Sotiris' straight razor journal

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #54 (#14): I shaved very late yesterday and it was quite uneventful to report it. I used the RA 6/8 RP, Semogue 1460 and Officina Artigiana soap. The latter was nice but nothing really remarkable.


SR Shave #55 (#15):

• Pre-shave: Hot water and glycerin soap
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8 round point
• Brush: Simpsons Chubby 1 super
• Soap: MWF
• ASL: DR Harris Windsor

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG, 3rd ATG
• Result: Close, but not the closest possible shave since my stubble was 18hrs long. Very comfortable.

Notes:

Stropping: 40 laps on latigo and 50 on English bridle.

I felt like using a badger brush today. It was nice but I like my boars better. Back to storage once it dries out. The lather was great.

I decided to just wash my face today and assess if the skin food I was using the last few days, was adding anything to the shave. It seems it does. There was no tugging at all and the razor was gliding easily, but I kept thinking that it was even more easy before.

The edge felt very good again. After the shave, it passed the HHT very easily all along the blade with the minimun distance being more than 1.5 cm. I guess it is good to go for tomorrow.

Happy shaves everyone and have a nice day!

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #56 (#16):

• Pre-shave: Hot water and soap
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8 round point
• Brush: Simpsons Chubby 1 super
• Soap: Speick
• ASL: Speick

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG, 3rd ATG
• Result: Nice!

Notes:

Stropping: 40 laps on latigo and 50 on English bridle.

Contrary to what I wrote yesterday, I decided use the Chubby again and check how it behaves with a shaving stick. It is a greedy brush, though it is still in the break-in period with approximately 10 uses. In the end, it felt nice, it produced a good lather and the result is a very close shave, so this was a success.

It is also remarkable, how good prep a stick is. No extra products used except for a face wash with a bar of soap.

The edge still keeps its sharpness. One of these days I might switch to the other one and see the difference.

Technique-wise, I need to pay more attention to the chin area.

Happy shaves everyone and enjoy your Tuesday!

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #57 (#17):

• Pre-shave: Hot water and soap
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8 round point
• Brush: Simpsons Chubby 1 best
• Soap: MWF
• ASL: Epsilon Blue

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG, 3rd ATG
• Result: Average

Notes:

Stropping: 40 laps on latigo and 50 on English bridle (before the shave).

I switched to the CH1 best which usually works well with the Fat. However, today the lather was off. I tried to remedy it, but it would have been better if I restarted. The result was to experience some tugging ATG. Perhaps the prep wasn't that good either. Luckily there was no irritation. Anyways, better luck tomorrow.

I stropped the razor after the shave on my hanging strop. Remarks: I like the feedback of the strop better, my technique has improved, the razor passes the HHT very easily again. As such, once again it was me and not the razor.

Happy shaves everyone and have a nice Wednesday!

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #58 (#18):

• Pre-shave: Hot water and soap
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8 round point
• Brush: Ω 10098
• Soap: Saponificio Varesino Dolomiti
• ASL: Furbo Blu

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG, 3rd ATG
• Result: Great

Notes:

Stropping: 20 laps on canvas and 50 on leather (hanging strop).

I shaved earlier today, but didn't manage to write here at the time. The shave was really good. There was some hesitation from the razor but the result was super close. Even now, 12hrs later most of my face is still BBS.

After the post-shave stropping session, I noticed that there was an area in the center where the edge looked "damaged". That was exactly where I've mentioned earlier that the bevel is narrower. HHT verified that the razor couldn't cut there. As such I spent quite a bit of time rehoning.

I think this happened during the shave and not while stropping as I was extra careful. Anyways, even going to the 3k wasn't enough, so the bevel was reset for the second time and the whole progression was followed. I also appied some Chromox on one of the beds of my paddle and did 10 laps. Right now the HHT distance is above 2.5cm!

My plan is to switch to the Spaniard now, see how many good shaves I can get and compare.

