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Starting over with new gear

This journal covers my journey rediscovering wet shaving and learning to shave my head. This includes getting new tools and matching them with soaps, blades etc. Also learning new techniques and methods for shaving the head.

I used to trim my head with a Wahl Balding Clipper to manage the bald spot. This was no longer enough. So a couple of months ago I decided to start shaving the dome. And have been doing so with a PAL Injecto-Matic Deluxe. For my face I used Gillette Rocket/Slim. As for brushes i used a cheap horse hair brush, RazoRock BC Silvertip Plissoft and Yaqi Butterscotch Tuxedo. For soap i used almost exclusively Haslinger Schafmilch (tallow).

Mediocracy had become norm. The shaves where at best just good enough. I did not enjoy the ritual anymore. During christmas I made up my mind to change this and formulated a simple plan.

Goals: Elevate the experience and get good results.
Method: Get good hardware and software. Learn how to head shave properly.

First, what is it with my current razors that's not good enough. Using vintage has it's drawbacks. The razors are often pressed sheet metal & plated which means they are susceptible to damage. The tolerances are not good in a world where 0,1mm can make a big difference. Mechanics and crimping makes the nooks and crannies inaccessible and thus hard to clean. Lack of customizability makes it hard to get the razor just right for my needs.

The solution seems clear; go modern. The criteria for new razors is as follows: Solid metal, no plating, no mechanics, tight tolerances, customizable base plate aggressiveness and guard type, not too expensive.

Second, better brushes. I enjoy natural bristles more. Solution, get a badger and horse brush of better quality.

Third, soap. As mentioned earlier I use Haslinger Schafmilch. The quality of lather is good but it has a cheap soap bar scent. They also transitioned away from tallow. Solution, try soap bases that are widely respected by the community and find out what scents I like.

Fourth, get better att head shaving. Watching a lot of different videos on the subject and trying different methods and techniques.

Fifth, everything else. Need a better lather bowl. Try out a spray bottle to apply water to skin & lather. Get pre shave soap. Try different perfumes. etc.
 
For face shaving I chose the Yates 921-H. More precisely the BYOR in stainless with a scalloped H-plate, 3.25" handle & stonewashed finish. This razor seems to fit all criteria without being too expensive. Feels good to support a small family company that makes great products. Will post when it arrives. Ordered on Dec 19 '23.

For the dome I got a Hawk V3, standard base plate & bulldog handle. These costs $100+ in Europe. Found one in very good condition on the second hand market for ~$60. Ordered on Dec 22 '23.

In the future I'll get a Schick Injector E1-3 for travel. They work well for both head & face and are light, compact, cheap and cleans more easily than my old PAL Injecto-Matic Deluxe.

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The first brush I ordered is an artisan two band badger with emerald green stabilized maple burl handle. Bought it from Mr. Aslan's Etsy store named SkabanShavingBrushes. Ordered on Dec 29 '23.

The second brush is a Zenith 506N XS with extra soft horse hair from Your Shaving. Ordered on Jan 4 '24.

The pictures are from the stores. Will post new ones when they arrive.

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When it comes to soap, priorities are performance and scent. Presentation is a plus. Post-shave is not important since I use other products for that.

Bought some well regarded artisan soaps to try out. Not a scent guy. Please bear with my first fumbling steps trying to describe scents.

Stirling - Sandpiper
Scent notes: Top notes of Cardamom, middle notes of Bergamot, Cedar, and Lavender, and base notes of Vetiver and Caraway.
Good performance, easy to lather. The scent is pleasant to my nose. Clean & calming cologne. Per dollar this is the best of all three. Understated no nonsense packaging.

Barrister and Mann - Bay Rum
Scent notes: Black strap rum with West Indie bay, sweet orange, cinnamon, and benzoin.
Also good performance and easy to lather. Scent wise it's spicy, reminds me of christmas. Maybe because of the cinnamon and sweet orange. Scent wise very original and interesting. To me this has the best presentation.

