Which DEs can accept a custom handle?

[Aloxite]

I'd like to make myself a nice shaving set. What I want is to use the same wood for a brush handle, DE razor handle, straight razor scales and a stand to fit all of them. Maybe turn a bowl as well although my tiny little metal lathe might not fit a very large one.

So on the DE razor side of things I need to find a good shaving razor that I can easily replace the handle with one that I turn out of wood. I am open to suggestions of new or vintage razors. I'm probably not going to get anything that is super expensive but I guess I wouldn't mind hearing about it.

Regards, Mark

 

[luvmysuper]

Any of the three piece Gillettes would be a good choice, because you could interchange the heads on the handle and make any razor you want, Tech, Old, New, New Improved etc.

 

[Aloxite]

Cool. That's good to know. Those should work pretty well.

Any more idea?

 

[TheFlyingFrenchman]

Doesn't one of the vendors around here sell razor heads for custom razors? Penworks maybe, icr at the moment.

 

[glassmtn99]

The three piece Merkurs and Edwin Jagger razors will fit on to a custom handle as well. TESC sells the heads separately, but they run about $26. You can buy a three piece Merkur razor for about the same price.

eric.

 

[skipnord]

The problem is making the transition between the wood handle and the razor head. The threads on the American razors are 10-32, and the european ones use the mm that is almost the same - 6, I think. Take a look at the Golden Nib site, under razor heads. They are currently out of stock, but you can see the metal transition piece. The extra threads are epoxied into the handle. I have tried going all the way with wood, and using a threaded insert, and also gluing in a piece of brass tubing and threading it. The metal transition seems to be a better way to go. If you get your metal lathe working, you could turn the transition out of brass, and have it gold or nickle plated. If you get to that point, I would be interested in buying some from you. Or, maybe CooncatBob would be interested in making some. Good luck!

 

[moshulu]

I made myself the kind of set you describe. Luckily, there is the Gillette Tech: a fantastic shaver that is also plentiful and inexpensive. I chopped about an inch off the handle of a fat-handled Tech, had the upper remaining part plated with silver, and glued it into a custom-turned handle. Works/looks great, with a DIY brush and stand to match. You end up with a very fat razor indeed which, once you get used to it, is something you'll want to use every day.

 

[james7604]

I made myself the kind of set you describe. Luckily, there is the Gillette Tech: a fantastic shaver that is also plentiful and inexpensive. I chopped about an inch off the handle of a fat-handled Tech, had the upper remaining part plated with silver, and glued it into a custom-turned handle. Works/looks great, with a DIY brush and stand to match. You end up with a very fat razor indeed which, once you get used to it, is something you'll want to use every day.

Any chance of a picture of your set?

 

[luvmysuper]

I made myself the kind of set you describe. Luckily, there is the Gillette Tech: a fantastic shaver that is also plentiful and inexpensive. I chopped about an inch off the handle of a fat-handled Tech, had the upper remaining part plated with silver, and glued it into a custom-turned handle. Works/looks great, with a DIY brush and stand to match. You end up with a very fat razor indeed which, once you get used to it, is something you'll want to use every day.

Did the same with a Trac II set I picked up. Used the top of a Tech, and have both a Tech and a New head that I interchange on it.

 

[Aloxite]

I've been looking at the Gillette travel razor I just received. I see all sorts of possibilities with the handle from it. I could just screw on a mandrel and chuck the mandrel in my drill presses chuck. Then use a file to turn down a portion of it. It isn't as classy as doing it on the lathe. But it would actually be easier for me since my lathe has a four jaw chuck. I wouldn't have to mess around to get it in the true center on the drill press.

For the time being I could just use the head from the travel razor as well. If I get something I like better I can swap it out.

 

[skipnord]

Now why didn't I think of cutting the transition off the handle I won't be using, since I'm making a new handle? That's why I love B and B - new ideas every day! I will be using either News or Techs, and those transitions will work fine.
Thanks Moshulu!

 

[moshulu]

Any chance of a picture of your set?

I'm not sure, because I used a material that may be forbidden here, or even unmentionable. I'll ask the mods for a ruling before trying to post.

 

[cooncatbob]

You can also use the spindles off all those cracked ball ended handles.

Now you can counter bore the handle then drill and tap it with a #10-32 tap, then attach the spindle with a piece of threaded rod and epoxy.

 

[Aloxite]

I'm not sure, because I used a material that may be forbidden here, or even unmentionable. I'll ask the mods for a ruling before trying to post.

In that case you better pm me a link.

 

[Aloxite]

Well I did a quick and dirty handle out of African Blackwood. I just used a bandsaw and a beltsander. I'm going try threading the wood directly. If Blackwood can't take the threads then I know it's hopeless to try it on any other woods. I don't have that small of a tap in my set but I know I've got one at work. I have to be there in a couple of hours so I'll give it a shot and hopefully shave with it in the morning.

 

[Hair apparent]

If your new wooden custom handle is large enough to have a 3/8" hole drilled in it, you could use a woodsert with a 10-32 internal thread. something like this http://store.gsfasteners.com/400006brwoodsert-brassbrpkg-p-28900.html

 

[Aloxite]

The handle is only 3/8" thick and 5/8" wide at the head so that's a no go. If threading the wood doesn't work then I'll probably toss this piece back in the bin and start with something thicker.

I guess I could take a threaded insert and put it on a bolt. Then chuck the bolt into the drill press and file the insert down until is it little more than the internal threads.

 

[Aloxite]

I just had another idea. It's a bit contorted so I'll list it out step by step.

Find a relatively long brass machine screw that is just big enough to drill and tap to 10-32.
(for the sake of the explanation I'm going to guess 1/4-20)

Drill and tap a 1/4-20 hole in the bed of my drill press, using the drill press to hold the tap. That way it is perfectly in line with the center of the drill bit.

Screw the 1/4-20 machine screw into that hole from beneath.

Center punch and then drill and tap the end of the machine screw to 10-32.

Carefully unscrew the machine screw.

Drill and tap the wood handle to 1/4-20.

Carefully insert the drilled end of the machine screw into the handle.

Cut off the remainder of the machine screw that is sticking out of the handle.

Sand down that end of the handle until the head of the razor is positioned correctly.


Anyway, It's just an idea. It would allow me to easily make minimum diameter threaded inserts once I have the hole drilled and tapped in the drill press bed.

 

[skipnord]

You might try this - it did work for me. Find a piece of brass tubing at your good hardware store - I don't remember the size, but take you caliper and a 10-32 bolt or tap with you. Epoxy into an appropriate size hole drilled in the wood handle - let the epoxy dry over night. Then tap the inside of the brass tube to 10-32. I cut some slots in the end of the brass tube and cut it about 1/16 longer than the hole depth, and drove it in with a hammer when I epoxied it for extra strength. I was concerned about the epoxy not holding up to the torque of tapping the threads. It worked. Good Luck!

 

[Aloxite]

I got the handle tapped to 10-32. The threads look perfect. There are none of the chipped out sections that you would expect from tapping wood. I'm amazed that it was able to accept a fine thread like that.

I can tighten the handle down hard. It isn't giving any indication of stripping out. Only time will tell if it holds up to use. I'm going to go ahead and finish fine tuning the shape and then start sanding when I get home. I'll try to get some pictures up when I can.