Rusty Blade’s Wet Shaving Journey

[Rusty Blade]

For most people that you meet in your daily travels the words "Fatboy" or "Slim" don't carry much meaning. They would think you are referring to someone's body shape or the name of a rap star. But for us wet-shavers those words conjure up the golden age of shaving when Gillette was at the top of their game. And what heart doesn't skip a few beats when one of these razors are spotted in an antique store display cabinet? For those of us who collect vintage razors the Fatboy and Slim typically hold a prominent place in our display cases. Full credit goes to the engineers of Gillette who designed and produced these razors that are still in regular use today. One of my most prized razors is my father's 1958 Gillette Executive gold Fatboy.

Many of us dream of the day when Gillette retools one of their cartridge razor factories to restart production of their line of adjustable safety razors. Fortunately, modern razor manufacturers have picked up the gauntlet and are making adjustable razors. And there are some fine examples available in the marketplace.

And yet there is another part of me that just doesn't quite get the magic of the adjustable razor. Both my Fatboy and Slim are set at 5 and have stayed there since my first or second shave. Seems like a lot of engineering complexity went into one single adjustment. I think the adjustable feature was good marketing, but a bit overkill in terms of a wet shaver's daily needs.

Still, I give full credit to Gillette and the makers of modern of adjustable razors. It's truly amazing how much engineering can fit into one small shaving device that fits in the palm of your hand. And I will be the first in line to order the new Gillette adjustable razor...if ever one is produced. And I will probably set it on 5 and leave it there for eternity.

 

[Rusty Blade]

Here is my shave kit for the coming week starting Sunday (tomorrow). Another week of unscented shaves. I am finding less and less joy in scented products. I know I flip around on this issue, but I am finding scents bother me more. I think because many are chemical based fragrances and the leave me feeling unwell. Plus I like to focus on the lather and the shave, not the scent. Fortunately, I have some outstanding unscented products from which to choose.

Razor: EJ 3one6
Blade: Tiger
Brush: Various
Soap: Henry et Victoria unscented
Post: Lucky Tiger, H et V unscented ASB

 

[Rusty Blade]

I find myself very funny. A never ending source of entertainment. A real hoot. How could any one person be so funny I ask. I just read through the last 5 or 6 pages of my journal and I realize I am consistently inconsistent, forever changing my mind, like the wind in a storm I come at things from every angle. Like a dog who chases his tail in one direction and then chases it in the other direction. One day I am this and the next day I am that. Consistent in my inconsistency. I should end every post in my journal with a disclaimer: "The views expressed in this journal should be taken with a very large grain of salt. Read this today and understand my views will likely change tomorrow."

But what of it I say. In my working life I have to be so precise and definitive about everything. No room for error or inconsistency. People look to me to be on my game and rock solid every day. So why, in my fantasy world of wet-shaving, can't I be changeable in my views? Maybe wet-shaving is the yang to the yin of my work life. Or is it the other way around? I like being able to say -- of all my brushes I love boar brushes the most one day and then change my mind the next day and say synths rule the brush shelf. Or say I am never purchasing another soap until I use everything I already own and then a week later place a large order for 4 different soaps. And what difference will it make in the long run? Not a bit. No one is going to stop breathing because I ordered three more brushes and two aftershaves. I think we all need a space where we can escape...even from ourselves. But as I said above, take this with a grain of salt...my views will likely change tomorrow. I blame it on the pandemic. Stay tuned...

 

[Rusty Blade]

My next few posts will be a stroll through my den and identifying some of my favourites...starting with brushes. When I first started shaving back in the day I only ever had one boar brush and I would use it until it died and then buy another. And even when I started developing ADs my BAD was the last one to develop. I never put a lot of stock in brushes -- they were means to an end. I would rate them my least important shaving item. And even when my BAD started taking hold I never thought I would enjoy synthetic brushes -- I was an old school natural fiber kind of guy. But that quickly changed. I now have 5 synthetic brushes.

To begin I have too many brushes (around 25 new and vintage), but I can't resist a nice looking brush and the truth is I found it hard to pick favourites...I like them all for different reasons. But I forced myself to go through them one by one and pick one from each category: horse, synth, boar and badger. Not an easy task. I'm not up on names and numbers and knot sizes...but I do know the make, so I will start with that.

