Time to expand a Hobby?

[frozenoak]

I'm an amateur black smith. I tinker with hammer, axe, and knife making (and garden tools, as the wife requires). I do both stock removal and forging. I have an excess of 1095, O1, D2, S7, H13, some thin sheets of spring steel (perfect for fillet knifes) and a sheet of Grade 5 Titanium (1/8" thick).

I'm thinking about creating a straight razor (probably from 1095) but wanted to poll the group to get opinions. For my first attempt, I thought I'd use stock removal to create a 7/8 (or 8/8) near wedge with a Spanish Notch and Eucalyptus Scales (as I also have plenty of that). The problem is my 1095 is only 3/8" thick and I was thinking 1/4" would be better. I have plenty of O1 (and the tool steels) at 1/4".

So, what do you think?

 

[rbscebu]

Can you reduce the blade's spine thickness in the 1095 to about 6mm while forging?

 

[frozenoak]

Can you reduce the blade's spine thickness in the 1095 to about 6mm while forging?

Sorry, I meant 3/16. But yes, I could potentially forge the 1095 as it's wide enough but upsetting thin sheets is tricky. Defiantly an option.

And I forgot to sign my posts.
Regards,
Dale

 

[frozenoak]

Keeping in mind that I can't keep anywhere near the tolerance, this is my rough draft. Now the biggest decision is whether to make it from 3/16" 1095 or 1/4" O1. It's a hard choice.

Regards,
Dale

 

[Dilbone]

A 3/16" spine on an 8/8 razor will give a bevel angle of around 11 degrees.
If you go the 1095 route I'd be more conservative with your razor size...maybe 5/8-6/8 max

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[rbscebu]

The blade as you have designed it, would have an included bevel angle of 14.75deg if made of 3/16" thick 1095 without any upsetting. As 1095 properly tempered can hold a good edge, that's not an unacceptable bevel angle although it is tending towards the lower limit.

Remember, as this is designed, the depth for calculating the bevel angle is measured from the lower edge of the spine, not the top edge of the spine.

 

[frozenoak]

I'm glad I asked. I hadn't considered edge angle. O1 it is, for this first blade. I'm fairly certain there will be more, and I'll be making a range of blades. I'm currently out of Damascus steels but that's defiantly in the future as well.

 

[eKretz]

Both of those angles are below optimal. I'd go no lower than 18° included as-forged - also remember you need to leave grinding stock... And as it definitely sounds like your first attempt, I'd probably suggest to shoot for more like 25+° as-forged. You can always grind it thinner later. Unless you are very experienced with heat treatment, don't try to run at the ragged edge of what's possible in terms of acute included angles.

 

[bluesman 7]

 

[FarmerTan]

Following!!!

 

[bluesman 7]

Keep in mind that the active width is where the spine touches the stone (the grind line) not the measurement to the back of the spine, when figuring your angles.

 

[Slash McCoy]

A good rule of thumb for hollowground razors is to figure the max blade width will be about 4x the stock thickness, for a stock removal razor. So your 3/16" stock could made a decent 6/8 razor. This, using a fairly normal spine profile. And BTW I do suggest you stay on the path well traveled, for your first couple of razors. Get kewl and creative later. Usually the way everyone has done it successfully for the last 100 years will work for you a lot better than what you are envisioning in your mind.

 

[frozenoak]

I do suggest you stay on the path well traveled, for your first couple of razors. Get kewl and creative later.

That's the plan, that and staying within the limits of my equipment and skill.

 

[frozenoak]

I opted to use the O1 Steel at 1/4" thick to make a 7/8 blade.

And I made some progress before I had to take care of some chores around the house.

First I glued a pattern to the bar.

Then removed the "Blank" from the raw stock.

And roughed out the shape on the belt sander.

Refinement of the shape will require files as this is the limit of my power tools. It'll be pretty much freehand from here on out (except the bevels, which will be done on the belt sander) and I will most likely ignore the dimensions on the drawing in favor of edge geometry and flights of fancy.

I am open to suggestions as I work my way through this project. I'll try to keep this thread up to date. It's the first time I've posted my work anywhere.

 

[Doc226]

Good start

How far is your pivot hole to the heel? It looks a tad shirt on the blank.

 

[FarmerTan]

This is exciting! Please keep us in the loop!

 

[Slash McCoy]

Good start

How far is your pivot hole to the heel? It looks a tad shirt on the blank.

Good eye. I think you got something there. But a nice thumb notch would fix it.

 

[frozenoak]

It's about 1 1/8" from the heel.

 

[Doc226]

It's about 1 1/8" from the heel.

Still out of my house, been shaving with a DE (I know, I know)

But I recall doing some measurements in the past and the most consistent thing on straight was the pivot to heel distance, I recall 40mm.

If someone with a caliper and straights can double check me that would be great

 

[FarmerTan]

BUMP!