Am I in the Minority or is it just in my head. For the most part all blades are about the same. Some are obviously a little sharper then others. But to really notice the blades’ performance you have to shave against the grain. Shaving wtg and cross the grain for the most part all blades feel about the same.
Double edge blade theory.
- Thread starter Madeinussr1981
- Start date
I usually shave WTG on my first pass and I can notice a difference right away especially if the blade is rough or dull. I used a Bic Chrome Platinum recently and I could not feel the blade against my face. The shave was excellent. However when I used a Ladas blade, I felt like I was shaving with a serrated steak knife. So, I can tell usually on the first stroke.
This is the number one example of YMMV! I recently pitched a month old blade and replaced it with the same kind. Huge difference.
Its down to a number of factors from: beard/skin type, technique, experience, etc. I noticed a big difference in wtg going from modern to vintage blades years back...
Ron R
I survived a lathey foreman
Mostly not a large difference but still smoothness is a big part of a good blade and that comes from some coatings and the way they grind it IMO. Some one should do a blind test to see if they know the differences, like drinking Coke & Pepsi side by side.
There is fellow who has 2 identical razors and gets his wife to load them and he shaves with them (Blade wars with @cw62803 )
that draws a lot of folks who are curious and it is up to audience to figure what blade won, lots of times they are close comparisons & some easy to figure which is the better blade.
I enjoy variety in blades!
For me the key factors are:
Sharpness
Smoothness/comfort
Longevity
And I note large differences, but, ‘What do I know?’
For me the key factors are:
Sharpness
Smoothness/comfort
Longevity
And I note large differences, but, ‘What do I know?’
I can definitely detect differences between a blade that works for me and one that does not on the first, WTG pass.
Sometimes it's a subtle difference, sometimes not. A blade that works for me just gliiiides across my face without resistance and very little audible feedback. Conversely, a blade that does not work as well for me shaves with a sort of scraping sensation, for lack of a better way to put it. This scraping is something I can both hear, and feel, even on that first WTG pass.
Sometimes it's a subtle difference, sometimes not. A blade that works for me just gliiiides across my face without resistance and very little audible feedback. Conversely, a blade that does not work as well for me shaves with a sort of scraping sensation, for lack of a better way to put it. This scraping is something I can both hear, and feel, even on that first WTG pass.
Ron R
I survived a lathey foreman
There is a difference with a certain blades that I used one this morning & forgot to mention, the Kai SS and Sputnik blades are wider than a Standard Gillette blade. The Kai is (9/1000) & Sputnik (9.5/1000) inches wider giving more blade exposure or blade feel.
Have some great shaves!
Have some great shaves!
Shave with a Gillette Platinum or Silver Blue and then a Treet “Black Beauty” carbon. If you don’t feel a difference then you are in the minority I’d have to say. They are like night and day to my face. I think it’s great that you are able to use just about any blade. I’m ever so slightly jealous.
For me most blades I've tried have it's own unique thing going.
The biggest thing that struck me was how different blades perform better (or worse) depending on what razor I use, but the thing that sold me on my current favorite DE blade is that it works flawlessly in most razors I've thrown at it, and can't say that for any other blade I've tried.
As always, YMMV.
The biggest thing that struck me was how different blades perform better (or worse) depending on what razor I use, but the thing that sold me on my current favorite DE blade is that it works flawlessly in most razors I've thrown at it, and can't say that for any other blade I've tried.
As always, YMMV.
I can notice the difference between a Personna lab blue and a Derby Extra. It's difficult to notice the difference between a Shark Stainless and Derby Extra. Rapira Platinum Lux and Astra Superior Stainless are very similar, I don't notice a difference between them.
For a guy who's always chasing interesting razors you'd think I was also chasing all the blades. Not so! I did chase through a bunch that I could get fairly easily, but the chase ended when I found the Astra SP DE, the Kai Captain Titan Mild PINK AC, and the AccuTek/Personna PTFE coated Gem blades.
Yeah, I always buy the same tires for my pickup, too.
O.H.
Yeah, I always buy the same tires for my pickup, too.
O.H.
