Spyderco Bench Stone set!

[JPDyson]

I settled on a set of stones - the Spyderco Bench Stone set (Medium, Fine, Ultra Fine). I figured that they would be great to learn on but wouldn't disappoint me when I got better. The set seems to cover everything north of bevel setting, for which I'd probably get a DMT D8E anyway (that's the 1200, right?). I'm wondering why it doesn't get recommended more. It's a little more pricey than the Norton Combo + a C12k finisher, but you can hone dry, no lapping, and super simple cleanup.

I've got a couple of razors that won't so much as pop an arm hair right now. I want to see what these babies can do...

 

[azmark]

I used the Spyderco set for a long time and was never disappointed.Try water on them, it doesn't do anything for the process but helps to see water move and know if you're raising the spine. You can use the F for touch ups too. And don't bother lapping them, it does nothing but ruin many hours of your day.

The DMT8E is the 1200 but in 8x3. "6" would be the 6x2.

 

[professorchaos]

I used the Spyderco set for a long time and was never disappointed.Try water on them, it doesn't do anything for the process but helps to see water move and know if you're raising the spine. You can use the F for touch ups too. And don't bother lapping them, it does nothing but ruin many hours of your day.

The DMT8E is the 1200 but in 8x3. "6" would be the 6x2.

Watching how the edge interacts with the water or slurry is an absolutely critical part of how I evaluate an edge's progress.

Try a few squirts of .25 diamond spray on the UF. Don't let it get dry, add water to keep the hone wet and the diamond in play. *




* Not my idea. A member, I can't remember who, told me about this after Robert Williams mentioned it in a conversation. I've found it removes metal very quickly and creates a very sharp edge. I've not enjoyed shaving off that edge. Typically, it needs a little more work. A few laps on a pasted paddle really dials it in.

 

[azmark]

Watching how the edge interacts with the water or slurry is an absolutely critical part of how I evaluate an edge's progress.

Try a few squirts of .25 diamond spray on the UF. Don't let it get dry, add water to keep the hone wet and the diamond in play. *




* Not my idea. A member, I can't remember who, told me about this after Robert Williams mentioned it in a conversation. I've found it removes metal very quickly and creates a very sharp edge. I've not enjoyed shaving off that edge. Typically, it needs a little more work. A few laps on a pasted paddle really dials it in.

I can't handle .25

 

[professorchaos]

I can't handle .25

You'd be surprised, the edge isn't is not similar to the edge .25 paste produces. You could use .5 ... I use the technique on edges which won't cooperate. Gets them nearly shaving sharp really fast. One of these days I'll try CrOx to finish one of these edges.

 

[wdwrx]

In addition to using water as Azmark pointed out, I have great success with mine going to shaving lather after the water. (Finally found a use for my urinal deodorant.. umm.. I mean Williams soap) The foam seems to keep the blade even lighter on the stone, and the slickness I think helps to reduce the abrasion. I've got a couple of razors I've gotten to DE sharpness with my Spyderco UF. FWIW, i never use mine dry.

As for lapping, the common wisdom is to not, but upon closer inspection of mine, they were anything but flat and true.

My F and UF had been lapped before I got them second hand, but the M wasn't. Lapping it pretty much wore out my no-name DMT before I got it flat. It also completely changed the abrasive texture of the stone. It's lost much of its sense of abrasion, and now seems to function like my F. And it's still not flat.

Enjoy your set, I think they're great hones.

 

[JPDyson]

In addition to using water as Azmark pointed out, I have great success with mine going to shaving lather after the water. (Finally found a use for my urinal deodorant.. umm.. I mean Williams soap) The foam seems to keep the blade even lighter on the stone, and the slickness I think helps to reduce the abrasion. I've got a couple of razors I've gotten to DE sharpness with my Spyderco UF. FWIW, i never use mine dry.

As for lapping, the common wisdom is to not, but upon closer inspection of mine, they were anything but flat and true.

My F and UF had been lapped before I got them second hand, but the M wasn't. Lapping it pretty much wore out my no-name DMT before I got it flat. It also completely changed the abrasive texture of the stone. It's lost much of its sense of abrasion, and now seems to function like my F. And it's still not flat.

Enjoy your set, I think they're great hones.

I have read that, should your stones become un-flat, that you're supposed to contact Spyderco for replacement. I've also read that lapping changes the character of the stone. I've contacted Spyderco for the "official word" on this and await their response anxiously. However, the literature claims that the F and UF will exhibit virtually zero wear.

