Rusty Blade’s Wet Shaving Journey

[Rusty Blade]

And today, in the vaults of the Rusty Blade shave den I found an unopened trio of Proraso green (I really do have too much stuff). Its always a pleasure to crack the seal on new products.

Pre: Proraso green preshave
Razor: EJ 3one6
Blade: Tiger
Brush; Semogue boar
Soap: Proraso green shave cream
Post: Lucky Tiger followed by a healthy dab of Proraso green ASB. Darn, I do smell nice.

Despite all the doom and gloom brought on by the pandemic, today was a beautiful, peaceful day. The sun was shining and a drive to the country to check on the cottage was just what this cowboy needed. A picnic lunch by the river, the sound of the water flowing by, the sun on my face, a slight breeze in whats left of my hair. Not another soul in sight. I hope everyone is safe and well.

 

[Rusty Blade]

MWF is one of my favourite soaps. Indeed, it could be my one and only. A desert island (or self imposed isolation) soap. Easy to lather, wonderful scent and a pleasure to use. So this morning MWF was front row and center.

Pre: Proraso white preshave
Razor: EJ 3one6
Blade: Tiger
Brush: RR Plissoft
Soap: MWF
Post: Lucky Tiger, DR Harris Aftershave Milk (rose scented).

Another day of beautiful sunshine. Hope everyone is safe and making the best of this time.

 

[Rusty Blade]

Today starts off as sunshine and later today we are supposed to get a nor'easter. I enjoy sunshine, but I also enjoy a good storm! [As long as the roof doesn't blow off].

Another foray into the Rusty Blade shave den vault has revealed another gem -- Pre de Provence shave soap. I haven't used this soap in a couple of years. Puck is in good shape, hardly used at all, I can still read the embossed print on the puck.

Pre: Proraso white preshave cream
Razor: Schick Type G
Brush: Rockwell synthetic
Soap: Pre de Provence
Post: Lucky Tiger, PdP ASB

What a heavenly scent! Reminds me of working in the herb garden. This is such a nice soap and matching ASB. A great way to start the day.

 

[Rusty Blade]

Is that lavender I smell? My, my, what a lovely fragrance early in the morning. Deep in the depths of the Rusty Blade shave den vault I turned up a tub of Taylor of Old Bond Street Lavender shave cream. What a treat!

Pre: Proraso white preshave cream
Razor: RR Eco
Blade: Crown
Brush: RR Plissoft
Soap: TOBS Lavender shave cream
Post: Lucky Tiger, DR Harris Aftershave milk (rose)

Wonderful shave. Hope everyone is safe and well. Today is a new day.

 

[Rusty Blade]

Given that we are in the midst of a pandemic and at home on self-isolation I thought it might be fun to develop a shave kit that would have been used by men in the era of the last great pandemic, 1919.

At this point I am thinking it would include one of my antique shave scuttles, a horse hair or boar brush, a plain soap puck...likely Valobra unscented or a puck of Williams (none of the wonderful fancy smelling stuff we buy today) and a straight razor...or SE or DE razor from that time. As for post shave I would probably use just plain Witch Hazel. (Lucky Tiger wasn't invented until 1935).

I should also look through the history books and see what Gillette and non-Gillette razors were available from that time period. (A quick Google and I see the razor sold by Gillette in 1919 was the Big Fellow...and it just so happens that I have one in my collection!). I may also see what razors were sold prior to 1919 and pick an interesting one.

This requires more thought...stay tuned. Suggestions welcomed.

 

[thombrogan]

Tardis
Proraso green pre-shave
FaTip Grande
Yaqi 30mm synthetic brush
Polsilver Super Iridium
Wickham 1912 Club Cola
Thayer’s Witch Hazel and Aloe
PAA Atomic Age Bay Rum aftershave

Given the function of the Tardis, everyone could have access to those products.

 

[Rusty Blade]

After some thought, here is my 1919 Spanish Influenza inspired shave kit.

Pre: warm water splash (what else would they have used?)
Razor: Wacker SR (a particular favourite of mine)
Brush: Omega boar (it doesn't get much more basic than that)
Soap: MWF
Post: Witch Hazel

I decided that while a Gillette would have worked equally well, most men at the time would probably have used a straight razor -- maybe not one as nice as a Wacker -- but a straight razor would have been more common at the time.

