Timeless Bronze .78 OC Question

[RJB42]

Hi,

I know the answer to this question will likely be "try it and see," but I'm curious if my line of thinking is correct as far as a next razor to try. I've been DE shaving since 2012, and the first 10 years were with a Merkur 34C and feather blades. I only shaved about twice a week during that time, and I think my skin happens to be tough enough to absorb some bad technique if I only shave twice a week because I generally didn't have any problems with irritation.

Fast forward to a year ago, and I started wanting to be clean shaven every day for whatever reason. My growth after 24 hours is a pretty noticeable stubble especially after I take a shower (I assume because the hairs absorb water and expand) both visually and by feel. I don't know exactly how thick or "tough" my beard is, but the individual hairs are quite a bit thicker looking than the hair on my head and feel a bit "wiry"... hard to really quantify though.

I thought maybe it was a good time to upgrade the 34C after 10 years and I got the Timeless .95 SB in stainless. I like the razor a lot, and at first I thought maybe it was a bit much as far as aggressiveness because I would be irritated after I shaved with it, so I also got the .68 SB plate and used that for a few months which I think really helped me dial in the technique as far as angle and pressure. I then switched back to the .95 and found that I get very good shaves with it, even every day with little to no irritation. It's actually much better as far as irritation than the .68 because I don't need to go over areas as many times - or so that's my thinking anyway.

I do however have to use what I read described here as "buffing" passes when I go ATG to get a smooth shave - and I mean all strokes ATG need to be buffing passes really no matter where they are on my face. The timeless razor is nice is that it's very "loud", and basically no matter what angle I hold the razor at (ride the bar, ride the cap, and anything in between) if I buff the razor over the same area (and leave it against my skin on the back stroke so that lather is reapplied) I can hear hairs making the blade sing until I've gone back and forth at least 3 or 4 times or so. I use pretty minimal pressure, but some is needed especially ATG since the razor is upside down for most of those passes and it's pretty heavy. I've used feather, BIC chrome platinum, and Nacet blades. I definitely need to use fewer buffing strokes with the feather blades by a bit, but definitely just can't use a single pass like I imagined I'd be able to from descriptions on here.

In any case, it does work for me and I wouldn't say my face is "irritated" after, but I definitely can feel that I've had a blade on my face for about an hour or two after I shave. Nothing painful, it's just "noticeable". After that, it's fine and my face generally feels great the rest of the day. No redness, bumps or blood. I'm looking to make it a little more comfortable and am wondering if a razor with more blade exposure would be the ticket to not having to use so much buffing (which I'm thinking is the source of discomfort). I noticed that the bronze OC .78 has quite a bit more exposure than the .95 and I'm thinking that the blade might just need more "reach" past the plane that the safety bar and cap make to get to the hairs that I need to go over so many times to get the area smooth.

Is there any merit to this thinking? I haven't used that many razors even though I've been DE shaving for quite a while so I don't really have a great feel for what different razor parameters affect as much. Any advice would be appreciated and especially from those who have used both the .95 SB and the .78 OC bronze. I apologize for the long winded lead up to the question, but I thought it might eliminate some responses that might be handed out to someone very very new to DE shaving.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Mr. Shavington]

Makes sense. The Timeless Bronze 0.78 OC and the Timeless Slim 0.50 are both a step up from the 0.95 in efficiency and blade feel. They’re excellent razors too. Very similar in feel - pick the Slim if you’d like a lower profile head (helps with manoeuvrability) or the Bronze 0.78 if you want the soft, warm feel of bronze. The Slim also comes in titanium if you would like a lighter razor.

I think many of us have gone through the journey you’re describing - moving to more aggressive razors to get a close shave with fewer strokes. Many too then moved back to milder razors when our technique had improved, but some continue to favour a razor with more blade feel.

