure. The new set up was dialed back in speed. I am not used to the combination and went slower than usual. Many decades since I last used a hair brush. I watched and observed the Gold Teeth combing through the whiskers. It sounded just like brush strokes through my shoulder length hair. Long ago. Long gone. I could not feel the whiskers being cut. I could not feel the blade. The County radio station whispered soft jazz. So smooth, so much comfort. The main thought through my shave. Careful deliberate light strokes. I know all the difficult spots and adjusted accordingly. To finish. Thom @thombrogan waterboarding was used with cold well water. Nice.

Alum wasn’t even a consideration. Could not contribute to this face shave.

The hog slurped up the overspill saved from the face lather. Six steamboats around the cake good to go. I am feeling the knot more than the handle. We will soon become a unit. The head shave was quicker than usual. Careful deliberate light strokes. Increased the speed of the head shave. I kept feeling and searching for clean up‘s that are usually there. A quick excellent head shave. I wasn’t even trying to be fast. More water boarding. Close shaves remove lotsa skin. Witch Hazel followed by Hyaluronic Acid and Mango Butter. Pre and post shave skin prep are critical to my shave. They are a large part of the comfort I enjoy. Just to be saucy I splashed on Tundra After Shave face & head with abandon. I do not know how to describe the fragrance other than a cooling sensation.

Minimalism and the fixed four have elevated my shave comfort. The shaves repeatable and enjoyable. I would be nervous to change anything. I’ll post next five shaves here and Decem-Boar.

Happy Shaves

 

[JoWolf]

Decem-Boar 3

Closing in on a three year odyssey. Elevated shave comfort has been the goal. The boar brush my best comfort. My DE shave expanded with pre and post shave routines. Pre shave Shea Butter application requires a ten minute soak in. A foot massage is the last step in my pre shave routine.

https://y.yarn.co/c6285997-4a2a-455e-b0cb-95cf1b5f097e.mp4

Grande & Feather
Zenith B-35 Boar
Saponificio Varesino Felce Aromatica

Shea butter adds skin care with increased razor glide. Pre and post shave routines have improved my skin health and shave comfort. The new boar hair knot continues to develop with increasing softness. The Felce Aromatica is quick to build a stable lather with few adjustments required. My weekly ATG Single Pass face and head shave. Efficiency with great comfort. Achieving a higher level of comfort, my latest goal. Shave repeatability at a higher comfort level my most difficult challenge.

A swing and a miss just my average BBS not like the last shave. Alum was used and slight tingle here and there. The products and equipment are above average and that would leave skin condition and technique. My technique will continue to improve while using this fabulous kit. The brush continues to improve and I am in a very happy place with my shaves. Four shaves left this year. Refinement of comfort, the chase continues.

 

[JoWolf]

Feather - Double Edge Blade

All Shave components are extremely preferential. We wouldn’t have so many choices if they weren’t. The very best for me might be at the bottom of your list. Good, Better, Best is decided by the End User not the reviewer. Hopefully reviews help us to refine and make decisions to perfect our shaves. Improved shaves offer improved comfort.

The Japanese have a long history of sharp slicing blades. The Feather is in that category big time.

December will bring individual reviews of my Fixed Four Champions. My early blade sampling and tryouts were frustrating. I can not write a short succinct better review of the Feather. The tester a face and head shaver same as me. My experiences mirror the testers across the board. My shave was a traditional three pass shave at the time I started using Feather’s. I did not find disagreement in any of the testers reviews on any of the reviewed blades that I tried.

Feather Razor Blade Review

Feather razor blades are regarded in the shaving community as the sharpest blade around. Feather has a huge following of people that insist they are the best. When I started shaving with a safety r…

www.refinedshave.com

I will review My Beloved Fatip Gold Grande Open Comb Safety Razor next week.

 

[JoWolf]

Fatip Gold Grande Long Term Use and Review

The Game Changer .068OC was a memorable first shave. It was my first open comb shave. I purchased the Yaqi Mellon and the Gold Grande, shortly after. Closed comb razors wouldn’t be used again. The three open comb razors could fight it out for dominance. Reviewing my early postings, the Grande, I pegged for third position. The Grande obliterated the competition quickly and handily. I needed answers. Being very new and not understanding any of the design or specs Mike @Esox took me under his wing. Blade rigidity, blade exposure, blade gap were explained, and discussed. Mike threw in great pictures with lines and comparisons with Gillette’s New SC. An understanding of why and how started to jell.

