I received an inexpensive GSB straight razor kit as a well-intentioned gift. I have passed on the alum block and apothecary mug to interested friends. I am wondering about the utility of the GSB straight razor and strop. Are they worth using as an inexpensive tool to learn how to hone and strop? Or are they just toys that I should not even bother with until I am ready to financially commit to something better?
Well Intentioned Gift Worth Keeping?
- Thread starter ewk
- Start date
Make them part of a shaving display? Preferably with them mounted semi-permanently to something. That way you don't feel bad about getting rid of a gift, but won't have to worry about using them. Also, remember to dull on glass so somebody doesn't get cut if it becomes a display item.
Do you have a link or a photo? If the strop is actual leather it's probably useful. Never heard of the razor though, which may not be a good sign.
Given the likely cost of all the components in the set, including packaging, there is no room for good quality steel. Some of the other components might prove useful.
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- #5
Thanks for confirming my suspicion and saving me some time. I will keep on with the Feather DX shavette.
GBS Premium Black Edition Horn Carbon Steel Straight Edge Blade Razor, Leather Case & Strop,Brush, Stand, Ceramic Mug & Soap Ultimate Classic Vintage Beard & Wet Shaving Kit
- Thread starter
- #7
An update: The blade was too dull to be a letter opener out of the box. After a few hours of my first attempts at honing, it might open a letter that was delivered on a rainy day.
I have a set of inexpensive synthetic stones that I use to sharpen my kitchen knives. I am no expert, but my knives are sharp enough to not be dangerously dull. I know that these stones are effective for sharpening knives. After much reading and watching vids I thought I would try running the GSB over the stones.
Last week I ran it over the 1K stone for a while and did not notice any difference in the butter knife edge. I tried the 400 stone for a while. No real change in the blade. I held the stone in my left hand and employed a very light touch as I had seen in videos. After about 2 hours I called it a night.
Next morning I went back to the 400 grit stone and decided to put the stone in the holder and hone on the countertop. Soft strokes did not improve the blade. I used the left hand to help guide, and eventually applied pressure with the left hand. Ran through 400/1K/3K but no change in sharpness. I added tape to the spine to change angle and started over at 400. I saw black slurry develop, but still did not achieve any change in edge sharpness. I tried 3 pieces of tape to increase angle. I ran the blade over 400/1K/3K/8K. I can tell the blade is sharper than when I started, but still will not remove any arm hair at all.
The day was not a total loss. I did touch up my kitchen knives while I had the stones out. And I have developed a feel for how the razor should move over the stones.
I have a set of inexpensive synthetic stones that I use to sharpen my kitchen knives. I am no expert, but my knives are sharp enough to not be dangerously dull. I know that these stones are effective for sharpening knives. After much reading and watching vids I thought I would try running the GSB over the stones.
Last week I ran it over the 1K stone for a while and did not notice any difference in the butter knife edge. I tried the 400 stone for a while. No real change in the blade. I held the stone in my left hand and employed a very light touch as I had seen in videos. After about 2 hours I called it a night.
Next morning I went back to the 400 grit stone and decided to put the stone in the holder and hone on the countertop. Soft strokes did not improve the blade. I used the left hand to help guide, and eventually applied pressure with the left hand. Ran through 400/1K/3K but no change in sharpness. I added tape to the spine to change angle and started over at 400. I saw black slurry develop, but still did not achieve any change in edge sharpness. I tried 3 pieces of tape to increase angle. I ran the blade over 400/1K/3K/8K. I can tell the blade is sharper than when I started, but still will not remove any arm hair at all.
The day was not a total loss. I did touch up my kitchen knives while I had the stones out. And I have developed a feel for how the razor should move over the stones.
Glad you found a way of making lemonade without any lemons. It had never occurred to me that a Razor Shaped Object might actually be useful for developing honing muscle memory, but it makes sense. Seems reassuring that you cannot possibly mess up the razor, since that was done for you at the factory.
Would be potentially good for stropping practice too.
