rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
An 1890s T.R.Cadman "Bengall" 6/8 French point that I restored. Edge length is 59mm. Cost tens of USDs. In fact I will be shaving with this SR this morning. It is one of my favoured razors.
I suddenly have a picture in my mind of you sitting in a chair on the sea floor in scuba gear happily grinding away, watched by fascinated clams, lobsters, fish, and octopi.A Gold Dollar W59 style SR is a good one to have a try at making your own shortie. New OEMs are had to find but their are plenty of "clones" available. I had one that developed a crack near the heel. I ground that down to an edge length of about 50mm.
Grinding a SR down to a shorter edge length is not difficult. You just have to be aware of the heat generated in the steel and grind in such a way so as to prevent heat (>200°C) developing, particularly at and near the edge. I do this by grinding underwater.
Shortening at the heel end does not require shorter scales. Shortening at the tow end may require shorter scales..... Usually you will want to rescale, with shorter scales to match.
That's a good idea. I can see how that could work. Welding would seem like it would overheat the blade, but just adding a tail on, should work fine, especially using a bench vise for a heat sink.Speaking of the De Pew, original models seem to be difficult to come by, but an ersatz version is easily acquired with a ground down toe-damaged razor and a quick TIG weld (easy, I suppose, only assuming you have a TIG machine and know how to use it).
View attachment 1594457
Slash, those look amazing mate. I especially like that French nose one with honey coloured horn looking scales.So you want thumbnotched shorties? Okay. All Slash McDollars.
View attachment 1594429View attachment 1594430View attachment 1594432View attachment 1594434View attachment 1594436View attachment 1594438
Often, when a razor is severely damaged at toe or heel, it is salvaged by making it a shorty. One way to fix a bad heel is instead of rounding it off, hollow it out into a thumb notch, which of course makes it a shorty. You can go as short as you want. Usually you will want to rescale, with shorter scales to match.
Thanks. I made quite a few like that, before I decided I would look into making from bar stock instead of starting with a GD. I don't think I have any of them left, either. I will get around to making some more 1095 ones, one of these days, but I won't be doing any more full mods of GDs unless I decide to throw my hat in the ring of the annual competition we have here.Slash, those look amazing mate. I especially like that French nose one with honey coloured horn looking scales.
A day late and a dollar short as they say. Thank you! I’d be curious to see those 1095…Thanks. I made quite a few like that, before I decided I would look into making from bar stock instead of starting with a GD. I don't think I have any of them left, either. I will get around to making some more 1095 ones, one of these days, but I won't be doing any more full mods of GDs unless I decide to throw my hat in the ring of the annual competition we have here.
I PIF-ed a few of the modded GDs that didn't quite make the cut. You shoulda been here!
I just wrapped the blade in a bit of wet paper towel before welding, and the heat coloring only made it as far as the H in Butcher anyway, it's really a very limited opportunity for heat input if you do it skillfully, only three or so seconds of actual arc time by my estimation. The real thing to be careful of is avoiding arc strikes from whatever you're grounding it on. Using a copper plate as my worktop, fully insulating the blade with plastic spacers, and initiating the arc on the tail piece then bridging the gap with the filler metal prevented it in this instance. Maybe I'll do a thread on my exact tail-extension process at some point.That's a good idea. I can see how that could work. Welding would seem like it would overheat the blade, but just adding a tail on, should work fine, especially using a bench vise for a heat sink.