In 15 years of sharpening knives, I can honestly say I have only seen a straight razor of any variety sharpened. The closest I ever got was the opposite side of a glass case from two antique ones at the time I had no patience neither skill to restore. How does the sharpening of a razor doffer from a chisel, scissors or a knife?
Straight Razor Sharpening Questions
- Thread starter Waldensian
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No experience with sharpening scissors or chisel, but do have some with knives.
The main difference is he angle is built in. You lay the razor flat on the stone and the sharpen. In this manner, the angle is determined by the width of the blade and the width/height of the spine. There is no guessing on the angle or trying to keep it constant.
Razors are also finished on a higher grit. I've read at least 8k to be shave ready although a majority of users (including myself) prefer an edge closer to 12k.
The main difference is he angle is built in. You lay the razor flat on the stone and the sharpen. In this manner, the angle is determined by the width of the blade and the width/height of the spine. There is no guessing on the angle or trying to keep it constant.
Razors are also finished on a higher grit. I've read at least 8k to be shave ready although a majority of users (including myself) prefer an edge closer to 12k.
For me, sharpening a chisel or plane iron requires slightly less accuracy, especially after grinding the bevel. You are also only sharpening one bevel so setting it and sharpening it is much easier in my opinion. In my experience also, you don’t need a huge progression of stones to sharpen tools. I go from a hard ark to a black ark, then crox for a final polish and that’s it. It also takes me way less strokes. You also don’t want such a keen edge on a tool, to fragile for working wood.
With my razors, I go from a 1K bevel setter (when needed) to a 4K, 8k, then a coti or Thuri finish to smooth up the edge.
With my razors, I go from a 1K bevel setter (when needed) to a 4K, 8k, then a coti or Thuri finish to smooth up the edge.
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- #5
I have a great appreciation for the Novaculite stones as a Belgian Blue lover. I suppose the angle is set, which is advantageous. It hasn't yet transpired to have the pleasure at sharpening a plane iron; chisels are rather easy. What is the proper way to recondition a razor heavily damaged, as it does not appear to be ground like a knife? The razors encountered around here are typically old cut throat types with comical v-notch like chips in the steel.
I tend to strop on paper with the option of a half-micron paste from China. It made my knife edges a true mirror. Ia it true a 5\8 razor will have a different angle to a 6\8? Does a wedge grind sharpen differently than the various types of hollow grind?
I tend to strop on paper with the option of a half-micron paste from China. It made my knife edges a true mirror. Ia it true a 5\8 razor will have a different angle to a 6\8? Does a wedge grind sharpen differently than the various types of hollow grind?
Funny enough, sharpening plane irons is like sharpening a very wide chisel, well except for the cambered irons.
I am by far no expert at restoring a straight, however, with my reading and slight experience, a razor with a huge chipped notch will have to be completely reground and shaped, or just tossed aside. Blades with just rough edges with slight chips can be fixed a few ways. The correct method varies by person. You can "bread knife" the edge, which is just rubbing the very edge on the stone or paper until the chip is gone. Another method is to just hone the edge until the chip is gone. This will assure the spine wears the same amount as the edge, retaining the bevel angel. The final method, which I use, is to hold the spine and gently swipe back and forth until the chips are gone. Once the chips are gone you can reset the bevel and hone like normal.
So, as far as I know, a 5/8 and 6/8 will have the same general angel. The relation of the thickness of spine and width of blade gives you your angel. As long as you have the spine and bevel on the stone at the same time, the angel should be correct, or very close to being correct. Excessive hone wear can change this rule, however some electrical tape on the spine can help correct it.
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- #7
I think honing or as you stated "sharpening" is a more delicate process with straights than a knife. I have sharpened knives over the years < not professionally but for my own needs. Even then, I did not sharpen knives to any great standard or way. Honing a razor correctly and properly whether a touch up or from a bevel set through a full progression takes time and finesse IMO. You cannot gorilla fist any part of it. Correctly honing comes in two ways.....learning from someone that actually knows how to and then practice practice practice over years. In fact, I jut got in a razor I purchased that was not shave ready as indicated by the seller <they rarely are unless it is someone you know that actually knows some idea of "shave ready" which is a totally subjective matter altogether you will learn.
That said, I took the razor from a 220 through a 12K. I did not like the way it felt immediately on my arm hairs so I set the bevel again and progressed through the stones to my liking. The resultant product was a decent shave with it tonight. I just need to fine tune it just a tad more on the Thury stone and Naniwa 12K and I believe it will be tip top.
No offense if you are a knife person and sharpen knives well, but I have found a knife person who has never honed a straight thinks they can when in effect, a gorilla I would trust more. I have heard people letting a knife person attempt to put a edge on their blade and may as well be shaving with a flat edge piece of metal. What I am getting at is they are two different things altogether. Not saying a knife guy who has learned to hone a straight is not worthy.....but beware of using knife skills alone to try and hone a delicate blade and believe me, a straight is very fragile in its inherent grind and design.
That said, I took the razor from a 220 through a 12K. I did not like the way it felt immediately on my arm hairs so I set the bevel again and progressed through the stones to my liking. The resultant product was a decent shave with it tonight. I just need to fine tune it just a tad more on the Thury stone and Naniwa 12K and I believe it will be tip top.
No offense if you are a knife person and sharpen knives well, but I have found a knife person who has never honed a straight thinks they can when in effect, a gorilla I would trust more. I have heard people letting a knife person attempt to put a edge on their blade and may as well be shaving with a flat edge piece of metal. What I am getting at is they are two different things altogether. Not saying a knife guy who has learned to hone a straight is not worthy.....but beware of using knife skills alone to try and hone a delicate blade and believe me, a straight is very fragile in its inherent grind and design.
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