Straight razor restoration video

[roughrider]

I saw this at straightrazorplace.com

http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums2/showthread.php?t=4307

You can download the video directly. Right click and save as.

http://homepage.mac.com/briandonofr...oration 2.mov

 

[reginald-van-gleason]

Nice Vid,

do you know what material he's using to buff the blade? It looks like some sort of cloth and a liquid.

I have a couple of straights that I inherited which I hope to restore, hone, and then use, eventually (btw, I have no straight razor experience). I figure restoring these bad boys is a good first step towards shaving with them.

RVG

 

[roughrider]

Nice Vid,

do you know what material he's using to buff the blade? It looks like some sort of cloth and a liquid.

RVG

I don't know what meterials he's using but you can ask him directly at his post.

http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums2/showthread.php?t=4307

 

[rtaylor61]

Looks like he is using Maas. The cloth looks like a barber's towel. Maas is available at Super Wal Marts on the cleaning aisle. It comes in a gray box, and when I bought mine, I almost overlooked it because the display was SO small.

Randy

 

[gage0921]

I have been wanting to do this in my spare time while at sea....

 

[Joe Lerch]

do you know what material he's using to buff the blade? It looks like some sort of cloth and a liquid.

The cloth is a sock which he cuts up. He reinforces it by putting cardboard inside. He's applying a metal cleaning paste to the blade called 'Maas." You may be able to find it locally, or you can find it online.

Brian does all the work by hand, which I like, but it takes a long time, and you will run into razors on Ebay where it won't be enough. Most people use Dreml machines to restore razor's.

If you want a comprehensive guide, the best one I know is a book in CD form written by Bill Ellis. Bill is an award winning knife maker and sells custom razor handles which he makes out of wood. He is also making custom razors, but I don't know if any of them are available. Bill also restores and sells antique razors. If any of this sounds interesting, visit his website: http://www.billysblades.com/.

 

[rtaylor61]

Joe,

At the beginning of the video, before he removes his sock, isn't that a barber's towel? Looks like it has a green stripe, but hard to tell.

Randy

 

[reginald-van-gleason]

Maas is available at Super Wal Marts on the cleaning aisle.
Randy

Thanks Randy... I will give this Mass stuff a try... although my straights are fairly clean but do have a couple of "stains" or "discolorations" (not sure if those are the right words) that I am trying to remove.

RVG

 

[reginald-van-gleason]

If you want a comprehensive guide, the best one I know is a book in CD form written by Bill Ellis. Bill is an award winning knife maker and sells custom razor handles which he makes out of wood. He is also making custom razors, but I don't know if any of them are available. Bill also restores and sells antique razors. If any of this sounds interesting, visit his website: http://www.billysblades.com/.

Thanks Joe, I'll definitely check it out... my razors don't need a "serious" aesthetic restoration (couple of dark spots here and there) but I figured I should get them as spiffy as possible before moving on to the all too important, yet difficult, honing stage.

RVG

 

[Joe Lerch]

Joe,

At the beginning of the video, before he removes his sock, isn't that a barber's towel? Looks like it has a green stripe, but hard to tell.

Randy

You're right. I wasn't referring to that. I'm talking about the thing he holds in his hand and rubs against the razor. It looks a little strange, and I asked him about it after his first video. It's part of a sock. You can see it near the end when he cuts little pieces to use inside the handle.

 

[Joe Lerch]

Thanks Joe, I'll definitely check it out... my razors don't need a "serious" aesthetic restoration (couple of dark spots here and there) but I figured I should get them as spiffy as possible before moving on to the all too important, yet difficult, honing stage.

RVG

Some of those spots are the most difficult thing to remove. I'm talking about the ones that are left after you've removed rust and everything else.

The stuff is called "Maas." THere are two "a"s and one "s."

 

[reginald-van-gleason]

Some of those spots are the most difficult thing to remove. I'm talking about the ones that are left after you've removed rust and everything else.

And those are exactly the ones that my straights have. Damn...

Do you think Maas would be successful in removing these dark spots, or is there another product that you might recommend?

RVG

 

[Laz in Tampa]

And those are exactly the ones that my straights have. Damn...

Do you think Maas would be successful in removing these dark spots, or is there another product that you might recommend?

RVG

Elbow grease. Lots of it. Sometimes it is hard to find, but the resluts are usually worth it.

 

[reginald-van-gleason]

Elbow grease. Lots of it. Sometimes it is hard to find, but the resluts are usually worth it.

Hey, if its gonna get me resluts...

Of course, I assumed elbow grease was implied... just figured the formula would be elbow grease + store bought polish/lotion/etc...

Thanks.

RVG

 

[Joe Lerch]

Do you think Maas would be successful in removing these dark spots, or is there another product that you might recommend?
RVG

Maas is the best one I know. it's just a lot of work. If you work with a Dreml you can do it with buffing compound and a lot less work. You just need to be careful not to heat up the blade.

 

[roughrider]

Looks like he is using Maas. The cloth looks like a barber's towel. Maas is available at Super Wal Marts on the cleaning aisle. It comes in a gray box, and when I bought mine, I almost overlooked it because the display was SO small.

Randy

How much is a tube of Maas?

 

[rtaylor61]

Maas is under $5.00 at a Super Wal Mart. Seems like it was actually less than $4.00. It's not a huge investment. Like a Dremel...

Randy

 

[Laz in Tampa]

If you use a Dremel or reasonable facimile thereof, please be very cautious!!

Place the razor flat on a peice of wood, and make sure the rotation of the tip is in such a way that if it catches and "rolls off" the razor, it goes from spine to edge direction. If you have your attatchement going in the other direction, edge to spine, the the tip will (not if) get caught on the edge and tear a nice chunk out of it, sending it to (hopefully) parts unknown.

 

[Joe Lerch]

If you use a Dremel or reasonable facimile thereof, please be very cautious!!

Place the razor flat on a peice of wood, and make sure the rotation of the tip is in such a way that if it catches and "rolls off" the razor, it goes from spine to edge direction. If you have your attatchement going in the other direction, edge to spine, the the tip will (not if) get caught on the edge and tear a nice chunk out of it, sending it to (hopefully) parts unknown.

I have found a safe way to hold a razor whenever I work on it. I use bar magnets on a metal surface and put the razor on the magnets so the edge is back from the edge of the magnets. So, the razor is held flat agaist the surface of the magnet with the edge and me protected, and I can work with two hands.

 

[AFDavis11]

If you use a Dremel or reasonable facimile thereof, please be very cautious!!

Place the razor flat on a peice of wood, and make sure the rotation of the tip is in such a way that if it catches and "rolls off" the razor, it goes from spine to edge direction. If you have your attatchement going in the other direction, edge to spine, the the tip will (not if) get caught on the edge and tear a nice chunk out of it, sending it to (hopefully) parts unknown.

Laz,

You got a video camera in my living room or what?????