Cheers everyone!

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #59 (#3):

• Pre-shave: Hot water and soap
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8 Spanish point
• Brush: Ω 10098
• Soap: Saponificio Varesino Dolomiti
• ASL: Furbo Blu

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG, 3rd ATG
• Result: Close, not perfect. Quite comfortable.

Notes:

Stropping: I don't remember what I did the last time I used the Spanish point. I did 10 on canvas and 20 on leather before the shave.

Same setup except for the razor. Very good lather once more. The 98 is massive for face lathering, but it is super soft on the face and along with the posh soap give a sense of luxury in the shave.

I didn't have much stubble to cut today and I didn't push my luck. I am even thinking of switching back to two passes.

Happy shaves and enjoy your Friday!

 

[JoWolf]

SR Shave #59 (#3):

• Pre-shave: Hot water and soap
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8 Spanish point
• Brush: Ω 10098
• Soap: Saponificio Varesino Dolomiti
• ASL: Furbo Blu

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd XTG, 3rd ATG
• Result: Close, not perfect. Quite comfortable.

Notes:

Stropping: I don't remember what I did the last time I used the Spanish point. I did 10 on canvas and 20 on leather before the shave.

Same setup except for the razor. Very good lather once more. The 98 is massive for face lathering, but it is super soft on the face and along with the posh soap give a sense of luxury in the shave.

I didn't have much stubble to cut today and I didn't push my luck. I am even thinking of switching back to two passes.

Happy shaves and enjoy your Friday!

luxury in the shave.

There are many luxuries available in a shave. Brushes and soaps are the easiest to obtain and control. They are also the most important. If your shave starts with a soap, lather or a brush of dubious performance. They can only mess up the possibility of a great shave. If a shave does not start with great comfort and luxury in lathering........ What happens next? I’m glad you start your shave with luxury. It makes a shave a wonderful experience and that is our goal.

 

[Sotiris_A]

There are many luxuries available in a shave. Brushes and soaps are the easiest to obtain and control. They are also the most important. If your shave starts with a soap, lather or a brush of dubious performance. They can only mess up the possibility of a great shave. If a shave does not start with great comfort and luxury in lathering........ What happens next? I’m glad you start your shave with luxury. It makes a shave a wonderful experience and that is our goal.

Indeed! I love the feeling of my boars on the face and I prefer them, despite using up more soap than a synthetic. The lather isn't better, but I enter a state of mind that helps improve and enjoy the shave. Some days it's a small, scrubby one, others a chunky one. And then a favorite soap, getting a good lather going...

... and then you find yourself dreaming about tomorrow's setup. 8 more hours to go.

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #60 (#4):

• Pre-shave: Shower and face wash
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8 Spanish point
• Brush: Semogue 1800
• Soap: Tabac
• Scuttle: SWK xl
• ASL: Pitralon Classic

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd ATG and minor touch-ups. Right-hand shave only!
• Result: Very close, some spots need improvement. Super comfortable.

Notes:

Stropping: 30 laps on canvas and 60 on leather.

Some days I feel like changing everything. New prep, new lathering method, new brush, new soap and more importantly new technique.

I've always felt a bit awkward with the left hand ATG. So I've been seriously thinking to switch to dominant hand completely. I've already incorporated some strokes ATG. Yesterday I watched this:

dominant hand shaving only and it shows an excellent stroke going on the lower neck horizontally. My growth there is the same and today I put it all in practice. 2 passes and right hand. It worked great! I need to work on some angles but that's what excites me about wet shaving, working on new techniques.

The scuttle worked well. The edge felt great. Happy days!

Happy shaves and have a lovely weekend!

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #61 (#5):

• Pre-shave: Hot water and soap
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8 Spanish point
• Brush: Semogue 1800
• Soap: La Toja
• Scuttle: SWK xl
• ASL: Epsilon Blue

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd ATG and minor touch-ups. Right-hand shave only.
• Result: Very close and comfortable. A couple of missed spots and one nick.