I think that these more aggressive razors don’t actually shave closer - how could they, it’s only the blade edge that is cutting? What they do is give you more margin for error when your technique isn’t perfected. The blade sticks out more and you have a wider range of angles when the blade is cutting effectively. Once you have your technique figured out you’ll get the optimal cutting angle more consistently and you’ll probably find that mild razors cut just as close as the aggressive ones, but without stressing your skin as much. It just takes time and practice to learn to shave with the optimal angle and light pressure so that mild razors work effectively.

So a more aggressive razor may indeed work best for you now. The reason I mention the other stuff is just to suggest that you don’t assume you’ll always be an aggressive razor guy, and don’t over-invest in buying more and more razors of this type. You may find later on that you don’t need them and you don’t use them much.

 

[Whiterook]

What he said. The bronze .78 OC is their most agressive razor. Use a light touch, at least at first.

 

[RJB42]

Thanks. I'd love to hear from anyone who's ever used the bronze .78 OC as an every day shaver. I feel like the few posts I've come across regarding it always mentioned that they wouldn't use it every day.

I just feel like every description about "buffing" generally includes that it was used sparingly. I typically shave WTG and then ATG, but all the ATG passes are buffing passes and I feel like I shouldn't be doing that for some reason. I should add that if I try to add XTG passes after the WTG passes before I go ATG, I still need to do a lot of buffing and the extra passes that were added by going XTG first seem to make it too much for my skin. I have experimented a lot with angle on "easy" parts of my face like my cheeks and nothing seems to eliminate the need for the buffing. Perhaps I should just try adding a decent amount of pressure? That seems to me like it would simulate some degree a razor with more exposure.

 

[Mr. Shavington]

Thanks. I'd love to hear from anyone who's ever used the bronze .78 OC as an every day shaver. I feel like the few posts I've come across regarding it always mentioned that they wouldn't use it every day.

I just feel like every description about "buffing" generally includes that it was used sparingly. I typically shave WTG and then ATG, but all the ATG passes are buffing passes and I feel like I shouldn't be doing that for some reason. I should add that if I try to add XTG passes after the WTG passes before I go ATG, I still need to do a lot of buffing and the extra passes that were added by going XTG first seem to make it too much for my skin. I have experimented a lot with angle on "easy" parts of my face like my cheeks and nothing seems to eliminate the need for the buffing. Perhaps I should just try adding a decent amount of pressure? That seems to me like it would simulate some degree a razor with more exposure.

Use less pressure, not more. That’s the key. Pressure is counter-productive. Pressing the razor against your skin causes the skin surface to be less flat, and your razor cuts less effectively - and you scrape your skin into the bargain. When you use as little pressure as possible your skin remains flatter and the cutting angle is easier to maintain, so the razor cuts the hair better.

Easy to say this, hard to do it. You’re always using more pressure than you think you are.

 

[Phoenixkh]

On a whim, I ordered a Ti 0.68 OC head the other day.... I have lots of the Ti Crown handles so I only needed the razor head. It shows up tomorrow.
Based on what I've read here, I don't think I need the 0.95 in any base plate style....

I have the Bronze 0.38 and though it's a completely different design than the Bronze 0.78, it is mild but efficient enough for me. The reviews I've seen of the Bronze 0.78 mirror what @Whiterook just posted... David / @never-stop-learning said something similar... for him, and he loves what are aggressive razors to me, the Bronze 0.78 is not a daily driver because it's pretty high on the efficiency scale.

 

[never-stop-learning]

have the Bronze 0.38 and though it's a completely different design than the Bronze 0.78, it is mild but efficient enough for me. The reviews I've seen of the Bronze 0.78 mirror what @Whiterook just posted... David / @never-stop-learning said something similar... for him, and he loves what are aggressive razors to me, the Bronze 0.78 is not a daily driver because it's pretty high on the efficiency scale.

Exactly.....the Bronze 0.78 OC is a great razor, but I do not use it as a daily driver. If I only shaved weekly, the 0.78 OC will mow through pretty much anything.

My favorite Timeless is the Ti Slim SB. The Ti Slim SB scores "high" on all of my personal requirements: Efficient, Smooth, Nimble & Maneuverable, and Predictable - a Highly Effective razor.