As for financially committing, if you put those same efforts to a super-cheap Gold Dollar from Ali express, you could well wind up with something that would shave quite well. Search the forum for more information about what models are worthwhile, and perhaps some advice about avoiding counterfeits (yes, there are counterfeits of razors whose real versions can sell for less than 10 bucks).
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- #11
Update: My conscience is troubling me for making pronouncements about things I know nothing of. I have unfairly characterized the GBS razor. It may or may not shave some day, but I really have no standing to assess its merits or its quality.
I purchased a Gold Dollar this week. Out of the box it shaved my arm hairs. I just finished taking the Gold Dollar to my inexpensive synthetic stones, and I have reduced it to the same level of letter opener
At least I am consistent. I will try "The Method" next.
I purchased a Gold Dollar this week. Out of the box it shaved my arm hairs. I just finished taking the Gold Dollar to my inexpensive synthetic stones, and I have reduced it to the same level of letter opener
At least I am consistent. I will try "The Method" next.When it comes to honing, all learning is progress. Even if it was a disaster. Maybe even especially if it was a disaster. So, you've made progress.Update: My conscience is troubling me for making pronouncements about things I know nothing of. I have unfairly characterized the GBS razor. It may or may not shave some day, but I really have no standing to assess its merits or its quality.
I purchased a Gold Dollar this week. Out of the box it shaved my arm hairs. I just finished taking the Gold Dollar to my inexpensive synthetic stones, and I have reduced it to the same level of letter opener
The most essential thing to learn is how to set a bevel. If you can do that, you have the world by the ears. Here is a video of an expert, @Doc226, setting a bevel:
And here is that same expert, in my favorite bevel-setting video, in two parts. It might wind up being yours, too, because he's setting the bevel of a factory Gold Dollar, and he is NOT gentle about it.
Part 1:
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- #13
Thank you! I take the view that SR shaving is a marathon, not a sprint. I have read that one should not learn honing and SR shaving at the same time. I am really in no hurry. I am enjoying the idea of honing over SR shaving at the moment. When I know that I can hone and maintain a proper edge, I will devote the 100 days to actually shaving with them. In the mean time I have more than enough DE razors to keep the area above my shoulders and between my ears clean and tidy.
Thanks again for pointing me to some great resources!
Thanks again for pointing me to some great resources!
BTW he doesn't say what stones he's using, and I can't identify the stone in the first video, but in the Gold Dollar videos, it seems very evident that he's using a Naniwa Chosera Pro 1000. One good thing about Naniwa's affection for strong dyes is that it makes identification easier. My choice for that task is the Shapton Glass 1000, but they are in very similar territory, stones that respond well to pressure, get a lot of work done, and don't make scratches that are hard to get out later, even with pressure.
I've pressed and squeaked on plenty of razors that needed a lot of work. But it isn't always that way. Last night, I honed an eBay George Wostenholm pipe razor that needed surprisingly little adjustment. No heavy pressure needed, and I got through all the honing steps in one evening, which is not usual for me. It all depends on where the razor started.
You'll need to find your own style. Doc226 does it with one hand. I use two, pressing a finger lightly on the place I want to concentrate the force. If that makes it seem as though I am less adept than Doc226, that's only because it's true.
I've pressed and squeaked on plenty of razors that needed a lot of work. But it isn't always that way. Last night, I honed an eBay George Wostenholm pipe razor that needed surprisingly little adjustment. No heavy pressure needed, and I got through all the honing steps in one evening, which is not usual for me. It all depends on where the razor started.
You'll need to find your own style. Doc226 does it with one hand. I use two, pressing a finger lightly on the place I want to concentrate the force. If that makes it seem as though I am less adept than Doc226, that's only because it's true.
So I'd be fairly confident that the problem here isn't technique or razors... it's the stones.
I'm only guessing based on what you've said, but if they're 400/1k and 3k/8k combis courtesy of Mr. Bezos, then a friend of mine has some, and I've used them. If not from the same vendor then I imagine made in the same factory. With practice and/or expertise you can use these stones to sharpen knives to an acceptable level, though I absolutely wouldn't put one a razor on one.