I usually shave the same way everytime so you really notice a blade's performance right away. I guess you could say crappy blades are all the same but when you find a good smooth blade that cuts well, you will notice a difference
I have a very tough, coarse, old man, white beard. I also have very sensitive skin due to Rosacea. That combination makes it easy for me to distinguish very sharp vs not so sharp and smooth vs not so smooth, I have tried about 30 different blades from a variety of manufacturers around the world. There are about ten of them I find to be very sharp and smooth, about ten that are sharp enough and smooth enough to use, and about ten that I prefer not to use because they are either too dull or too rough.
Feather blades are unusual in that they are super sharp and smooth on the first shave, OK on the second, but terrible on the third.
For someone with a less coarse beard and less sensitive skin, I can see most blades being sharp enough and smooth enough. However, as you age, your beard hair becomes coarser and your skin becomes thinner. Thus, the blades that work for you today, might not be ideal 25-50 years from now.
Feather blades are unusual in that they are super sharp and smooth on the first shave, OK on the second, but terrible on the third.
For someone with a less coarse beard and less sensitive skin, I can see most blades being sharp enough and smooth enough. However, as you age, your beard hair becomes coarser and your skin becomes thinner. Thus, the blades that work for you today, might not be ideal 25-50 years from now.
You are one lucky man! Buy 500 of the cheapest blades you can find and never think about them again.
I don't know if you're in the minority, but I can feel a difference between most blades very quickly.
It's both YMMV and very real physical differences between blades. Regarding the latter, real physical differences I've observed and or seen research/observations from others include:
1) Thickness of the blade e.g. .1mm vs .09mm
2) Angle of the hone at the edge. Have seen microscopy analysis of this can can observe some of this with the naked eye between my Derby's, Dorco's and Astra blades. Per others feathers have a very sharp hone (narrow angle) that delivers their sharpness though the thinner edge, while extra sharp, may be less resilient resulting in many users who post only realizing a couple good shaves (see RayClem above) from the feather. Adoption of the cathedral honing technique (blade edge honed at multiple angles) is also a material difference.
3) Blade coatings such as teflon that helps reduce friction (contributing to a smoother shave with less pulling) and platinum for cutting edge resiliency. However I suspect teflon can initially dull the blade until it's worn off during the first shave per my experience with double coated Dorco Primes that deliver their best performance starting with the second shave. Some microscope images appear to support this.
4) Type of steel: stainless vs. carbon.
5) Production line output variability. We've all had the occasional blade that seems to last forever as well as the one that never makes it through its first shave from the same bulk pack.
YMMV due to technique, prep, beard type, skin resiliency, etc. is also a major factor. Have seen many posts on this such as those that revisit a first blade that did not work well and now achieve great performance thanks to improved technique from practice or the purchase of a razor with characteristics that better match the blade. I've experienced this myself, as I've learned how to better angle my razor and build better lather (both technique, brush quality and enhanced custom home made blend) that optimizes slickness, cushion and is longer lasting. My blades now last longer than when I first started. Depending on the brand I used to be in the 3 - 5 shaves per blade and now range from roughly 4 - 8.
1) Thickness of the blade e.g. .1mm vs .09mm
2) Angle of the hone at the edge. Have seen microscopy analysis of this can can observe some of this with the naked eye between my Derby's, Dorco's and Astra blades. Per others feathers have a very sharp hone (narrow angle) that delivers their sharpness though the thinner edge, while extra sharp, may be less resilient resulting in many users who post only realizing a couple good shaves (see RayClem above) from the feather. Adoption of the cathedral honing technique (blade edge honed at multiple angles) is also a material difference.
3) Blade coatings such as teflon that helps reduce friction (contributing to a smoother shave with less pulling) and platinum for cutting edge resiliency. However I suspect teflon can initially dull the blade until it's worn off during the first shave per my experience with double coated Dorco Primes that deliver their best performance starting with the second shave. Some microscope images appear to support this.
4) Type of steel: stainless vs. carbon.
5) Production line output variability. We've all had the occasional blade that seems to last forever as well as the one that never makes it through its first shave from the same bulk pack.
YMMV due to technique, prep, beard type, skin resiliency, etc. is also a major factor. Have seen many posts on this such as those that revisit a first blade that did not work well and now achieve great performance thanks to improved technique from practice or the purchase of a razor with characteristics that better match the blade. I've experienced this myself, as I've learned how to better angle my razor and build better lather (both technique, brush quality and enhanced custom home made blend) that optimizes slickness, cushion and is longer lasting. My blades now last longer than when I first started. Depending on the brand I used to be in the 3 - 5 shaves per blade and now range from roughly 4 - 8.