My favourite horse brush is a Vie Long old style handle. A fine brush and surprisingly soft. Love the handle for a deep dish soap container.
My favourite synthetic brush is the Edwin Jagger. I have several synthetic brushes and this hits the Goldilocks spot...not too hard, not too soft...just right.
My favourite boar brush is a Semogue. I have had this brush for a long time now and it was a tough choice, but this one rises above the rest.
My favourite badger brush is the Simpson Special. This is an excellent all around brush.

I notice all my choices are smaller brushes. I think I prefer the control I have with a smaller brush and indeed most soap containers are not really that big, so it makes it easier to build a lather. If I had to empty my den of all my brushes except these four, I would be quite content. All excellent choices...for me.

 

[Rusty Blade]

The next installment in my den of favourites is my DE and SE razor. I will do straight razors another day. To begin, I have way too many razors. RAD infected me very early in my wet shaving journey. I have been collecting for several years now and I have amassed quite a nice collection. I have shaved with every one of them at one time or another. I think I only have maybe 5 new (modern) razors and the remaining razors are vintage.

Before I name my top two razors I think a few Honorable Mentions are appropriate. My Gillette Fat Handle Tech was my first vintage razor and I still think this is an amazing razor. The Gillette Executive (Gold Fatboy) is also high on the list. I have my father's Gillette Executive and it is a prized possession. The final Honorable Mention goes to the Gillette Slim. This is a wonderful razor to shave with and it is an engineer marvel in my opinion.

My top two razors were really selected over a period of years as I have experimented with all my razors. I could easily pick my top 15 razors because I believe there are that many outstanding razors. But my goal was to boil the top contenders to the best of the very best.

My top DE razor is the Edwin Jagger 3one6. This is a stainless steel razor. It has good heft, balance and good geometry. A absolute pleasure to use. I will review blades in my next installment of my favourites. I have used all my different blades in this razor and I get a great shave with all of them. Always a smooth shave.

My top SE razor is the Schick Type G injector. I love the old school design of this razor. The first time I used it I had to check that there was a blade in the slot. It was that smooth. Finding the cutting angle came intuitively. It is a pleasure to use this razor and it is a cut above all my other SE razors. Always guaranteed a smooth shave.
If I had to grab only two razors and run for the hills these would be my two picks.

 

[Rusty Blade]

The next installment in my discussion of my favourites is razor blades, specifically DE blades. Over the years I have tried many, many different blades and a few years ago I did a razor blade experiment trying various blades and rating them using different metrics. Blades are very much a YMMV thing. One guy can use a Gillette Silver Blue and love it and another guy can use the same blade and end up with a lousy shave.

My assessment of DE blades is pretty simple. Price is not a big factor in my assessment of blades. All DE blades in my view are inexpensive. The difference between $10 for 100 DE blades and $30 for 100 of another blade is not enough to lose sleep over. I also find it odd that people assess DE blades based on sharpness. They are all sharp. If you don't believe me run your finger down a Derby Extra and a Feather blade and you will see they are equally sharp. Smoothness is the most important factor when assessing a blade. I like a blade that is smooth from the first shave, though I know most blades have a bit of an edge on the first shave and they mellow out with each subsequent shave. My top 3 blades are smooth from the first shave.

First, the Honorable Mentions. Two Derby blades fall into this category: Derby Extra and Derby Premium blades. I get great shaves from both and in my opinion these are excellent blades. A third Honorable Mention DE blade is the Astra SP. A fine blade...one that I used for many years.

Now to my top 3 DE blades:

My number 3 blade is the Gillette 7'o'clock Sharp Edge. A fine blade, smooth from the first shave. Same with my number 2 pick, the Gillette Silver Blue. Indeed in my blade experiment of a few years ago the GSB ended up in first place. An excellent blade. My number one pick, and a relatively recent addition to my den, is the Tiger Platinum DE blade. This blade made it into the number one position by a razor thin edge. The truth is, any one of these three blades will provide an outstanding shave. All three pair well with my top DE razor the EJ 3one6.
If I had to quickly evacuate the house I would grab these three blades and run.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

The next installment in my discussion of my favourites is razor blades, specifically DE blades. Over the years I have tried many, many different blades and a few years ago I did a razor blade experiment trying various blades and rating them using different metrics. Blades are very much a YMMV thing. One guy can use a Gillette Silver Blue and love it and another guy can use the same blade and end up with a lousy shave.

