Which second SR?

[weston]

Greetings - "new" to the form after lurking over the years - thought I'd solicit input for a second straight razor - appreciate your thoughts in advance!

Background
Have been shaving with a straight razor for over a decade. Have suffered a great deal during that time, and the most profound "wisdom" I've won for all that suffering is the importance of the pre-shave routine. Specifically, for my face, a few minutes with a towel soaked in 170ish degree water makes all the difference in the world. From there, with the right soap, I find great pleasure within the ritual of it all.

My current SR is a ShaveSmith custom carbon 7/8 wedge that could chop some of the smaller Ponderosa's in my backyard; I love it. I've tried others (Dovo, Thiers Issard - blades ~5-6/8th - stainless and carbon), but for a combination of reasons never had great results, or nowhere near to what I'm getting now. I have thoughts about why, but they're likely wrong

Question
I'm looking for one additional straight razor to put into the rota (right now, it's SR when I have time, and DB safety when I'm in a rush). A few 'nice to have' features would be:

1. Vintage NOS, or superbly reconditioned vintage, or...
2. A name brand that has a deep tradition in SR shaves (clearly, Dovo and TI would fit that req)
3. A blade design that's more nimble and forgiving (have a French Nose on my current SR, which, if I'm not careful, likes to carve into my face - the most painful aspect of such mishaps are not experienced by my face, but my psyche, particularly when my wife looks at me post-shave in horror, followed by a quick transition into what a dumb-*** I am for making everything so hard)

Other Considerations
I like the idea of an old Filarmonica or Dorko or Wacker or... but I'm not sure how my romantic appeal squares with the reality of it all. Finally, I'm fortunate in that price is not a concern.

So, thanks for reading this and considering the request. Your input is valued.

 

[majorrich]

With so many amazing razors around, the field is truly yours! I’m quite partial to Swedish razors, but my trusty backups are my Henckels, particularly Friudors, and probably the great unsung Genco’s, which are incredible values and top performers.


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[RumpleBearskin]

It's hard to go wong with a vintage George Wostenholm & Sons or a Wade & Butcher, but you won't find them NOS and they will not be as hollow as a more modern razor. If a NOS showpiece is a major desire, then I love Dorko straights and have heard great things about Filis, though I have not shaved with one.

 

[Acmemfg]

The Koraat 14 2.0 is a wonderful razor, designed to be a tribute to the Filarmonica 14. Nice thing is you may set it up pretty much any way you like...creating your own personal heirloom and bit of history.

 

[dundak]

Get a new Wacker. Nice grinds and very traditional.

 

[macintoshBR]

My suggestions:
- Ralf Aust: many different sizes, shapes and scales
- Wacker Old Sheffield (I love this model)
- vintage Filarmonica or a Henckels Friodur if you can find NOS

 

[azwetshaver]

By more nimble, do you mean more hollow or smaller in blade size?

 

[Polarbeard]

Any 6/8 or 7/8 Henckels Friodur. They are all great and very forgiving shavers.

 

[Polarbeard]

With so many amazing razors around, the field is truly yours! I’m quite partial to Swedish razors, but my trusty backups are my Henckels, particularly Friudors, and probably the great unsung Genco’s, which are incredible values and top performers.


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I've missed you Rich

 

[majorrich]

I've missed you Rich

Thanks Arne! I’ll try to be around more. I’ve missed you too.


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[weston]

By more nimble, do you mean more hollow or smaller in blade size?

Thanks for the question. By more nimble, I mean something that is lighter and less inclined to get its way with my face, vs. the heavy wedge that I have. I imagine this means some kind of hollow grind, stainless, less wide, and perhaps a rounded nose for safety. Hope this makes sense.

 

[weston]

Thanks, guys - a few reactions:

• Completely clueless to Swedish steel, and after a short time googling, reveals there's much to learn - thanks
• Wasn't looking at Henckles - prejudiced against their knives - a misjudgment on my part regarding their razors
• Several other brands/options presented above, all appreciated

I greatest take-away is that my motive to get it 'all over with' by buying the 'perfect backup/second' was misguided. Instead, I should embrace the journey, and try a few of these things out. Appreciate you helping me get there.

Warmly, Weston

 

[azwetshaver]

Thanks for the question. By more nimble, I mean something that is lighter and less inclined to get its way with my face, vs. the heavy wedge that I have. I imagine this means some kind of hollow grind, stainless, less wide, and perhaps a rounded nose for safety. Hope this makes sense.

I would then recommend a Filarmonica 13. This model measures 13/16 and is not as spendy as the 14 so you could probably buy a third razor.

 

[majorrich]

Thanks, guys - a few reactions:

• Completely clueless to Swedish steel, and after a short time googling, reveals there's much to learn - thanks
• Wasn't looking at Henckles - prejudiced against their knives - a misjudgment on my part regarding their razors
• Several other brands/options presented above, all appreciated

I greatest take-away is that my motive to get it 'all over with' by buying the 'perfect backup/second' was misguided. Instead, I should embrace the journey, and try a few of these things out. Appreciate you helping me get there.

Warmly, Weston

Absolutely! Take your time to sample from a very great pool of truly excellent razors. You don’t need to spend a fortune to get a really great shaver from any of the suggestions here. (But seriously, do try a Swedish razor along the way, you will not be sorry)


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[Namkcakram]

I’ll second(third?) some of majorrich’s suggestions. Genco and a few other American brands are a SHOCKING amount of shave for the money and tough to beat at any price. I put Genco in the pool of razors stamped “little valley, NY” and a few other brands from western NY/PA. They have some of the finest grained steel I’ve ever seen and commonly come in very light almost dainty feeling shapes that just wipe hair off easily. $40 on eBay can often get NOS up to 6/8”, and NOTHING else comes close for $80+.

