Thoughts on the black pinstripe double-breasted suit?

[tsellati]

With the new year comes a new job I am very excited about. And, I must confess, I am equally excited (if not more so) because this career advance will offer me an opportunity to have a bespoke suit designed and made for me by none-other than Joseph Abboud!

So, in thinking about the styles, colors, and patterns of suits I already have I am leaning towards a traditional black pinstripe (which I don't currently have) and going with a double-breasted style. Regarding the pinstripe, I am definitely going to go with a more understated look with less width between the lines (no Chicago-gangster look for me).

Anyway, what are your thoughts? Is the double-breasted suit to dated, old-school, stodgy, etc.? Too limited in terms of situations/occasions during which you would wear a double-breasted suit?

Also, I would love to hear what might be the best choice (I know it YMMV) and maker (country of origin) of material.

Tim

 

[dudesweet157]

I don't know how old you are or what field you work in, but a double breasted suit would be really over the top in almost any work scenario that I could imagine myself in (public accounting). I, personally, would feel way overdressed compared to any of my peers and clients. If you feel like you can make it work, definitely go for it, though. It's a look I like a lot, but don't personally think I could pull off.

 

[WalterK]

I'll let others talk about current styles because I'm really not up to date. Styles change area to area, office to office and age group to age group.

The main thing I'd like to say is that if you are like most people, at this time of year you are probably at your thinnest. And again if you are like most people by the time January and February rolls around, you'll likely weigh a bit more. Please make sure the gentleman taking the measurements gives you a bit of breathing room for the winter months.

 

[Doc4]

My thoughts on a DB suit ... it can be great!

I would caution you against one that "buttons low" ... look how this one buttons at the bottom button ...

IMHO not a good look (and ... as someone who made the mistake of owning one like this decades ago, the tie falls out the front way too easily.)

Contrast that to this one:

Much better.


One other thing ... my personal preference would be against an actual black suit, even pinstriped. Now, you may have work as an undertaker or otherwise work in a funeral home (in which case yes to black but no to pinstripes) but otherwise, unless you intend to wear this suit mainly in the evening, go for a different colour than black. Especially with the greater amount of cloth-coverage on the upper body and less shirt showing, black can be just too dark and stark for a really good look. Navy or darker grey would work much better, with our without pinstripes.

 

[Doc4]

Let me throw in a different suggestion too ... the "stroller":

The main characteristics are a black suit jacket (single or double breasted) and trousers of some sort of grey, often patterned but not essentially so. (This is essentially a slightly less formal version of the "morning suit" ... more "daily grind at the office" than "daytime wedding". Often, it's seen with a vest/waistcoat as well (essential part of the morning suit, but not essential for the stroller.)

You'd pretty much have to kibosh the pinstripes on the jacket, but this would be a great and traditional way to wear a black DB jacket.

 

[Andy77]

I don't know how old you are or what field you work in, but a double breasted suit would be really over the top in almost any work scenario that I could imagine myself in (public accounting). I, personally, would feel way overdressed compared to any of my peers and clients. If you feel like you can make it work, definitely go for it, though. It's a look I like a lot, but don't personally think I could pull off.

Maybe if you shared what kind of environment you work in, and what your goals are we’d better be able to advise you.

Without context howwever, I will say that a double breasted suit would definitely commit you to “a look.” At best it could be a very suave signature style, something that distinguishes you and makes you stand out. It could also look dated make you stand out in a not so good way. Only you can answer if your environment is conducive to that kind of thing- and whether you can carry it off.

 

[tankerjohn]

Congratulations on such a great opportunity! If this is your first or only suit, I would advise against it. But if you've got the staple navy and charcoal suits covered, than go nuts. Wear it confidently.

 

[tchip13]

I don't know how old you are or what field you work in, but a double breasted suit would be really over the top in almost any work scenario that I could imagine myself in (public accounting). I, personally, would feel way overdressed compared to any of my peers and clients. If you feel like you can make it work, definitely go for it, though. It's a look I like a lot, but don't personally think I could pull off.

+1. If this is your first suit, you need something that will work for you in more than one scenario. Something that doesn’t limit you.

 

[camjr]

For a first suit, look for something much more versatile. I would go for something in either charcoal or navy, single breasted, muted pattern (if any) with 2-3 pairs of matching trousers.

 

[patten1969]

Congratulations! Echoing others above, I think a DB suit would be over the top in most work scenarios. I would also see how the boss dresses, and don't outdress him or her. I'd go with charcoal or navy, or both if you can, and pinstripes are totally acceptable. Unless you plan on attending a lot of funerals, stay away from black.