Postings before and after in post below has Mikes explanations and great pics with bonus lines, defining differences.

GC.68OC, GOLD GRANDE, YAQI CHROME MELLON - A JOURNEY

Graduation 🎓 Four strangers are starting to become familiar friends. Even shaky times with handle failure, vendor dispute, animal funk, belligerent stiff hair, animal funk, belligerent stiff hair, a serious amount of fun. I am far from being a brush connoisseur or expert. I do have a better...

www.badgerandblade.com

My big takeaway.

Esox said:
My Grande outperforms every other DE razor I've used because of the generous blade exposure, the rigid design and the short guard span distance. There is no other razor I'm aware of, modern or vintage, that combines those three design elements.

Big relief for me. There were soaps, blades, brushes and a bunch of other stuff all new to me. Getting one item in my shave for stability would be the Grande. The foundation of my shave. Early Grande use became noticeably better with each shave. Always on the edge of amazement with the Grande’s available performance. Almost three years of use and I have come to enjoy and accept. If there is a limit to the Grande’s operational envelope. I have no idea where it is. The Grande is an efficient high performance razor.

I honestly wonder now if my three pass face and head shave could have morphed and reduced to a single pass shave. Without the Grande. Learning and developing shave technique while pushing the Grande and finding more efficiency’s became my routine shaves. The three pass shave went to two and then very quickly to a one pass. I always felt a high degree of confidence and it wasn’t long before the razor demanded a sharper blade. The single use Feather’s brought accelerated performance in efficiency and comfort. The Grande is a great head shaver as well. Developing technique using the same razor in my mind is an advantage. My shock not that far out of carts. All my shaves were BBS which were not common with my cart shaves.

I wouldn’t call the Grande a beginner’s razor. Little technical mistakes are not overlooked. The weight and balance of the razor is perfection for me.
The teeth are nicely rounded and smooth. Excellent for comfort and mobility. I use short quick strokes. Finding and maintaining the angles for steep and shallow strokes is intuitive. Transitioning between shallow and steep during a stroke is smooth and seamless. I use this stroke on my head shave. Buffing is efficient and quickly accomplished with little effort. From my early uses to my last shave. The Fatip Gold Grande has and continues to be a very exciting razor for me. Not being able to see or feel it’s performance limitations exhilarates me. I continue to improve my technique with enjoyment and pleasure. I look forward to every Grande shave.

Mike @Esox said:
“I like a razor that suits me and my technique. I want the razor to match me and how I want to shave. I dont want to match the razor, although I can if need be.”

Totally agree with you Mike. Some of us are lucky and fortunate enough to find the One.

Forgot to mention. Blade alignment before use should always be checked. Sometimes corrective adjustment is required. It’s rumoured that there are cosmetic defects on some Fatips. Mine looks beautiful to me.

 

[Esox]

Fatip Gold Grande Long Term Use and Review

View attachment 1375249

The Game Changer .068OC was a memorable first shave. It was my first open comb shave. I purchased the Yaqi Mellon and the Gold Grande, shortly after. Closed comb razors wouldn’t be used again. The three open comb razors could fight it out for dominance. Reviewing my early postings, the Grande, I pegged for third position. The Grande obliterated the competition quickly and handily. I needed answers. Being very new and not understanding any of the design or specs Mike @Esox took me under his wing. Blade rigidity, blade exposure, blade gap were explained, and discussed. Mike threw in great pictures with lines and comparisons with Gillette’s New SC. An understanding of why and how started to jell.

Postings before and after in post below has Mikes explanations and great pics with bonus lines, defining differences.

GC.68OC, GOLD GRANDE, YAQI CHROME MELLON - A JOURNEY

Graduation 🎓 Four strangers are starting to become familiar friends. Even shaky times with handle failure, vendor dispute, animal funk, belligerent stiff hair, animal funk, belligerent stiff hair, a serious amount of fun. I am far from being a brush connoisseur or expert. I do have a better...

www.badgerandblade.com

My big takeaway.

Esox said:
My Grande outperforms every other DE razor I've used because of the generous blade exposure, the rigid design and the short guard span distance. There is no other razor I'm aware of, modern or vintage, that combines those three design elements.

Big relief for me. There were soaps, blades, brushes and a bunch of other stuff all new to me. Getting one item in my shave for stability would be the Grande. The foundation of my shave. Early Grande use became noticeably better with each shave. Always on the edge of amazement with the Grande’s available performance. Almost three years of use and I have come to enjoy and accept. If there is a limit to the Grande’s operational envelope. I have no idea where it is. The Grande is an efficient high performance razor.