I did a full review if anyone's interested, but here are some pull quotes that might be relevant:
'The first thing that's very noticeable about these stones is that the grit ratings, such as they are, have only the most tenuous of acquaintances with objective reality. As though they had been spat out by a random number generator and printed on the side. The 400 is somewhat higher - perhaps 600, the 1k is only slightly higher than that - maybe 700-800, the 3k is around 1 - 1.5k, and the 8k is pretty similar - something like 1.5 - 2k.'
---
'Do they at least work though? Well... yes, after a fashion. The '400' stone is pants, and remarkably slow for a low grit stone. The '1000' is ok, it cuts alright leaving a very aggressive, slightly ragged edge. The '3k' is a mess; rather nasty feeling and doesn't really do anything. The '8k' seems to be an almost identical grit size to the '3k' but slightly more compact. I ended up just using the '1k', and a quick touch up on the '8k', and with a bit of pressure it didn't take long.'
---
'The biggest problem with these kinds of stones is that they're invariably going to be bought by people are who are completely new to sharpening, and they're very difficult to use well. I like to think I'm an alright sharpener, and I have quite a lot of experience with a wide range of stones, so could get a good enough edge on the knives. But for someone's first whetstone - they're going to give the impression that sharpening a knife is an impossible and futile endeavour, best left to professionals.'
I'm only guessing based on what you've said, but if they're 400/1k and 3k/8k combis courtesy of Mr. Bezos, then a friend of mine has some, and I've used them. If not from the same vendor then I imagine made in the same factory. With practice and/or expertise you can use these stones to sharpen knives to an acceptable level, though I absolutely wouldn't put one a razor on one.
I did a full review if anyone's interested, but here are some pull quotes that might be relevant:
'The first thing that's very noticeable about these stones is that the grit ratings, such as they are, have only the most tenuous of acquaintances with objective reality. As though they had been spat out by a random number generator and printed on the side. The 400 is somewhat higher - perhaps 600, the 1k is only slightly higher than that - maybe 700-800, the 3k is around 1 - 1.5k, and the 8k is pretty similar - something like 1.5 - 2k.'
---
'Do they at least work though? Well... yes, after a fashion. The '400' stone is pants, and remarkably slow for a low grit stone. The '1000' is ok, it cuts alright leaving a very aggressive, slightly ragged edge. The '3k' is a mess; rather nasty feeling and doesn't really do anything. The '8k' seems to be an almost identical grit size to the '3k' but slightly more compact. I ended up just using the '1k', and a quick touch up on the '8k', and with a bit of pressure it didn't take long.'
---
'The biggest problem with these kinds of stones is that they're invariably going to be bought by people are who are completely new to sharpening, and they're very difficult to use well. I like to think I'm an alright sharpener, and I have quite a lot of experience with a wide range of stones, so could get a good enough edge on the knives. But for someone's first whetstone - they're going to give the impression that sharpening a knife is an impossible and futile endeavour, best left to professionals.'
- Thread starter
- #16
It is said "a poor craftsman blames his tools," and I fully acknowledge that I have no skills or expertise in this area. Fairly or unfairly, I ignorantly maligned the GBS razor.
I am also no judge of stones, so I thank you very much for your insight. I know the "you get what you pay for" rule, and yes, this was a very inexpensive set of potentially throw-away stones. To be fair to the stones, my kitchen knives were so dull, even these stones got them back to an acceptable cutting level.
My experience with these stones matches your description exactly. I detect almost no variation in the levels of grit; all 4 levels feel nearly the same. Time to look into lapping film. Thanks again!
Ah yeah, it does sound like they're basically the same as my friends' then. As you say - they can be used to get a very usable edge on a kitchen knife. But there's something about them that struck me as completely inappropriate for razors (I suspect this kind of thing is inexpensive sintered Silicon Carbide).
So yep - I don't think it would be the razor, or your technique, that's to blame. You'll find other stones/films/pastes will do much better
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