 

[Doc4]

So, in thinking about the styles, colors, and patterns of suits I already have

If this is your first or only suit, I would advise against it.

If this is your first suit,

For a first suit, look for something much more versatile.

Don't worry, guys, the OP already has some suits.

 

[Kactus]

I like the look of a good DB suit but think the black pinstripe would look gangster. IMO, a dark charcoal grey with muted stripes would be much better and more versatile.

 

[tsellati]

I don't know how old you are or what field you work in, but a double breasted suit would be really over the top in almost any work scenario that I could imagine myself in (public accounting). I, personally, would feel way overdressed compared to any of my peers and clients. If you feel like you can make it work, definitely go for it, though. It's a look I like a lot, but don't personally think I could pull off.

54 years old and just accepted a position as a Chief Scientific Officer for a non-profit research funding agency. Lot's of time spent at meetings, fundraising events, and meeting with potential individual and corporate donors.

So, I would not wear the suit to the office for a regular day of work sitting at my computer, but I do think I will have other opportunities to get more dressed up.

Tim

 

[dudesweet157]

54 years old and just accepted a position as a Chief Scientific Officer for a non-profit research funding agency. Lot's of time spent at meetings, fundraising events, and meeting with potential individual and corporate donors.

So, I would not wear the suit to the office for a regular day of work sitting at my computer, but I do think I will have other opportunities to get more dressed up.

Tim

Tim,

That sounds like the perfect scenario to wear that suit!


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[tchip13]

Tim,

That sounds like the perfect scenario to wear that suit!


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Agreed!

 

[tsellati]

Yes, I definitely have the standard suits (typically in two or three shades) in colors such as navy, grey, light tan through dark brown, and a subtle patterned charcoal/black three piece suit. I have colors that work across the seasons. I suspect that in this new position I will have more opportunities to wear these suits.

Currently, as a department chair in an academic research institution wearing a suit would be over-dressing. My standard Monday through Friday attire is a dress shirt and tie and a sport jacket.

Being something of a fashionista (my wife's incrimination) i am excited to "up my game" for the new position. We just had a major fundraising event, a NYC Gala at Cipriani's, that brought out lots of fashion (including Joseph Abboud) celebrity, and music talent.

If you have a copy, check out the latest cover of Esquire. The double-breasted suit being worn by Cranston is exactly what I had in mind.

Tim

 

[Rhody]

YMMV and if you like it get it but unless your job involves time travel back to the 80s I'd suggest something else. If you have the opportunity to work with j abboud why not ask him what he thinks. I would also caution against black but if that's what you like go for it

 

[musicman1951]

I think it would be great.

 

[The Knize]

Fundraising event, sure. Such events are often black tie in my experience, so if not, super dressy works for me.

I like the Cranston suit, but it is clearly something of a throwback, with a wider tie. I agree that button placement should be relatively high.

I think of DB as very British, so there is that connotation. If you could say you picked it up in London, that would be a plus! And great if one is going to be standing up. No so good sitting down. Not very practical. But special occasion, my gut feeling is that it is traditional enough that no one is going to be able to criticize. It is going to be a "showy" piece. Also, there is the issue of wearing the same thing to every big occasion. Folks are going to remember this suit.

 

[Doc4]

Also, there is the issue of wearing the same thing to every big occasion. Folks are going to remember this suit.

Yes and no, depending ...

In the past I've cautioned against having one's only suit being "dramatic" or flashy (whatever term you want to use) as it will be "memorable" ... and potentially in a bad way, were one becomes "that guy who wears the bright suit" or whatever. But of course once one has a few demure staple suits in one's wardrobe, adding a bit of flair is a good thing.

A chap may WANT to be notorious for flashy dress ... Conor McGregor comes to mind ... but usually those guys want to have a lot of different flashy things in their wardrobe. Wearing one flashy thing over and over makes you ... um ... makes you "that guy who wears that thing" really really fast. This may work for Tom "scarf" Baker on Doctor Who ...

... but that may be too over-the-top costume for most guys in regular life.

Mind you ... a dark (again, see advice above about "not black") suit worn to dress-up functions is not going to really draw that sort of "attention" unless there is something particularly attention-grabbing about it ... and from what the OP has said, I don't think he's headed down that road.

... mind you, there is occasionally something to be said for becoming known as "that guy who always wears ..." whatever it is you wear. It becomes a bit of a signature for your style.