 

[Rusty Blade]

The days and the weeks go by and self-isolation seem to be settling into a nice groove of daily routine, My morning shave is an integral part of this routine. My morning shave has always been an important part of my day, but lately it seems to have taken on a new role in providing sanctuary. It is my way of saying I can't control much in this world, but what I can control is my morning shave. The wonderful scents, the ritual of my process, a nice warm towel, a fresh blade and a splash of Lucky Tiger and a fresh balm to cap it off. All very important to me lately. And with this morning shave I can face my day with optimism and a sense of hope. I count my blessings every day. We are grateful for what we have. A safe home, good food, family.

 

[Sotiris_A]

The days and the weeks go by and self-isolation seem to be settling into a nice groove of daily routine, My morning shave is an integral part of this routine. My morning shave has always been an important part of my day, but lately it seems to have taken on a new role in providing sanctuary. It is my way of saying I can't control much in this world, but what I can control is my morning shave. The wonderful scents, the ritual of my process, a nice warm towel, a fresh blade and a splash of Lucky Tiger and a fresh balm to cap it off. All very important to me lately. And with this morning shave I can face my day with optimism and a sense of hope. I count my blessings every day. We are grateful for what we have. A safe home, good food, family.

I feel exactly the same. Thanks for sharing this thought!

 

[Rusty Blade]

I saw a post that Merkur/Dovo was declaring bankruptcy. I may not have all the facts straight but regardless, I have been thinking for some time now that my collection was missing an icon -- the Merkur 34c. I am generally not a big fan of modern razors, though I have made an exception for the Edwin Jagger 3one6...one of my favourite DE razors.

I realized how embarrassing it would be in years to come when my grandchildren look in my display case and say, "Granddad...why don't you have a Merkur 34c?" Or more likely, "You silly old goat...why don't you have a 34c in this display cabinet?" Now I realize these razors are very common and I should not worry about scarcity. Still, what collection of DE razors would not have the 34c in a prominent place? I have the Merkur 23c long handle razor and it is a personal favourite when I travel. So, I decided to click purchase on the Merkur 34c this evening...just so I could have one in my collection.

My first store-bought Dovo straight razor was the Dovo Classis 6/8 and it has been a solid performer for many years now. A fine product.

While we are on Merkur...I generally don't speak negatively about any product -- after all, we all have our faults, and who am I to criticize -- but I am not a big fan of Merkur blades. I have tried many times and I just can't seem to get a good shave with these blades. I won't drone on about it...just a YMMV thing.

Hopefully Merkur/Dovo can find investors to assist them with recovery. I imagine many businesses will struggle with staying afloat during the pandemic. Tough time for everyone.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

I placed an order on hearing that Dovo were in trouble too. I wanted to have a spare head for my Merkur 985, so I ordered a 41C from English Shaving. This gives me a spare handle for my regular Jagger heads too.

In the same order, I went for a spare Jagger top cap, and a spare complete Jagger head. This gives me 2.1/2 spare heads and a spare handle for my favourite razors, all at half the cost of a 3ONE6. Plus they throw a pack of Feather blades in free with each of the Jagger components, so there's two free five packs in the box too.

I like the idea of the 3ONE6, but I'd rather stock up like this on razor parts that are already tried and tested, than take a gamble on one higher priced item. While my current Jagger head is deteriorating, it has been the primary razor for the last six years or so. £20 of spares should buy me another 10 to 15 years with it.

 

[Rusty Blade]

Since being on this self-imposed isolation I have noticed that I am doing more online shopping...mostly shaving supplies. As if I need them...which I don't...but somehow I managed to convince myself that another brush will be just what I need to satisfy my insatiable desire for the perfect brush. And last night it was the Merkur 34c...because I mean Merkur/Dovo was declaring bankruptcy...and...and...at that particular moment in time I absolutely needed one. I imagined a huge hole in my display cabinet without the 34c. I mean really...how do I convince myself of such fanciful notions? I need another brush and another razor like I need a hole in the head. And then somehow I managed to click purchase on a chain saw. Now how that figures into wet shaving I am not sure, but it is on the way as we speak. Perhaps I should order more styptic...

 

[Rusty Blade]

Boar, Badger, Horse or Synthetic...that is the question. Indeed, I enjoy them all, and I seem to go through phases using different ones. I have waaaay too many brushes to begin with, but I always seem to have my eye open for yet another to add to my collection. I have quite a few varieties of brushes (Omega, Semogue, Vulfix, Simpsons, Razorock, Edwin Jagger, Perker, Vie Long and maybe some others...can't remember).