I honestly wonder now if my three pass face and head shave could have morphed and reduced to a single pass shave. Without the Grande. Learning and developing shave technique while pushing the Grande and finding more efficiency’s became my routine shaves. The three pass shave went to two and then very quickly to a one pass. I always felt a high degree of confidence and it wasn’t long before the razor demanded a sharper blade. The single use Feather’s brought accelerated performance in efficiency and comfort. The Grande is a great head shaver as well. Developing technique using the same razor in my mind is an advantage. My shock not that far out of carts. All my shaves were BBS which were not common with my cart shaves.

I wouldn’t call the Grande a beginner’s razor. Little technical mistakes are not overlooked. The weight and balance of the razor is perfection for me. View attachment 1375287
The teeth are nicely rounded and smooth. Excellent for comfort and mobility. I use short quick strokes. Finding and maintaining the angles for steep and shallow strokes is intuitive. Transitioning between shallow and steep during a stroke is smooth and seamless. I use this stroke on my head shave. Buffing is efficient and quickly accomplished with little effort. From my early uses to my last shave. The Fatip Gold Grande has and continues to be a very exciting razor for me. Not being able to see or feel it’s performance limitations exhilarates me. I continue to improve my technique with enjoyment and pleasure. I look forward to every Grande shave.

Mike @Esox said:
“I like a razor that suits me and my technique. I want the razor to match me and how I want to shave. I dont want to match the razor, although I can if need be.”

Totally agree with you Mike. Some of us are lucky and fortunate enough to find the One.

Forgot to mention. Blade alignment before use should always be checked. Sometimes corrective adjustment is required. It’s rumoured that there are cosmetic defects on some Fatips. Mine looks beautiful to me.

I'm glad I could help!

There are so many points I could agree with you on John but, I'd only be repeating us both. I've not used that many DE razors compared to many on this forum, only 15 or so, but my Grande stands head and shoulders above all I have tried. I knew it had great potential on its first stroke. It just felt...right. Stable and secure with a lot of blade exposure to take advantage of. Learning to take proper advantage of that and put it to effective use however, took time. I used mine for a single pass ATG shave for two years. I learned much, both about the razor and the abilities of many different blades. The razor itself was never a weak point, only my technique was.

I'm not sure if you've tried any GEM razors or not John but, in my experience, the Bullet Tip matches my Grande in efficiency while being a bit smoother and more secure feeling. The MMOC, while being distinctly more difficult to use, surpasses it in all aspects.

 

[JoWolf]

I'm glad I could help!

There are so many points I could agree with you on John but, I'd only be repeating us both. I've not used that many DE razors compared to many on this forum, only 15 or so, but my Grande stands head and shoulders above all I have tried. I knew it had great potential on its first stroke. It just felt...right. Stable and secure with a lot of blade exposure to take advantage of. Learning to take proper advantage of that and put it to effective use however, took time. I used mine for a single pass ATG shave for two years. I learned much, both about the razor and the abilities of many different blades. The razor itself was never a weak point, only my technique was.

I was starting out at the time Mike. Your assurances kept me off the streets. Hiding in the House of Fatip continues to be a blast for me.

I'm not sure if you've tried any GEM razors or not John but, in my experience, the Bullet Tip matches my Grande in efficiency while being a bit smoother and more secure feeling. The MMOC, while being distinctly more difficult to use, surpasses it in all aspects.

I would have to say that it’s Back to the Future for me Mike. I came from carts more less a Minimalist.
I am not that far down the road from sojourns with western and Kamisori kin. I cherish the experience and the off shoot of honing which continues with much pleasure. I think I might well have crossed a line with my Grande technique. My abilities in trying a new razor would fall very short of being able to get to a an acceptable shave. My seven day ATG Single Pass Shave pigeon holes me. I am definitely a one trick pony. And that’s a good thing. I have recently set up my Fixed Four Kit. I continue to explore the finer upper limits of comfort available. I have had more than one shave recently that has redefined the comfort available to me. Decem-Boar is my first run at theses shaves. I’m 0 for 1 but four shaves left. Mike I have been riding the Grande almost three years exclusively. Even when using straights the Grande has never been benched. It is a very Black Thought when even a notion of using another razor, crosses my mind. I only see Gold