My assessment of DE blades is pretty simple. Price is not a big factor in my assessment of blades. All DE blades in my view are inexpensive. The difference between $10 for 100 DE blades and $30 for 100 of another blade is not enough to lose sleep over. I also find it odd that people assess DE blades based on sharpness. They are all sharp. If you don't believe me run your finger down a Derby Extra and a Feather blade and you will see they are equally sharp. Smoothness is the most important factor when assessing a blade. I like a blade that is smooth from the first shave, though I know most blades have a bit of an edge on the first shave and they mellow out with each subsequent shave. My top 3 blades are smooth from the first shave.

First, the Honorable Mentions. Two Derby blades fall into this category: Derby Extra and Derby Premium blades. I get great shaves from both and in my opinion these are excellent blades. A third Honorable Mention DE blade is the Astra SP. A fine blade...one that I used for many years.

Now to my top 3 DE blades:

My number 3 blade is the Gillette 7'o'clock Sharp Edge. A fine blade, smooth from the first shave. Same with my number 2 pick, the Gillette Silver Blue. Indeed in my blade experiment of a few years ago the GSB ended up in first place. An excellent blade. My number one pick, and a relatively recent addition to my den, is the Tiger Platinum DE blade. This blade made it into the number one position by a razor thin edge. The truth is, any one of these three blades will provide an outstanding shave. All three pair well with my top DE razor the EJ 3one6.
If I had to quickly evacuate the house I would grab these three blades and run.

View attachment 1105614

The Derby Extra and Premium work well for me too, as does the Astra and SharpEdge. Three of those blades are in my top five, accompanied by Wilkinson Sword Classic and Feather. The GSB always feels prickly and scratchy to me, and sometimes feels like I'm shaving with a hacksaw blade. I haven't tried the Tiger.

 

[Rusty Blade]

The next installment on my list of favourites is soaps and creams. It was a challenge to narrow down my soaps to just a few. There are so many amazing soaps and creams on the market. But for my purposes I was able to narrow it down to four. I have to state up front that I am having difficulty managing scented products, even though I identify two scented soaps in my top four. In recent years I have become sensitive to scented products of any kind -- quite simply, they make me sick. Brain fog, headaches, etc. Chemical sensitivities some would call it. So, increasingly I am narrowing my den to just unscented products and I am not disappointed by this unfortunate turn of events. I realize I prefer an unscented shave. Again, as with blades and brushes and razors price did not factor in my deliberations.

Over the years I have tried probably in the range of 50 to 75 different soaps and creams. Many ended up in the shower or a PIF box, but many were excellent. I can't even name them all.

There are so many Honorable Mentions I wouldn't know where to start, so I will just identify three: Proraso white, TOBS Natural Shave Cream which is preservative and fragrance free and Truefitt and Hill Ultimate comfort shave cream, which is mildly scented with lavender. All three are excellent products even though the Proraso is mildly scented.

On to my favourites:

My two top unscented shave soaps are Henri et Victoria Unscented and Stirling Naked and Smooth. And if I had to pick between the two then Stirling Naked and Smooth would take the top prize. Excellent soaps -- lots of slick, thick lather. Both are completely fragrance free which was a big factor in them making the top two.

My top two scented soaps -- in no particular order -- are Saponificio Varesino 70th Anniversary soap and Mitchell's Wool Fat. I can't say enough good things about these two soaps -- top shelf products, slick, rich lather and heavenly scents...when I can tolerate them. I can use them on occasion, but it is infrequent.

If there was an impending calamity and the sky was falling...and if I could only grab one among the four, I would grab my Stirling Naked and Smooth and make my escape.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

I prefer soap scented too. Not due to sensitivities, but because I find the scent distracting. I prefer my full attention to be on the shaving action, and having some of my awareness tied up with the scent of the soap, leads to a lesser shave in my opinion.

That said, I do have scented samples, and I will try to stick to that sample until it's done, in the hope that I get a bit nose-blind to it, and my attention to where it should be - the sharp blade on my face. Aside from those samples, I keep in just two soap scented products. Mitchell's Wool Fat for home use, and Palmolive sticks for travel. While not completely unscented, they are very ignoreable, and I can have my full awareness on the interesting, dangerous, and rewarding part of the shave.

 

[Rusty Blade]

The next installment of my list of favourites is aftershaves. Because I am scent sensitive and can't tolerate products that have strong fragrances my post-shave list is relatively short. Most aftershaves are defined by their scent. I have several really nice aftershaves and they look great on my shelf even though I am unable to use them. Once again, price does not factor in my deliberations. Aftershaves in the grand scheme of things are inexpensive. Overall, I am a balm kind of guy, not a splash kind of guy. I like the moisturizing properties of a post shave balm. I am not keen on the burn from alcohol based products. This is very much a YMMV kind of thing.