Years ago when I first started shaving (45+ years ago) and I was a one brush, one soap (Williams), one razor kind of guy, I would buy any brush from the drugstore and use it until the bristles were falling out. And then I would buy another brush. It is surprising how long a brush can last with daily use. And really...who needs 20 brushes when one good one will do? (Don't get me started...)

I find it hard to justify spending a lot of money on brushes since I don't think quality of shave goes up with the price of the brush. I enjoy good looks and good performance and lately I am becoming mindful of the environmental impact of shaving brushes and so synthetic brushes have been more to my liking. I don't think any synthetic animals are harmed in the process of harvesting their bristles. And I do like horse brushes, but there is a scritchy-ness that I don't care for with some horse hair brushes. And the odour can be a bit much at times during the break in period. But it is my understanding that horse hair brushes are among some of the oldest brushes. Easily accessible back in the old days I guess. So they are easy on the environment, and that is a plus in my books. And I guess the horses didn't mind sacrificing a few tail feathers for a good cause.

My oldest brush is a Victoria badger that I picked up at an antique store years ago. I was worried about bugs and creepy-crawlies in the bristles, but I shampooed it a few times and it is an absolute gem to use.

Lately I have been really enjoying my boar brushes. A soak in warm water while I shower and the bristles are wonderfully soft. In my view they are similar to synthetic brushes in terms of performance. And you just can't beat an Omega or Semogue boar brush for an outstanding shave at very reasonable prices.

Badger brushes are also a treat to use, but for some reason I find the quality can vary wildly among brushes. And the price in my books can be hard to justify. A $350 badger brush is like driving a Jaguar to work instead of a perfectly acceptable Toyota Corolla at a fraction of the price. I know, I know...its my money and I can spend it my way. I am a practical person, so I find it hard to spend that kind of money on a brush. YMMV.

My favourite brush lately has been my Edwin Jagger Synthetic brush. It was my most expensive purchase (odd that it was a synthetic and not a badger), but it was a little treat for myself and I enjoy it very much. Soft, good backbone, easy on the eyes.

And now, as if I don't have enough brushes, I am looking for a small synthetic brush similar to the Simpsons Wee Scot or other tiny brushes. Surprisingly hard to find one of these critters. If you know of one, post me a note and let me know.

I still have a few years of shaving left in me (I hope) and it will be interesting to see what my next brush purchase might be...who knows?

 

[Rusty Blade]

I usually take a few days to plan my Shave of the Week kit. I don't like to rush things. These are very important decisions. A soap, razor, blade and a general ball park for brushes...and of course post shave. This coming week starting Sunday I will be using a particularly wonderful combination.

Razor: Schick Type G
Soap: Stirling Naked and Smooth Unscented
Brush: EJ Synthetic (and maybe a few others thrown in for good measure)
Post: Lucky Tiger, Stirling Unscented ASB
Moustache Wax: Badger

Its going to be a great week of shaves. And I say this with confidence because this is a fine product mix and the fact that it is unscented makes it even better. I have come to realize that while I do enjoy scented products (some more than others) I much prefer unscented shaves. The focus, for me, becomes the lather and the shave and not the scent which can at times overpower the experience. There are certain scents I like, for example, SV 70th Anniversary, MWF and maybe Pre de Provence. Most scented products, however, are a distraction from whats really important.

And I also suffer from periodic bouts of scent-sensitivity. And by this I mean during these times scented products of any kind can make me feel quite ill. So I have to be aware of what I expose myself to. In general I prefer unscented soaps.

I wish I was the kind of guy who could take a handful of Aqua Velva or Brut and slap it on and enjoy the scent all day, but truth is, doing that would likely put me in hospital. I guess I didn't win the genetic lottery.

There are some really exceptional unscented soaps on the market, for example, Stirling (as above, is probably my favourite), Henri et Victoria, Valobra makes a dynamite unscented soap, Lucky Tiger makes an unscented shave cream, and TOBS Natural. Truefitt and Hill make Ultimate Comfort, but there is a mild lavender scent -- fortunately very mild.

Anyway...that's my story and I'm sticking to it...

 

[Rusty Blade]

I've been restoring straight razors again lately. I seem to go through phases with my restoration work, but lately something kindled the flame. I am a regular at antique stores (or I should say I was...pre-pandemic) and throughout last summer and fall I accumulated around 20 new SRs. All requiring various levels of restoration. I usually spend the winter restoring my summer finds, but this year I didn't seem to have the motivation.

