The dreaded smokers house!!
To people who say don't lap barber hones...
- Thread starter kcb5150
- Start date
The dreaded smokers house!!
- Thread starter
- #62
Funnily enough the binder is particularly nice so maybe the tar preserved it. First stone in maybe 8 months I was dry heaving when I opened the box...
I missed this thread the first time around. I think the reason that everyone always says not to lap barber hones is because they don't get good results when they do it. That is most probably a direct result of not doing it in a way that works well.
The original hones were composed of medium-fine grit in a binder, which was probably sintered, pressed and then baked or vitrified. This probably got them a sort of result similar to concrete, where in this case the aggregate is the abrasive particles, and the binder is the mud. So a lot of abrasive particles pressed flat and level to the binder. Many of these were probably resurfaced after that to get a very smooth and level surface.
That's probably the step that doesn't get done correctly by the fellers that don't have good luck lapping the barber hones. In my experience experimenting with resurfacing these, they need to be brought up to a pretty fine level after flattening to get good results with a razor. Even so, they won't replace my JNats or Arks anytime soon. They are a neat piece of history though, and I still appreciate them.
Another issue with lapping these is the same as what happens when you take the top layer off of concrete - a LOT more aggregate (in this case, abrasive particles) becomes exposed. That can be a problem or not, depending on the abrasive size and how well the resurfacing is done, and to what level.
One also needs to watch out for the deteriorated binder as mentioned earlier. I have absolutely run across barber hones that self slurried - and as you can imagine, they aren't much use for anything unless you want to use them for a beater.
The original hones were composed of medium-fine grit in a binder, which was probably sintered, pressed and then baked or vitrified. This probably got them a sort of result similar to concrete, where in this case the aggregate is the abrasive particles, and the binder is the mud. So a lot of abrasive particles pressed flat and level to the binder. Many of these were probably resurfaced after that to get a very smooth and level surface.
That's probably the step that doesn't get done correctly by the fellers that don't have good luck lapping the barber hones. In my experience experimenting with resurfacing these, they need to be brought up to a pretty fine level after flattening to get good results with a razor. Even so, they won't replace my JNats or Arks anytime soon. They are a neat piece of history though, and I still appreciate them.
Another issue with lapping these is the same as what happens when you take the top layer off of concrete - a LOT more aggregate (in this case, abrasive particles) becomes exposed. That can be a problem or not, depending on the abrasive size and how well the resurfacing is done, and to what level.
One also needs to watch out for the deteriorated binder as mentioned earlier. I have absolutely run across barber hones that self slurried - and as you can imagine, they aren't much use for anything unless you want to use them for a beater.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
If you are properly set up to hone with lapping film, you can also use film to lap your barber hone. Diamond film is excellent for this, the only thing i like diamond film for. ALOX film works nice though. Get 3M 261X type. Start with 400 grit sandpaper and then use 9u and 3u to burnish the surface,and keep rinsing off the slurry. LIght pressure at the finish. I have done this and it works for 3 line Swaty hones just fine. Haven't tried other barber hones.
- Thread starter
- #65
On all of these my last stage tends to be really worn in 3000 grit sic wet dry I keep around mostly to final hand sand a blade before polish. I really think of of these need to be finished as high as you can go with what you have available and then there is still a working in with blades. The first edge off of one of these freshly lapped always seems to be the worst one it gives and then they improve before hitting a plateau.
I usually finish at 2k, then Vaseline rub for at least 15-20 minutes then buff with a cloth.