I have a few Honorable Mentions on my post shave list including Proraso white ASB, and Nivea Sensitive. Both are scented, but I can use them sparingly on rare occasion. Phoenix Artisan Accouterments makes an unscented AS splash called "Sin". This is a nice product and deserves an Honorable Mention. I have another AS splash coming in the mail that I have high hopes for, Stirling Soft Heart Unscented. If this makes the final list of top aftershave products I will post an addendum.

On to my favourites:

There are three on my list. Lucky Tiger in my view is an excellent product with great healing properties. It goes on smooth and contains no alcohol. I always keep two bottles in reserve. Perish the thought of running out in a time of need. The second on my list is Stirling Unscented ASB. This is the matching balm for the Stirling Naked and Smooth shave soap. This in my view is one of the best ASBs I have ever used. Goes on smooth and leaves my face feeling soft, smooth and revitalized. The third on my list is the matching ASB for the Henri et Victoria Unscented shave soap. This is an excellent product. Great face feel and lots of goodies to nourish the skin.

If the air raid warnings sounded, and I had to grab and dash, I would grab my Lucky Tiger and Stirling Unscented balm.

 

[Rusty Blade]

Here is my shave kit for the coming week:
Pre: Proraso white preshave
Razor: EJ 3one6
Blade: Derby Premium
Brush: Assorted
Soap: Soap Commander Integrity
Post: Lucky Tiger, Integrity ASB
Moustache Wax: Seppo's
A fine lineup if I do say so myself!

 

[Rusty Blade]

The next installment on my list of favourites is moustache wax. I sport a rather large Monopoly Man moustache, though formally I believe it is commonly referred to as a handlebar moustache. Over the years I have tried many waxes and there are several excellent ones available in the marketplace. And there are some that are just not up to my high standards. I prefer unscented waxes, though there is one (Groom) I have that is mildly scented with spruce scent, which I do like...just not all day. I have two particular favourites and two that I think are very good. Again, as with other aspects of my shave den, price is not a consideration. Waxes are inexpensive and necessary.

The Honorable Mentions are Fisticuffs Wax and Seppo's Wax. Both are very good and I do use them from time to time. One not shown in the photo that is also very good is Groom Wax, made in Montreal.

My top two waxes are: in the number two spot is Lucky Tiger and in top spot is Badger Wax. Both are excellent: they have good hold, scent free, easy to apply, and they don't melt in heat or drip when wet. I like the packaging on both.
If the bombs started falling and I had to only grab one and run, it would be the Badger Wax.

 

[Rusty Blade]

I've been getting some of the best shaves of my life lately. I've narrowed my regular products to my absolute favourites as noted in my posts above. But I am still up for adventure. So, I think its time to experiment with new-to-me blades. I collect many different DE blades. I always add a few to my online orders to be eligible for free shipping. I think it's time to try a few and be bold and daring. Stay tuned for my lineup of upstart blades to be put to the Rusty Blade Summer of 2020 DE test.

 

[Rusty Blade]

This post is a continuation of my den favourites. This time I will be reviewing my two favourite straight razors. To begin, this is not an easy task to select one or two favourites. I have in the range of 200 straight razors. Most are restored vintage and I have a few new SRs. I decided to select only two -- one vintage and one new. Again price is not a consideration -- you are going to pay a good price for quality straight razors. Honorable Mentions would require a long list. There are just so many great SRs out there...vintage and new.

My two favourite straight razors, beginning with the vintage category is the Carbo-Magnetic. This is such a nice razor. Made back in the 1910 time period, the geometry of this blade is incredible. Once honed it keeps an edge with only minimal maintenance. I really like the advertising that accompanied the razor. Lots of hype. This blade is still magnetic after all these years. I feel this magnetism has given me near super powers. I try not to flaunt it though....you understand...not good to boast about these things.

It is a definite favourite of mine and a regular in my shaving rotation. Made by the A.L Silberstein of 469 Broadway New York, makers of Griffon cutlery, the advertising is just so cool. Lots of false advertising, but hey, if you don't like it, then take up your complaints with the A.L. Silberstein company of 469 Broadway, New York! I have written for the "Hints on Shaving" booklet, but due to the pandemic I haven't heard back from the company...mail has been slow. Personally, I would give my left arm for the advertised set of two in leather case. Fortunately, I have two Carbo-Magnetic razors in their original packaging, both in excellent condition...just not the pair in leather case.