 

[wdwrx]

I don't think they became unflat... It looks to me like they were made that way. My guess is that they'll tell you about their "tolerances", and how the hones probably meet them, though I could be wrong.

As for changing the texture, I will vouch for that. I think I wrecked my M, (and my $40 Ez-Lap.) I couldn't tell the difference from the lapped side to the un-lapped side on either the F or UF, other than to hold them up to the ruler though.

The wear, or lack there of, is a real thing. They just don't wear out. For that reason I've taken to using them for most of my sharpening (chisels and plane blades and kitchen knives) that I would never do on my other stones. Edit: Let me clarify that: I do reserve my UF for my razors, and use the M and F for the other things

 

[azmark]

I have read that, should your stones become un-flat, that you're supposed to contact Spyderco for replacement. I've also read that lapping changes the character of the stone. I've contacted Spyderco for the "official word" on this and await their response anxiously. However, the literature claims that the F and UF will exhibit virtually zero wear.

That's been repeated here plenty of times and folks still lap....YMMV of course.

 

[JPDyson]

That's been repeated here plenty of times and folks still lap....YMMV of course.

These things do have two sides...

 

[Joe Edson]

Interesting. What is the grit ratings on the medium, fine, and ultra-fine?

Is it similar to a 4000, 8000, 12000?

 

[azmark]

Interesting. What is the grit ratings on the medium, fine, and ultra-fine?

Is it similar to a 4000, 8000, 12000?

Give or take but I was told the UF is in the 15k range.

 

[Joe Edson]

Give or take but I was told the UF is in the 15k range.

Man, I might have to consider something like this before trying my coti directly from my bevel setter. I think these may be easier to learn on. No lapping required....hmm throw in a DMT 1200 and this would make a good set me thinks. Probably might need the DMT 600 as well for some of the razors I picked up off the bay. Very interesting indeed.

Edit: Actually I could probably just get the medium and fine and finish on my coti with water. That way I don't have to deal with the various slurry issues that could arise on the coti from inexperience.

 

[JPDyson]

I think if you have a D8E you'd be set from bevel setting up to finishing. Might throw in a pasted strop between the UF and plain leather.

 

[wdwrx]

I keep going back to my coti after the UF with exactly 10 strokes on shaving lather. It lends all the qualities to the edge that a coti does, with all the keenness I couldn't achieve on my coti. Makes for some very nice edges.

 

[danjared]

Wait, Josh, I thought you sold your Spyderco set? Or did you buy another?

 

[JPDyson]

Wait, Josh, I thought you sold your Spyderco set? Or did you buy another?

I sold them off back when I flipped out and sold everything. I bought another set.

 

[jkh]

Watching how the edge interacts with the water or slurry is an absolutely critical part of how I evaluate an edge's progress.

Try a few squirts of .25 diamond spray on the UF. Don't let it get dry, add water to keep the hone wet and the diamond in play. *




* Not my idea. A member, I can't remember who, told me about this after Robert Williams mentioned it in a conversation. I've found it removes metal very quickly and creates a very sharp edge. I've not enjoyed shaving off that edge. Typically, it needs a little more work. A few laps on a pasted paddle really dials it in.

I've been using .5 diamond spray/water on a Chinese 12k after setting a bevel on a DMT 1.2k with great success. Holy cow does it cut fast. There is a really good thread on this, started by Robert Williams, over at WetShavingWorld. Robert recommends this method using a Spyderco UF.

EDIT: I finish on CrOx after the .5 diamond spray

 

[professorchaos]

I've been using .5 diamond spray/water on a Chinese 12k after setting a bevel on a DMT 1.2k with great success. Holy cow does it cut fast. There is a really good thread on this, started by Robert Williams, over at WetShavingWorld. Robert recommends this method using a Spyderco UF.

EDIT: I finish on CrOx after the .5 diamond spray

Thanks Jeremy, I'll have to give it a good read!!

 

[Joe Edson]

I've been using .5 diamond spray/water on a Chinese 12k after setting a bevel on a DMT 1.2k with great success. Holy cow does it cut fast. There is a really good thread on this, started by Robert Williams, over at WetShavingWorld. Robert recommends this method using a Spyderco UF.

EDIT: I finish on CrOx after the .5 diamond spray

So you just spray the diamond spray on your chinese 12K? Do you then go straight to water on the chinese 12K or just to the CrOx?