Ariana & Evans - Peach & Cognac (Kaizen)
Scent notes: Bergamot Lemon, 2 Peach notes, Orange Blossom, Cognac, Tobacco Absolute, Mimosa, Leather, Vanilla, Dried Fruits, Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Himalayan Cedar.
Slight edge in performance to the two others. Lather is very shiny and takes a bit more water. Very strong scent. The peach is dominant, think i can pick out the cognac. Like the smell but not something i would use before going out. You can smell the soap hours after shaving unless cleaning your face with soap. Need to be careful not have it clash with other scents. Psychedelic packaging, fits the scent.

All three are very good performers and the scents are nice. Need to find soap samples. Buying a whole tub just to try the scent is not viable from an economic standpoint.

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Welcome...it sounds like you've got yourself pretty much figured out as to gear etc and wanting to enjoy the shave again. Congrats. As to soaps and wanting to try samples...Areffa soaps from Ukraine are (to me) excellent shaving soaps and she offers smaller versions and samples as well.
 
Welcome to the journal section!! I look forward to following your journey!
Thank you, sir!

Thank you for sharing your journal with us. Hoping your new toys are conduits to more enjoyable shaves.
Thank you, sir!

Welcome...it sounds like you've got yourself pretty much figured out as to gear etc and wanting to enjoy the shave again. Congrats. As to soaps and wanting to try samples...Areffa soaps from Ukraine are (to me) excellent shaving soaps and she offers smaller versions and samples as well.
Thank you, sir! Will definitely order some of those 15 g samples in the future.
 
Compiled soaps that I want to try or use as reference when learning more.

Try:
Barrister and Mann - Leviathan
Barrister and Mann - Seville
Ariana & Evans - Cathedral
Ariana & Evans - Khalifa
Areffa - Tarot
Areffa - Smokey Midday
Areffa - The Blackest Night
Areffa - Total Black
Areffa - Time Dragon
Martin de Candre - Fougère
Saponificio Varesino
La Savonnière du Moulin

Reference/Standard Candle:
Tabac bar
Proraso tub
Arko tub
Cella brick

Mitchell's Wool Fat (Tallow)

Got Arko tub, Cella brick, Feather ProGuard & Professional Super on a sale. Good for reference in the future. 💸

If you are not a "scent guy", give Stirling Sheep or MdC Nature a go. And thank me later ;-)
Thank you for the tips. Will check out Stirling Sheep & MdC Nature.

If you want to support Swedish artisan shave soap makers you might want to look at Kali Flower Organics. I have heard good things about them.
Thank you. Will check them out.
 
Have a modest stock of blades. My DE blade of choice is Polsilver. Since they are out of production I bought a 250 pack of Wizamet this time. As of SE AC blades I have a single pack of Feather Professional. Professional Super & ProGuard are in the mail. Feather Professional works well in the Hawk V3, a smidge rough on the neck. While researching a more economical alternative I saw many praise the Schick Proline P-30 for it's sharp yet smooth qualities. Found a pack of 300 on eBay from Japan. A lot cheaper than the Feathers. 300/$120 incl. shipping, VAT and customs fee comes to 40 cents a blade. Ordered on 5 Jan '24.

The current lather bowl is just something I found at a thrift store. The bottom is too narrow, the sides too high and ridges too shallow. Before that I used a big mug. Found out that Captain's Choice makes a copper version of their ceramic lather bowls nowadays. Perfect, always loved their design. No more ceramics that break. Ordered on 23 Dec '23.

Watching YouTube videos I noticed that some content creators whose preferences align with mine use a spray bottle for wetting their face & lather. The more I thought about it the more it made sense. Bought a pack of two from Amazon to try out. Happy with the result so far. Adding water to lather by spraying is easier and more forgiving. Not bad for such a small investment.

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250 Wizamet blades. Arko tub & Cella brick. Feather Professional Super & ProGuard. A new badger brush from Skaban. Arrived yesterday.

Tried the badger & Arko soap the same day it arrived for a face shave with my Hawk V3. Here are some first impression. I'll do a review in a couple of months or so.