My favourite modern SR is the Wacker 6/8" with horn scales. This is such a nice razor, guaranteed to give a great shave every time. Not much more to say here...just an awesome razor.

 

[Rusty Blade]

I recently posted the following in the SR Shave Clinic forum and I wanted to keep a copy in my journal. The title of the thread was "SR shaving and Muscle Memory."

When I think back to when I first started shaving with a straight razor I realize a lot of the learning process was developing muscle memory. I am a natural lefty, so the switching hands was not the hard part. I have grown up and lived in a right handed world, so much of what I do is already using both sides of my brain. It is not uncommon for new SR shavers to have difficulty on the harder parts of the face, e.g. upper lip, chin, lower lip and for some guys, the neck can give them trouble. Once you have made the mental and monetary commitment to SR shaving it can be very discouraging to get cuts, irritation, weepers...or even worse, slices. These most often occur on those tougher areas of the face. The challenging angles, thickness of the stubble can make these areas very difficult and intimidating for someone who is new. For some the experience is so discouraging they pack it in and put their SR in the display cabinet. There are ways around this to make the journey to a full face SR shave a bit easier.

And this is where muscle memory comes in. One piece of advice I often -- no, always -- give to newbie straight shavers is to shave those easy parts of the face, in particular the fleshy cheeks, side burn area and maybe neck with their SR. A great feeling accomplishment can arise from this small task. Then for those difficult areas I suggest you do a first pass with a DE or SE to clear away the thickest, most stubborn parts of the stubble. Then follow up with a pass with your SR to these same areas. This will help to develop muscle memory and confidence for shaving those areas. Gradually, when you are more comfortable, you can cut into those more difficult areas with a first pass of your SR. Over a very short period of time you will be shaving your whole face -- blood and irritation free -- with your SR and you can shelve your DE/SE for good.

Some may say this is cheating and a REAL SR shaver wouldn't dare adopt "training wheels" like this. I say phooey on those naysayers. The objective is to reach a point where you are getting a great SR shave, feel accomplished and encouraged to continue with SR shaving for the rest of your days on this tiny planet. Guys I know who adopted this approach swear by it now to newbie shavers they are mentoring. Enjoy your SR shave...its the only way to go. That's my story and I'm sticking to it...

 

[Rusty Blade]

For some reason my mind was wandering today and I reflected back on an experience from many years ago. A work colleague of mine was an Aqua Velva man. And I mean really an Aqua Velva man. You could smell this guy a mile away. One evening my wife and I went to another town for dinner and the restaurant was quite large and while we were waiting to be seated this strong waft of Aqua Velva assaulted my nose.
Our conversation went something like this:

Me: Rick, a guy from work, is here.
Wife: Where is he seated?
Me: I can't see him, but he's here.
Wife: (eyes rolling) Don't be ridiculous.
Me: Wait and see.

We were taken to our table and around a turn and sure enough, tucked in a corner of the restaurant was Rick. Just a reminder gents. A little goes a long way.

 

[Rusty Blade]

Here is my shave kit for the coming week starting tomorrow:

Pre: Proraso white preshave
Razor: Schick Type G
Brush: Assorted
Soap: Henri et Victoria unscented
Post: Lucky Tiger, Henri et Victoria ASB
Moustache wax: Seppo

It's going to be a great week!

 

[Rusty Blade]

Here is my shave kit for the coming week:

Pre: Proraso white/green preshave cream
Razor: Gillette Executive / Tiger blade
Brush: Various
Soap: Soap Commander Integrity
Post: Lucky Tiger, MWF Hand and Body Lotion Unscented
Moustache Wax: Seppo's Stache Wax

This is a wonderful razor, indeed it was my fathers. A prized possession. The MWF Hand and Body Lotion is a new addition to my den. It is unscented and it is a fine product that is advertised as a hand and body lotion, but also can be used as an aftershave. Goes on easy, absorbs well and the best part is it is unscented.

 

[Rusty Blade]

I have pretty much made the shift to using only unscented soaps. I have PIFd many of my scented soaps already. I am keeping a puck of MWF and SV 70th soaps for occasional use. I find using unscented soaps helps me focus on the quality of the lather and not the scent of a product. I also only use unscented post shave products as well. And I feel much better without exposing myself to scented products.

 

[thombrogan]

I‘m looking to try Stirling Naked and Smooth based on your recommendation.