Hello I'm relatively new to the single edge wege blade razors I started with a rolls and went on to a pall mall and kamfe bros.
I've seen on other threads about cutting down a gold dollar 66 for a kampfe bros "wedge" blade could the same be done for a wilkinson pall mall. The geometry on the spine of the pall mall is slightly different
Wilkinson sword pall mall blades
- Thread starter Ecrigger12396
- Start date
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
You can't simply cut a segment of a GD blade and stick it right in. You have to do a little grinding. You have to make it fit.
Here are a few different wedge type sets, and examples of their blades:
A few, such as the Rolls or Durham, can't be fitted with a piece of GD blade, because of proprietary mounting holes and such. Here is just the blades, with a generic GD blade:
Comparing the Heljestrand directly to the GD blade, you can see that it is pretty close. The GD blade is barely wide enough to work.
Now here is a Wilkinson next to the GD. As you can see, the GD is plenty wide and plenty thick for making a replacement blade for this set.
Often, you can simply install a disposable SE blade, if you just want to shave with it. You might have to make small modifications, and sometimes you just can't make that work.
When cutting and grinding, be sure to wear proper protective equipment. This isn't worth losing an eye over. And watch your contact time. It is very easy to overheat a blade. Once you see the Blue Stain of Death, you know you have toasted the blade. It is now over-tempered, and too soft to use as a shaving blade. You probably WILL toast a couple while learning to do this, so buy extras.And it will take a while to end up with a serviceable blade.Make sure your width is a few thousandths over, so you can hone it.
Here are a few different wedge type sets, and examples of their blades:
A few, such as the Rolls or Durham, can't be fitted with a piece of GD blade, because of proprietary mounting holes and such. Here is just the blades, with a generic GD blade:
Comparing the Heljestrand directly to the GD blade, you can see that it is pretty close. The GD blade is barely wide enough to work.
Now here is a Wilkinson next to the GD. As you can see, the GD is plenty wide and plenty thick for making a replacement blade for this set.
Often, you can simply install a disposable SE blade, if you just want to shave with it. You might have to make small modifications, and sometimes you just can't make that work.
When cutting and grinding, be sure to wear proper protective equipment. This isn't worth losing an eye over. And watch your contact time. It is very easy to overheat a blade. Once you see the Blue Stain of Death, you know you have toasted the blade. It is now over-tempered, and too soft to use as a shaving blade. You probably WILL toast a couple while learning to do this, so buy extras.And it will take a while to end up with a serviceable blade.Make sure your width is a few thousandths over, so you can hone it.
- Thread starter
- #3
Thank you for the info would quenching be a good idea? Like I don't intend to get the blade hot enough to cause the water to steam on contact but would using it to cool in between grinds work? I've done a lot of stainless work in fabrication and I was always told not to quench it do to causing microfractures and making it more brittle(this is also welding so a different animal) with carbon would it cause stress from cooling too quickly?
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
No yuo can't HT/quench a razor blade after final grinding. Too thin. It will warp, crack, and/or shatter. And there is no need unless you are starting with annealed bar stock. The GD blade is already heat treated, and also tempered. The idea is to preserve the existing state of temper by never letting the steel at any part get over about 325f or so. That is sufficient cushion from the temper temperature. Most guys figure .040" minimum thickness before heat treating. Doesn't matter how thick the main part of the blade is, if there is a bevel then the thinnest part is at the apex and is something on the order of microns.
If the razor never reaches temper temperature then you can dunk it in liquid all you like, to cool it. But that isn't quenching. That is just cooling.
If the razor never reaches temper temperature then you can dunk it in liquid all you like, to cool it. But that isn't quenching. That is just cooling.
