What's new

What do really NEED?

New to straight razor. I picked up three straights on EBay, Dubl Duck, Topflight and Thistle cut. They have been sent to Whipped Dog for honing.

I'm thinking I'd like to get into honing a bit myself. Not alot of cash to spend.

I have read Luc's sticky on honing and watched the 9 part video as well as some Abrams videos.

What do I need to hone a razor to shave ready?

I'm thinking DMT 1K and a Norton 4K/8K. Agin money is a factor so is there a NEED to go to 12k or finer?

Found some stones on line that cost several hundred dollars. Not for me.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks. Merry Christmass Happy New Year
 
It looks like you have a very good head start with your razors and getting them honed.

For the money, a coticule and a slurry stone is probably the cheapest and most desirable 1 stone solution, and perhaps a small 2x6 DMT fine or coarse plate for some serious bevel resetting or stone lapping if you need it. From the coticule, you can go to a pasted strop if you wanted more refinement, then hit your canvas and leather.

Let us know what you decide!
 
Can always pick up a chinese 12K hone. I bought one from a fellow member and have been quite happy with the results. Slow cutting, but it does get the job done nicely.
 
Hi,

You could go with a norton split set of 220/1000 4000/8000 and a balsa wood strop with Chromium Oxide. That and a good leather / Linen strop.

You should be able to but the above together for about $200 or less if you find a deal on some of the items.

- Mike
 
Can always pick up a chinese 12K hone. I bought one from a fellow member and have been quite happy with the results. Slow cutting, but it does get the job done nicely.

Nice to hear :thumbup1: You can shave off the Norton 8K but imo it's not all the comfortable. You can pick up a inexpensive finishing stone (C12K) and will greatly improve your edge from the Norton.

Or pick up a Swatty and maintain your edge forever with the one hone.
 
Hi,

You could go with a norton split set of 220/1000 4000/8000 and a balsa wood strop with Chromium Oxide. That and a good leather / Linen strop.

You should be able to but the above together for about $200 or less if you find a deal on some of the items.

- Mike

I like the above idea on a limited budget. The CrO balsa wood addition will create a sharper and smoother edge than just shaving off the 8k. The 220/1000 will provide a repair option and also be a bit gentler on the bevel than the diamond plate. You also may wish to check out the Naniwa line as they don't have to be soaked as do the Nortons.
 
I like the above idea on a limited budget. The CrO balsa wood addition will create a sharper and smoother edge than just shaving off the 8k. The 220/1000 will provide a repair option and also be a bit gentler on the bevel than the diamond plate. You also may wish to check out the Naniwa line as they don't have to be soaked as do the Nortons.

Hi,

Thanks for concurring. The Norton setup is about the same price and includes a 220 hone. As you said the 220/1000 and 4000 does need to be soaked the 8000 does not. The split set can for about $130, a Good strop for $50 and blasa strop about $10-$20.

The Naniwa cost a few dollars more about $40 1000, $90 for 3000/8000. Or about $130 for hones. Down side no 220. Upside don't need soaking. I only use my 220 for chip remove and use the 1000 for bevel setting. So you may not miss the 220 at all.

Either set will need a way to lap the hones. Wet dry sand paper on a marble floor tile works well for about $6 with sand paper.

- Mike
 
You sent your ebay purchases out for honing so that means you only need a hone to keep them going provided you do not scr*w the edges up.

In that case a coticule or even cheaper a Chinese 12K is all ya need.
 

Luc

"To Wiki or Not To Wiki, That's The Question".
Staff member
It depends if you want a 1 off and only hone a few straights from start to finish or always hone from start to finish (reset the bevel) and hone for others. If you just want to maintain your edges, sent them out and buy the minimum to keep the edge sharp.

For a full honing, I would get a 1k 4k/8k and a finisher >=12k
 
A coticule is my preferred stone and is very versatile (and can be had for under $100). That said, there are many ways to skin a cat. Norton, Naniwa, and Spyderco all make great progressions of synthetics.
 
You sent your ebay purchases out for honing so that means you only need a hone to keep them going provided you do not scr*w the edges up.

In that case a coticule or even cheaper a Chinese 12K is all ya need.

where does one get a chinese 12k?

so if I have a professionally honed razor and I just need to touch up the edge that I dulled possibly due to poor stropping, all I need is a C12k?

or should I get a coticule for that?
 

Isaac

B&B Tease-in-Residence
what do you really really really need? That depends on the razor and your wants. Here is a quick run down all IMHO

If your having bevel issues... 1k/4k/8k A flattening stone of some sort would be wonderful, but you can use sandpaper.

No bevel issues... 4k/8k Now you can go higher in grits, but its not a necessity. you can comfortably shave with an 8k edge.

Now I happen to LOVE my coticule. So a 1k for major bevel work, and a coticule would be all that you need along with reading on Bart's site. Now there is a learning curve with a coticule, but once you get there, its zen like. There is something special about being able to get a razor shave ready with basically one stone, and knowing that stone is a coupld of million years old. But a disclaimer, that this isnt as easy as a Norton, and there are more variations, but heck, people in the 1800's and earlier didnt have artificial hones.

So that is my take on what you would need. Anything higher than 8k on the artificial scale are all "wants" and not necessarily needed. I personally would buy the coticule and learn the heck out of it. They do provide a smooth shave.


My setup: Shapton on glass 1k/4k/8k/16k....Coticule x2. What do I use? 1k Shapton and Coticule
 
Top Bottom