 

[DEnoob1963]

I would use the bronze 78 only as an every second/third day shaver. I borrowed one and got a fantastic shave but I had to be laser focused on the shave. Zero added pressure, just the razor’s mass and gravity with me steering it around my face and neck.

Some open combs feel efficient but non threatening. That is NOT this razor.

 

[Patrice]

Everything that is said in this thread is very nicely said, it's a pleasure to read you guys!

Like you @RJB42 , I need several pass in order to get a very close shave. I tried several razors who were supposed to give me the best shave in three one-time passes but it does not work for me. On each pass I go 3 to 4 times on the same spot before reloading leather and going for another pass in another direction (classical WTG, XTG, ATG on cheeks; WTG, ATG, ATG on throat; WTG, XTG, XTG around the mouth).

+ Each of my passes are no more than 2 or 3 cm, that's what works best for me for the time being.

On BB SS, Superslant L3, Wunderbar, Progress @5 and other BBS machines.

The exposure on the .78 is significant (.15mm) compared to the .95 (.05mm). If you use a Kai, you have the same amount of exposure on your .95 than you will have on the .78 (Kai add a .1mm on each side). + they are good blades with no coating.

Maybe worth trying before buying the .78 OC?

They will also magnify your 34C HD which you certainly don't use anymore because it's too mild.

 

[RJB42]

Thanks for the replies everyone! Very helpful. I will likely skip the bronze .78 in light of everything said about it here. It's also very interesting to know that about the Kai blades as well. I think I have a pack that came in a sampler a long time ago that I never tried. I'll have to give it a go.

 

[Patrice]

I'll be happy to have your feedback, cheers

 

[DesertIguana]

What he said. The bronze .78 OC is their most agressive razor. Use a light touch, at least at first.

Most be weight that causes so much aggression.

 

[Patrice]

The exposure here is outstanding, I don't think any other razor maker display a 0.006'' exposure + open Comb + massive head (45g for the head alone).

 

[Whiterook]

Most be weight that causes so much aggression.

The design of the head comes onto play as well. It's a .78 gap, but more agressive than the .95 gap stainless.

 

[DesertIguana]

The design of the head comes onto play as well. It's a .78 gap, but more agressive than the .95 gap stainless.

Well you most know because your one of the member who has many Razors.

 

[Rhody]

What he said. The bronze .78 OC is their most agressive razor. Use a light touch, at least at first.

This!

I had trouble even looking at this monster and not getting cut.
The sb is much more manageable for me. Don’t forget they have a trial period that might be the answer for you.

 

[Whiterook]

I think she has a nice toothy smile, myself!

 

[LRod]

If it's worth anything to help the OP, I bought the .78 OC head and quickly sold it. I prefer the .38 SB which is very efficient on it's own. The OC gave a great shave but as already mentioned, it required too much concentration.
I concentrate enough at work. I don't need it as part of my shave routine, LOL!!

 

[Cannon Cocker]

I have a couple of suggestions you might want to consider. I have the Timeless SS .95 OC, a SB (had), a Ti .95 OC and a .78 Bronze. As far as the .78 Bronze razor, it is a big step up as far as efficiency/aggression. It and my Sterling HA are the two most efficient/aggressive razors I own. To step up from your current Timeless .95 SB but not all the way to the .78 Bronze, I would suggest the Muhle R41. You can buy just the R41 head for approximately $25 and use you Timeless handle for a complete razor, and/or you can buy the Timeless Bronze .78 plate for $60 from the Timeless Scrarch & Dent offerings. If you decide later that you want a complete Bronze razor, you can add the cap and handle from the Scratch & Dent.

Either way you can try two very good razors for not a lot of money. Good luck.

 

[RJB42]

Thanks. Any idea what the blade gap/exposure is on the R41 - and is the R41 something you would use daily? The other one I've been considering is the Greencult 2.0 with plates 3 and 4 (beyond the #2 it comes with).