Typically, I will go through my box and pick out one to restore. My process is very low tech and I only use my hands -- no power tools of any kind. I don't like the noise and when dealing with a fragile -- and sharp -- item I prefer to have full control. My collection is getting quite big now...around 200 SRs, though truthfully I haven't done a head count in quite a while. I have them scattered around the house in different places. Just lazy really. Some are fancy, like the ones below, others are more the garden variety. Call me crazy, but sometimes I like to just take out a tray of my SRs from my display box and just look at each one. I find it very relaxing.

Here are just a few of my pretties:

 

[Rusty Blade]

Already starting to plan out my Shave of the Week kit for next week starting Sunday. I think next week will be a straight razor week. I spent an hour going through the Rusty Blade Straight Razor collection vault and I've picked out 6 razors that caught my eye. Three new, three vintage. I haven't picked my soap yet...but its likely to be Saponificio Varesino 70th Anniversary. And I think I will pick one brush -- likely a synthetic -- and use one brush for the week.

Left side (top to bottom):
1. Carbo-Magnetic. This razor was made around 1910 (or thereabouts)...and it is an absolute pleasure to use. It still has some of the original magnetism. How cool is that. While some think this "magnetic razor" was a cheap marketing ploy to sell more razors I have found that when I use this for several days in a row my eyesight improves and I am able to do complex math problems in my head.
2. Ralf Aust (Fendrihan etching).
3. Wacker (horn scales. This is one of my favourites...a gift from my wife)

Right Side (Top to bottom)
1. H. Boker (Micarta scales)
2. H. Boker (vintage find with amazing geometry and keen edge. I love the heft of this razor)
3. Genco (another vintage find...a wonderful cut throat. The only thing I don't like about this razor is there are no top or bottom jimps).

Over the years I have longed for a 7 day set but I have not been able to find a set that had all 7 razors in good condition. Over time I have come to realize that creating my own 7 day set comprised of different razors is so much more interesting. But you say, "Rusty, there are only 6 razors in the picture above. What gives?" Truth is I like even numbers.

 

[Rusty Blade]

I posted this in the General Straight Razor Talk forum. I wanted to post it here in my journal so I wouldn't lose track of it. If you read it there, no need to read it here...unless of course you want to...

I thought I would take a few minutes and describe how to get started with straight razors and how I hone my straight razors. There are other ways to hone a blade that work equally well. This method works for me.

A couple of items to set the stage. First, if you are new to straight razors I suggest you begin by purchasing a straight razor that has been honed by someone who knows what they are doing. This will serve as your baseline for how a sharp razor should feel and look. Study the edge under magnification to see what a good edge should look like. And learn what a good edge feels like when you shave.

In my case I felt it was important for me to learn how to shave with a straight razor before I started honing. There is nothing more frustrating than purchasing a “shave ready” razor that tugs and pulls and isn’t really sharp. Many online stores sell straight razors, but not all come shave ready. If it is not clearly stated then contact the seller and find out if the razor has been properly honed. “Shave ready” and “factory edge” are terms that mean different things to different people. A shave test will tell you pretty quick whether you have a properly honed blade. I purchased a new Dovo Classic 6/8 SR from Classic Edge. It came shave ready.

Second, to get started with SR shaving all you really need is a properly honed razor and a board or paddle strop. Why a board or paddle strop? As a beginner you may not want to make a big investment – you may just be dipping your toe in the SR waters. A board strop is inexpensive and very easy to use. I was that beginner and I wasn't sure SR shaving was for me. So I purchased a board strop. The flat surface provides good guidance to ensure you lay the blade flat and don’t strop too quickly. Beginners, hanging strops and the desire to strop a blade like a steam piston engine is a recipe for disaster. And if for some reason you do nick or slice your board stop your loss will not be significant. Good stropping is not dependent on speed, but rather precision. Once you are comfortable stropping you can upgrade to a hanging strop. Some might ask if you use a board strop then what about the linen strop that accompanies most hanging strop. A linen strop is not really necessary. You can also use newspaper as a strop – simple and inexpensive.

Third, I do not use pastes. Why? It is a personal preference and moreover, I do not feel they are necessary to maintain a good edge. And they are messy. I don't like mess.

