I checked around a few Slot Car sites and found this link that appears to be current. Sonic Fiddlestick . The Type D Durometer also looks like a good option for a reasonable price.
![20210508_100244[1].jpg](https://xfdata.badgerandblade.com/attachments/996/996076-3798a22caf43904e0834104bfb1c8e5a.jpg "20210508_100244[1].jpg")
No dumb questions here Nick, unless you are a machinist, you have probably never seen any of these inspection tools.Holy crap that's a nice setup! That's the most BOSC thing I've ever seen.
Forgive the dumb/ignorant question, but what raises and lowers the Fiddlestick? Do you loosen the knob holding the fiddlestick and manually lower it until you get a specific amount of deflection on the dial indicator, and then tighten the knob to take the fiddlestick reading, or does that stand able allow the fiddlestick to be mechanically lowered with some kind of screw mechanism?
Incidentally, what did the R41 reading fiddlesticks with setup? How much deflection do you take the fiddlestick reading at?
Too rigid? Thanks Mike, that's something that's never crossed my mind before.*
You may be right. I don't doubt for a second that the New SC is extremely rigid. The question is, "is it possible to do better?". I believe that it's possible to improve the rigidity of a New SC design just by changing the metal being used.
First consider though that we're measuring only measuring the deflection downwards away from the cap. This force takes into account clamp distance (baseplate clamp point to blade edge distance) and bend radius. It does not take into account free-end-length, which is the distance between where the cap clamps the blade to the edge of the blade.
If we were to push up from between the comb tines, pushing the blade up and towards the cap, I think we'd find that it moves up pretty easily, because there is a very long free-end-distance. This is pretty important, because this is the actual direction of force when we're shaving. This is not to say it's not a rigid razor, just that it's still possible to make it more rigid.
Stainless steel is much stronger and less ductile than brass for the same given thickness. This is probably the wrong table to use and not necessarily the right parameters, but take a look at the difference between brass and 304 SS.
Let's say stainless steel is twice as strong as brass at the same thickness. It seems reasonable that you could make the parts nearly half as thick as a brass and retain the same strength. (I can appreciate that it's probably an exponential rather than linear relationship between thickness and strength, but you get the point). Why would that matter? Because it means we can reduce the free-end-length.
Many stainless steel razors don't take advantage of this; they just make a stainless version of a brass design. Razors like the RR Mamba do take this into account and the topcaps are crazy thin. It's also rigid AF as a result.
Just a thought.
I've been wondering why razor makers that offer interchangeable bases only make the bases with varying gaps. It would be just as easy I'd think to keep gap a constant and vary blade exposure slightly from negative to positive. Five bases all with the same gap but, for example, bases #1 and #2 having, respectively, .004" and .002" negative exposure. Base #3 neutral exposure, while bases #4 have .002" positive exposure and #5 .004" positive exposure, with maybe an option of .006" for those who like moar! lol
I'll take mine with an .010" 'G' (gap) and .004" '+X' (exposure) base, please. Then maybe step up to a .006" '+X' base.
That could be done just by varying the dimensions of the SB/OC. Basic geometry would stay the same and variable blade gaps could still be implemented. Its more work, R&D and machine time, but it would also be the only such design on the market.
I like that idea and its now mine lol, but, any razor designers/makers feel free to contact me in regard to royalties lol.
R41, Common Bar handle - Derby Extra.
Stirling Island Man.
Maggard synthetic.
49 hours since last shave.
Starting with the typical 3 pass shave, first pass N-S WTG/XTG. Second pass S-N XTG/ATG. Third pass and all cleanups done directly ATG.
Like I said in my first shave with my Grande and a Derby Extra, as soon as the razor moved I knew.
It tugged, considerably. No effortless full length strokes on this first pass. Two strokes over my cheek to my jawline and 4 strokes from my jawline to the base of my neck. Interestingly, as soon as the blade encountered my swirls, it skipped right over them, even leaving lather in the stubble. An adjustment in technique solved that however. I went a little shallower and increased the pressure considerably. That ended the skipping and minimized the tugging.
Rigidity doesnt make a shave more effective? I very much disagree.
Second pass S-N and still some very light tugging but not an issue and honestly, smooth sailing. Comfortable and easy. I buffed around my chin the same as always, a little over my swirls and even changed direction, painting lather with the comb and shaved over both swirls the opposite direction keeping to a shallow angle. No issues.
Third pass directly ATG, angle leaning more to neutral and steep than shallow now. Again no issues, nice smooth easy shave, very light buffing over my jawline both sides and my swirls again.
Wipe and check and not quite there yet, so I did one more clean up pass and finished with a very nice and comfortable BBS shave. No irritation or redness at all and my skin is cool and comfortable.
Now I'll say, Derby Extra is not a good match in this razor and using it has cemented what I've said numerous times about the many people that have tried them and dislike them. Use them in a rigid design! It makes a difference.
Using the same blade in my Grande its a 2 1/2 pass BBS. No tugging, no skipping. The difference in blade exposure between the two is minimal.
Not only does it make a difference with Derby Extra, but it does every other blade I've tried as well.
Rigidity. Makes. A. Difference.
Now I will also say, a sharper blade may very well eliminate the tugging and skipping I experienced, but at the same time, wouldnt a more rigid design also elevate that blade too? Yep, it would.
Tatara is one of the few (only?) who specs exposure on their plate and cap combinations.