Notes:

Stropping: 30 laps on canvas and 60 on leather.

A bit of an Iberian theme today.

La Toja, when bowl lathered doesn't irritate my face. It works quite well and I can improve the lather even further once I grate it and put it in a container. The only issue is that it leaves my skin a bit tight and I might need some moisturizer later in the day.

My current prep works quite well. I wash my face with a bar of olive oil soap and do not rinse until before applying the lather on the face. The 2' spent on stropping and 2-3' spent on lathering, at least partially, the soap in the scuttle are enough to soften the stubble. I then spend a minute or two lathering the soap on the face.

I missed a couple of spots and managed to nick myself near the right corner of the lip. The new technique works very well however and I am optimistic that once the new strokes become part of the routine, it will all come together nicely.

Happy shaves and enjoy your Sunday!

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #62 (#6):

• Pre-shave: Hot water and soap
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8 Spanish point
• Brush: Simpsons Duke 3 best
• Soap: La Toja
• Scuttle: SWK xl
• ASL: Epsilon Blue

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd ATG and minor touch-ups. Right-hand shave only.
• Result: Very close and comfortable. A couple of nicks, but otherwise no irritation.

Notes:

Stropping: 15 laps on canvas and 60 on leather.

I've been reading and watching videos on stropping as I think it is the area that I could improve a lot. I found some interesting instructions for beginners that I want to put to test. They involve a hanging strop similar to the one I own and using x-strokes. The author, who is an experienced honer and a member in a German forum, suggests using only the leather side, applying some pressure (not much) and doing 12 strokes only. That was enough to keep him going for a year! Members in that forum that put it to test, claim to reach 3 months of shaves without a retouch.

As such, I did my 12 strokes after the shave and the razor passes the HHT easily. I will probably do 12 more before the shave tomorrow and see how it goes.

Since I am using the scuttle, I brought the Duke 3 out of its box. I find it a bit prickly and it causes me brush burn if I face lather with it. I got some nice lather today with this combination, but I keep thinking that La Toja is a good but not exceptional soap. By the way, I grated it so it is now easier to use with a bowl.

The razor was cruising through my stubble today. Not that there was much to cut after yesterday. The last few days, my shaves have been very, very good.

Happy shaves and best wishes for the new week!

 

[Sotiris_A]

SR Shave #63 (#7):

• Pre-shave: Shower and face wash
• Razor: Ralf Aust 6/8 Spanish point
• Brush: Omega 80097
• Soap: Tabac
• Scuttle: SWK xl
• ASL: Pitralon Classic
• ASB: Noxzema Action plus 7 in 1

• Method: 1st pass WTG, 2nd ATG. Right-hand shave only.
• Result: Very close and comfortable. Some dryness experienced after the shave and I applied a bit of moisturizer.

Notes:

Stropping: 20 x-strokes on leather, 8 of them right before today's shave.

Putting the theory to the test, I only stropped 20 times and skipped any post-shave stropping. The edge felt very comfortable. The combination of having a shower and then shaving left my face a bit too dry and I added some moisturizer/balm in after the lotion was absorbed. Other than that, everything went well.

Happy shaves and have a great day!

 

[Rosseforp]

Putting the theory to the test, I only stropped 20 times and skipped any post-shave stropping.

I can't remember where I read it, maybe @Chan Eil Whiskers can chip in, there is a technique where fairly heavy pressure is applied during 5-6 laps, followed by lighter pressure on the last 5-6 laps.

 

[Sotiris_A]

I can't remember where I read it, maybe @Chan Eil Whiskers can chip in, there is a technique where fairly heavy pressure is applied during 5-6 laps, followed by lighter pressure on the last 5-6 laps.