The honing process:
Equipment you will need: I hone my blades with a set of Naniwa stones. 1k, 3k, 8k, and 12k is all you need. Indeed, a perfectly good edge can be had with the 1-3-8 combination. The 12k for me was a late addition to my honing kit – it was a nice addition to my kit, but not really necessary. But I do like it.

I soak my stones while I am getting everything set up. And I keep a small squirt bottle of water to keep the stones wet while I hone. I suggest you pick up a couple of old beater razors to practice with as you learn. A magnifying lens is very helpful when you first start honing.

Before you put blade to stone examine the edge of the blade under magnification. Look for uneven areas, chips, and any other imperfections. Vintage blades are rarely perfect. Don’t buy an antique store razor and try to strop it to sharpness. It won’t work. Reset the bevel and start from scratch each time.

I use one layer of electrical tape on the spine of every razor that I hone. I feel it preserves the spine and as long as you use it consistently it will not interfere with the geometry of the blade. I have around 200 SRs and I never have to wonder did I tape this blade when I honed it or not. Every blade is taped and it takes the guess work out of the equation.

I use my 1k stone to set the bevel. This, in my opinion, is the most important step in the honing process. If the bevel is not set correctly the rest of the honing process will be off kilter. Once the bevel is set properly then the remainder of the honing process is merely polishing the edge that you have established. Take the time to ensure you don’t rush this step. How do you know when the bevel is set correctly? I use three methods. First, I examine the edge under magnification and ensure there is an even edge on both sides along the entire length of the blade. I can also tell by the way the blade displaces water when I have it on the stone. And finally, I touch the edge of the blade on the flat part of my thumbnail and just gently test every point along the blade to ensure there is a slight grab. It is hard to describe, it does take some practice. Sometimes if your blade has micro chips or imperfections on the edge it may take a while to get your edge clean and even, but it is worth the time invested.

In terms of how to lay the blade on the stone, I suggest you watch some Youtube videos to see the general process. Everyone does this part slightly different. I tend to use full laps, up one side, down the other. Others use multiple strokes on one side then switch to the other. Be patient, check your work often under magnification and take your time. Use light pressure. You are not grinding an axe, light pressure is all that is necessary. If you find you are wearing through the tape on the spine then you know you are using too much pressure.

Once the bevel is set then move on to the 3k stone and then the 8k stone. If you have a 12k finishing stone then that’s great, but as I said earlier you can achieve a perfectly good edge with a 1-3-8k combination. With the 3-8-12k stones you are not removing much metal, rather you are polishing the edge you set with the 1k stone. At each stone you are seeking to ensure there are no striations or imperfections along the edge and that the surface of the edge is polished to a mirror finish. This is achieved by examining the edge under magnification. How many laps on each stone? Again, that is hard to determine because every blade is different. Use the visual test to ensure the edge is polished to a mirror finish.

Once you have an even, polished edge then you are ready to strop the blade. It doesn’t matter if you have a board strop, paddle strop or hanging strop, the process is the same. Fifty laps should be sufficient to finish polishing the edge. Go slow, take your time and be mindful to keep your blade evenly on the strop. If you can pop the hairs along your forearm at the heel, mid-blade and toe of the blade then that’s a good sign. Then you are ready for the ultimate test of your efforts – the shave test! A well honed edge will provide a smooth shave, no tugging, no missed patches, just smooth sailing. And there is no finer feeling than shaving with a blade you honed yourself.

A well honed razor, with careful stropping will not need to touch the stones for a long time. This depend on how often you shave with the razor and how thick your beard is, and how carefully you strop. There is no need for paste on your strop to freshen the edge. If you so desire, and after prolonged use, you can refresh your edge on the 12k stone, but I think you will be surprised how long a well honed and stropped edge can last.

As with most skills, practice will improve your process. Start on a couple of beaters before you hone that NOS vintage razor that you paid for with a second mortgage on the house. And most important – have fun. That’s what its all about isn’t it? Enjoy.

 

[Rusty Blade]

And here was an addendum to the above post on lapping your stones.

My process for lapping my stones is fairly simple and low tech, but effective. My process is suitable for Naniwa stones. I am not familiar with lapping stones made of other material, so keep that in mind.

The only equipment I use is a full sheet of 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and a flat glass top stove that is without any dips or indentations. Purchasing the sandpaper is inexpensive. Purchasing a glass top stove is a bit more pricey, but there are reasonable substitutes. The only criteria is-- whatever surface you use has to be perfectly flat and smooth.