Also Swedish steel is worth trying, and my big recommendation is a Tanifuji or equivalent Japanese razor. Fukutaro Tanifuji was the first blacksmith in Japan considered to master the western style straight. And it’s important to clarify I mean “blacksmith”, not “skilled dude handling a grinder with a pre drop forged blank”. He liked Swedish steels, but I think he handled them better than the Swedes, and many of his razors metallurgically are on the same pedestal with the NY razors. I can’t tell if one is better than the other, but I’m just good enough at honing to tell they’re both finer grained steel than garden variety German/American/British razors.

 

[mawashi]

I’ll second(third?) some of majorrich’s suggestions. Genco and a few other American brands are a SHOCKING amount of shave for the money and tough to beat at any price. I put Genco in the pool of razors stamped “little valley, NY” and a few other brands from western NY/PA. They have some of the finest grained steel I’ve ever seen and commonly come in very light almost dainty feeling shapes that just wipe hair off easily. $40 on eBay can often get NOS up to 6/8”, and NOTHING else comes close for $80+.

Also Swedish steel is worth trying, and my big recommendation is a Tanifuji or equivalent Japanese razor. Fukutaro Tanifuji was the first blacksmith in Japan considered to master the western style straight. And it’s important to clarify I mean “blacksmith”, not “skilled dude handling a grinder with a pre drop forged blank”. He liked Swedish steels, but I think he handled them better than the Swedes, and many of his razors metallurgically are on the same pedestal with the NY razors. I can’t tell if one is better than the other, but I’m just good enough at honing to tell they’re both finer grained steel than garden variety German/American/British razors.

I nearly fell off laughing when I read skilled dude with a grinder lol.

For something truly exotic a hand crafted Iwasaki or kamisor is a real instrument not a stamp, grind, polish blade lol. That and true Damascus steel blades.

 

[Namkcakram]

I nearly fell off laughing when I read skilled dude with a grinder lol.

For something truly exotic a hand crafted Iwasaki or kamisor is a real instrument not a stamp, grind, polish blade lol. That and true Damascus steel blades.

Haha you clearly know what I mean! I don’t own what I would call a hand crafted razor, but I have quite a few Japanese chisels made by real blacksmiths and there is really no comparison with anything mass produced. If I could afford to go all out on this hobby I’d absolutely own a hand forged tamahagane Iwasaki.

You’d appreciate this though... there is no “true Damascus” produced currently. The one “true” Damascus is what is called “wootz” Damascus, and the beautiful pattern in it has nothing to do with folding the steel. In fact the steel may not be folded at all after the initial primitive vacuum smelting. The pattern in real Damascus isn’t from folding but from the impurities present in the starting iron ore that came from ancient mines near Damascus. There are a small handful of people alive who can make a convincing reproduction of ancient Wootz Damascus, and as far as I know it’s not sold or used for any products any of us own it’s more of a one off museum replica for huge dollars thing.

I don’t believe it has a high enough carbon content to be ideal for razors anyways so we’re really not missing out.

 

[mawashi]

Haha you clearly know what I mean! I don’t own what I would call a hand crafted razor, but I have quite a few Japanese chisels made by real blacksmiths and there is really no comparison with anything mass produced. If I could afford to go all out on this hobby I’d absolutely own a hand forged tamahagane Iwasaki.

You’d appreciate this though... there is no “true Damascus” produced currently. The one “true” Damascus is what is called “wootz” Damascus, and the beautiful pattern in it has nothing to do with folding the steel. In fact the steel may not be folded at all after the initial primitive vacuum smelting. The pattern in real Damascus isn’t from folding but from the impurities present in the starting iron ore that came from ancient mines near Damascus. There are a small handful of people alive who can make a convincing reproduction of ancient Wootz Damascus, and as far as I know it’s not sold or used for any products any of us own it’s more of a one off museum replica for huge dollars thing.

I don’t believe it has a high enough carbon content to be ideal for razors anyways so we’re really not missing out.

Lol absolutely yes. That's why I said true Damascus steel not Damascus looking steel rofl!

If you wanted a hand forged piece of steel you really need to find a blacksmith who is willing to make a razor for you.

The fact that the best chefs in Japan have to pen personal letters to a blacksmith who's lineage dates back to the Edo period and his ancestors served only a certain lord gives an idea how much a piece of steel from that family means.

To get said bladesmith to get the right composition for a razor and for him to make it exactly as you want is a rediculously tall order lol.

However, I'm sure there are some new bladesmiths just starting out who are decent enough to made a very decent hand forged razor.

 

[weston]

I nearly fell off laughing when I read skilled dude with a grinder lol.

Yeah, I assumed Tanifuji became notable prior to the introduction of internet apps - kinda a different meaning after that happened ;-)

 

[weston]

I’ll second(third?) some of majorrich’s suggestions. Genco... Tanifuji .

Thanks, Nam - I find some of the NOS/referbished Genco's beautiful blades. As for the Japanese blades, especially Kamasori's, they're on my radar. So simple and beautiful, and given Japanese blade culture (swords, knives), compelling. Thanks again.