The instructions I read and try follow are quite detailed. You place the strop at hip level (e.g. door handle) and pull with a "force" of 2kg. You then do x-strokes the same way that the B&B wiki suggests, too. Once the razor reaches the middle of the strop, it is expected to bend it 2-2.5cm causing the "force" to increase to 2.3-2.5kg. 12 such strokes are supposed to suffice. Don't you love the Germans with their precise instructions!

There is definitely some pressure, though nothing excessive. I also saw yesterday that Dovo suggests 10-15 strokes on leather and that Henkels used to suggest even less (8 if I remember well). That's quite a departure from what I've seen so far in the forums and I am willing to put it to the test, as it is something repeatable. I got a fishing scale and put it between my door handle and the strop to get as precise as I can the feel of the forces involved.

 

[Rosseforp]

Have you tried marking the edge with a Sharpie and seeing how much pressure it takes to remove it?

 

[Sotiris_A]

Have you tried marking the edge with a Sharpie and seeing how much pressure it takes to remove it?

I only used a Sharpie when setting the bevel to verify that it was formed, by doing a stroke on the stone. You probably suggest doing so while stropping, correct?

I'll give it a try and let you know. Do you think that something like the minimum pressure to remove such a mark this might be a good amount to use?

 

[JoWolf]

I only used a Sharpie when setting the bevel to verify that it was formed, by doing a stroke on the stone. You probably suggest doing so while stropping, correct?

I'll give it a try and let you know. Do you think that something like the minimum pressure to remove such a mark this might be a good amount to use?

Gentlemen no matter wether honing razors, sharpening kitchen knives, and stropping both. General consensus that I’ve read more than once. Always go as Light as possible. My problem has been too much pressure in all areas. With the stropping. I have strops set up for sitting, standing at the hip and vertical. I practice at all stations while trying to go slow down with lightest pressure possible. Balsa is supposed to be vertical with less weight than the blade. That would be hard to measure.

 

[Sotiris_A]

Gentlemen no matter wether honing razors, sharpening kitchen knives, and stropping both. General consensus that I’ve read more than once. Always go as Light as possible. My problem has been too much pressure in all areas. With the stropping. I have strops set up for sitting, standing at the hip and vertical. I practice at all stations while trying to go slow down with lightest pressure possible. Balsa is supposed to be vertical with less weight than the blade. That would be hard to measure.

I've seen that too, yet I've also seen experienced shavers mention the use of some pressure to ensure that the edge is engaged in the process. I was going as light as possible, especially with the paddle and did minimum 60 laps every time, yet my edges were becoming uncomfortable too early based on reported standards. I suspect that stropping was the major issue. Anyway, I already shaved 7 times with the current edge, so we'll know soon if I will exceed my typical limit.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I can't remember where I read it, maybe @Chan Eil Whiskers can chip in, there is a technique where fairly heavy pressure is applied during 5-6 laps, followed by lighter pressure on the last 5-6 laps.

I vaguely remember trying that, but can't say it worked well enough (for me) to continue (and I'm not using the straights now; not saying I never will use them again).

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[AimlessWanderer]

I'm no expert, as I'm just an occasional straight user, with far less experience than the rest of you. However, I strop slowly, with firm pressure on the spine for stability and control, and light pressure on the edge. Effectively, the spine is adding additional tension to the strop. I do less than 10 laps.

 

[Sotiris_A]

I'm no expert, as I'm just an occasional straight user, with far less experience than the rest of you. However, I strop slowly, with firm pressure on the spine for stability and control, and light pressure on the edge. Effectively, the spine is adding additional tension to the strop. I do less than 10 laps.

I think that's pretty much it.

Most people mention using the weight of the razor. Assuming that, we are talking about 50-80gr. The method I wrote above leads to around 300gr of "force" on the razor and specifically mentions never to lift the spine throughout the process. This means to me that most of the weight is distributed towards the spine.

I was reading the proposed method on coticule.be earlier. Again it is suggested that 20 strokes are enough, using "gentle pressure" enough to feel the friction and some speed (equivalent of 50-60 strokes per minute).