@Madeinussr1981 It's in in your head or more likely your face. Check @South Dakota Guy Eye Test threads for a reality check.
Grab an Astra SP and a Gillette Silver Blue and compare it to anything not from Gillette in St. Petersburg and you'll learn something. I'm trying to find a non Gillette replacement DE and it ain't easy.
I'm still confused why a sharp blade isn't also a smooth blade. My fixed blade guts and skins smoother when sharp...
Grab an Astra SP and a Gillette Silver Blue and compare it to anything not from Gillette in St. Petersburg and you'll learn something. I'm trying to find a non Gillette replacement DE and it ain't easy.
I'm still confused why a sharp blade isn't also a smooth blade. My fixed blade guts and skins smoother when sharp...
A razor performs in a different manner to a knife, even though both are cutting edges. With a razor, the blade moves perpendicular to the beard hairs. With a knife, movement is usually diagonal, a slicing motion.
From my experience honing straight razors, I know that a sharp blade is created by achieving a very thin edge at the apex. However, a very thin edge can develop microchips which will cause the edge to feel harsh/rough rather than smooth. That is why many who shave with straight razors like to polish the edge with pasted strops after honing. The honing makes the edge sharp and the stropping enhances the smoothness.
Unlike straight razors that are naked steel, DE blades almost always have some type of coating. That might be a thin coating of non-ferrous metal such as platinum, titanium, iridium, etc. There may also be some type of polymer coating such as Teflon. The coatings will make the edge smoother, but will also make the edge thicker and reduce sharpness.
To me, the best example of a sharp blade are Feather blades which have a very thin edge. However, because the edge is so thin, it easily develops microchips and becomes harsh with use. I can only get two good shaves before they start to feel harsh on my face.
To me, one of the best example of a smooth blade is the Personna Comfort Coated (Lab Blue) blade made by Accutec Blades. The polymer coating is so thick that the blades are very smooth out of the wrapper, but they are not particularly sharp. As you use the blades, the polymer coating starts to wear off and the blades become quite sharp. I do not enjoy using Lab Blue blades on the first shave as the edge is not sharp enough for my coarse beard. I always get tugging. After the first shave, the sharpness improves and I can use them until they start to become dull a few shaves later.
It is easy to produce an edge that is very sharp. It is easy to produce an edge that is very smooth. It is not easy to produce and edge that is both very sharp, yet very smooth. Those are the blades that I like to use with my coarse beard and sensitive skin.
Those who have beards that are not so coarse and skin that is not so sensitive can use many blades that I cannot use. For example, Astra SP blades are a favorite of many shavers, but I get poor shaves if I use them. They are neither sharp enough nor smooth enough for me. That is why blades are such a YMMV aspect of shaving.
Chandu
I Waxed The Badger.
I do notice a difference. I shave both WTG and ATG. I can tell even on the WTG pass. My chin hair seems tougher to cut and I will notice many blades that are known/said to be mid range on sharp, but high on smooth tend to bog down on my chin. Sharper blades don't bog down. The other difference I think is also attributed to sharpness is sharper blades shave me closer.
I also notice differences in the same blade from razor to razor. Even with a similar gap and exposure, how close to the edge they are clamped or supported makes a difference. So, you may not like a blade one razor and like it in the other. I find that a blade I find really good in one razor is usually at least good in another.
I also notice differences in the same blade from razor to razor. Even with a similar gap and exposure, how close to the edge they are clamped or supported makes a difference. So, you may not like a blade one razor and like it in the other. I find that a blade I find really good in one razor is usually at least good in another.
I usually do a four pass shave: WTG, XTG, ATG, and clean-up. I often use a different razor and blade combination for each pass. I need a very sharp blade for the ATG pass, especially if I am shaving a two-day growth. However, I can tolerate a slightly less smooth blade for that pass because I am not trying to get super close. I can tolerate a slightly less sharp blade on the XTG pass as much of the growth has been removed, so I do not get as much tugging. For the ATG and clean-up passes I want blades that are both super sharp and super smooth so I can get a very close shave with zero irritation. Thus, I save my best blades for last.
Using this strategy, I can use most of the blades I have purchased over the past few years. However, there are blades that just are not sharp enough or smooth enough for either pass.