Arko has a artificial lemony fresh smell. Some has described it as urinal deodorizer. To be fair it is not far off, a better version of it though. Arko lathered up so well after blooming it for a bit. Didn't push the water content this time. Both cushin and glide was ok.

The brush came in a box with a care manual, small handwritten note adressed to me and a jute storage bag. The knot is dense. Has a bit of scritch and a good back bone. 3 or 4 hairs came of while using it. The handle is stabilized maple curl and the shape fits my hand well.

The Cella brick smells exactly like marzipan to me. Much softer than expected. Excited to try it later.

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Three more packages today.

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Zenith 506N XS extra soft (hair from mane) horse hair brush. Planning to use this brush for a head shave today to test the knot. Love how the handle sits in your hand.

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Captain's Choice Bowl in copper. Heavy, 10 gauge. Ordered the standard but got heavy. Not complaining since i wanted the heavy but chose to save $10.

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Tabac Original & KaliFlower Tjära (pine tar scent). Will try Tabac tonight for the head shave. Love the scent of the pine tar soap.
 

blethenstrom

Born to häckla
Three more packages today.

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Zenith 506N XS extra soft (hair from mane) horse hair brush. Planning to use this brush for a head shave today to test the knot. Love how the handle sits in your hand.

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Captain's Choice Bowl in copper. Heavy, 10 gauge. Ordered the standard but got heavy. Not complaining since i wanted the heavy but chose to save $10.

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Tabac Original & KaliFlower Tjära (pine tar scent). Will try Tabac tonight for the head shave. Love the scent of the pine tar soap.
There are several here on B&B that like the Kali Flower Tjära. It is a very intriguing scent. I have some pine tar bath soap, but my dear wife does not care for it since it smells like you just been at a bonfire.
 
New stuff: OC baseplate for the Hawk V3, blade bank, A&E Cathedral & Cube 2.0 (scentless).

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Tried a few more soaps. Cella brick lathers easily. Lather is thick enough. It has very good slickness. The residual slickness is not as good. Indifferent to the sweet almond scent. Kali Flower - Tjära has good performance. I enjoy the scent, definitely not for everyone though. Tabac was a nice surprise. Was worried about the scent, but I like it. The performance is good.

Later tried the PAA Cube 2.0 as pre shave before Tabac. First washed my face with it and rinsed. Then rubbed some on my wet face. Works well conditioning the skin and hair. But also elevated the soaps properties making it more dense and slicker.

Prefer the Schick Proline P30 blades over the Feather Professional. The proline is smoother and does not irritate the skin on my neck where I'm more sensitive. Tried the OC baseplate the other day on both head and face. The shave was closer than the standard baseplate but left the skin irritated. It cut open a mole that the regular plate just goes over. The head shave with OC was brutal and bloody. Need to work on my dome shaving technique before trying that again.

My Yates 921 BYOR has moved from queue and is now being sand blasted. Hopefully it will arrive soon.
 
Cleaned the threads with isopropyl alcohol and applied Molykote DX grease.

Razor: Yates 921-H
Blade: Wizamet Super Iridium
Preshave: PAA Cube 2.0
Soap: Stirling Sandpiper
Brush: Two band badger
Hair growth: 2 days

Did a head and face shave. Two passes and touch up.

The second pass is the real test. No DE razor I've tried shaved the scalp comfortably ATG. Always got irritation and small cuts even with mild DE razors. Attributed this to blade shatter due to bad tolerances and head design not clamping the blade well enough. Exclusively used SE razors like Schick, PAL and lately Hawk V3 on my head. SE blades solves shattering simply by being thicker and more rigid. Had no way to test this hypothesis until today. The 921 should at least partly fix this problem if I am right.

First pass WTG is comfortable. Minimal blade feel and effective. Good audible feedback. The stonewashed finish gives some traction for soapy fingers. The finish also results in a small amount of friction when shaving.

Second pass ATG went fine. All the moles made it. Applied alum to find out more. The face was trouble free. Some burn over the ears. Promising first shave.
 
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