I lap my stones about every 10 to 15 razors. If you do it frequently then less effort will be required to achieve a flat stone. If you leave it too long then you have to remove more material to achieve a flat surface. I would also recommend you give your new stones a light lapping. Stones are expensive so it is worth the effort to take care of them.

I begin by wetting the stove top (it stops the sandpaper from slipping around), then place the sandpaper on the stove top and wet it thoroughly so the water is pooling on the surface of the paper. I mark each stone with very faint pencil lines in an "X" pattern with a line through the middle. Or a series of diagonal lines. It doesn't really matter, just cover the surface with a pattern that will allow you to judge areas of high and low. The lines should be faint, but easy enough to see. The purpose of this pencil line is to see where there may be highs or lows in the stones that may have occurred from regular use.

The actual lapping part is easy. I generally start with my 12k stone and work my way down to the 1k stone. No particular reason. I've always done it this way. Also, you don't have to rinse the slurry that may be created as you switch from one stone to the other unless it is becoming a paste or if the stone is floating on the slurry. You want the stone to make contact with the sandpaper.

Begin with a light pressure in a circular motion. Reverse direction of the circular motion every 10 circles or laps. Keep the sandpaper wet. After a few swirls check your pencil lines and you will be able to see where the stone is high or low in certain spots. If after a few swirls with light pressure all the pencil lines are gone then stop -- your stone is flat. If there is a high or low spot then continue with a circular motion with light pressure until the stone is even and the pencil lines are gone. Don't put extra pressure on the high spot, this will create unevenness. Use a consistent pressure over the whole stone. If you are worried about the 400 grit making scratch marks on the stones, I have not experienced this. The key is a light pressure in a circular motion. And that's about it. Hope this was helpful. Enjoy.

 

[Rusty Blade]

In another thread I responded to this morning they were asking about how much shaving stuff you had. So I responded and wanted to enter my response in my journal so that in the future I can have a baseline for comparison. Here was my response to that thread:

Interesting thread. Let me begin by saying now I don't feel so bad about my collection. I was recently visited by the show "Hoarders"...they were planning a wet shaving edition. They walked around my place looking like goldfish in a bowl of water that was running low on oxygen. When the team of psychologists left my place they said they were going into some critical stress debriefing and will get back to me.

Seriously, I can only ballpark my numbers (I don't have that many fingers and toes):

1) Preshave: around 15 (creams and preshave soaps and oils)
2) Razors:
a) DE: 150 (I collect vintage Gillettes and I also have a few moderns)
b) SE: 35 (again I collect vintage Shicks and have a few moderns)
c) SR: around 200 restored vintage and a handful of moderns and 35 more vintage in a box to be restored)
d) Strops: 6 -- four vintage restored and 3 modern.
3) Soaps: 30; Creams: 15 (...and I did some serious cleaning out PIFs in the last couple of years)
4) Brushes: around 25, some are vintage for display only and others are my daily team
5) Blades: too many to count. I am reminded of the circus game where you have to estimate the number of jellybeans in a huge glass container about the size of those water bottles on an office water cooler. Well, that is what my tote box of blades looks like.
6) Vintage shaving scuttles, Old Spice mugs and moustache cups: around 25
7) Aftershaves: mostly balms -- around 30...some vintage Old Spice AS and the rest are new.

I plan to buy a second burial plot beside mine so that then I die they can pack in as much as they can in the second coffin. I don't believe in that old saying, "You can't take it with you when you die". I figure its worth trying. And I don't want to enter the after-world only to find out that all they have are cartridge razors and canned goo.

 

[Rusty Blade]

I see this issue of how to properly use a Simpsons brush appear from time to time. I understand the rationale presented by the makers of Simpsons brushes -- to preserve the bristles/hair then don't mash down and swirl on the brush. Rather, gently paint with the brush to load and apply lather. But I believe the same could be said of the $15 Omega or Dollar Store boar brush as well. Gentle use will prolong the lifespan of any brush, regardless of price. To me it is a bit like saying to preserve the life of your Jaguar don't drive it over 60km per hour...ever. In my view a brush is made to be swirled, mashed and used vigorously...otherwise there is no joy in shaving. If longevity is your goal then paint to your heart's delight. Me, I will use the brush as the brush gods meant it to be used -- until it falls apart and then I will buy another. Most of us have more brushes than we care to admit. Use them to their fullest extent.